FAQ

[FAQ re-formatted and tidied up - PART ONE]

uk.rec.cycling Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) List Last updated: June 27th 1997

This FAQ is edited and maintained by Simon Ward ([email hidden]) Updates and additions
should be sent to [email hidden]

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The following people have contributed useful information to this FAQ (in alphabetical order):

* James D. Annan ([email hidden])
* Bryan Attewell ([email hidden])
* Peter Crighton ([email hidden])
* Paul Crook ([email hidden])
* Phil Cunningham ([email hidden])
* Chris Hayes ([email hidden])
* Robert Hague ([email hidden])
* Andrew Henry ([email hidden])
* Michael Hoath ([email hidden])
* Gary Marland ([email hidden])
* Neil Marshall ([email hidden])
* David Nulty ([email hidden])
* Alan Paxton ([email hidden])
* Stewart Russell ([email hidden])
* Ian Snowdon ([email hidden])
* John Swindells ([email hidden])
* Rik Wade ([email hidden])
* Simon Ward ([email hidden])
* Matt Wenham ([email hidden])
* John B. Wilkinson ([email hidden])

If you want to see your name here, all you need to do is supply some useful input.

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The Questions ...

* 0. What is uk.rec.cycling?
* 1. A Brief Guide to UK cycling organisations
* 2. I want to buy a custom frame - who can I contact?
* 3. What UK cycling magazines are there?
* 4. I want to get my bike(s) insured - how do I go about it?
* 5. What cycle routes exist within the UK? [UPDATED]
* 6. I'm after a book on cycle maintainence - which should I buy? [UPDATED]
* 7. What are the rules concerning bikes on trains?
* 8. What good mail order outlets are there?
* 9. What's the situation regarding LED lights?
* 9a. I'd like to buy a dynamo for my bike - which should I buy? [UPDATED]
* 10. What is a DataTag? [UPDATED]
* 11. Where can I get information about races and other cycling events?
* 12. I'm very small/tall and can't find a bike to fit. What do I do?
* 13. I'd like to go on a cycling holiday - who offers such things?
* 14. Which panniers should I buy? [UPDATED]
* 15. I'm going touring for the first time - what should I take?
* 16. What is the 'End-To-End'? How do I go about doing it?
* 17. How can I go about transporting my bike(s) on my car?
* 18. I want to buy a trailer/trailerbike for my child. What is available? [UPDATED]
* 19. Is there a definitive way of determining correct saddle height?
* 20. I'm looking to buy a new saddle for my bike, what would you recommend?
* 21. My chain keeps skipping on my cassette/freewheel - what should I do?
* 22. Are there any UK cycling e-mail lists? [NEW]

* Appendix: Useful Addresses

In addition to that little lot, information is desperately required on UK cycle routes and good
cycling books. Both these sections are somewhat sparse at the moment, and I'd like to rectify this
in short order.

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... and the answers

. What is uk.rec.cycling?

uk.rec.cycling is a USENET forum for the discussion of topics relating to cycling in the UK and (to
a lesser extent) Ireland. It does not contain the American bias of groups such as rec.bicycles.misc
and rec.bicycles.tech. Discussion of all aspects of cycling and human-powered transport is welcomed.

This FAQ will be posted to uk.rec.cycling on a quasi-monthly basis and is maintained by Simon Ward
([email hidden]). Copies are also available on the World Wide Web at
halibut.york.ac.ukfaq.htmlOpen ↗

The scope of this FAQ is purposely restricted to issues relevant to cyclists in the UK and Ireland.
For more general information you are referred to rec.bicycles.misc and rec.bicycles.tech and their
appropriate FAQs although the occasional private messages which do appear are generally well
received, provided they're posted in a sensible format. Commercial 'spam' type messages will not be
well received, neither will 'Make Money Fast' schemes, which are illegal in the UK.

1. Contact addresses for UK cycling organisations.

There are a large number of cycling organisations in the UK, catering for all disciplines and
abilities. A non-exhaustive list is given below, and further additions are always welcomed:

* Cyclists Touring Club (CTC) 69 Meadrow Godalming Surrey GU5 3HS Phone: (01483) 417217 WWW:
ctc.org.ukctc.org.ukOpen ↗

The CTC is perhaps the most well known (and certainly the oldest) cycling organisation in the UK.
It was originally founded to increase awareness of cycle touring, but in more recent years has
broadened its emphasis to cover all aspects of cycling and cycle campaigning. Although it is a
national organisation, the CTC is split into a number of District Associations (DAs) which organise
rides and events on a more local level. Membership of the CTC confers numerous benefits, including
relatively cheap cycle insurance.

* AUDAX UK Peter Coulson 57 Hartwell Road Ashton Northampton NN7 2JR WWW: audax.uk.comaudax.uk.comOpen ↗

AUDAX UK exists to promote non-competitive long distance cycling (100km+) and organises events in
all parts of the country. AUDAX rides are not meant to be races, but can be thought of as bridging
the gap between touring and racing, with certain elements of orienteering thrown in for good
measure. Routes for events take the form of a loop or a point-to-point and riders must complete the
course within maximum and minimum time limits. Numerous 'controls' are placed en route, and a rider
must have a card stamped at each of the controls. Despite the often long distances involved, AUDAX
events are fairly informal affairs, and most of the shorter runs are well within the capabilities
of reasonably fit cyclists.

* British Cycling Federation (BCF) National Cycling Centre 1 Stuart Street Manchester M11 4DQ
Phone: (0161) 230231

* British Cyclo-Cross Association (BCCA) 14 Deneside Road Darlington County Durham DL3 9HZ

Cyclocross events have a lot in common with motocross events eg. a circular course involving
different types of terrain, obstacles and large amounts of mud (usually). A typical cyclocross
race lasts for an hour, and the aim is to complete as many laps as possible. A lot of
cyclocrossers ride specialised 'cross bikes although mountain bikes are welcomed at most events
(people have been known to take part in 'cross events riding modified tourers, too). Cyclocross in
the UK is governed by the BCCA (British Cyclo Cross Association) and in order to avoid paying
entry levys, competitors should carry a BCCA Competition Card. In addition, 'on the line' entry is
possible at many 'cross events.

* Trail Cyclists Association (TrailQuest) Raycomb Lane Coddington Ledbury Herefordshire HR8 1JH
Phone/Fax: (01531) 636247 24hr Info: (01531) 632650 WWW: comtecil.demon.co.ukcomtecil.demon.co.ukOpen ↗

* British Mountain Biking National Cycling Centre Stuart Street Manchester M11 4DQ Phone: (0161)
2302301 Fax: (0161) 2310591 WWW: bmb.orgindexx.htmlOpen ↗

* Road Time Trails Council (RTTC) RTTC Assistant National Secretary
T. Bracegirdle 65 Kenmore Road Whitefield Manchester M45 8ES

[email hidden] (John Swindells) wrote: "There's no headquarters as such (methinks), but the
handbook says it all. Handbooks may be ordered, (UKP4 cheque payable to RTTC) by writing to the
above address"

* English Schools Cycling Association (ESCA) Keith Edwards (Public Relations) 59 Jordan Road Sutton
Coldfield West Midlands B75 5AE

Susan Knight (ESCA General Secretary) 21 Bedhampton Road North End Portsmouth PO2 7JX (Addresses
taken from '95 handbook.) -- [mh]

* Tandem Club Peter Hallowell (Secretary) 25 Hendred Way Abingdon Oxfordshire OX14 2AN

"They have area groups similar to the CTC. Have depts to deal with: Non-technical sales; Touring;
Technical advice; Technical sales. Magazine is bi-monthly (on tape for sight impaired). Rides
organised on area basis. Links with international tandem club." [mh]

* British Human Power Club (BHPC) Dennis Adcock (Treasurer and Membership) 29 Chequers Hill
Amersham Bucks HP7 9QD PHONE: (01494) 721088 WWW: ihpva.comihpva.comOpen ↗

Quoted from the BHPC quarterly magazine: "The British Human Power Club was formed to foster all
aspects of human-powered vehicles - air, land and water - for competitive, recreational and utility
activities, to stimulate innovation in design and development in all spheres of HPV's, and to
promote and to advertise the use of HPV's in a wide range of activities. And to have a good laugh
while doing it."

Neil Marshall ([email hidden]) writes: "The club runs a series of races through the summer all
over Britain which provides everyone with the opportunity to compare bikes and if you ask nicely
try them out. If you are fit and have a sleek bike you even have the chance of winning a race but
most people go along for the fun of it."

* The Rough Stuff Fellowship 12 Avondale Road Edgeley Stockport SK3 9NX PHONE: (0161) 429 7858 WWW:
rsf.org.ukrsf.org.ukOpen ↗

The Rough Stuff Fellowship (RSF) was formed in 1955 in order to cater for the interests of cyclists
who prefer byways, drove roads and bridleways to roads. The RSF website has a large selection of
off-road routes both in the UK and abroad, and current membership stands at around 1000.

2. I want to buy a custom frame - who can I contact?

Custom built frames are consistently in demand by discerning cyclists, and there is a bewildering
choice available. Perhaps most well known are the likes of Bob Jackson and Chas Roberts. Having a
frame built to-spec is not cheap - the materials themselves can cost several hundred pounds and then
there's labour to consider on top of all that. Even so, a well built custom frame will literally
last forever. Frame builders don't necessarily restrict themselves to touring or road frames, many
will build custom MTB frames too (Bob Jackson certainly builds MTB, as does Chas Roberts)

The list below is far from complete, but contains a list of framebuilders that have been recommended
by the readership of uk.rec.cycling.

* Bob Jackson Unit 1 9 Union Mills Dewsbury Road Leeds LS11 5DD Phone: (01132) 341144

* Dave Yates/Joe Waugh
M. Steel Cycles Old Northumberland Yard Howden Wallsend NE28 6ST Phone: (0191) 234 4275

* Mercian Cycles 7 Shardlow Road Alvaston Derby DE2 0JG Phone: (01332) 752468

* George Longstaff Albert Street Chesterton Newcastle-Under-Lyme Staffordshire ST5 7JF Phone:
(01782) 561966

* Chas Roberts Cycles 89 Gloucester Road Croydon Surrey CR0 2DN Phone: (0181) 684 3370

* Islabikes (Isla Rowntree) 252 Halesowen Road Cradley Heath West Midlands B64 6NH (specialises in
tourers, bikes for women and trailerbikes)

* Paul Donohue 12 Peel Street Bishop Auckland County Durham

* Graham Weigh (see entry for Deeside Cycles)
* Robin Thorn (see entry for St.John Street Cycles)

* Brian Rourke Cycles 20-24 Waterloo Road Burslem Stoke-on-Trent Staffs PHONE: (01782) 835368

* Dave Lloyd 37 Clayhill Industrial Park Neston Wirral L64 3UG PHONE: (0151) 336 8797 FAX:
(0151) 353 0601

It's also worth pointing out that if your bike is in need of a repaint, a large number of
framebuilders offer a respraying service (for a fee, of course)

There are a number of frame materials available, ranging from good old steel up to titanium and
carbon-fibre composites. From time to time, cycling magazines run articles on the pros and cons of
various framebuilding materials, though the general wisdom will be summarised here (WARNING: anyone
well versed in metallurgy will probably have a fit when they see what I've written, but ...)

* STEEL - Alloy steel is the 'traditional' frame material, and is still the material of choice for
many touring bikes. Steel tubing comes in two general flavours, plain-gauge and butted. Plain
gauge is exactly that, with the tube wall being the same diameter along its length (usually
0.6-1.0mm - it doesn't sound much, but it's enough!), whereas butted tubing is slightly thicker at
either end where lugs are fitted. As anyone who owns a steel framed bike will tell you, it's
fairly heavy, but despite that, there are a lot of advantages. The first of these is that steel is
quite flexible, in other words you can dent a steel frame quite badly, it'll still be rideable and
the chances of the damaged tube breaking are fairly small. Secondly, it is fairly easy for a
framebuilder to replace individual tubes on a steel frame should one break. Steel bikes give a
fairly 'gentle' ride compared to, say, aluminium, as a result of the flexibility of the material.

Reynolds are probably the most well known manufacturer of steel tubing, with a bewildering variety
of tubes on offer. Some of the more common ones are listed below. The list below is far from
exhaustive, especially as Reynolds have withdrawn certain tubesets (notably 653) and introduced new
ones.Reynolds also have a website at reynoldsusa.comreynoldsusa.comOpen ↗ which contains technical
information about the different tubesets.

* 531 - Probably the most well known of Reynolds' tubesets, 531 is a fairly 'standard' tubeset. For
most practical purposes, there are two types of 531 tubing, 531C and 531ST. 531C is a more
lightweight tubeset which is commonly used for light-touring and AUDAX bikes and also some track
bikes too. 531ST (Super Tourist) speaks for itself, a heavier gauged tubeset designed with loaded
touring in mind (Dawes' touring bikes, the Galaxy and Super Galaxy are made of 531ST, for
example). A third variety of 531, 531 Millenium, is available through selected framebuilders
(notably Dave Yates and Paul Donohue) and is marketed as a more 'up to date' variant of 531 (read
into that what you will! -ssw)

* 708 - 708 is a special tubeset manufactured by Reynolds for Raleigh, for their Royal and
Randonneur touring bikes. To the best of my knowledge, 708 isn't available generally, although
Royal/Randonneur framesets (sold as the the Raleigh Gran Tour) are available from Raleigh. The
fact that it's used on touring bikes indicates that it is suited for loaded touring.

* 653/753/853 - the 'state of the art' tubing for road machines. The x53 framesets are subject to
special heat treatment. As you go from 653 to 853, the weight decreases and the price increases.
853 road frames are extremely desireable items. It would seem, at first glance, that 653 would be
a good tubeset for building a light touring bike, though this is NOT the case. General concensus
of opinion is that the x53 frames are eminently unsuitable for loaded touring of any sort.

PROS: Can be quite cheap, easy to repair, very durable. CONS: Heavy, ride can sometimes be
quite 'lively'

Whether or not the 'liveliness' of a frame is a disadvantage or not is purely a matter of
perspective. Most people would want a touring bike to have rock-solid handling (and many do) whereas
road frames tend to be a little more unforgiving. The ride quality of a given frame is an essential
consideration when it comes to buying a bike.

* ALUMINIUM AND TITANIUM - In the quest for lighter bicycles, titanium and aluminium have become
popular. Although there are no truly mass produced titanium frames available (plenty of custom
options though), aluminium framed bikes are fairly common (eg. anything by Cannondale is apt to be
Al-framed). Dealing with titanium first, it's lighter than steel, and considerably more resilient,
both in terms of strength and corrosion resistance, although it is notoriously difficult to weld
(hence the high cost of Ti frames) - many Ti bicycle frames are built of aerospace grade titanium
alloys of varying compositions.

Aluminium is lighter than both titanium and steel, but has the disadvantage (in some peoples eyes)
of giving a rather stiff and unforgiving ride. It is also prone to quite catastrophic failure if
overstressed - when steel would bend, aluminium just breaks (the more knocks that an Al frame takes,
the more likely it is to fracture) Like Ti-frames, aluminium frames are generally made of aerospace
grade alloys which are capable of taking some fairly serious abuse.

PROS (Al): Very light CONS (Al): Prone to brittle fracture if over-abused, stiff ride PROS (Ti):
Lighter than steel, doesn't brittle fracture CONS (Ti): Expensive, difficult to work with

* CARBON-FIBRE - Carbon-fibre frames aren't really frames in the true sense of the word, since the
nature of the material lends itself more to monocoque design (eg. the Lotus Superbike). Carbon
fibre components are really composites, since carbon itself is fairly brittle stuff, so the fibres
themselves are bound into a matrix, generally epoxy or thermoplastic materials in order to
increase the strength - sometimes Kevlar i s bonded into the matrix. That said, it's generally
regarded as being the last word in terms of strength and lightness. It's also the last word in
cost, and carbon fibre frames are generally beyond the reach of most people. Despite the cost,
carbon fibre components are fairly common eg. in some forks and aero wheels (such as Spinergy's).
Graeme Obree has recently manufacturing carbon fibre components such as tri-bars and bar-ends (for
more info: Obree Products Ltd., PO Box 8260, Irvine, Ayrshire, KA11 2DA)

Although carbon composites are very strong, sunlight, heat and chemicals can degrade the matrix.
Once fibres have broken or pulled out of the matrix, the material is permanently weakened. The
working life of a carbon fibre frame (as opposed to components) is open to question, but certainly
it won't be as long as, say, an equivalent steel or aluminium frame.

PROS: Very light indeed, has a certain pose value. CONS: Carbon-fibre widgets are very expensive,
and carbon-fibre matrices are easy to damage.

3. British Cycling Magazines.

Look on the shelves of any decent newsagent and you'll see a whole plethora of cycling magazines
aimed at all levels and disciplines. Unfortunately, most UK cycling magazines have a bias towards
one particular discipline, and there doesn't appear to be a 'general' cycling magazine available,
although 'Cycling Plus' comes pretty close. Given the popularity of mountain and all-terrain bikes,
there exist a large number of publications such as Mountain Bike UK (MBUK) and Mountain Bike World
(formerly MTB Pro).

Racing and cyclocross enthusiasts are well catered for by 'Cycling Weekly', which contains a
comprehensive results list for both road and MTB events and a burgeoning MTB section. Cycling Weekly
also carries some excellent product reviews.

Touring enthusiasts aren't left out either, the most well known publication being the CTCs magazine
'Cycling Touring and Campaigning' (CT&C) which appears on a bi-monthly basis. As well as articles on
touring, CT&C contains excellent articles of general and technical interest. AUDAX UK members
receive the organisation's magazine 'Arrivee' on a quarterly basis.

* Cycling Weekly, Cycle Sport (weekly/monthly) IPC Magazines Kings Reach Tower Stamford Street
London Email: [email hidden] WWW: ipc.orgipc.orgOpen ↗

* Cycling Plus, Mountain Bike World, Mountain Biking UK (all monthly) Future Publishing Ltd.
futurenet.comfuturenet.comOpen ↗

* Cycle Touring and Campaigning (bi-monthly - free to CTC members) CTC Cotterell House 69 Meadrow
Godalming Surrey Phone: (01483) 417217 WWW: ctc.org.ukctc.org.ukOpen ↗

* Bike Culture Quarterly Open Road Ltd. FREEPOST Stockport SK2 7YG Phone: (0161) 483 7657 EMAIL:
[email hidden] WWW: bikeculture.comwelcome.htmlOpen ↗

4. How do I get my bike insured?

Cycle insurance is a real can of worms, and it definitely pays to shop around to try and find a
policy which suits you as well as the insurers. Most of the 'high street' insurance companies offer
cycle insurance only as part of a household contents policy, subject to certain restrictions (see
below). Very few companies offer specific cycle insurance, but these will be covered later.

As has been mentioned, most household policies will offer cycle insurance, although a lot of them
have upper limits on the value of the bike being insured. This varies from company to company, but
is typically around 500 pounds. This is all very well for most people, but if you have a large
number of cycles or even a single expensive one, it can cause problems. Experience has shown that
most insurance companies are prepared to negotiate.

In general, cycle insurance will not be valid:

* if the cycle is damaged during a race (the BCF offer third-party insurance anyway) or during
commercial activity (eg. working as a courier)
* if the cycle is left unlocked in the open.
* if the cycle is stolen from your home and there are no signs of violent entry.
* if the theft is not reported to the police (the company will normally ask for an incident number
and the name of the officer performing any investigation)

Nearly all policies will deduct a certain amount from any compensation to cover wear and tear. Some
insurers offer compensation for accidental damage, some do not. No company that I know of will pay
out if your bike has been 'stripped', whether locked up or not. Also, not all policies apply if your
bike is damaged overseas, so if you plan to go abroad, it's wise to check that your policy will be
valid. Most policies offer worldwide cover for a limited period (usually three months) and one
(Commercial Union) offered cover in the UK and the EC by default.

A couple of cycling organisations, the CTC and BCF, offer third party insurance to their members.
BCF insurance normally covers riding taking part in BCF sanctioned events. The CTC policy is more
general, and provides yearly cover for cycles with 'no-claims' reductions in premiums after the
first year as well as accident cover within the UK. AUDAX UK offer third-party insurance for the
duration of their events.

It's also worth remembering that the cost of your premium will depend on where you live, with
so-called 'high crime areas' (usually London, Manchester, Liverpool, Oxford and Cambridge,
sometimes other places too) costing considerably more than so-called 'low-crime' areas. A good
rule of thumb is that you can expect to pay about 10 pounds per 100 pounds of value of the bike
for 'low crime' areas, two or three times that for other areas. When calculating a premium, don't
forget to add insurance premium tax (2.5% at the moment, 4% from April) - also be aware that some
policies (notably the CTC policy, there may be others) have a weighting for MTBs, since they are
more likely to be stolen than touring or road bikes. In addition, some insurance companies will
not offer policies to students, irrespective of where they live (the definition of 'student'
varies, but it appears to mean anyone between the ages of 18 and 24). The only insurance company
that will definitely insure students is Endsleigh, but their is an upper limit of 350 pounds on
their cycle policy.

For contact info for insurance companies, check out your local Yellow Pages. Many of the big
companies have Freephone (0800) numbers. Be aware that in order for your policy to be valid, you
must send a copy of the original purchase receipt for your bike (or an independent valuation) to the
company, and certain companies won't insure bikes that aren't 'tagged' (eg. with a DataTag)

James D Annan ([email hidden]) writes: "Fern Financial Services (01483 797068) provide cover for
tandems and other bicycles, at a sensible price. Several people who we have spoken to have found
that they can insure their house contents _plus_ tandem, through Fern, for less than they were
paying for house contents alone (many house contents policies have unrealistic upper limits on the
value of a tandem). Highly recommended. Cover for single bicycles is also competitive."

5. What cycle routes exist within the UK?

Whilst the UK doesn't have an extensive network of cycle paths like, say, Belgium or the
Netherlands, there has been a recent increase in the number of dedicated cycle routes in the UK over
recent years. The environmental charity Sustrans (sustrans.co.uksustrans.co.ukOpen ↗) has been developing a
national cycle network over the past few years with a view to having it fully operational by the
turn of the century.

Perhaps the most well known cycle route in the UK is the Sea-To-Sea
(C2C) route from Workington in Cumbria to either Wallsend (near Newcastle) or Seaburn (near
Sunderland). This route, also maintained by Sustrans, takes the rider through some of the most
spectacular scenery in England. Links with B+B establishments and Youth Hostels en route mean
that the route is doable at any pace you wish. There is also an unofficial C2C route page
available.

Paul Crook ([email hidden]) wrote: Two obvious routes that spring to mind are the Camel
Trail in Cornwall and The Tarka Trail in North Devon - both ex railway lines.

The Camel Trail runs from Padstow on the North Cornish coast, inland to Wadebridge along the Camel
Estuary then heads along the river Camel in the direction of Bodmin and finally ends at a Car park
at Poley's Bridge (I'm not sure where this is having never gone all the way to the end ). Think it's
about 17 miles total length, very scenic - coastal views followed by wooded valley. Bikes can be
hired at Padstow and Wadebridge.

The Tarka Trail is about 18 miles and runs from Barnstaple train station (catch a regional railways
train from Exeter, St. Davids). It finishes up in Great Torrington after passing though Bideford.
"Tarka the Otter" countryside as in the book. Bike hire at Barnstaple.

Michael Hoath ([email hidden]) also writes: It might be worth adding that the Tarka trail is
impassable by tandem or anything with a trailer and I understand that part of the Camel Trail is to
be closed.

For those of a more adventurous turn of mind, there's a good deal of cycling to be had in many of
the National Parks, with the Yorkshire Dales, the Peak District and Exmoor being particularly
popular - information can generally be had from tourist information bureaux. On another level, a
privately collated list of rides in Northern England, 'The Thousand Hills', is being made available
by David Nulty - more information can be found at his web-site, redrocks.demon.co.ukredrocks.demon.co.ukOpen ↗.

For those people who do a lot of urban cycling, your local cycling campaign or council may provide
maps of cycle route free of charge (York certainly do, I'm not sure about others -ssw). Dome
Publishing Ltd. produce cycle maps of the following areas: Birmingham (City Centre and Suburbs),
Bristol and Surrounding Area, East Kent (Canterbury and Ashford), Glasgow (City Centre and Suburbs)
and Oxford. In addition, the London Cycling Campaign publish (published?) a book called 'On Your
Bike: Guide to Cycling in London' - I have no idea if this is still available (perhaps someone from
LCC could clarify this one?)

6. What books are available on cycling?

There are numerous books on cycling in general, take a look in your local bookshop and you'll see.
Obviously, books of routes for various parts of the country are available, and the Ordnance Survey
have recently published a series of books of day rides of varying difficulty.

Questions on maintainence often crop up, and rather than address the solutions to common problems,
which will probably be found in one of the rec.bicycles.* FAQs anyway, I'm going to list a series of
maintainence books. Compared to books on general cycling, maintainence books are rather thinner on
the ground, but those that exist are generally good. More often than not, looking something up in a
book will be far more useful than posting a query to the newsgroup and waiting for an answer. (Note,
the list below is very incomplete, and probably won't be updated until I've unpacked all my books
when I've moved house! - ssw)

* 'The Bike Book' (Haynes) From the publishers of the famous car manuals, this somewhat glossy book
tells you how to fix just about any fault you're liable to encounter when on two wheels. Lots of
illustrations and easy to follow instructions take some of the chance out of even difficult
repairs - definitely recommended.

* 'The Bicycle Wheel' by Jobst Brandt (Avocet, ISBN 0-9607236-6-8) Any regular on the
rec.bicycles.* newsgroups will know of Mr. Brandt, since he's written the definitive book on
bicycle wheels. If you're even considering building your own wheels, this is a must have.
Definitely not for the non-technical, but indispensible nonetheless. An equally good Web-based
guide to wheelbuilding can be found on Sheldon Brown's WWW pages
(sheldonbrown.comwheelbuild.htmlOpen ↗). It's worth noting that this book is
available in English and German. The ISBN number for the English version is given.

* 'The Bicycle Repair Book'' by Rob van der Plas (Bicycle Books, ISBN -9332015-5-9) An inexpensive
book on cycle maintainence, mainly let down by the fact that it's incredibly out of date when
compared to, say, 'The Bike Book' (I have the second edition - I'm not sure whether it has been
updated -ssw). That aside, it's useful for those of us who have older bikes or bikes fitted with
retro components. Not as lavishly illustrated as 'The Bike Book' but useful for mechanical
newbies due to the thorough writing style. Good, but not brilliant.

By far the best source of cycling books in the UK is Bicycling Books:

* Bicycling Books
309/311 Horn Lane London W3 0BU

Phone: (0181) 993 3484 Fax: (0181) 993 1891

On the web, a number of the larger Internet bookshops carry books on cycling of all types: try The
Internet Bookshop (bookshop.co.ukbookshop.co.ukOpen ↗) and Blackwells in Oxford (blackwell.co.ukblackwell.co.ukOpen ↗)

310. What is the situation concerning bikes on trains?

Since the railways have been privatised, the entire British rail system has become extremely
fragmented. As a result, so have the conditions regarding carriage of cycles. Different TOCs (Train
Operating Companies) have different rules, although a few general guidelines exist:

* Reservations must be made in advance, so you need to know what train you're travelling on.
Usually, a 'cycle fee' of three pounds must be paid. This does not give you the right to travel
with your bike. A fee made must be paid for each complete trip, not each *leg* of the journey
(eg. if you have to change trains twice, you still only pay three pounds) - Carriage of a bicycle
on a train is at the guards discretion. All that said, a great many operators (mostly PTEs,
Strathclyde in particular) still carry bikes for free.

* Space on certain trains will be limited. Most provincial trains are one or two-car multiple-units
('Sprinters'😉 which nominally have space for two cycles (or one loaded bike, in my experience
-ssw). Some TOCs (notably Anglia) have refurbished their multiple units to take up to six cycles.
InterCity trains (run by the likes of GNER and West Coast) have proper guards vans, and space on
these isn't really a problem (Great Western Trains are currently refurbishing the guards vans in
their HST sets, whether this is good or bad news is anyone's guess!). It is still advisable to
book in advance.

* Certain TOCs in London and the South East have restrictions on which trains cycles can and cannot
be carried on. Cycles are not conveyed at all on certain parts of the Underground during peak
hours (Victoria line?)

* Many TOCs will not convey tandems or recumbents *at all* (this will probably be the case with
many services, where space on trains is at a premium. I can see no reason why a tandem or
recumbent cannot be conveyed in the guards van of an Inter City train -ssw)

* Most folding cycles are considered as standard luggage providing they are conveyed in a folded
state. In this case, the cycle fee is not payable.

A lot of railway companies now have pages on the Web, and information on their regulations
governing cycle carriage may (no promises!) be found on their web pages. An index of TOC homepages
can be found at:

rail.co.ukrail.co.ukOpen ↗

In addition to this, RailTrack have their own website from which travel information can be obtained,
although there is little, if any, information on cycle carriage railtrack.co.ukrailtrack.co.ukOpen ↗ whether
you'll find information specifically for cyclists is open to question, but contacts for the TOCs are
given so you can pursue your own enquiries. Some TOCs (specifically GNER, although others may be
doing so) are actively seeking the opinions of cyclists as to provision of cycling facilities, so
things may improve in the near future.

For cyclists travelling abroad via the Channel Tunnel, cycles can be carried on Le Shuttle by prior
arrangement, and bikes are carried on Eurostar via the 'Esprit' parcel service. Unfortunately, there
is no guarantee that the bike and its rider will be on the same train. Cost is around fifty pounds
(from: Ian Snowdon ([email hidden])

A good guide to the current policies of the different TOCs (which seem to change with depressing
regularity) is available via the Cycleway Homepage. A similar guide to Bikes on Ferries can be found
at the same site (this info can also be obtained from the CTC handbook)

8. What good mail order outlets are there?

If you can't get something from your local bike shop, it's logical to turn to mail-order. There
exist a lot of mail-order outlets in the UK, although opinion is divided over which are good and
which aren't. Several outlets are regularly mentioned in uk.rec.cycling (for a variety of reasons -
this list is not here to say which are 'good' and 'bad', you can draw your own conclusions), and a
list of these is given below. Most of these companies advertise in cycling magazines (eg. Cycling
Plus, Cycling Weekly, CT&C)

* St.John Street Cycles 91-93 St.John Street Bridgewater Somerset TA6 5HX PHONE: (01278) 441502
FAX: (01278) 431107 WWW: sjscycles.comsjscycles.comOpen ↗

* Ribble Cycles 6-8 Watery Lane Preston Lancashire PR2 2NN PHONE: (01772) 687722 FAX:
(01772) 687733

* Deeside Cycles Transport Hall Nelson Street Shotton Flintshire CH5 1DH PHONE: (01244) 831110 FAX:
(01244) 812067 EMAIL: [email hidden] WWW: business.u-net.com~deesidecycleOpen ↗

* Geoffrey Butler Cycles 15 South End Croydon Surrey CR0 1BE PHONE: (0181) 688 5094 FAX: (0181) 680
2068 EMAIL: [email hidden] WWW: pavilion.co.ukcycleOpen ↗

* Parker International Lilyhurst Industrial Estate Abbey Road Sherriffhales Shropshire TF11 8RL
PHONE: (01952) 676777 FAX: (01952) 676234 EMAIL: [email hidden] WWW:
parker-international.co.ukparker-international.co.ukOpen ↗

* Edinburgh Bicycle FREEPOST 8 Alvanley Terrace Whitehouse Loan Edinburgh EH9 0LY PHONE: (0131) 228
1368 FAX: (0131) 229 4447 EMAIL: [email hidden] WWW:
edinburgh-bicycle.co.ukedinburgh-bicycle.co.ukOpen ↗

* Freewheel 153-154 Briggate Leeds LS1 6NH PHONE: (0113) 245 6867 FAX: (0113) 244 8662 EMAIL:
[email hidden] WWW: freewheel.co.ukfreewheel.co.ukOpen ↗

* Wheelbase Staveley Mill Yard Staveley Kendal Cumbria LA8 9LS PHONE: (01539) 821443 FAX: (01539)
821445 WWW: wheelbas.demon.co.ukwheelbas.demon.co.ukOpen ↗

* Swallow Tandems Llangedwyn Mill Llangedwyn Oswestry Shropshire SY10 9LD PHONE: (01691) 780050
FAX: (01691) 780110 EMAIL: [email hidden] WWW: swallow-tandems.co.ukswallow-tandems.co.ukOpen ↗ (If
you want to know anything about tandems, check out their web site)

* Settle Cycles The Station Yard Settle BD24 9BD PHONE: (01729) 822216

* Spa Cycles 1 Wedderburn Road Harrogate North Yorkshire HG2 7QH PHONE/FAX: (01423) 887003 Good
source for Stronglight and TA components, and touring kit in general. Also (along with SJSC) one
of the few sources of Suntour components in the UK.

* CTC Shop - same address as the CTC Good source of clothing, luggage etc. You don't have to be a
member of the CTC to take advantage of the shop, and they welcome personal callers.

Along slightly different lines, Francis Thurmer offers a mail-order service for 'hard to find' items
such as deep-drop brakes and other bits of 'retro' bike equipment. His address is given below, and a
25 page catalogue is available on request (enclose an SAE)

* Francis Thurmer CYCLES PLUS 225 Desborough Road High Wycombe Bucks HP11 2QW

9. What's the situation regarding LED lights?

The Road Traffic Act states that for use at night, a bicycle must be fitted with front and rear
lights that conform to the appropriate British Standard (which isn't exactly held in high esteem by
many people!) or a suitable European equivalent. There's a general conflict of opinion as to whether
LED lights, particularly those with only a 'flashing' mode, conform to the British Standard, being
as an LED isn't a 'steady' source in the same way that an incandescent bulb is. Despite that, many
LED lights are built to Dutch or German standards, so should technically be legal in the UK - more
information can be found in the February/March issue of the CTC magazine.

All that said, LED lights are widely used because they're available fairly cheaply, are very visible
and can go for a long time before the batteries need changing. There have been no reports of anybody
being prosecuted for using LED lights on their bikes. Despite the quasi-legality of LED lights,
having solely LED lights on your bike (especially one of those green 'headlight' jobs) is not a good
idea. Indeed, a large number of people use LEDs as backup lights, either with a dynamo or with more
conventional lights. Although it's common sense, riding at night without lights is not only
dangerous, it's also illegal.

There are a number of useful sources of lighting information on the Web:

AUDAX UK have a useful lighting resource section at aukhawk.demon.co.uklights.htmOpen ↗
which, although it is aimed at long-distance night riders, contains some very useful information and
links. Also, Andrew Henry maintains a bicycle lighting FAQ at
bath.ac.uklights.htmlOpen ↗

9a. I'd like to buy a dynamo for my bike - which should I buy?

Although dynamos could be seen as 'old technology', they are very popular, particularly with AUDAX
riders and the like, for the obvious reason that they don't require batteries. There are two common
types of dynamo, the traditional 'sidewall' dynamo which fits to the forks or seatstay of the bike
and is driven by a roller which makes contact with the sidewall of the tyre, and the 'bottom
bracket' dynamo, which fits underneath the bike and is powered via a roller which makes contact with
the rolling surface of the tyre. Hub dynamos are also available, in which the dynamo is built into
the hub itself. Fitment of such requires rebuilding of the wheel, and some problems have been
reported using dynamo hubs with quick-release wheels.

The most commonly used bottom bracket dynamos are made by Union and Sanyo, and used in conjunction
with an appropriate light, are pretty reliable above about 5mph. Some people have reported that BB
dynamos are very prone to slippage in wet conditions, although the Union system circumvents this by
using a roughened strip on the roller. BB dynamos aren't particularly difficult to fit, but care
must be taken to ensure that the roller makes a good contact with the tyre. Typical prices for BB
dynamos are between 30 and 35 pounds, and are available from most good cycle shops (St.John Street
Cycles regularly advertise BB dynamos in their magazine ads)

There are a number of sidewall dynamos on the market, the commonly available types are the AXA-HR,
the Union Turbo and the Nordlicht. The Nordlicht is recommended by the CTC, but it has been reported
that it can be difficult to btain (although it is available from the CTC shop). From personal
experience, the AXA-HR is a common choice with local cyclists, since it's fairly cheap, fairly
foolproof and very reliable. It also has a built-in voltage regulator, which is handy for those
people who are developing home-brew lighting systems but don't want to spend their time replacing
blown halogen bulbs. The Union Turbo is similar, but (if memory serves) lacks the voltage regulator,
although a headlamp is available with such a device installed. Installation of sidewall dynamos can
be a little tricky (it's a classic 'three hands' job!) and like BB dynamos, good contact with the
tyre is essential in order to avoid slippage in wet conditions. Also, fitting a dynamo to a seatstay
(rather than a fork blade) can be extremely difficult if you have a rear rack fitted. Use of a
sidewall dynamo carries the price of increased wear on the tyre sidewall, which can sometimes lead
to the sidewall splitting, with potentially nasty results (usually the wheel locking). Many tyres
(in particular the Continental Top Touring/Top Touring 2000 and some Hutchinson tyres) have a
sidewall strip, and if a dynamo is being fitted, the roller should be made to contact this strip,
where the sidewall is thicker. A good sidewall dynamo usually costs between 10 and 20 pounds, which
generally includes appropriate bracketing and lights. Union products are available from most good
cycle shops, although in case of difficulty, their UK distributor is:

* Marwi UK Ltd. Carnaby Industrial Estate Lancaster Road Carnaby Bridlington North Humberside

Phone: (01262) 671942

It's a well-known fact that standard dynamo lights go out when the bike stops, and LED lights are
ideal backup for dynamo users (many people mount a pair of green LED lights on their forks). It is
possible to get lights which remain illuminated for a short time after the bike has stopped. The
Lumotec+ is a front lamp not unlike the standard Union lamp but contains a yellow LED which remains
illuminated for a while after the bike has stopped and visibility is said to be good. A similar rear
light, the 4D-Light is also available. Although both the Lumotec+ and 4D-Light are expensive,
they're probably worthy consideration by people who do a lot of night-riding. They are available
from the CTC Shop. AXA also manufacture a rear dynamo light with LED standby (the Optica 1) which is
available from Spa Cycles in Harrogate.

Finally, for those having trouble mounting dynamos, the CTC shop stock a gadget called the
'Dynoshoe' which is designed to safely support a dynamo. Another version, the 'Dynoshoe LT', which
also supports a lamp, is also available. Both these devices use a cantilever boss as the main
support (thanks to Brian Attewell for this info)

10. What is a DataTag?

A DataTag is a small transponder which is inserted into the seat tube of a cycle, which emits a
unique signal which can be detected using the appropriate equipment. The DataTag was originally
developed by Yamaha for use in motorcycles, but was adapted for pedal cycles. Once a cycle has
been 'tagged, its details are entered into a national database which is available to the police in
the event of a theft (the police also have equipment which can read 'tags, apparently). A DataTag
is a deterrent, not an anti-theft device. Theft of a DataTagged bike should be reported to the
police and the DataTag division of Yamaha (the appropriate procedure is given upon registration).
DataTag is a nationally recognised cycle-coding systems, which is useful when it comes to getting
your bike insured.

Around 6000 bike shops in the UK can fit DataTags, and the kit costs around 25 pounds (you can
either do it yourself or have it fitted at the shop) which includes the cost of registration of
your cycle with Yamaha's DataTag division and several frame stickers (indicating the DataTag code
number and a 'DataTagged Bike' sticker). Reregistration of a Datatagged bike (eg. if it's sold)
costs ten pounds.

Further details should be available from:

DataTag Electronic Identification Systems Yamaha Motor (UK) Limited Sopwith Drive Brooklands
Weybridge SURREY KT13 0UZ

Phone: (01932) 358000 Fax: (01932) 358030

Note that the above address is for Yamaha, from whom general information about DataTags can be
obtained. For more specifics, such as registration queries, changes of address and theft reports,
the NPR DataTag Division should be contacted directly. Their address is:

NPR DataTag Division 1 Marina Court Castle Street Hull HU1 1TJ

Phone: (01482) 222070

--
Stevie D \\\\\ ///// Bringing dating agencies to the \\\\\\\__X__///////
common hedgehog since 2001 - "HedgeHugs" ___\\\\\\\'/
\'///////_____________________________________________

[FAQ re-formatted and tidied up - PART TWO]

11. Where can I get information about races and other cycling events?

In general, information about events rarely gets posted to the newsgroup (unless the event is one
of the big Tours), although a couple of CTC DAs post information about forthcoming rides. This is
not to say that posting race/results info is frowned upon, it just rarely happens. For information
about forthcoming races on a national scale, your best bet is to pick up a copy of 'Cycling
Weekly', which has a comprehensive race listing (both TTs/roadraces and MTB events) and results
service. Cycling Plus also has a 'diary' section, but as C+ is a monthly, the listings aren't as
complete as those in CW.

If you're after local information, you could do a lot worse than looking in your local cycle shop,
especially if they're the sponsors of a local club. If you're actually wanting to join a cycling
club, again, the local bike shop owner will generally point you in the right direction

A list of AUDAX rides is available on the AUDAX UK website (audax.uk.comaudax.uk.comOpen ↗)

12. I'm very small/tall and can't find a bike to fit. What do I do?

Most 'off-the-peg' cycles come in a range of sizes, the size being either the length of the top tube
(generally given in centimetres) or the centre-centre distance between the bottom bracket shell and
the top of the seat tube (generally given in inches). It's a popular misconception that people of a
given height should ride a frame of a particular size, although there's an element of truth that
very tall riders require large frames eg. I (ssw) am 6'2" and ride either a 23" or 23.5" road frame
- this doesn't mean that every other cyclist who is 6'2" rides a 23" frame.

All that said, if you happen to be outside the 'normal' height range, you can have extreme problems
buying a bike, even moreso if you happen to be a woman. Generally, the largest commercially
available frames are in the 25" ballpark, which would probably suit someone who is either well over
six feet tall or has very long legs. For road/touring frames, the smallest sizes are in the 18"/19"
region, but even so, they're designed with the male anatomy in mind. MTB frames tend to be smaller,
and a reasonable rule of thumb is that you can get away with an MTB frame 2-3" smaller than an
equivalent road frame (I've seen MTB frames as small as 14.5" -ssw)

People who are small (ie. less than, say, 5'2"😉 have additional problems, notably with things like
cranks and brake levers (especially brake levers with STI). Dealing with cranks first, 170mm is a
fairly standard size, which is OK if you're an average person. Getting larger cranks is fairly easy,
but getting short cranks can be a nightmare, and modifying existing cranks is not a trivial task
(Highpath Engineering, better known for their transmission components, offer a crank shortening
service). However, Robin Thorn (of St.John Street Cycles manufactures crank-shorteners which bolt
onto the host bikes crank (without damaging it) effectively reducing the crank length. Using these,
it is possible to alter the crank length between 118mm and 154mm (for a 170mm crank). Similarly,
brake levers are set up for 'normal' sized hands, so if you have small hands, you're in trouble
(this is apparently a big problem with STI/Ergo levers), although short-reach brake levers are
available. Generally, if you're shorter than about 5'2", a custom frame is possibly the only way
you'll get a bike that fits. Most framebuilders can build very small frames, and Isla Rowntree
(Islabikes) specialises in building bikes for 'petite' women (eg. 700C wheels, short cranks, short
reach brake levers etc.). Female cyclists may be interested in an article which appeared in a back
issue of CT&C a while back (no date, sorry!) which road-tested a series of 'petite' bikes - all the
women who took part in the test were 5'4" or shorter, if memory serves. In addition, at least one
company, Bicycle Belle, deals specifically with equipment for female cyclists.

Much the same applies if you're extremely tall - even if an 'off the peg' frame seems right, the top
tube may be too small and the ride will be cramped and hence uncomfortable, leaving the often
expensive option of having a frame built 'to spec'. It's worth remembering that if you do have to go
via this route, framebuilders probably have a fair amount of experience in building frames for
extremely tall/short people.

The overriding thing to remember is that a frame should feel comfortable, especially if you're
planning long distance riding, otherwise you've basically got something that's ill-fitting and
unrideable.

13. I'd like to go on a cycling holiday - who offers such things?

The definition of 'cycling holiday' varies from person to person, and it can be either a 'proper'
cycle tour or an organised holiday with a group of people. Holidays of the latter variety will be
considered. The pace of an organised holiday can vary, ranging from gentle pottering around the
countryside with like-minded people to a full-on winter 'training camp'.

There aren't many companies that offer proper cycling holidays, although Bicycle Beano (Bicycle
Beano, Erwood, Builth Wells, Powys, LD2 3PQ - email: [email hidden]) offer cycling
holidays in Wales and other parts of the UK, and have a very good reputation. In addition to this,
the CTC operate a series of tours in various parts of the world, and at various parts of the year, a
listing of which is generally found in the January issue of CT&C magazine (as well as on the Web at
ourworld.compuserve.comctctou97.htmOpen ↗). You have to be a CTC member to
go on such tours, but in general they're extremely well organised, and offer a number of options for
riders of different abilities (I haven't heard anything bad said about them -ssw)

Alternatively, there's the 'training camp', a popular choice both with roadies and MTB-ers who want
to train during the winter months without falling foul of British weather. Training camps aren't
quite as bad as they sound, but they do allow riders the chance to go on train with some of the
world's top pros in places like Majorca and Lanzarote. When you go to a 'camp', there's no
obligation to do all the rides, and you can do as much or as little as you wish. The February '97
edition of 'Cycling Plus' has an interesting, if somewhat short article on training camps, for those
who are interested.

14. Which panniers should I buy?

For carrying luggage on a bike, assuming that you have the appropriate racks, panniers are hard to
beat. Unfortunately, there are a number of different makes on the market, with widely varying
prices. The general concensus of opinion is that there are three makes worth considering: Ortlieb,
Carradice and Karrimor. Some excerpts from a recent thread on panniers follow:

Garry Lee ([email hidden]) wrote: "Carradice is NOT waterproof. I've a Carradice saddlebag which is
fine but need a binliner inside it. Very tough otherwise. I have Ortlieb bags (Rolltop rear
panniers) and handlebar bag. These are totally waterproof, dead easy to put on and off etc. They are
bright red. Aargh! Get dark green in preference. Disadvantage. Only one compartment.

Bottom line. Ortlieb, by a whisker."

Simon Ward ([email hidden]) wrote: "I use Carradice Super-C panniers for stuff like
shopping, taking stuff to/from work as well as for touring. I've had my rear panniers for about 4
years and they're still going strong, as are the front panniers, although they don't get as much
use. The only problem with them is that they're not *that* waterproof, on account of being made of
cotton duck - showerproof yes, but definitely not deluge-proof."

Robert Saunders ([email hidden]) wrote: "Another possibility might be the Karrimor
Aquashield (I think that's what they are called). These are the welded seam, single compartment
panniers with the roll top. They come in two types, one with a flap lid over the roll top closure,
the other without. I use a pair of the former to carry sleeping bags when tandem touring. They
appear to be totally waterproof, most recently tested May/June 1996 in a wet tour in Scotland.
Again, not compartmented, but what panniers are? (other than a side pocket I mean)."

The general concensus is that if you want truly waterproof panniers, go for the Ortliebs, or if your
wallet can't stretch that far, Karrimor Aquashield would seem like a cheaper alternative (there's
not a lot of difference between the price of Ortlieb and Carradice Super-C panniers). Carradice
panniers, although very good, are only showerproof at best, necessitating the use of binliners if
you want to keep things dry! (my opinion, YMMV -ssw)

Ortlieb have a web site, although it is heavily frame-orientated and dislikes Mosaic intensely. The
UK distributor for Ortlieb is:

Lyon Equipment Ltd. Rise Hill Mill Dent Sedbergh Cumbria LA10 5QL

PHONE: (01539) 625493 FAX: (01539) 625454

Carradice are reachable at:

Carradice of Nelson Westmorland Works Nelson Lancs BB9 7BA

and finally, Karrimor can be reached at:

Karrimor International Limited Petre Road Clayton-le-Moors Accrington Lancashire BB5 5JZ

PHONE: 01254 893134 (Factory Shop) WEB: karrimor.co.ukkarrimor.co.ukOpen ↗

In addition to Ortlieb, Carradice and Karrimor, the 'Freedom Bikepacking' range of luggage is being
sold by St.John Street Cycles under the name of 'Thorn Luggage'. This represents good value for
money, and although maybe not as waterproof as Ortlieb bags, they are better value than Carradice -
possibly good for commuting purposes.

Smaller articles of cycle luggage such as frame packs and under-saddle wedge packs (very handy for
keeping tools in) are available from a number of companies, notably Trek and Cannondale, and Marin
have recently introduced a rather smart range of cycle bags. 'Traditional' saddlebags are made by
Carradice, the 'Camper Longflap' being popular with both tourists and long-distance riders (it has
the capacity of a pair of front Super-C panniers ...)

15. I'm going touring for the first time - what should I take?

Luggage for touring is a very personal thing. Somebody asked a similar question ('What should I
take?'😉 on rec.bicycles.misc last year and there was a veritable deluge of replies and luggage
lists. What you take on a tour depends on a) how long the tour is going to be and b) how paranoid
you are. I [ssw] have a tendency to overpack, but a list of what I'd take on a short tour (say, a
week or so) is given below:

TOOLS etc.

* Toolkit (2x10mm combination spanners for brakes, 4/5/6/8mm Allen keys, crank extractor,
HyperCracker, spoke wrench, puncture kit, tyre levers, spare batteries, small adjustable spanner
and spare set of brake blocks)
* Spare spokes (taped to one of the seatstays)
* Spare inner tube (or two)
* Grease (kept in an old film container)
* Cable ties (multitudinous uses!)

For extended periods out in the sticks, I'd include a spare chain (and cassette, if I'm feeling
truly paranoid!). If you're got a Shimano equipped bike, the HyperCracker is an invaluable tool, and
is infinitely lighter and less hassle than a chainwhip and spline remover. All of the above fits
nicely in an old bumbag or under-seat wedgepack. (side note: For those people who are lucky enough
to be riding non-Shimano equipped bicycles, the Hypercracker is a splined tool for removing
cassettes on the road. The tool is placed in the cassette lockring, and the frame provides the
necessary leverage to undo the lockring when the pedals are turned - it works very well, although
isn't recommended for use with aluminium frames as people have reported that the tool can dent the
chainstay)

An alternative is to buy one of the multitude of multi-tools that are on the market. The
Cool-Tool[tm] is the best known (contact: Ison Distribution, 01223 213800) and consists of an
adjustable spanner (narrow enough to adjust cones at a pinch), 4,5,6 and 8mm Allen keys, a chainlink
remover and a 14mm socket. Optional extras include a headset adaptor and a crank extractor.
Alternatively, the Topeak Survival kit contains most of the features of a Cool-Tool[tm] within a
small box which clips to the bike frame. The 'Survival Kit' also contains a puncture repair kit.

OTHER STUFF:

* Two pairs of cycling shorts
* Two or three sets of underwear (ie. undies+socks)
* Spare pair of socks (in case you get seriously soaked!)
* 'Decent clothes' (ie. pair of jeans and a couple of T-shirts)
* Sandals or flip-flops
* Sunblock (!)
* Toiletries
* A space blanket

This little lot should fit nicely in one large pannier, leaving lots space for miscellaneous bits
and pieces in the other pannier. If you're running with two sets of panniers (ie. front and rear),
it's quite easy to fit a sleeping bag into one of the front panniers and keep tools etc. in the
other front pannier (most people I know who have handlebar bags generally use them for keeping a
camera in, plus wallets, keys etc.) For those who are taking a tent, it makes sense to attach it to
the top of your rear rack with bungee cords.

As far as loading goes, try and distribute the weight 60/40 rear/front so that the steering isn't
affected too much. Before you start off, take the bike for a short spin to make sure that nothing
rattles too much and the handling of the bike is OK. If things don't feel right, don't hesitate to
repack things. If you're using a handlebar bag, don't forget that they can have a pretty drastic
affect on steering. Also before you set off, make sure that your brakes are in good working order.
Stopping a laden bike (especially with two sets of panniers) takes longer than stopping an unladen
bike, especially in wet conditions. Be prepared to stop in good time and apply the brakes gently -
it's not impossible to pull a laden bike out of a rear-wheel skid, but it's damned hard work!

16. What is the 'End-To-End'? How do I go about doing it?

The 'End-To-End' is possibly the ultimate UK cycle route, and it is exactly what it says it is, a
trip from one end of Britain to the other (Lands End-John O'Groats, or vice versa) covering, on
average, about 800 miles (1300km). Needless to say, it's a fairly popular charity ride (recently
completed by Phil Liggett and a number of others) and it's also a fairly popular ride for people
attempting to break records of various kinds (the current record is held by Andy Wilkinson, if I
recall), and no doubt riding the length of Britain would make the good basis for a cycling holiday,
either solo or as part of a group.

The 'End to End' isn't administered as a 'proper' cycle route in the strictest sense of the word,
although the CTC do publish their own 'suggested' route (details from them). For members of AUDAX
UK, it's possible to do the run in a number of different formats, ranging from 8 consecutive rides
of 200km to their 'Tourist Award', in which the 1360km must be ridden in less than 2 weeks
(details are published in the AUK Handbook). Most other people just get their maps out and plan
their own route.

There are a number of 'End-To-End' reports on the Web, and if you're planning on doing the ride,
reading such reports can be quite informative, as well as giving a few hints on how to approach such
an undertaking. The URLs of a couple of these reports are given below:

Paul Smee's End-To-End Tour Report End-To-End with Bicycle and Three Others

[NOTE: A Web search for 'John O'Groats' will turn up quite a few End-To-End tour reports, but be
prepared to wade through a bit of information about John O'Groats itself!]

17. How can I go about transporting my bike(s) on my car?

In general, there are two types of bike rack, roof-mounted and tow-bar mounted. A recent thread on
roof-mounted carriers yielded this article. Information of tow-bar mounted carriers is given below.

Michael Hoath ([email hidden]) wrote: "I would suggest Thule. They are better made than anything
else I have ever used or seen. I load mine with a tandem and two solos. No problem.

Re: Bike carrier. I couldn't afford the Thule ones. I suggest you buy the best you can afford
though. Forget the upside down ones. They wreck your bar tape and saddle. They are also difficult
to use if your handlebars are cluttered with rapid fire shifters and computer mounts. Wheel-out
ones are fine. Very secure. But you have to take a wheel out and carry it elsewhere. Wheel in,
upright ones are fine, but beware of cheap ones. Go for something that looks as though the designer
thought about the frame clamp. Also, make sure that the wheel mounting place offers a strap to
secure the wheels.

Halfords do two upright, wheel-in racks (to the best of my knowledge). The more expensive one is
(I'm pretty sure) about 30 ukp. This one offers two frame clamps for round or oval down tubes. The
wheel clamps are strapped. The rack is also very easy to fit. My only doubt is the rivets that fit
the hinged frame clamp to the main part of the rack. I might be inclined to replace these with a
more substantial bolt, washers and self locking nut. Anyway, this is the sort I use at present and
it's fine. Put a strap around the hinged clamp bar to hold it down against the rack when not in use.
Otherwise it jumps about. A note of caution. (Five in fact).

18. Be careful when tightening the frame clamp. Aluminium and other lightweight frame tubes could
easily be crushed.
19. I always secure the bike with two further staps at 45 degrees between the chainstays (rear
horizontal forks) and the roof rack itself. The whole lot becomes more secure.
20. Check the roof loading limit for your car. Bikes on the roof car have a nasty effect
on handling.
21. You'll be surprised how easy it is to forget the bikes are up there and drive under a
low branch.
22. Check your car insurance.

Arno straps. Self locking straps made of something tough. These are excellent tie-down straps. They
sell them in Millets. They sometimes break though.

Failing the roof rack idea, a tow bar mounted rack that supports the bike wheels is very effective.
eg HOBO. I never trusted the strap on rear bike carriers.

The Cyclists' Touring Club can offer good advice if you are a member.

DISCLAIMER: Please note that the information given is based only on my opinions experience, which is
limited. I am NOT an expert and you must satisfy yourself that loads are safe. Don't take my word
for it, I could be wrong. I cannot be held responsible for any action you take as a result of my
opinions given above, they are only offered as help."

Much of the above can also be said for tow-bar mounted racks, although these have some obvious
advantages, notably that bikes strapped on the back of a car won't affect the handling as much as
bikes strapped to the roof, but bear in mind that although you don't have extra height to worry
about, you'll have extra length instead! Also, be aware that bikes mounted on tow-bar carriers are
going to be very susceptible to road-spray, so removing wheels is a wise move.

Both types of cycle carrier are available through most good bike shops. St.John Street Cycles keep a
good range, which also includes a tandem carrier.

James D Annan ([email hidden]) wrote: "Another frequently overlooked method for carrying bikes on
cars is simply to put some roof bars on, pad them, and lie the bike down flat (tying it on of
course). This cuts out the surprisingly common problem of driving under low obstacles that the
standard upright method sometimes has. We manage a tandem on the top of a Nissan Micra this way -
the roof is shorter than the wheelbase so other methods would be difficult."

23. I want to buy a trailer/trailerbike for my child. What is available?

Trailers and trailer-bikes are two methods which allow a child to cycle with their parents. Trailers
are mostly used for carrying toddlers or very small children, whereas trailer-bikes actually allow
the child to pedal along with the parents. For family cycling, trailers/trailerbikes are generally
used in conjunction with tandems, although they can just as easily be fitted to solos.

Regarding trailerbikes, Michael Hoath ([email hidden]) writes:

The most well-known trailerbike is that made by IslaBikes. There are others of older and
newer design.

When buying a trailer bike, there are a number of considerations:

* Method of attachment to parent bike. The ones I have seen attach either by a 4-point rack onto
the usual braze-ons, or onto the parent's seat pillar. The rack type would seem to be favourite,
providing strength and the opportunity to use saddle bags etc. It is important to follow the
setting up instructions provided by the manufacturer to get the position of the pivot right -
otherwise handling can be affected. Islabikes can provide a second mounting frame so parents can
use the trailerbike on more than one bike.

* Wheel size on trailer. Some include a standard 700c wheel. I would favour a smaller wheel with a
wide low pressure tyre. This is more comfortable for the child and facilitates the use of a
smaller frame size.

* Effects on handling. I have heard some people claim the trailer affects handling. Of course it
does but not badly and it's not at all difficult to set it up right.

* Child's pedals and crank length. Much shorter cranks. Pedals with toe clips are important as the
whole stability of your child on the bike depends on feet staying put.

* Gears. A Sturmey-Archer 3-speed. Your child needs to be able to keep up with the pedals on the
flat and climbing. Believe me, you will need the child's help when climbing at times. The
Sturmey provides reliable, low maintenance, effective gears. There is little chance of the chain
jumping off, derailleurs slipping, or anything that might cause the rear wheel to jam. The child
finds the gears easy to manage and can change gear at virtually any time.

* Ability to attach panniers to parent bike. Some manufacturers provide pannier attachments for
their trailerbike mounting rack. In the case of Islabikes, the pannier bit is effective and the
whole thing looks just like an ordinary rack when the trailer id not attached.

* Mudguard attachment on trailer. Make sure that it is possible to fit one.

* Mudguards on parent bike. Fit a rear mudguard and flap. Otherwise you child gets a mouthful of
road-dirt.

* Size range. A small frame with a long seat post and handle bars that move up and forward. This
configuration will be useful from an early age to 9 or
10.

* Child's comfort. The saddles provided are often a bit nasty. Fit something wide and soft,
preferably without a plastic cover (sweaty). Your child will be most comfortable in a fairly
upright riding position. This allows them to look around, hold conversations and avoid the
constant sight of parent's back wheel. Use soft handlebar grips and narrow-ish bars.

* Transportation. Because they come apart, a trailer bike can be transported just as an
ordinary bike.

* Frame material. Usually plain guage steel. This gives a fairly soft ride. 531 is available.

Remember that the child's comfort and enjoyment is of prime importance. There will be extra work for
the parent but it is surprising what the child can contribute. (My son managed to push me several
miles when my bottom bracket jammed). The trailer produces a strong and enthusiastic cyclist.

The above is based purely on my opinions and personal experience.

For more information about both child seats and trailerbikes, two of the biggest manufacturers,
Burley and Rhode Gear, have their own web sites at burley.comburley.comOpen ↗ and
rhodegear.comrhodegear.comOpen ↗, respectively. In addition, the Rhode Gear site also contains information
about their range of car racks.

19. Is there a definitive way of determining correct saddle height?

Generally, an ideal saddle height is one where your legs are almost fully extended at the bottom of
the pedalling stroke. This way, the rider is able to put a more power into his/her pedalling. In
order to adjust your saddle, it helps to either have someone hold the bike for you, or to prop it
against a wall. The following steps are useful:

20. Adjust the saddle height so that your legs are slightly bent at the bottom of the pedalling
stroke (an angle of about 170 degrees between thigh and calf is quite acceptable)

21. Take the bike for a quick spin (a mile or so) - if you're having to move your hips from side to
side as you pedal, the saddle is probably too high. Adjust as appropriate. If you feel any
discomfort, ride home and readjust the saddle (alternatively, take the appropriate tools with
you - a 6mm Allen key is all that is generally necessary)

22. Repeat steps 1 and 2 until the saddle is at a height you find comfortable. You should not be
able to place your feet flat on the floor without straddling the top tube of your bike (if you
can't even do this, your frame is probably too large)

Naturally, you won't get the saddle height right first time, and some fine tuning may be necessary.
If you experience any knee pain, lowering the saddle by about half an inch may solve the problem, as
such pain is often caused by overextension of the leg.

Saddle height isn't the only important parameter when it comes to comfortable riding, the
orientation of the saddle itself is just as important. Both men and women have a large concentration
of nerves in the genital area, and an improperly adjusted saddle can lead to nerve damage (although
this is probably more of a problem for men). Most seatposts allow saddles to be adjusted backwards
and forwards (along the saddle rails) and up and down (the angle of the saddle with respect to the
top tube). Whilst riding, your body weight should be resting on the bones in your pelvis (anyone got
the proper name for them?!), which in turn should be resting on the rear of the saddle - if your
weight is resting on any other area, you'll soon know about it! The saddle should be adjusted so
that your pelvic bones rest on the rear of the saddle. As for up-down orientation, most people will
have their saddles either dead level, or pointing nose down slightly. This is a matter of taste, of
course - personally, I have my saddle adjusted nose downwards slightly, mainly to keep my not
inconsiderable weight off my genitals! Under no circumstances should the nose of the saddle be
pointing upwards, otherwise genital nerve damage is a distinct (not to mention painful) possibility.

For long distance riding, it is not possible to completely eliminate discomfort whilst riding,
although proper saddle setup will delay the onset of such discomfort. Padded cycling shorts are
useful, and can be obtained quite cheaply from nearly all decent bike shops - these shorts are
generally made of Lycra, and should be as tight a fit as possible (men in particular should
wear shorts that don't allow their genitals to move downwards too much). For those who wear
'work' clothes to cycle in, it is possible to buy padded briefs (in both mens and womens fits)
which are designed not only to minimise discomfort but to be worn all day under 'normal'
clothes (it is possible to wear lycra shorts under a pair of jeans, but it gets a bit
uncomfortable in hot weather!)

23. I'm looking to buy a new saddle for my bike, what would you recommend?

One of the most personal aspects of cycling is choice of saddle, and determining whether or not your
backside is comfortable is about the most subjective thing imaginable. Nowadays, saddles can be
split into two different categories: gel saddles and leather saddles.

A gel saddle usually incorporates a layer of gel between the saddle itself and the riders backside,
with the gel conforming to the rider and thus reducing pressure on the more sensitive parts of
his/her anatomy. Leather saddles are what they say they are, made of leather.

Dealing with gel saddles first. In general, they are comfortable, but it is vitally important not to
buy a saddle with a plastic cover if you plan to ride long distances, as sweat will remain in
contact with your body, leading to skin irritation. Most middle or top-end gel saddles have leather
or faux-leather coverings. The San Marco Rolls and Selle Italia Turbo saddles are commonly cited as
relatively inexpensive and comfortable saddles, with the Rolls generally getting the thumbs-up from
AUDAX riders, who tend to be particular about what they sit on! If you're not wanting to spend loads
of money on a saddle, Viscount and Vetta manufacture a wide range of saddles for both men and women
(more on womens saddles later) which are both inexpensive and comfortable.

When people think of leather saddles, they think of Brooks. Indeed, the fact that Brooks have been
making leather saddles since the early days of cycling and are still in business is glowing
testimony to their products. It is perhaps unfortunate that leather saddles, Brooks' in particular,
have a kind of stigma attached to them, and are generally associated with aged cycle tourists. This
is unfortunate, since a well looked-after leather saddle is possibly the most comfortable thing you
can put on a bike. A lot of people are also put off by the myth that a leather saddle needs
'breaking in' - this is purely a subjective thing, and as with any saddle, the more you ride it, the
more you'll get used to it. Brooks saddles are popular with both long-distance riders and cycle
tourists, with the Brooks B17 and B66 being commonly cited as good buys. ATB riders are catered for
with the Brooks Conquest, a sprung version of the B66 which although looking old fashioned, is
incredibly comfortable. Although many Brooks saddles would probably considered too heavy for racing
purposes, a number of manufacturers are producing leather racing saddles, including Brooks
themselves, who a reproducing the Ti-railed Swift.

Because cycling was (is?) viewed as a male-dominated sport, many saddles, like the bikes they are
put on, are designed to conform with the male anatomy, and a great many women find 'ordinary'
saddles quite uncomfortable. Fortunately, a large number of manufacturers produce saddles aimed
directly at women, up to and including full-on racing saddles. Georgina Terry is perhaps the best
known manufacturer of womens saddles, with the advantage that they're designed for the female,
rather than the male, anatomy (the nose of a great many saddles points slightly upwards, which can
cause pressure on the more tender parts of the female anatomy - properly designed womens saddles do
not suffer from this problem). In addition to their standard range, Brooks also manufacture a saddle
aimed at women (the B66 Champion).

24. My chain keeps skipping on my cassette/freewheel - what should I do?

NB. In the following section, the terms cassette and freewheel can be taken to be synonymous.

The commonest cause of chain skip is chain wear, sprocket wear or a combination of the two. This is
a fact of life, and even the best maintained drivetrain will succumb to wear eventually. The
symptoms of this are generally the chain skipping over the cassette under load. In many cases, only
the most frequently used sprockets are affected (usually the smaller ones).

Wear of freewheel sprockets is usually most noticable when a new chain is fitted to a bike, and,
more often than not, a new cassette will have to be bought as well (in some cases, a chain has been
known to 'bed in' to the old cassette, but this increases the rate of wear of both the chain and the
cassette).

Because of the stretching forces that a chain is subjected to, it generally has a shorter life than
other drivetrain components - exact mileage varies due to the type of chain, road conditions etc. In
general, a chain should be binned if it measures more than 12 1/8" over twelve links (a new chain
should measure 12" over twelve links, the distance measured from the centres of the rivets).
Chainrings and sprockets should be replaced when the teeth have a hooked or 'shark tooth'
appearance. Chainring wear is easy to spot, cassette wear less so, and with this in mind, Rohloff
produce a device which allows measurement of how far gone your cassette cogs may (or may not) be.
Unfortunately, the construction of current freehub cassettes, especially Shimano, is not conducive
to replacement of single cogs, although it is possible given the correct equipment)

An equally common, and slightly more tricky to track down, cause of chain skip is a stiff link. This
is a likely cause if you experience problems with a new chain and new freewheel/cassette. Personal
experience has shown that the best way to isolate the stiff link is to slowly turn the pedals by
hand, and the stiff link will generally cause the chain to jump as it passes through the rear
derailleur. Curing this is easily done, with the aid of a chaintool, by ensuring that the rivet in
the offending link is flush with the sideplates of the chain.

It is not possible to completely eliminate wear of drivetrain components (except by not riding the
bike) but a generally accepted method of minimising drivetrain wear, thus saving money on new
cassettes etc., is to run two or three chains in rotation, cleaning and changing them every 500
miles or so. Good chains, eg. the Sachs SC40 (known as the Sedis 'black'😉, are cheap enough to make
this a reasonable course of action, especially if the bike is heavily used.

--
Stevie D \\\\\ ///// Bringing dating agencies to the \\\\\\\__X__///////
common hedgehog since 2001 - "HedgeHugs" ___\\\\\\\'/
\'///////_____________________________________________

"Richard Bates" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

I think a regular welcome post explaining who we are, what urc is about could be what is required.
Perhaps also included in the welcome post could be stuff about what we see to be
courteous/discourteous, for example frequency of For Sale ads, binaries, TdF spoilers,
crossposting to uk.tosspot, HTML

That was the kind of thing I had in mind. Big FAQs won't get read, but any newbie who hasn't heard
of Sh3ld0n's site needs to know of its existence ASAP.

Quoted message said:

Much of what goes on in urc starts with somebody posting a question rather than a statement. I
think that an FAQ could quite possibly kill off some of the threads which keep urc alive.

I wouldn't think so. My expectation would be that the questions would just come slightly further
along the line. The "which bike" question can never be answered in a FAQ, after all. But we can hope
to remind people to do a bit of background reading before making any statement relating to
polystyrene foam deflector beanies ;-)

--
Guy
===

WARNING: may contain traces of irony. Contents may settle after posting.
chapmancentral.comchapmancentral.comOpen ↗

Just zis Guy said:

Anyone know of a reliable mail-to-news service? I could set up a scheduled mailing of the
welcome/FAQ.

How's your perl? Net::NNTP is quite a nice, friendly (despite being written in perl) module. You
should be able to write an autoposter quite quickly which can then be run by cron.

Regards,

-david

David Nutter <[email hidden]> wrote:
:> Anyone know of a reliable mail-to-news service? I could set up a scheduled mailing of the
:> welcome/FAQ.

: How's your perl? Net::NNTP is quite a nice, friendly (despite being written in perl) module. You
: should be able to write an autoposter quite quickly which can then be run by cron.

I can both do this and set up the cron job to run it if you can't.

Arthur

(wafflyDIRTYcatLITTERhcsBOX) said:

AOL won't download the post, Guy, as it's too large. Now I know people can moan about AOL, but it's
not exactly an ISP that's only got a few subscribers :-)

Would that be the same ISP that caused me to receive four identical mails, entitled Cycling in
Paris, from you this morning? ;-)

In no way am I prepared accept that my altering Eudora's settings is to blame.

James

--
"Sorry mate, I didn't see you" is not a satisfactory excuse.

(wafflyDIRTYcatLITTERhcsBOX) said:

Quoted message said:

Would that be the same ISP that caused me to receive four identical mails, entitled Cycling in
Paris, from you this morning? ;-)

If you got four *identical* in content - I apologise - that shouldn't have happened. I shall
investigate.

No matter, you young AOL user, you. I came across the "what a marvellous time we all had in France"
comments elsewhere in this NG and mailed them to myself.

James

--
"Sorry mate, I didn't see you" is not a satisfactory excuse.

Just zis Guy said:

Anyone know of a reliable mail-to-news service? I could set up a scheduled mailing of the
welcome/FAQ.

Demon have one. Pop a toe into demon.service and ask there - it's the last hangout of those
who use it.
--
The desire of knowledge, like the thirst of riches, increases ever with the acquisition of it.
Laurence Stern Steph Peters delete invalid from [email hidden] Tatting, lace &
stitching page <sandbenders.demon.co.ukindex.htmOpen ↗