Fixie gear ratio poll

Try www.bikeman.com - I got my dura-ace cog for $20 shipped or so, IIRC.
I did the conversion on my campus bike, and it's way fun - go for it!

Where will you be riding? How hilly? Like Sheldon says, higher gears are
more fun as long as you can still hammer up the steepest hill you need to
climb. You might consider a flip-flop hub with two cogs of different sizes.
Even the 'cassette' side can be used for a track cog if you prefer that. Use
the higher one for normal tooling and switch to the lower one in a real
emergency.

I use 42-15; my semi-pro racing friend uses 42-18 I think, and campus is
essentially flat.

song

Michael Press said:

I tried the "ride around the neighborhood in a single gear" trick and
settled on a 39-21t - far too big for downhills

Your use of "big", I presume, means low -- big rear sprocket.

Quoted message said:

but big enough to get
me up hills and comfortable on flats. The 19 seemed a bit harder than
I'm used to; I prefer high-cadence, low gears on hills. I ride 53-39
with 12-27 on my double road bike.

I think that gear is way too low for a fixed gear bike. If you really do
not want to climb in a lower cadence, out of the saddle, then maybe this
is not a good idea.

I ride a 42/17 at the moment, and have stayed around that, or a bit
higher, most of the time for many years. This allows me to get up most
hills, though a long one will be a challenge, and also allows me to get
down hills with minimal slowing due to the cadence alone. But, I have
been doing this for a long time, and can allow the bike to descend at
about a 200rpm cadence if conditions allow. That takes some getting used
to, but at least until then you can take descents more slowly.

We used to do all our winter training on fixed gears. The idea was to
develop something called "suppless" (suppleness, but it seemed more
significant in French). I don't know about that, but it did develop your
ability to tough out a climb in whatever gear you happened to have. This
was important in the days before modern derailleurs, when you literally
could not downshift while in the midst of a climb.

It's also fun to ride a fixed gear. But you need to get a ratio that is
more suitable, especially for flat-to-downhill sections. With your 39x21
gear, a 48.5" ratio, at 100rpm you are only going 14mph. Even a gentle
downhill will get you up to 200rpm, which you will not be comfortable
with. The result is that you will slow down, and your max speed will be
15mph.

Quoted message said:

My test was on a road bike with my commuting rack and bag, so not
necessarily a good fixie comparison, but it's what I've got. I wasn't
trying to hammer at all, just kind of touring speed, since much of my
intent for the fixie will be riding around the neighborhood with kids.

Even for that, get a bigger gear. You will not be challenged in any event
riding with kids, and a bigger gear will let you go beyond rides with kids
on your fixed gear.

Quoted message said:

Fixie cogs seem expensive at $25-35 each (gee, you can get a whole 9
speed cassette for that), so I'm looking for opinions from the
experienced before I take the plunge.

You can do better than that kind of price. Look for a swap meet in your
area, where you can get cogs for $5 or less. Even new, you should be able
to get cogs for less than $15. It is good to have a selection. I have
everything from 12 to 21 teeth.

--

David L. Johnson

__o | What is objectionable, and what is dangerous about extremists is
_`\(,_ | not that they are extreme, but that they are intolerant. --Robert
(_)/ (_) | F. Kennedy

"Michael Press" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

I'm about to convert an old road bike to a fixie (see recent post) and
I'm trying to decide which cog size to use.

-snippage

Quoted message said:

But I know the typical fixie is 42-16 or 17 (66 gear inches), so the
39-21 (50 gear inches) seems out of whack for an experienced (though
heavy, 210#) rider.
Fixie cogs seem expensive at $25-35 each (gee, you can get a whole 9
speed cassette for that), so I'm looking for opinions from the
experienced before I take the plunge.

I use a 40-15, and I'm 220#.
I ride around the neighborhood with my son on his trike, go on long weekend
rides, and take a daily flat lunch ride.
It's a good gear. If I did more hilly stuff I'd probably have a bigger gear,
not smaller, so I can get down the hills again.
I had a 14 on there for a while, but it was a $5 no-name cog, and it tried
to strip all the threads off my hub. So $25 seems pretty good.

Philip

Jay Hill <[email hidden]> wrote:

I use 60" for commuting (it's flat round here, but I like an easy gear
for the days when I'm trashed after a race/whatever and it's windy etc).

I suggest starting with that.

Arthur

--
Arthur Clune http://www.clune.org
"Technolibertarians make a philosophy out of a personality defect"
- Paulina Borsook

Michael Press said:

I'm about to convert an old road bike to a fixie (see recent post) and
I'm trying to decide which cog size to use.

I nearly always use a 49 chainring, and then use either 21, 19, or 18
cogs depending on how fit I am. I also have a 44 chainring for very
hilly routes.

Michael Press said:

I'm about to convert an old road bike to a fixie (see recent post) and
I'm trying to decide which cog size to use.

I've followed Sheldon's advice and found 42-15 to work quite well for
all but the steepest here in Sonoma County. Mine is a flip flop and
the free side is a 17, though the only time it's been used was to let
a friend try my bike out for size. It gets carried along though in
case of bonking.

Ride it, you'll like it.

Phil

Michael Press said:

I'm about to convert an old road bike to a fixie (see recent post) and
I'm trying to decide which cog size to use.

I'm running a relatively freakish 53-16. It's my favorite road gear,
and what works best for me on the flat. Doesn't help the rear braking
much though...

Mark Hickey
Habanero Cycles
http://www.habcycles.com
Home of the $695 ti frame

I have a fixed gear with two sizes of chainrings and 4 different cogs.
42 and 39 tooth chainrings. 15, 16, 17 fixed cogs. And 18 single
speed freewheel. The most used is the 42x17 combination. Good for
anything up to about 20 mph. I use the 42x15, on the other side of
this wheel, when the expected pace is above 20 mph. On my geared bike
I spend about 99% of the time in the 42x15, 42x16, 42x17, and 42x19
gears. These gears can easily handle 14 to 24 mph with a comfortable
variation in cadence.

39x21 or 39x19 seems way to low.

Michael Press <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

I'm about to convert an old road bike to a fixie (see recent post) and
I'm trying to decide which cog size to use.

I tried the "ride around the neighborhood in a single gear" trick and
settled on a 39-21t - far too big for downhills but big enough to get
me up hills and comfortable on flats. The 19 seemed a bit harder than
I'm used to; I prefer high-cadence, low gears on hills. I ride 53-39
with 12-27 on my double road bike.

My test was on a road bike with my commuting rack and bag, so not
necessarily a good fixie comparison, but it's what I've got. I wasn't
trying to hammer at all, just kind of touring speed, since much of my
intent for the fixie will be riding around the neighborhood with kids.

But I know the typical fixie is 42-16 or 17 (66 gear inches), so the
39-21 (50 gear inches) seems out of whack for an experienced (though
heavy, 210#) rider.

Fixie cogs seem expensive at $25-35 each (gee, you can get a whole 9
speed cassette for that), so I'm looking for opinions from the
experienced before I take the plunge.

Thanks,
Michael

Michael Press <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

I'm about to convert an old road bike to a fixie (see recent post) and
I'm trying to decide which cog size to use.

....
But I know the typical fixie is 42-16 or 17 (66 gear inches), so the
39-21 (50 gear inches) seems out of whack for an experienced (though
heavy, 210#) rider.

Fixie cogs seem expensive at $25-35 each (gee, you can get a whole 9
speed cassette for that), so I'm looking for opinions from the
experienced before I take the plunge.

I'm also new to fixed gear. I put one together last December and now
have about 1100 miles on it. I have a 42-22 gearing, too easy for
most people but I live in a very hilly area.

Tom

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

I'm also new to fixed gear. I put one together last December and now
have about 1100 miles on it. I have a 42-22 gearing, too easy for
most people but I live in a very hilly area.

I, too, live in a very hilly area-Marin country-and I ride a 45 chainring and a
double sided hub with 17 and 20 giving 70" and 60". I can climb anything around
here on 60". 42-22 wil spin you out on even the gentlest downhill. You can
usually clinb fixed on a gear 10"to 15" higher than you use with a freewheel.
Phil Brown

Michael Press said:

I'm about to convert an old road bike to a fixie (see recent post) and
I'm trying to decide which cog size to use.

I tried the "ride around the neighborhood in a single gear" trick and
settled on a 39-21t - far too big for downhills but big enough to get
me up hills and comfortable on flats. The 19 seemed a bit harder than
I'm used to; I prefer high-cadence, low gears on hills. I ride 53-39
with 12-27 on my double road bike.

My test was on a road bike with my commuting rack and bag, so not
necessarily a good fixie comparison, but it's what I've got. I wasn't
trying to hammer at all, just kind of touring speed, since much of my
intent for the fixie will be riding around the neighborhood with kids.

But I know the typical fixie is 42-16 or 17 (66 gear inches), so the
39-21 (50 gear inches) seems out of whack for an experienced (though
heavy, 210#) rider.

Fixie cogs seem expensive at $25-35 each (gee, you can get a whole 9
speed cassette for that), so I'm looking for opinions from the
experienced before I take the plunge.

66" is an old standard (about 42 x 17 or 52 x 21). It's good on the
flat and will get you up the drags (not the real hills, unless you are
incredibly strong).

Michael Press said:

I'm about to convert an old road bike to a fixie (see recent post) and
I'm trying to decide which cog size to use.

I tried the "ride around the neighborhood in a single gear" trick and
settled on a 39-21t - far too big for downhills but big enough to get
me up hills and comfortable on flats. The 19 seemed a bit harder than
I'm used to; I prefer high-cadence, low gears on hills. I ride 53-39
with 12-27 on my double road bike.

My test was on a road bike with my commuting rack and bag, so not
necessarily a good fixie comparison, but it's what I've got. I wasn't
trying to hammer at all, just kind of touring speed, since much of my
intent for the fixie will be riding around the neighborhood with kids.

But I know the typical fixie is 42-16 or 17 (66 gear inches), so the
39-21 (50 gear inches) seems out of whack for an experienced (though
heavy, 210#) rider.

Fixie cogs seem expensive at $25-35 each (gee, you can get a whole 9
speed cassette for that), so I'm looking for opinions from the
experienced before I take the plunge.

Lots of good answers, so I'll just add another data point:

I built up my fixie a few weeks ago, and have so far been using a 40x14
(about 75"😉. This has been fine for the riding I've done so far, which has
been quite short rides (< 10 km) with a few medium-ish hills. I also have
a 16 tooth cogwheel (got them both used for really cheap), which I have not
yet tried, but I'll probably put it on if I ever try this bike on my
commute, which is fairly hilly and ends with a 350 meter climb.

I used to spin up hills in a *really* low cadence, but I've been gradually
moving to higher gears as my strength and knees improve.

Hill climbing on a fixie has a surprisingly different feel to it; it's
difficult to predict what it will be like by sticking to a single ratio on
a geared bike. It's probably partly psychological, but it feels a lot
easier on the fixie.

--
Benjamin Lewis

Keep on keepin' on.

Michael Press said:

I'm about to convert an old road bike to a fixie (see recent post) and
I'm trying to decide which cog size to use.

I have 42-16 on my Surly Cross-Check. Although it's a single-speed
setup, it should be valid as I don't really coast much.

URL: http://www.pp.fishpool.fi/~as/pics/misc/crosscheck.html

I used to run 42-18 on the same bike, but I found out that it was on the
small side even on the flat with a good tailwind. 42-16 for me seems to
be big enough up to about 42 km/h (26 mph), and it gets up the local
rolling hills, some of which are steep but none are very long.

In practice I seem to ride at about 30-32 km/h average speed (19-20
mph), usually about 1.5 hours at a time. For me these are hard, short
training rides. If I used the bike for commuting or other casual riding
I would certainly use a lot smaller gear.

-as

47-17 (75"😉 is my sweet spot but i only ride my fixed around relatively
flat areas (not downtown seattle but downtown saint paul). i'd optimize
your preferred cruising spead around your preferred cadence and if you can't
go up hills reduce your gear to suit.
--
david reuteler
[email hidden]

"David Reuteler" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

47-17 (75"😉 is my sweet spot but i only ride my fixed around relatively
flat areas (not downtown seattle but downtown saint paul). i'd optimize
your preferred cruising spead around your preferred cadence and if you

can't

Quoted message said:

go up hills reduce your gear to suit.
--
david reuteler
[email hidden]

46-18 (69"😉 for me. Flats, ascents, descents. Limitations, I tray to stay
away from anything over 8% grade.
-tom

Michael Press said:

I'm about to convert an old road bike to a fixie (see recent post) and
I'm trying to decide which cog size to use.
Fixie cogs seem expensive at $25-35 each (gee, you can get a whole 9
speed cassette for that), so I'm looking for opinions from the
experienced before I take the plunge.

Thanks,
Michael

42x15 or 42x16 on my training bike, 49x17 on my race bike at the
moment, will go to 49x16 in a week or two, then 49x15 if I feel like
it. There are no monster hills around here, 70" gear is practical for
climbing as slow as 10mph and descending at 30mph.

Shop around for sprockets, $25 seems pretty high end for a hack bike
Kinky Cowboy*

*Batteries not included
May contain traces of nuts
Your milage may vary

Michael Press said:

I'm about to convert an old road bike to a fixie (see recent post) and
I'm trying to decide which cog size to use.

I tried the "ride around the neighborhood in a single gear" trick and
settled on a 39-21t - far too big for downhills but big enough to get
me up hills and comfortable on flats. The 19 seemed a bit harder than
I'm used to; I prefer high-cadence, low gears on hills. I ride 53-39
with 12-27 on my double road bike.

My test was on a road bike with my commuting rack and bag, so not
necessarily a good fixie comparison, but it's what I've got. I wasn't
trying to hammer at all, just kind of touring speed, since much of my
intent for the fixie will be riding around the neighborhood with kids.

But I know the typical fixie is 42-16 or 17 (66 gear inches), so the
39-21 (50 gear inches) seems out of whack for an experienced (though
heavy, 210#) rider.

Fixie cogs seem expensive at $25-35 each (gee, you can get a whole 9
speed cassette for that), so I'm looking for opinions from the
experienced before I take the plunge.

Thanks,
Michael

My fixed gear city bike 50 x 18 with 27" clinchers.

I'll be using 50 x 16 when I get well again.

I live in flat to rolling country where the only steep hills are short
and I can usually grunt my 200Ib ass up them using the anaerobic
stepping machine approach.

39 x 21 sounds like a fun off-road gear to me.

Marcus

Michael Press said:

But I know the typical fixie is 42-16 or 17 (66 gear inches), so the
39-21 (50 gear inches) seems out of whack for an experienced (though
heavy, 210#) rider.

Fixie cogs seem expensive at $25-35 each (gee, you can get a whole 9
speed cassette for that), so I'm looking for opinions from the
experienced before I take the plunge.

I'm a heavy fellow at 230lbs and I ride 46x16 w/ 170mm crank arms on a
700C rear wheel in and around Portland, Oregon.

I've taken that up to Hoyt Arboretum (above the zoo) and back down again
(not quite the Zoobomb route, though). I take it every day to an office
about 10 miles from my home that includes a descent down to river grade, a
long trek along the river, then a climb back up to each destination.
Riding it out to Sandy, however, was brutal. Blame that on it being
Christmas Day (midwinter, so poorer conditioning and freezing wet).

I can go down a hill at 30+mph without being thrown from the saddle. I
can cruise at 20 pretty comfortably.

All in all, I'm really happy with it and don't think I'll be changing
anytime soon.

EK

Arthur Clune said:

Jay Hill <[email hidden]> wrote:

No I didn't.