First ride on track bike

"Gags" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

I put some pedals on my new track bike tonight and took it out for a quick
blat up and down the street (very quiet backstreet so no brakes was not
going to be a problem). I only did a couple of runs up and down but the
way it accelerates is amazing!!! The ratio on the bike is 49/14 (94.5
inches) which is quite a bit larger that the 45/15 (81 inches) that I run
on my road fixie but it felt great. I seemed to be able to get up to speed
really quickly and I can't wait to get out on the track and muck around a
bit with gear ratios. With the bike I got 5 chainrings (48,49,51,53,54)
and 6 cogs (2 each of 14,15,16) so that gives me a range of 81 inches
(48/16) to 104.1 inches (54/14).....not sure what ratio is going to suit me
best but I am looking forward to finding out!!

Gags

On the Newcastle 200 meter velodrome I start the track season off with a
86.06 inch gear (51x16), and now after a few races ( and being put up from B
grade to A ) I have had to move to a 88.71 (46x14), I will move up to 90.00
(50x15) in about 2 weeks, as there is a state open that I will need the
extra gearing for.

Many years ago I have run 91.8 (51x15) when I was doing some pursuit time
trials, but find that on such a small track 91.8 is a bit large for most
other events.

Really the gearing comes down to how strong you are and if your a spinner or
a grinder, the track and the event.

On our 480 meter flat track I find that 91.8 is a good gear unless it is a
windy night.

Just have a play with your gears, start out smallish and work up to a bigger
one to find the best that suits you and your track.

I am a fairly strong sprinter and am quite large at 193 cm tall and 95 kgs
so I can push a bigger gear on that track compared to some of the smaller
guys.

"Boostland" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

"Gags" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

I put some pedals on my new track bike tonight and took it out for a quick
blat up and down the street (very quiet backstreet so no brakes was not
going to be a problem). I only did a couple of runs up and down but the
way it accelerates is amazing!!! The ratio on the bike is 49/14 (94.5
inches) which is quite a bit larger that the 45/15 (81 inches) that I run
on my road fixie but it felt great. I seemed to be able to get up to
speed really quickly and I can't wait to get out on the track and muck
around a bit with gear ratios. With the bike I got 5 chainrings
(48,49,51,53,54) and 6 cogs (2 each of 14,15,16) so that gives me a range
of 81 inches (48/16) to 104.1 inches (54/14).....not sure what ratio is
going to suit me best but I am looking forward to finding out!!

Gags

On the Newcastle 200 meter velodrome I start the track season off with a
86.06 inch gear (51x16), and now after a few races ( and being put up from
B grade to A ) I have had to move to a 88.71 (46x14), I will move up to
90.00 (50x15) in about 2 weeks, as there is a state open that I will need
the extra gearing for.

Many years ago I have run 91.8 (51x15) when I was doing some pursuit time
trials, but find that on such a small track 91.8 is a bit large for most
other events.

Really the gearing comes down to how strong you are and if your a spinner
or a grinder, the track and the event.

On our 480 meter flat track I find that 91.8 is a good gear unless it is a
windy night.

Just have a play with your gears, start out smallish and work up to a
bigger one to find the best that suits you and your track.

I am a fairly strong sprinter and am quite large at 193 cm tall and 95 kgs
so I can push a bigger gear on that track compared to some of the smaller
guys.

Oh on that same track when I was training with Anthony Peden, I think he was
using 92.57 (48x14) to sprint on, he was a lot faster sprinter than I ever
was.

<
http://www.cyclingnews.com/photos/2005/dec05/SCAT05/devonport1/DSC_9300menstrackpeden.jpg >

As you can see he has quite a bit of power.

Gags said:

I put some pedals on my new track bike tonight and took it out for a quick
blat up and down the street (very quiet backstreet so no brakes was not
going to be a problem). I only did a couple of runs up and down but the way
it accelerates is amazing!!! The ratio on the bike is 49/14 (94.5 inches)
which is quite a bit larger that the 45/15 (81 inches) that I run on my road
fixie but it felt great. I seemed to be able to get up to speed really
quickly and I can't wait to get out on the track and muck around a bit with
gear ratios. With the bike I got 5 chainrings (48,49,51,53,54) and 6 cogs
(2 each of 14,15,16) so that gives me a range of 81 inches (48/16) to 104.1
inches (54/14).....not sure what ratio is going to suit me best but I am
looking forward to finding out!!

sight-unseen, I'd recommend 86-88" if you're going to ride at an
outdoor velodrome as a beginner adult. 94.5 is *huge*, you'd only ride
that in a motorpace or something similar to start with.

"Boostland" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

<
http://www.cyclingnews.com/photos/2005/dec05/SCAT05/devonport1/DSC_9300menstrackpeden.jpg >

As you can see he has quite a bit of power.

Has he found the guy who swapped his legs out for tree trunks yet???

"Bleve" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Gags said:

I put some pedals on my new track bike tonight and took it out for a
quick
blat up and down the street (very quiet backstreet so no brakes was not
going to be a problem). I only did a couple of runs up and down but the
way
it accelerates is amazing!!! The ratio on the bike is 49/14 (94.5 inches)
which is quite a bit larger that the 45/15 (81 inches) that I run on my
road
fixie but it felt great. I seemed to be able to get up to speed really
quickly and I can't wait to get out on the track and muck around a bit
with
gear ratios. With the bike I got 5 chainrings (48,49,51,53,54) and 6
cogs
(2 each of 14,15,16) so that gives me a range of 81 inches (48/16) to
104.1
inches (54/14).....not sure what ratio is going to suit me best but I am
looking forward to finding out!!

sight-unseen, I'd recommend 86-88" if you're going to ride at an
outdoor velodrome as a beginner adult. 94.5 is *huge*, you'd only ride
that in a motorpace or something similar to start with.

Thanks Bleve.....think I might start off with 48/15 (86.4 inches) and see
how I go from there.

Also, do I need a special tool to undo the Miche lockring or will a standard
C Spanner do the job?? The indents in the ring look a bit rounded off and I
am not sure if the C spanner will get a very good purchase (I don't want to
strip it out).

Gags

Gags said:

snip.....

Also, do I need a special tool to undo the Miche lockring or will a standard
C Spanner do the job?? The indents in the ring look a bit rounded off and I
am not sure if the C spanner will get a very good purchase (I don't want to
strip it out).

Gags

Lockring?

only on the road, I'd take it off and leave it off, just use a chain whip, fiddling around with a lock ring will really have your track coach smiling and being oh so patient with you...might even sit down beside you and help you swap your sprockets and chain rings...might even do it for you... but then hell might freeze over too

Gags said:

"Bleve" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Gags said:

I put some pedals on my new track bike tonight and took it out for a
quick
blat up and down the street (very quiet backstreet so no brakes was not
going to be a problem). I only did a couple of runs up and down but the
way
it accelerates is amazing!!! The ratio on the bike is 49/14 (94.5 inches)
which is quite a bit larger that the 45/15 (81 inches) that I run on my
road
fixie but it felt great. I seemed to be able to get up to speed really
quickly and I can't wait to get out on the track and muck around a bit
with
gear ratios. With the bike I got 5 chainrings (48,49,51,53,54) and 6
cogs
(2 each of 14,15,16) so that gives me a range of 81 inches (48/16) to
104.1
inches (54/14).....not sure what ratio is going to suit me best but I am
looking forward to finding out!!

sight-unseen, I'd recommend 86-88" if you're going to ride at an
outdoor velodrome as a beginner adult. 94.5 is *huge*, you'd only ride
that in a motorpace or something similar to start with.

Thanks Bleve.....think I might start off with 48/15 (86.4 inches) and see
how I go from there.

Also, do I need a special tool to undo the Miche lockring or will a standard
C Spanner do the job?? The indents in the ring look a bit rounded off and I
am not sure if the C spanner will get a very good purchase (I don't want to
strip it out).

I'm not sure with Miche stuff, with my Shimano lockring I used a
standard C spanner. You can probably use a big set of vise grips if
necessary, but that might damage the ring. I don't confess to having
much experience with lockrings 🙂

BTW, re lockrings, despite rooman's suggestion to the contrary, the
trackies I know tend to use them. Not that everyone does, but the ones
I trust do.

Bleve said:

snip..

I'm not sure with Miche stuff, with my Shimano lockring I used a
standard C spanner. You can probably use a big set of vise grips if
necessary, but that might damage the ring. I don't confess to having
much experience with lockrings 🙂

BTW, re lockrings, despite rooman's suggestion to the contrary, the
trackies I know tend to use them. Not that everyone does, but the ones
I trust do.

Vise grips are probably the best if you dont have a C spanner, as they limit slipping and injury.

havnt seen a lockring at the track for yonks

at all my sessions there is no lockring in sight.

I trust riders who keep pressure on their pedals and ride, not those who forget they cant coast and undo their sprockets in a moment of forgetfulness. In most instances if a sprocket comes undone, it is after a bingle or some other incident which didnt have any bearing on the lack of a lockring.

Lockrings have an application on the road for skid braking . Something you will not do on a track where any braking is a no no.

Gags, if you have a level of comfort about using a lock ring ,go for it , but the time will come when you may well decide you just wont want to fiddle with it.

Enjoy your riding and keep one foot in front 🙂

rooman said:

Vise grips are probably the best if you dont have a C spanner, as they limit slipping and injury.

havnt seen a lockring at the track for yonks

at all my sessions there is no lockring in sight.

I trust riders who keep pressure on their pedals and ride, not those who forget they cant coast and undo their sprockets in a moment of forgetfulness. In most instances if a sprocket comes undone, it is after a bingle or some other incident which didnt have any bearing on the lack of a lockring.

Lockrings have an application on the road for skid braking . Something you will not do on a track where any braking is a no no.

Gags, if you have a level of comfort about using a lock ring ,go for it , but the time will come when you may well decide you just wont want to fiddle with it.

Enjoy your riding and keep one foot in front 🙂

If Gags is running a Miche system with the screwed on boss and splined cogs I would think that a lock ring would be more or less essential

RoryW

Rory Williams said:

If Gags is running a Miche system with the screwed on boss and splined cogs I would think that a lock ring would be more or less essential

RoryW

If Gags is using the three part cog system - the carrier, the cog itself, and the lockring.

Miche use a cog system on some of their own Primato hubs, but you can use the carrier and cog on any track hub - Note that the Miche hub uses a differently threaded lockring than, say, a Formula, Campy, Suntour or DuraAce, but that doesn't affect the carrier - it's the same threading on all track hubs.

If he is using a carrier then its own differently threaded lockring is required, if not, its optional.

rooman said:

Bleve said:

snip..

I'm not sure with Miche stuff, with my Shimano lockring I used a
standard C spanner. You can probably use a big set of vise grips if
necessary, but that might damage the ring. I don't confess to having
much experience with lockrings 🙂

BTW, re lockrings, despite rooman's suggestion to the contrary, the
trackies I know tend to use them. Not that everyone does, but the ones
I trust do.

Vise grips are probably the best if you dont have a C spanner, as they
limit slipping and injury.

havnt seen a lockring at the track for yonks

at all my sessions there is no lockring in sight.

It was explained to me (and I'm no track expert, by any means) that the
lockring is something that is a requirement (but that's hearsay, I
haven't read the rule), and as we do slow down to get off the track etc
that it's not only a rule, but a good idea. Many of the experienced
trackies I've ridden with at Blackburn, once finished racing, will
brake quite hard (not skidding) when coming up to the rail or fence,
and I'm told this can unwind your sprocket if it's not locked on. The
two riders I've been learning from have both recommended its use, and
both are experienced A or former A grade trackies who I trust and
respect. Given that fitting it only takes an extra 30 seconds or so if
you have the right tools, I don't see it being a big deal to not use
it.

Quoted message said:

I trust riders who keep pressure on their pedals and ride, not those
who forget they cant coast and undo their sprockets in a moment of
forgetfulness. In most instances if a sprocket comes undone, it is
after a bingle or some other incident which didnt have any bearing on
the lack of a lockring.

Lockrings have an application on the road for skid braking . Something
you will not do on a track where any braking is a no no.

During a race, sure, but when you're slowing to get off the track?
(genuine question)

rooman said:

If Gags is using the three part cog system - the carrier, the cog itself, and the lockring.

Miche use a cog system on some of their own Primato hubs, but you can use the carrier and cog on any track hub - Note that the Miche hub uses a differently threaded lockring than, say, a Formula, Campy, Suntour or DuraAce, but that doesn't affect the carrier - it's the same threading on all track hubs.

If he is using a carrier then its own differently threaded lockring is required, if not, its optional.

I'm what you might call sub-novice as I just ride a bit fixed to amuse myself. I have a campagnolo hub with a Miche carrier and cog and the lock ring from which I got direct from Hilbricks. The lock-ring screws onto the hub not the carrier.

I understood that the system was designed to make cog changes easier as you only have to undo the lock ring, slide the cog of the carrier, slide on the new cog and do up the lock-ring. you only have to loosen and tighten one threaded part

It was recomended to me to put put loctite on the carrier threads by a bloke at work who does a lot with SS trials bike. He has seen the threads on rear hubs sheared off. The theory was that if the cog gets a bit loose it will put a lot of stress on the thread if it gets tightened with a lot of torque. (eg when someone stamps on the 1:1 gear on a trials bike.

Now I'm not going to exert anything like that, but from the theory point of view having the cog (or its carrier) firmly fixed on the wheel seemed like a good idea to me.

RoryW

Rory Williams said:

I'm what you might call sub-novice as I just ride a bit fixed to amuse myself. I have a campagnolo hub with a Miche carrier and cog and the lock ring from which I got direct from Hilbricks. The lock-ring screws onto the hub not the carrier.

I had the cheap Miche groupset. The hub acts as a splined carrier for the cog to sit on. The splines on the cog and hub match but the cog would just fall off if you do not use a lockring. From memory, the lockring was a standard one and it stopped the cog moving sidways which in turn meant the splines were always "locked" and you could ride the thing.

I thought lockrings were mandatory on the track? I've heard quite a few people not using them over here though so perhaps they turn a blind eye to it?

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