first step to my first fixie...

Kim Hawtin said:

Hi guys,

wrangled with my old 10speed Repco 27" roadie last week.
its now a single speed =) nice chainline between the ~42 front and ~15 rear..
no more mangled deraluer front or rear...

i've chopped a good six inches out of the chain and its a bit loose,
but taking out one more link means the rear hub has almost no dropout
to bite into when done up...

was wondering what the tension needs to be on the chain?

anyone have experience SS'ing something like this?

cheers,

kim

Tight enough that the chain doesn't come off, and loose enough that the
wheel spins freely.

See what the chain tension gnome says:
http://www.fixedgeargallery.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2633

And of course Sheldon:
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/fixedb.html#tension

Now the really good news - you can just screw a track cog onto that hub,
fix the spacing and redish the wheel and you've got a fixed gear.

--
Nick

NoZX6R said:

Kim said:

was wondering what the tension needs to be on the chain?

anyone have experience SS'ing something like this?

Tight enough that the chain doesn't come off, and loose enough that the
wheel spins freely.

not sure about the "chain doesn't come off", need to ride it more =)

Quoted message said:

See what the chain tension gnome says:
http://www.fixedgeargallery.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2633

And of course Sheldon:
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/fixedb.html#tension

Now the really good news - you can just screw a track cog onto that hub,
fix the spacing and redish the wheel and you've got a fixed gear.

ok, so the cogs and freewheel thingy unscrew from the hub proper?

and the track cog screws onto the hub?

hmmm i need another chain whip type thing =)
this is fun!

cheers,

Kim

Kim said:

NoZX6R said:

Kim said:

was wondering what the tension needs to be on the chain?

anyone have experience SS'ing something like this?

Tight enough that the chain doesn't come off, and loose enough that the
wheel spins freely.

not sure about the "chain doesn't come off", need to ride it more =)

If the chainline is good, then the chain shouldn't go overboard unless
it's _really_ loose.

Quoted message said:

ok, so the cogs and freewheel thingy unscrew from the hub proper?

and the track cog screws onto the hub?

yep

Quoted message said:

hmmm i need another chain whip type thing =)

yep, and you might want to put a lockring on with some Loctite to make
sure the cog doesn;t unscrew itself while you're riding.

Quoted message said:

this is fun!

cheers,

Kim

Kim said:

NoZX6R said:

Kim said:

was wondering what the tension needs to be on the chain?

anyone have experience SS'ing something like this?

Tight enough that the chain doesn't come off, and loose enough that the
wheel spins freely.

not sure about the "chain doesn't come off", need to ride it more =)

If the chainline is good, then the chain shouldn't go overboard unless
it's _really_ loose.

Quoted message said:

ok, so the cogs and freewheel thingy unscrew from the hub proper?

and the track cog screws onto the hub?

yep

Quoted message said:

hmmm i need another chain whip type thing =)

yep, and you might want to put a lockring on with some Loctite to make
sure the cog doesn;t unscrew itself while you're riding.

Quoted message said:

this is fun!

cheers,

Kim

"Kim" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:1125913796.782129@teuthos...

Quoted message said:

NoZX6R said:

Kim said:

was wondering what the tension needs to be on the chain?

anyone have experience SS'ing something like this?

Tight enough that the chain doesn't come off, and loose enough that the
wheel spins freely.

not sure about the "chain doesn't come off", need to ride it more =)

Quoted message said:

See what the chain tension gnome says:
http://www.fixedgeargallery.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2633

And of course Sheldon:
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/fixedb.html#tension

Now the really good news - you can just screw a track cog onto that hub,
fix the spacing and redish the wheel and you've got a fixed gear.

ok, so the cogs and freewheel thingy unscrew from the hub proper?

and the track cog screws onto the hub?

hmmm i need another chain whip type thing =)
this is fun!

cheers,

Kim

I screwed my cog on by hand and tightened it by dint of going for a good
stomping ride. Worked a treat.

quote='NoZX6R'Kim said:

NoZX6R said:

Kim said:

was wondering what the tension needs to be on the chain?

anyone have experience SS'ing something like this?

Tight enough that the chain doesn't come off, and loose enough that the
wheel spins freely.

not sure about the "chain doesn't come off", need to ride it more =)

If the chainline is good, then the chain shouldn't go overboard unless
it's _really_ loose.

Quoted message said:

ok, so the cogs and freewheel thingy unscrew from the hub proper?

and the track cog screws onto the hub?

yep

Quoted message said:

hmmm i need another chain whip type thing =)

yep, and you might want to put a lockring on with some Loctite to make
sure the cog doesn;t unscrew itself while you're riding.

Quoted message said:

this is fun!

cheers,

Kim

[/quote]

If you're using you're old road wheel, you need a bottom bracket lockring not a track one. They have different diameters. Lockring and locktite are a good idea. However, if you can't be bothered just make sure you use your brake alot and try not to resist the pedal motion too often.

With chain tension, generally you need about 1/2 inch of movement when you hold the middle of the top line of your chain. This is assuming that your ring and cog are perfectly round. You might need to loosen abit more depending on whether there are any tight spots through the rotation of drive. What Nick says is spot on ... definately check out those sites.

koon

NoZX6R said:

Kim said:

NoZX6R said:

Kim wrote:
> was wondering what the tension needs to be on the chain?
Tight enough that the chain doesn't come off, and loose enough that the
wheel spins freely.

not sure about the "chain doesn't come off", need to ride it more =)

If the chainline is good, then the chain shouldn't go overboard unless
it's _really_ loose.

had a play with it this mornen, theres about an inch and a half of travel =/

i got myself a good chainbreaker/unbreaker, so putting it in is no problem,
so maybe a half-link?

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

ok, so the cogs and freewheel thingy unscrew from the hub proper?
and the track cog screws onto the hub?

yep

too easy. whats one of those gunna cost? =)

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

hmmm i need another chain whip type thing =)

yep, and you might want to put a lockring on with some Loctite to make
sure the cog doesn;t unscrew itself while you're riding.

i have a similar vintage bike in the shed that can donate its lock ring =D

cheers,

kim
~ wonder if gemma has any of track cogs laying around she would like to part with 😉

Koon Yong said:

NoZX6R said:

Kim said:

NoZX6R wrote:

>Kim wrote:
>
>
>>was wondering what the tension needs to be on the chain?
>>
>>anyone have experience SS'ing something like this?
>
>Tight enough that the chain doesn't come off, and loose enough that

the

Quoted message said:

>wheel spins freely.

not sure about the "chain doesn't come off", need to ride it more =)

If the chainline is good, then the chain shouldn't go overboard unless
it's _really_ loose.

Quoted message said:

ok, so the cogs and freewheel thingy unscrew from the hub proper?

and the track cog screws onto the hub?

yep

Quoted message said:

hmmm i need another chain whip type thing =)

yep, and you might want to put a lockring on with some Loctite to make
sure the cog doesn;t unscrew itself while you're riding.

Quoted message said:

this is fun!

cheers,

Kim

If you're using you're old road wheel, you need a bottom bracket
lockring not a track one. They have different diameters.

oops 🙂
Well I must admit, I've never actually fixed a freewheel hub myself.
Thanks for the correction.

--
Nick

Quoted message said:

koon

Kim Hawtin wrote:
<snip>

Quoted message said:

too easy. whats one of those gunna cost? =)

Last track cog I bought was a Dura Ace and cost $45.

You can buy cheaper ones but there's not much choice in Aus.

<snip>

Quoted message said:

cheers,

kim

--
Nick

NoZX6R said:

Kim Hawtin wrote:
<snip>

Quoted message said:

too easy. whats one of those gunna cost? =)

Last track cog I bought was a Dura Ace and cost $45.

You can buy cheaper ones but there's not much choice in Aus.

<snip>

Quoted message said:

cheers,

kim

--
Nick

Dura Ace is a good bet. Easy to get in either 3/32 or 1/8 chain width. Not a bad price depending on which shop you go to ($40-50). You're quite limited in cog sizes though (13 to 16 teeth). If you don't want to change the front ring of your bike, I'd sugguest go with a 3/32 width so everything matches.

[censored] no name cogs are about $15. I've bought some before and trust me, you don't want to use them. The only advantage of the [censored] cogs is that you can get them in 18T.

You can also try sugino, campy and miche. Most track friendly shops should be able to get them, but I've no experience with those brands.

Cheers
Koon

Koon Yong wrote:
[..snip..]

Quoted message said:

Dura Ace is a good bet. Easy to get in either 3/32 or 1/8 chain width.
Not a bad price depending on which shop you go to ($40-50).

Ouch - you have expensive shops down there. I have bought 2 Dura-Ace
cogs in the last year or so. Both were about $30 (maybe $32), one
included postage from a shop a few suburbs away 'cos I couldn't be
bothered driving there and one was ordered in special from Shimano by my
LBS.

Brian

Brian Watson said:

Koon Yong wrote:
Ouch - you have expensive shops down there. I have bought 2 Dura-Ace
cogs in the last year or so. Both were about $30 (maybe $32), one
included postage from a shop a few suburbs away 'cos I couldn't be
bothered driving there and one was ordered in special from Shimano by my
LBS.

They appear on ebay from time to time too. Gemma has/had a shopfront setup and there's some international sellers that will surely have them. No idea on prices though - that's your job. 🙂

hippy