In article <[email hidden]>, Michael Press
Quoted message said:I'm starting to research buying a new bike to indulge my
newfound fixed gear addiction. (My existing fixie is my
'88 Miyata road bike with tri geometry, a way too short
top tube, worn out drivetrain parts and a hack of a fixie
hub - epoxied freewheel. It'll cost enough money to get
the fit and parts right that I'd rather start new). Price
isn't an issue.
I assumed I'd want a frame with similar geometry to my
road bikes,
73/73. I notice that the Cannondale and Fuji track bikes
have 74.5 head tube and 73 or 72.5 seat tube
angles. Why so steep head tube angles? Is that
preferred for actual velodrome riding for some
reason, perhaps sprinting? The top tubes are still
longish, 57cm for the 56 cm Cannondale frame.
Any suggestions on frame size (I ride 57 and 58 cm road
bikes now) - any reason to step down in frame size like
you do on a cyclocross frame?
BTW, my favorite bike is my aluminum Cannondale road bike
with Spinergy Spox wheels - I love the stiff frame, and
the composite spokes dampen the road shock. My ideal new
fixie would be a regular new Cannondale road frame with
Spox wheels with the freehub replaced with the Surly
cassette hub converter, except that the regular road
frames have vertical dropouts. I'd consider the road frame
with the White eccentric hub to solve the dropout problem,
but seems like at that point I might as well get the track
frame. That brings me back to the geometry issue I asked
about above....
Thanks, Michael
Here's a couple of coppers.... I've had several frames
that at one time or another have been built up as fixies.
All fall between 56 to 58 cm in size. One was an older
MTB frame, the others; various road frames. Among the
roadies: a tourer with 45 cm chainstays and several road
frames sporting more or less typical racing head and seat
tube angles.
I loved 'em all for different reasons. Fixie A with the
short wheelbase had sprint bull horn bars and was a delight
in tight city traffic and corners. Fixie B (the tourer) had
drop bars, Brook's saddle, 28c tires with full fenders and
an upright seating posture; it's comfort was unsurpassed on
100+ km rides.... The purpose for which I built the bikes
(riding Doh! ;-) was integral in determining the suitability
of the frame used. It also influenced the choice of
secondary components and their setup; stems, tires,
handlebars... These also dramatically alter the ride
characteristics of bike.
No news there. But it's good to remember that there's a
symbiotic relationship between frame geometry and the
handling characteristics of the bike. So consider the frame
geo but, more importantly, also think over in what capacity
the fixie will be used; commuting, velodrome racing etc,
short recreational rides.... This should be the key factor.
If you intend it for general road use then (apart from
geometry) consider the following
- will the frame build up without toe touch?
- does it allow for a wide range of tires (> 23c)
- Is the fork crown drilled for a front brake
- what's the spacing of the rear DOs etc...
You love the feel of your Cannondale. Start from a
simmilar frame and keep in mind the type of riding
proposed for the fixie.
luke