Cycling Equipment · Public discussion

External bearings

Started by Sandy · · Last activity · 48 posts · 1,172 views

Thread navigation

Jump through the discussion

Go to the original post, the replies on this page, or the latest preserved contribution.

Thread details

What we know about this thread

Original section
Cycling Equipment
Published
28 July 2007
Last activity
14 August 2007
Original author
Sandy
Posts
48
Discussion status
Public discussion
Total views
1,172
Views / 30 days
0

The navigation and discussion metadata provide context. Posts remain in their original chronological order.

Showing posts 41–48 of 48
Posts remain in their original chronological order.

Text size
  1. Sandy said:

    And, can someone offer a grade, size and good manufacturer reference for the
    bearings?

    To revive this thread and zoom in on this question, I found this
    manufacturer's site:

    http://www.vxb.com/page/bearings/PROD/CeramicBallBearings/Kit7611

    Again, the size of the bearing for FSA Mega Exo is 25mm x 37mm x 7mm,
    identified as a 6805 cartridge.

    Appropriate to use on any bike in which the bottom bracket might get
    wet, the best cartridge choice would be 6805-2RS: the 2RS referring
    to two rubber seals, one on each side of the cartridge, which may
    easily be removed in order to clean and re-lube the bearings. In
    contrast, a 6805-ZZ cartridge has two metal shields which cannot be
    reinstalled if pried off, so that if moisture seeps into the bearings,
    you've got an insurmountable problem. Other configurations, as you
    can see, have metal seals with snap ring, a rubber or metal seal on
    one side of the cartridge only, or no covers, which would not be
    recommended.

    As to the bearings themselves, there are a number of choices, the
    higher the quality, the higher the price: Full ceramic, ceramic
    bearings stainless enclosures ABEC 7 or ABEC 3; and chrome steel no
    ABEC rating.

    I'm assuming that the basic chrome steel covers/bearings @ $7.95/ea is
    what you get OEM from FSA.

    The question is whether or not it is cost effective to spend the extra
    $$ on the higher quality bearings (bb, hub, headset): is there ANY
    measurable increase in performance; if so how much; and where is the
    line drawn? In the in-line speed skating world, where your feet
    interface very directly with your wheels, the same debate prevails.

    One thing seems fairly clear to me: it does NOT seem cost effective
    to buy ANY bearings from a retailer who marks up the cost of what
    anybody can buy directly from the manufacturer, simply by putting
    their name on them (e.g. Phil Wood).

  2. Sandy said:

    Dans le message denews:[email hidden],
    steve <[email hidden]> a réfléchi, et puis a déclaré :

    Quoted message said:

    On Jul 28, 8:27 am, Qui si parla Campagnolo <[email hidden]>

    Quoted message said:

    On Jul 28, 3:50 am, "Sandy" <[email hidden]> wrote:

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    > Just to start someone counting, adding to anecdotal history.
    > FSA SLK MegaExo - someone put marbles in the BB.
    > Lasted less than 4000km.
    > Since it's there, what is the best cure?
    > Replacing the bearings in the casings, or replacing the cup-bearing
    > assembly.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Phil Wood makes some great replacement bearings for these and other
    external cups. Long lastingf, well made, unlike it seems the FSA
    bearings.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    > And, can someone offer a grade, size and good manufacturer
    > reference for the bearings?

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    > Thanks in advance.
    > --
    > Sandy
    > Verneuil-sur-Seine
    > *******

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    > La vie, c'est comme une bicyclette,
    > il faut avancer pour ne pas perdre l'équilibre.
    > -- Einstein, A.- Hide quoted text -

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    - Show quoted text -

    Quoted message said:

    I'll second that. Phil will be your best choice when it comes to
    durability. Make sure you keep the plastic covers since phil only
    supplies the bearings.

    Quoted message said:

    steve

    Thanks, both of you, but I wasn't aware that Phil made the bearings, or does
    he?
    He doesn't get them from a manufacturer?
    Ordering from "Phil" may not be the ideal thing from where I sit.
    Any other leads?
    --
    Bonne route !

    Sandy
    Verneuil-sur-Seine FR- Hide quoted text -

    - Show quoted text -

    is phil anti-gaul?

  3. datakoll said:
    Sandy said:

    Dans le message denews:[email hidden],
    steve <[email hidden]> a réfléchi, et puis a déclaré :

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    On Jul 28, 8:27 am, Qui si parla Campagnolo <[email hidden]>
    wrote:
    > On Jul 28, 3:50 am, "Sandy" <[email hidden]> wrote:

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    >> Just to start someone counting, adding to anecdotal history.
    >> FSA SLK MegaExo - someone put marbles in the BB.
    >> Lasted less than 4000km.
    >> Since it's there, what is the best cure?
    >> Replacing the bearings in the casings, or replacing the cup-bearing
    >> assembly.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    > Phil Wood makes some great replacement bearings for these and other
    > external cups. Long lastingf, well made, unlike it seems the FSA
    > bearings.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    >> And, can someone offer a grade, size and good manufacturer
    >> reference for the bearings?

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    >> Thanks in advance.
    >> --
    >> Sandy
    >> Verneuil-sur-Seine
    >> *******

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    >> La vie, c'est comme une bicyclette,
    >> il faut avancer pour ne pas perdre l'équilibre.
    >> -- Einstein, A.- Hide quoted text -

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    > - Show quoted text -

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    I'll second that. Phil will be your best choice when it comes to
    durability. Make sure you keep the plastic covers since phil only
    supplies the bearings.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    steve

    Quoted message said:

    Thanks, both of you, but I wasn't aware that Phil made the bearings, ordoes
    he?
    He doesn't get them from a manufacturer?
    Ordering from "Phil" may not be the ideal thing from where I sit.
    Any other leads?
    --
    Bonne route !

    Quoted message said:

    Sandy
    Verneuil-sur-Seine FR- Hide quoted text -

    Quoted message said:

    - Show quoted text -

    is phil anti-gaul?

    Looking at their prices (e.g., bearings, grease, etc.), it's clear
    they have quite a bit of gall.

  4. Doug Taylor wrote:
    <snip for clarity>

    Quoted message said:

    One thing seems fairly clear to me: it does NOT seem cost effective
    to buy ANY bearings from a retailer who marks up the cost of what
    anybody can buy directly from the manufacturer, simply by putting
    their name on them (e.g. Phil Wood).

    pw don't even do that!

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/38636024@N00/1076434093/

  5. jim beam said:

    Doug Taylor wrote:

    <snip for clarity>

    Quoted message said:

    One thing seems fairly clear to me: it does NOT seem cost effective
    to buy ANY bearings from a retailer who marks up the cost of what
    anybody can buy directly from the manufacturer, simply by putting
    their name on them (e.g. Phil Wood).

    pw don't even do that!

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/38636024@N00/1076434093/

    Hey, at least they re-package the marine grease and chainsaw oil in
    cute 'lil Official Phil Green containers!

  6. Ozark Bicycle said:
    jim beam said:

    Doug Taylor wrote:

    <snip for clarity>

    Quoted message said:

    One thing seems fairly clear to me: it does NOT seem cost effective
    to buy ANY bearings from a retailer who marks up the cost of what
    anybody can buy directly from the manufacturer, simply by putting
    their name on them (e.g. Phil Wood).


    pw don't even do that!

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/38636024@N00/1076434093/

    Hey, at least they re-package the marine grease and chainsaw oil in
    cute 'lil Official Phil Green containers!

    yeah, but

    1. it's not like he's selling garbage - it's high quality.
    2. bless his little cotton socks for identifying a niche in the market
    and filling it.

  7. jim beam said:
    Ozark Bicycle said:
    jim beam said:

    Doug Taylor wrote:

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    <snip for clarity>

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    > One thing seems fairly clear to me: it does NOT seem cost effective
    > to buy ANY bearings from a retailer who marks up the cost of what
    > anybody can buy directly from the manufacturer, simply by putting
    > their name on them (e.g. Phil Wood).
    pw don't even do that!

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/38636024@N00/1076434093/

    Quoted message said:

    Hey, at least they re-package the marine grease and chainsaw oil in
    cute 'lil Official Phil Green containers!

    yeah, but

    1. it's not like he's selling garbage - it's high quality.

    True, overpriced but good.

    Quoted message said:

    2. bless his little cotton socks for identifying a niche in the market
    and filling it.-

    Were the cotton socks green, too?

  8. Doug Taylor said:
    Quoted message said:

    I think FSA was having some customer problems with crankarm loosening/
    creaking even with a properly prepped ( to 68 mm) shell and thereby
    decided to rev their install procedure. Your issue is binding of
    bearings due to (IMO) too wide a bb shell, not just a crank that won't
    stay tight.

    I would like you to, if you would, get a decent set of calipers and
    measure your bb shell. Bet it's over.

    I read the FSA FAQ after reading this, and have to concede that this
    sounds plausible. Doh!

    I'll have to take those mofos off AGAIN and measure the freaking
    thing. What pain in the ass!

    Follow up:

    Removed the cups (AGAIN); measured bb shell = 68 mm. So that was not
    my problem.

    This from the FSA website FAQ:

    http://www.fullspeedahead.com/fly.aspx?layout=tech&cid=79

    Quoted post said:

    Our Mega Exo crank/BB system utilizes two small washers that
    fit over the bottom bracket spindle and sit between the crank arms and
    the outer bearing face of the Mega Exo bottom bracket. There is one
    for each crank arm. There are several reasons for these washers, which
    include the reduction of noise as well as achieving correct bearing
    adjustment.

    Until December of 2004 FSA used a solid rubber O-Ring. Starting in
    approx December of 2004 we started to use a rubber coated metal
    washer/O-Ring. When using the new rubber coated metal washer the
    ‘metal side’ of the washer should face the crank arm. If necessary to
    achieve correct bearing adjustment you may use two of these washers on
    the left crank arm. When using two washers, they should be oriented
    metal side to rubber side.

    I purchased from FSA extra washers, and installed 1 on the right and 2
    on the left crank arm. Voila! Crank bold tight, no more bearing
    binding. It was that simple, and hard to believe that such a
    miniscule adjustment could make such a difference. I also, however,
    prepped the splines with Locktite 641 as recommended in the FSA
    installation manual - it contributes to acheiving a firmly bound crank
    with zero bearing binding.

Active in the last 60 minutes

Active in this thread

0 users · 0 guests ·0 bots ·0 total

No signed-in users are active right now.

No known search crawlers active right now.