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EBC disk brake opinions

Started by Duncan · · Last activity · 7 posts · 1,036 views

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Mountain Bikes
Published
12 September 2003
Last activity
16 September 2003
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Duncan
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  1. Hi, I have a bike with Avid cable pull disk brakes. I think they came off a 2000 Giant ATX 890. The
    OEM pads performed perfectly and wore acceptably.

    The other day I replaced them with XC EBC pads, the front lasted 12 km and was down to the metal. I
    got a free replacement but the same thing happened again, it was from a completely different batch
    as it had a redesigned backing plate. I had a 12 Enduro race the next day so my only option was to
    go back to the OEMs. They still worked perfectly but are within a bees [censored] of the metal.

    I haven't had a chance to get back to the shop yet but wanted to do some research before I did.

    Has this happened to anyone else? Did you find out why?

    AFAIK the rotors are good and straight, with the wheel spinning I can pinch the rotor without
    shredding my skin.

    The calipers are straight, as evidenced by the wear and stopping power of the OEM pads. The Caliper
    was set with the necesary 1/3 2/3 spacing on each side.

    The EBC pads wore diagonaly but that was due to them wearing to fast to adjust the stationary
    pad. (the first and second set wore the right and left pads down respectively without affecting
    the other).

    The dead pad looked extremely pitted as if material was coming off in chunks.

    I have a friend who is a 'brake pad engineer' for bendix who says even with a totaly screwed
    caliper/rotor a pad should not do this (on a car anyway).

    Cheers, Duncan.

  2. Duncan said:

    Hi, I have a bike with Avid cable pull disk brakes. I think they came off a 2000 Giant ATX 890.
    The OEM pads performed perfectly and wore acceptably.

    The other day I replaced them with XC EBC pads, the front lasted 12 km and was down to the metal.
    I got a free replacement but the same thing happened again, it was from a completely different
    batch as it had a redesigned backing plate. I had a 12 Enduro race the next day so my only option
    was to go back to the OEMs. They still worked perfectly but are within a bees [censored] of the metal.

    I haven't had a chance to get back to the shop yet but wanted to do some research before I did.

    Has this happened to anyone else? Did you find out why?

    AFAIK the rotors are good and straight, with the wheel spinning I can pinch the rotor without
    shredding my skin.

    The calipers are straight, as evidenced by the wear and stopping power of the OEM pads. The
    Caliper was set with the necesary 1/3 2/3 spacing on each side.

    The EBC pads wore diagonaly but that was due to them wearing to fast to adjust the stationary
    pad. (the first and second set wore the right and left pads down respectively without affecting
    the other).

    The dead pad looked extremely pitted as if material was coming off in chunks.

    I have a friend who is a 'brake pad engineer' for bendix who says even with a totaly screwed
    caliper/rotor a pad should not do this (on a car anyway).

    Been using EBC on my Hayes Mechanicals for a couple of years. Zero problems (except with the gold --
    which squeel at the drop of a hat and don't stop very well). You didn't say which pad (red, green,
    or gold). The red don't wear as long as the green and as far as I could tell in my riding, all you
    get is slightly better fade resistance -- but I've only really seen the difference on long steep
    road descents in the mountains when I come up on a slow moving car 🙂.

    I've always had my pads last more than a season -- and I ride a lot. Except when they get bad oil /
    grease contamination, and that's not EBC's fault!

    In comparing the EBC green to Hayes pads, they both last too long to get a comparison there. The
    EBC seem a little more resistant to squeel and oil contamination, but fade slightly more than the
    Hayes on long steep descents or where I need to ride my brakes -- but not enough to make me worry
    about being able to stop. I've swapped pads mid ride just to get a better comparison (they're that
    close 🙂).

    David

  3. Duncan <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    "]news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    Hi, I have a bike with Avid cable pull disk brakes. I think they came off a 2000 Giant ATX 890.
    The OEM pads performed perfectly and wore acceptably.

    The other day I replaced them with XC EBC pads, the front lasted 12 km and was down to the metal.
    I got a free replacement but the same thing happened again, it was from a completely different
    batch as it had a redesigned backing plate. I had a 12 Enduro race the next day so my only option
    was to go back to the OEMs. They still worked perfectly but are within a bees [censored] of the metal.

    I haven't had a chance to get back to the shop yet but wanted to do some research before I did.

    Has this happened to anyone else? Did you find out why?

    AFAIK the rotors are good and straight, with the wheel spinning I can pinch the rotor without
    shredding my skin.

    The calipers are straight, as evidenced by the wear and stopping power of the OEM pads. The
    Caliper was set with the necesary 1/3 2/3 spacing on each side.

    The EBC pads wore diagonaly but that was due to them wearing to fast to adjust the stationary
    pad. (the first and second set wore the right and left pads down respectively without affecting
    the other).

    The dead pad looked extremely pitted as if material was coming off in chunks.

    I have a friend who is a 'brake pad engineer' for bendix who says even with a totaly screwed
    caliper/rotor a pad should not do this (on a car anyway).

    I've heard of EBC pads breaking up on cars. Don't see why a similar friction material shouldn't do
    it on a bike.

  4. "Duncan" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    "]news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    Hi, I have a bike with Avid cable pull disk brakes. I think they came off a 2000 Giant ATX 890.
    The OEM pads performed perfectly and wore acceptably.

    The other day I replaced them with XC EBC pads, the front lasted 12 km and was down to the metal.
    I got a free replacement but the same thing happened again, it was from a completely different
    batch as it had a redesigned backing plate. I had a 12 Enduro race the next day so my only option
    was to go back to the OEMs. They still worked perfectly but are within a bees [censored] of the metal.


    <snip>

    I've had problems with brand new pads getting wet & muddy and sloughing away really fast like you
    describe. Someone posted recently about a "glaze" being built up on the pad surface that protects
    it. I don't know about that, but there is the usual claim that pads need to 'wear in' with 20 or so
    hard stops before the performance is any good. Maybe that's what it is? Maybe the 'glaze' is needed
    in part to prevent water having it's wicked way with delicate new braking surfaces.
    --
    Westie

  5. Westie <[email hidden]> wrote in message "]news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:


    "Duncan" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    "]news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    Hi, I have a bike with Avid cable pull disk brakes. I think they came off a 2000 Giant ATX 890.
    The OEM pads performed perfectly and wore acceptably.

    The other day I replaced them with XC EBC pads, the front lasted 12 km and was down to the
    metal. I got a free replacement but the same thing happened again, it was from a completely
    different batch as it had a redesigned backing plate. I had a 12 Enduro race the next day so my
    only option was to go back to the OEMs. They still worked perfectly but are within a bees [censored]
    of the metal.


    <snip>

    I've had problems with brand new pads getting wet & muddy and sloughing


    away

    Quoted message said:

    really fast like you describe. Someone posted recently about a "glaze" being built up on the pad
    surface that protects it. I don't know about that, but there is the usual claim that pads need to
    'wear in' with 20 or so hard stops before the


    performance

    Quoted message said:

    is any good. Maybe that's what it is? Maybe the 'glaze' is needed in


    part

    Quoted message said:

    to prevent water having it's wicked way with delicate new braking


    surfaces.

    Pad glaze is a bad thing - that's what stops 'em from stopping you.

    Never had any problem with my disc pads wearing fast, but they take a helluva lot more than 20 hard
    stops to bed in, even with the use of wet mud (which works wonders, BTW).

    Shaun aRe bedding in a new set right now so I can stop if I need to coming down off Snowdon,
    heheheheh........

  6. Shaun Rimmer said:

    Shaun aRe bedding in a new set right now so I can stop if I need to coming down off Snowdon,
    heheheheh........

    I'll be bedding mine in on the way down. Wheeeeeeee...

    --
    a.m-b FAQ: t-online.deambfaq.htm

    b.bmx FAQ: t-online.debmx faq.htm

  7. bomba <[email hidden]> wrote in message "]news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:
    Shaun Rimmer said:

    Shaun aRe bedding in a new set right now so I can stop if I need to


    coming

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    down off Snowdon, heheheheh........

    I'll be bedding mine in on the way down. Wheeeeeeee...

    Lunarchick.

    Shaun aRe - Mine is all but done now - near instant one fingered stoppies from 30 mph are
    mine again"

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