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fixie lockring wrench

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Cycling Equipment
Published
13 May 2004
Last activity
18 May 2004
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supabonbon
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  1. Hello,
    Which wrench do you use for the lockring for a fixed gear. Surly hub,
    DuraAce cog, Surly lockring.
    Thanks!

    /s

  2. supabonbon said:

    Hello,
    Which wrench do you use for the lockring for a fixed gear. Surly hub,
    DuraAce cog, Surly lockring.

    My favorite is our modified Hozan hook:

    http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/tools.html#lockring

    Sheldon "Sparks" Brown
    +---------------------------------------------+
    | Television: |
    | A medium. So called because it is |
    | neither rare nor well done. |
    | --Ernie Kovacs |
    +---------------------------------------------+
    Harris Cyclery, West Newton, Massachusetts
    Phone 617-244-9772 FAX 617-244-1041
    http://harriscyclery.com
    Hard-to-find parts shipped Worldwide
    http://captainbike.com http://sheldonbrown.com

  3. "Dictum sapienti sat est." - Terence
    On 13 May 2004 10:16:55 -0700, [email hidden] (supabonbon)

    Quoted message said:

    Which wrench do you use for the lockring for a fixed gear. Surly hub,
    DuraAce cog, Surly lockring.

    As long as the lockring has two opposing notches (most do, including
    the Dura-Ace one you list), Park's SPA-3 does a good job:

    http://www.businesscycles.com/trtool.htm

    -------------------------------
    John Dacey
    Business Cycles, Miami, Florida
    Since 1983
    Our catalogue of track equipment: online since 1996.
    http://www.businesscycles.com

  4. (supabonbon) said:

    Hello, Which wrench do you use for the lockring for a fixed
    gear. Surly hub, DuraAce cog, Surly lockring.

    My favorite is a pair of Channel Lock pliers, with a bit of the jaw
    ground away to make a "tooth" at the end of each jaw to engage the
    notches in the lockring. Works great for all sizes of lockrings,
    many sealed BBs, etc., and also works well as a Channel Lock pliers
    for other purposes.


  5. Quoted message said:

    My favorite is a pair of Channel Lock pliers, with a bit of the jaw
    ground away to make a "tooth" at the end of each jaw to engage the
    notches in the lockring.

    I would love to see a picture of this if you have time to post.
    Thanks,
    Blake

  6. B Paton said:
    Quoted message said:

    My favorite is a pair of Channel Lock pliers, with a bit of the jaw
    ground away to make a "tooth" at the end of each jaw to engage the
    notches in the lockring.

    I would love to see a picture of this if you have time to post.

    I'll see what I can do- it was dead easy, took about 10 minutes with
    a Dremel. Inspired by the VAR pliers-type lockring tool.

    Drop me an e-mail to remind me in case I forget. I'll post it to a
    Web site and post the URL. Now, where's the digital camera gotten
    to?

  7. Sheldon Brown <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

    Quoted message said:
    supabonbon said:

    Hello,
    Which wrench do you use for the lockring for a fixed gear. Surly hub,
    DuraAce cog, Surly lockring.

    My favorite is our modified Hozan hook:

    http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/tools.html#lockring

    Certainly off-topic, but looking at the Hozan hook reminds me: I have
    an old, old, (older than most readers of this newsgroup, I'll bet)
    10-speed which I still ride as a "around town" bike, and it has a
    round headset "nut" with 4 notches in it. It looks like it takes a
    small version of the Hozan hook (which I have, and it doesn't work)
    but I've never found the right tool. This "nut" sits above the
    adjustable cup and below the brake hanger.

    Anybody know if such a tool exits? I guess it must of, at one time.

    TIA.

    Tom Young

  8. supabonbon said:

    Hello,
    Which wrench do you use for the lockring for a fixed gear. Surly hub,
    DuraAce cog, Surly lockring.

    Forged Hozan #205.
    (Grind the inside curve to make the edge more squared).

    --
    Andrew Muzi
    www.yellowjersey.org
    Open every day since 1 April, 1971

  9. Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:
    supabonbon said:

    Which wrench do you use for the lockring for a fixed gear. Surly hub,
    DuraAce cog, Surly lockring.

    Quoted message said:

    Sheldon Brown <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

    Quoted message said:

    My favorite is our modified Hozan hook:
    http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/tools.html#lockring

    Tom Young said:

    Certainly off-topic, but looking at the Hozan hook reminds me: I have
    an old, old, (older than most readers of this newsgroup, I'll bet)
    10-speed which I still ride as a "around town" bike, and it has a
    round headset "nut" with 4 notches in it. It looks like it takes a
    small version of the Hozan hook (which I have, and it doesn't work)
    but I've never found the right tool. This "nut" sits above the
    adjustable cup and below the brake hanger.
    Anybody know if such a tool exits? I guess it must of, at one time.

    That is am interesting system, used on Japanese sport bikes
    in the seventies. The small three-notch lockring holds the
    bearing adjustment ( use the other end of the Hosan 205) The
    large locknut only holds the brake hanger.

    --
    Andrew Muzi
    www.yellowjersey.org
    Open every day since 1 April, 1971

  10. I opined:

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    My favorite is our modified Hozan hook:
    http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/tools.html#lockring

    Tom Young said:

    Certainly off-topic, but looking at the Hozan hook reminds me: I have
    an old, old, (older than most readers of this newsgroup, I'll bet)
    10-speed which I still ride as a "around town" bike, and it has a
    round headset "nut" with 4 notches in it. It looks like it takes a
    small version of the Hozan hook (which I have, and it doesn't work)
    but I've never found the right tool. This "nut" sits above the
    adjustable cup and below the brake hanger.
    Anybody know if such a tool exits? I guess it must of, at one time.



    Andy Muzi replied:

    Quoted message said:


    That is am interesting system, used on Japanese sport bikes in the
    seventies. The small three-notch lockring holds the bearing adjustment
    ( use the other end of the Hosan 205) The large locknut only holds the
    brake hanger.

    Tom said the Hozan didn't work for his, but my understanding is that's
    what the small end is for. I never found anything else it fit, anyway.

    However, sometimes it's necessary to take the Hozan tool to a grinding
    wheel, both in thickness and sometimes in the longitudinal dimension of
    the barb.

    Sheldon "How Do People Manage Without Bench Grinders?" Brown
    +---------------------------------------------------------------------+
    | It is amazing how much "mature wisdom" resembles being too tired. |
    | --Robert A. Heinlein |
    +---------------------------------------------------------------------+
    Harris Cyclery, West Newton, Massachusetts
    Phone 617-244-9772 FAX 617-244-1041
    http://harriscyclery.com
    Hard-to-find parts shipped Worldwide
    http://captainbike.com http://sheldonbrown.com

  11. (Sheldon Brown)

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    > My favorite is our modified Hozan hook:
    > http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/tools.html#lockring

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:
    Tom Young said:

    Certainly off-topic, but looking at the Hozan hook reminds me: I have
    an old, old, (older than most readers of this newsgroup, I'll bet)
    10-speed which I still ride as a "around town" bike, and it has a
    round headset "nut" with 4 notches in it. It looks like it takes a
    small version of the Hozan hook (which I have, and it doesn't work)
    but I've never found the right tool. This "nut" sits above the
    adjustable cup and below the brake hanger.
    Anybody know if such a tool exits? I guess it must of, at one time.

    Quoted message said:

    Andy Muzi replied:

    Quoted message said:

    That is am interesting system, used on Japanese sport bikes in the
    seventies. The small three-notch lockring holds the bearing
    adjustment ( use the other end of the Hosan 205) The large locknut
    only holds the brake hanger.

    Sheldon Brown said:

    Tom said the Hozan didn't work for his, but my understanding is that's
    what the small end is for. I never found anything else it fit, anyway.

    However, sometimes it's necessary to take the Hozan tool to a grinding
    wheel, both in thickness and sometimes in the longitudinal dimension of
    the barb.

    Indeed I did read too quickly and I think Sheldon's right.
    The nicely forged Hozan needs a little finish work to fit
    properly. On both ends.

    And I never saw one with _four_ notches either, always
    three. Hmm.
    --
    Andrew Muzi
    www.yellowjersey.org
    Open every day since 1 April, 1971

  12. i use one of these with the 6 of the 8 pins cut off. works like a
    charm. cheap too.

    http://www.biketoolsetc.com/index.cgi?id=393927582056&d=single&c=Tools&sc=Bottom%20Bracket&tc=Chainring%20Lockring%20Spanners&item_id=LF-11D3

    supabonbon said:

    Hello,
    Which wrench do you use for the lockring for a fixed gear. Surly hub,
    DuraAce cog, Surly lockring.
    Thanks!

    /s

  13. I guess I am coming in late on this one..

    Ok what I use is...

    I'm not too keen on modifying tools.. but I guess the industry rarely asks
    the frontline people about products.

    I use a weird older park bb lockring wrench which has a pivot so it kind of
    wraps around the lockring..

    On Miche hubs the lockring is pretty spiff since theres a Elite lockring
    tool that fits perfectly into the notches and I believe there is 3 or 4 of
    them..

    I would make alot of sense for the hub makers to start providing a lockring
    tool.. I am still baffled by the sovos how did they think were susposed to
    lock it down?

    And for that matter Sheldon if you are reading this any tips on preventing
    the sovos hubs from stripping out under torque?
    The only hubs (with the exception of Phil) I have found so far to not strip
    out under load (ie braking force) are the Miche.. I used mine for a brake
    for quite a while Dura ace and Campy I had people strip out.

    Polly

  14. A Muzi <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

    Quoted message said:

    (Sheldon Brown)

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    >> My favorite is our modified Hozan hook:
    >> http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/tools.html#lockring

    Tom Young said:
    Quoted message said:

    > Certainly off-topic, but looking at the Hozan hook reminds me: I have
    > an old, old, (older than most readers of this newsgroup, I'll bet)
    > 10-speed which I still ride as a "around town" bike, and it has a
    > round headset "nut" with 4 notches in it. It looks like it takes a
    > small version of the Hozan hook (which I have, and it doesn't work)
    > but I've never found the right tool. This "nut" sits above the
    > adjustable cup and below the brake hanger.
    > Anybody know if such a tool exits? I guess it must of, at one time.

    Andy Muzi replied:

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    That is am interesting system, used on Japanese sport bikes in the
    seventies. The small three-notch lockring holds the bearing
    adjustment ( use the other end of the Hosan 205) The large locknut
    only holds the brake hanger.

    Sheldon Brown said:

    Tom said the Hozan didn't work for his, but my understanding is that's
    what the small end is for. I never found anything else it fit, anyway.

    However, sometimes it's necessary to take the Hozan tool to a grinding
    wheel, both in thickness and sometimes in the longitudinal dimension of
    the barb.

    Indeed I did read too quickly and I think Sheldon's right.
    The nicely forged Hozan needs a little finish work to fit
    properly. On both ends.

    And I never saw one with _four_ notches either, always
    three. Hmm.

    Well, I see I messed up on a couple of things with my original post.
    Yes, there's 3 notches, not 4; I was going on (bad) memory there.
    Also, since the picture of the Hozan hook at Harris Cyclery only shows
    one end of the tool I said "I have one" but what I really have is the
    Sugino bottom bracket tool that has the hook on one end and a large
    "box end" style tool on the other end.

    In fact, scrolling down just a bit on the Harris Cyclery page I see
    the Park HCW-5 tool that looks to have exactly the correct 3-hook end
    on it that I need, though I'd guess you'd have to remove the top
    locknut and brake hanger to use it.

    Tom Young

  15. I said:
    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    >>>My favorite is our modified Hozan hook:
    >>>http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/tools.html#lockring

    Tom Young said:

    >>Certainly off-topic, but looking at the Hozan hook reminds me: I have
    >>an old, old, (older than most readers of this newsgroup, I'll bet)
    >>10-speed which I still ride as a "around town" bike, and it has a
    >>round headset "nut" with 4 notches in it. It looks like it takes a
    >>small version of the Hozan hook (which I have, and it doesn't work)
    >>but I've never found the right tool. This "nut" sits above the
    >>adjustable cup and below the brake hanger.
    >>Anybody know if such a tool exits? I guess it must of, at one time.

    Andy Muzi replied:

    The small three-notch lockring holds the bearing

    Quoted message said:

    >adjustment ( use the other end of the Hosan 205) The large locknut
    >only holds the brake hanger.



    I said:
    Quoted message said:


    Quoted message said:

    Tom said the Hozan didn't work for his, but my understanding is that's
    what the small end is for. I never found anything else it fit, anyway.

    However, sometimes it's necessary to take the Hozan tool to a grinding
    wheel, both in thickness and sometimes in the longitudinal dimension of
    the barb.



    Tom came back with:

    Quoted message said:

    Well, I see I messed up on a couple of things with my original post.
    Yes, there's 3 notches, not 4; I was going on (bad) memory there.
    Also, since the picture of the Hozan hook at Harris Cyclery only shows
    one end of the tool I said "I have one" but what I really have is the
    Sugino bottom bracket tool that has the hook on one end and a large
    "box end" style tool on the other end.

    In fact, scrolling down just a bit on the Harris Cyclery page I see
    the Park HCW-5 tool that looks to have exactly the correct 3-hook end
    on it that I need, though I'd guess you'd have to remove the top
    locknut and brake hanger to use it.

    Nope. That tool fits the same radius on both ends, and is too large for
    the headset application. The three-notch end fits _some_ old-style
    bottom bracket lockrings and is less liable to cause cosmetic damage to
    the lockring.

    I don't particularly recommend the HCW-5, mainly because it's thinner
    than the Hozan, so it's more painful for those of us with delicate hands
    to use.

    Sheldon "Insert Nickname Here" Brown
    +------------------------------------------------------------+
    | A touchstone to determine the actual worth of an |
    | "intellectual"--find out how he feels about astrology. |
    | --Robert A. Heinlein |
    +------------------------------------------------------------+
    Harris Cyclery, West Newton, Massachusetts
    Phone 617-244-9772 FAX 617-244-1041
    http://harriscyclery.com
    Hard-to-find parts shipped Worldwide
    http://captainbike.com http://sheldonbrown.com

  16. Polly said:

    And for that matter Sheldon if you are reading this any tips on preventing
    the sovos hubs from stripping out under torque?

    Use only high quality sprockets. I generally recommend Dura-Ace or E.A.I.

    There are a lot of cheapo sprockets out there which tend to have very
    much less thread engagement.

    I also advise against using the hub for major "braking." That's what
    the brake is for, and extreme resisting is harmful to your leg muscles
    as well.

    Sheldon "You Get What You Pay For" Brown
    +-------------------------------------------------+
    | To stay young requires unceasing cultivation |
    | of the ability to unlearn old falsehoods. |
    | --Robert A. Heinlein |
    +-------------------------------------------------+
    Harris Cyclery, West Newton, Massachusetts
    Phone 617-244-9772 FAX 617-244-1041
    http://harriscyclery.com
    Hard-to-find parts shipped Worldwide
    http://captainbike.com http://sheldonbrown.com

  17. Yes I agree with you Sheldon the rear hub shouldnt be used for braking but..
    alot of people do. I dont use the DA or EAI? not even sure where to get the
    EAI from.. I usually carry the Miche cogs.. what do you think about the
    quality of them versus the others or are they compareable..?
    Btw remember when I sold you (harris cyclery) a bunch of frames I've been
    very curious how you guys made out with them.. any of them break?

    Polly

    Quoted message said:

    Use only high quality sprockets. I generally recommend Dura-Ace or E.A.I.

    There are a lot of cheapo sprockets out there which tend to have very
    much less thread engagement.

    I also advise against using the hub for major "braking." That's what
    the brake is for, and extreme resisting is harmful to your leg muscles
    as well.

    Sheldon "You Get What You Pay For" Brown
    +-------------------------------------------------+
    | To stay young requires unceasing cultivation |
    | of the ability to unlearn old falsehoods. |
    | --Robert A. Heinlein |
    +-------------------------------------------------+
    Harris Cyclery, West Newton, Massachusetts
    Phone 617-244-9772 FAX 617-244-1041
    http://harriscyclery.com
    Hard-to-find parts shipped Worldwide
    http://captainbike.com http://sheldonbrown.com

  18. Polly-<< EAI? not even sure where to get the
    EAI from.. >><BR><BR>

    EuroAsia Imports

    Peter Chisholm
    Vecchio's Bicicletteria
    1833 Pearl St.
    Boulder, CO, 80302
    (303)440-3535
    http://www.vecchios.com
    "Ruote convenzionali costruite eccezionalmente bene"

  19. Polly said:


    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    And for that matter Sheldon if you are reading this any tips on preventing
    the sovos hubs from stripping out under torque?



    I replied:

    Quoted message said:


    Quoted message said:

    Use only high quality sprockets. I generally recommend Dura-Ace or E.A.I.

    Quoted message said:

    There are a lot of cheapo sprockets out there which tend to have very
    much less thread engagement.



    Benjamin Weiner asked:

    Quoted message said:


    Do you mean fewer threads, or less engagement due to
    threading being further from spec?

    I looked at some track cogs and most of them had about
    6-7mm of thread - several name brands and two without
    marking. One had only 4.5-5mm of thread, this was an
    unbranded one which is possibly stamped - it has a sort
    of rounded inner diameter on the outer side before the
    threading begins.

    Mainly the former. Out of spec could go either direction.

    See the chart at:

    http://sheldonbrown.com/chainline

    which lists measurements of every brand of fixed sprocket I could find.

    Sheldon "Thicker Is Better" Brown
    +-----------------------------------------------------------------+
    | When anyone asks me how I can best describe my experience |
    | in nearly 40 years at sea, I merely say, "uneventful." |
    | Of course, there have been many gales and storms and fog |
    | and the like. But in all my experience, I have never been |
    | in any accident of any sort worth speaking about. I have |
    | never seen but one vessel in distress in all my years at sea. |
    | I never saw a wreck and never have been wrecked, nor was I |
    | ever in any predicament that threatened to end in disaster |
    | of any sort. --E. J. Smith, Captain, RMS Titanic |
    +-----------------------------------------------------------------+
    Harris Cyclery, West Newton, Massachusetts
    Phone 617-244-9772 FAX 617-244-1041
    http://harriscyclery.com
    Hard-to-find parts shipped Worldwide
    http://captainbike.com http://sheldonbrown.com

  20. Sheldon Brown said:

    Polly wrote:

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    And for that matter Sheldon if you are reading this any tips on preventing
    the sovos hubs from stripping out under torque?

    Quoted message said:

    Use only high quality sprockets. I generally recommend Dura-Ace or E.A.I.

    Quoted message said:

    There are a lot of cheapo sprockets out there which tend to have very
    much less thread engagement.

    Do you mean fewer threads, or less engagement due to
    threading being further from spec?

    I looked at some track cogs and most of them had about
    6-7mm of thread - several name brands and two without
    marking. One had only 4.5-5mm of thread, this was an
    unbranded one which is possibly stamped - it has a sort
    of rounded inner diameter on the outer side before the
    threading begins.

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