E.R. DK Iron Cross Pedals.

Dave W said:

Finally got around to adding these puppies to my rig....

pricepoint.comproduct1031.htmlOpen ↗

and let me just say, they rock. Very grippy, lightweight, sealed bearings....

I'm surprised you said 'lightweight'. I realise that they're the magnesium versions, but the
originals weighed a ton. The reason for this is the extra material between the surfaces to prevent
breakage when the pedal hits coping - not something particularly needed in mtb 🙂

Quoted message said:

one drawback are the non-removable pins, but they seem to be installed very firmly. Hopefully
they'll hold up.

Did they not come with a spare set of pins? Even with pedals like this, there's often a bag with
some replacements that can just be banged in with a hammer.

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bomba said:

Dave W said:

Finally got around to adding these puppies to my rig....

pricepoint.comproduct1031.htmlOpen ↗

and let me just say, they rock. Very grippy, lightweight, sealed bearings....

I'm surprised you said 'lightweight'. I realise that they're the magnesium versions, but the
originals weighed a ton.

What were the originals made of, alum, steel? Granted they aren't as light as the POS I took off the
bike. But light enough for my application. I was looking for a flat that was a little more
beefier....

The reason for

Quoted message said:

this is the extra material between the surfaces to prevent breakage when the pedal hits coping -
not something particularly needed in mtb 🙂

I rarely have "pedal to coping" placement issues. But when I do, better the pedal taking the hit
then the bottom of my foot. I would think technique plays a large part in the above scenario.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

one drawback are the non-removable pins, but they seem to be installed very firmly. Hopefully
they'll hold up.

Did they not come with a spare set of pins? Even with pedals like this, there's often a bag with
some replacements that can just be banged in with a hammer.

Well realistically, you begin with a certain diameter hole, slam the original pins in, which would
of course be of a slightly larger diameter than said hole, now if it "worked" itself out, said hole
would probably be rounded to a slightly larger than began with diameter. This would mean you would
have to smack a slightly larger than original pin back in, no? And actually, the ones that can be
accessed THROUGH the pedal openings have tiny phillips head screws holding them in from the
underside. Although there are but a few per side that can be accessed like this. I think a threaded
"set screw" design would be much better in this application, but hey, for 40.00 bucks they were
worth a shot.

Dave (excellent query Bomba)

hey talking about mountain bikes in a mountain bike newsgroup.....

well whoda thunk it?

Dave W wrote in message ...

Quoted message said:

bomba said:

Dave W said:

Finally got around to adding these puppies to my rig....

pricepoint.comproduct1031.htmlOpen ↗

and let me just say, they rock. Very grippy, lightweight, sealed bearings....

I'm surprised you said 'lightweight'. I realise that they're the magnesium versions, but the
originals weighed a ton.

What were the originals made of, alum, steel? Granted they aren't as light as the POS I took off
the bike. But light enough for my application. I was looking for a flat that was a little more
beefier....

The reason for

Quoted message said:

this is the extra material between the surfaces to prevent breakage when the pedal hits coping -
not something particularly needed in mtb 🙂

I rarely have "pedal to coping" placement issues. But when I do, better the pedal taking the hit
then the bottom of my foot. I would think technique plays a large part in the above scenario.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

one drawback are the non-removable pins, but they seem to be installed very firmly. Hopefully
they'll hold up.

Did they not come with a spare set of pins? Even with pedals like this, there's often a bag with
some replacements that can just be banged in with a hammer.

Well realistically, you begin with a certain diameter hole, slam the original pins in, which would
of course be of a slightly larger diameter than said hole, now if it "worked" itself out, said hole
would probably be rounded to a slightly larger than began with diameter. This would mean you would
have to smack a slightly larger than original pin back in, no? And actually, the ones that can be
accessed THROUGH the pedal openings have tiny phillips head screws holding them in from the
underside. Although there are but a few per side that can be accessed like this. I think a threaded
"set screw" design would be much better in this application, but hey, for 40.00 bucks they were
worth a shot.

Dave (excellent query Bomba)

hey talking about mountain bikes in a mountain bike newsgroup.....

well whoda thunk it?

Err well no, actually you're talking about a BMX pedal, designed as Bomba pointed out, to cope with
smacking your pedal when attempting to grind / stall on a coping etc.

Still no harm in using them on an mtb, if you smack you're pedals a lot on rocks etc then I guess
they will work for that too. I don't want to discourage anyone who shuns the devils pedals.........

Steve E.

spademan o---)* said:

Dave W wrote in message ...

Quoted message said:

bomba said:

Dave W wrote:
> Finally got around to adding these puppies to my rig....
>
> pricepoint.comproduct1031.htmlOpen ↗
>
> and let me just say, they rock. Very grippy, lightweight, sealed bearings....

I'm surprised you said 'lightweight'. I realise that they're the magnesium versions, but the
originals weighed a ton.

What were the originals made of, alum, steel? Granted they aren't as light as the POS I took off
the bike. But light enough for my application. I was looking for a flat that was a little more
beefier....

The reason for

Quoted message said:

this is the extra material between the surfaces to prevent breakage when the pedal hits coping -
not something particularly needed in mtb 🙂

I rarely have "pedal to coping" placement issues. But when I do, better the pedal taking the hit
then the bottom of my foot. I would think technique plays a large part in the above scenario.

Quoted message said:

> one drawback are the non-removable pins, but they seem to be installed very firmly. Hopefully
> they'll hold up.

Did they not come with a spare set of pins? Even with pedals like this, there's often a bag with
some replacements that can just be banged in with a hammer.

Well realistically, you begin with a certain diameter hole, slam the original pins in, which would
of course be of a slightly larger diameter than said hole, now if it "worked" itself out, said
hole would probably be rounded to a slightly larger than began with diameter. This would mean you
would have to smack a slightly larger than original pin back in, no? And actually, the ones that
can be accessed THROUGH the pedal openings have tiny phillips head screws holding them in from the
underside. Although there are but a few per side that can be accessed like this. I think a
threaded "set screw" design would be much better in this application, but hey, for 40.00 bucks
they were worth a shot.

Dave (excellent query Bomba)

hey talking about mountain bikes in a mountain bike newsgroup.....

well whoda thunk it?

Err well no, actually you're talking about a BMX pedal, designed as Bomba pointed out, to cope with
smacking your pedal when attempting to grind / stall on a coping etc.

Good point. I stand corrected. Guess I'm lending more credibility to the "adult-BMX" designation I
coined last year....

but i like the bail factor associated with flats....

Quoted message said:

Still no harm in using them on an mtb, if you smack you're pedals a lot on rocks etc then I guess
they will work for that too. I don't want to discourage anyone who shuns the devils pedals.........

Steve E.

Works pretty good so far. And what are the devils pedals? clipless? or worse....toeclips?

Dave (SATAN? TELL HIM TO CALL BACK LATER...)

Dave W said:

Quoted message said:

I'm surprised you said 'lightweight'. I realise that they're the magnesium versions, but the
originals weighed a ton.

What were the originals made of, alum, steel?

Alu.

Granted they aren't as

Quoted message said:

light as the POS I took off the bike. But light enough for my application. I was looking for a
flat that was a little more beefier....

Furry muff.

Quoted message said:

The reason for

Quoted message said:

this is the extra material between the surfaces to prevent breakage when the pedal hits coping -
not something particularly needed in mtb 🙂

I rarely have "pedal to coping" placement issues. But when I do, better the pedal taking the hit
then the bottom of my foot.

You ride bmx?

I would

Quoted message said:

think technique plays a large part in the above scenario.

A bit, but usually it's the rear peg slipping off in feeble grinds.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Did they not come with a spare set of pins? Even with pedals like this, there's often a bag with
some replacements that can just be banged in with a hammer.

Well realistically, you begin with a certain diameter hole, slam the original pins in, which would
of course be of a slightly larger diameter than said hole, now if it "worked" itself out, said
hole would probably be rounded to a slightly larger than began with diameter. This would mean you
would have to smack a slightly larger than original pin back in, no?

Yep. The replacement pins I got with my Primo Super Tenderisers are slightly larger at the bottom,
and knurled too. I figure by the time you've gone through the first batch of replacements, it will
be time to replace the pedal anyway.

And actually, the ones that can be

Quoted message said:

accessed THROUGH the pedal openings have tiny phillips head screws holding them in from the
underside. Although there are but a few per side that can be accessed like this. I think a
threaded "set screw" design would be much better in this application, but hey, for 40.00 bucks
they were worth a shot.

I will not moan about US prices. I will not moan about US prices. I will not moan about US prices. I
will not moan about US prices. I will not moan about US prices.

Quoted message said:

Dave (excellent query Bomba)

hey talking about mountain bikes in a mountain bike newsgroup.....

well whoda thunk it?

Bizarre...

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bomba said:

Dave W said:

Quoted message said:

I'm surprised you said 'lightweight'. I realise that they're the magnesium versions, but the
originals weighed a ton.

What were the originals made of, alum, steel?

Alu.

Granted they aren't as

Quoted message said:

light as the POS I took off the bike. But light enough for my application. I was looking for a
flat that was a little more beefier....

Furry muff.

yeah, but I like em shaved!

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

The reason for

Quoted message said:

this is the extra material between the surfaces to prevent breakage when the pedal hits coping -
not something particularly needed in mtb 🙂

I rarely have "pedal to coping" placement issues. But when I do, better the pedal taking the hit
then the bottom of my foot.

You ride bmx?

don't we all? Seriously, not like an indoor park or anything. All my riding is out doors, and for
pure out jumping, ya can't go wrong riding a bmx course can ya? Grinding, and stalls are what I used
to do on my skateboard, my bike traveled a little bit further, and was expected to do much more than
silly park tricks!

Quoted message said:

I would

Quoted message said:

think technique plays a large part in the above scenario.

A bit, but usually it's the rear peg slipping off in feeble grinds.

again more silly park tricks that I feel were better served on my

sometimes.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Did they not come with a spare set of pins? Even with pedals like this, there's often a bag with
some replacements that can just be banged in with a hammer.

Well realistically, you begin with a certain diameter hole, slam the original pins in, which
would of course be of a slightly larger diameter than said hole, now if it "worked" itself out,
said hole would probably be rounded to a slightly larger than began with diameter. This would
mean you would have to smack a slightly larger than original pin back in, no?

Yep. The replacement pins I got with my Primo Super Tenderisers are slightly larger at the bottom,
and knurled too. I figure by the time you've gone through the first batch of replacements, it will
be time to replace the pedal anyway.

there ya go then. This was my first thought after checking em' out for the first time. I bet I can
find a needle roller bearing I could use in the event I need to replace. Besides almost 3 years on
my previous POS Wellgos was enough.

Quoted message said:

And actually, the ones that can be

Quoted message said:

accessed THROUGH the pedal openings have tiny phillips head screws holding them in from the
underside. Although there are but a few per side that can be accessed like this. I think a
threaded "set screw" design would be much better in this application, but hey, for 40.00 bucks
they were worth a shot.

I will not moan about US prices. I will not moan about US prices. I will not moan about US prices.
I will not moan about US prices. I will not moan about US prices.

What cha talking bout Wilis?

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Dave (excellent query Bomba)

hey talking about mountain bikes in a mountain bike newsgroup.....

well whoda thunk it?

Bizarre...

What talking about mtb related subjects, or just talking about them
w/ME?

Dave

Quoted message said:

Come to the dark side, Steve. You know it to be your destiny }😉

Quoted message said:

Works pretty good so far. And what are the devils pedals? clipless? or worse....toeclips?

Clipless

Quoted message said:

Steve, like myself has a background in bmx. Tragically for Steve, he can not let go of his roots
and take advantage of clipless, like the rest of the mtb community.

Oi! I've served my time, honest guv. Started off with a set of onza H.O.'s. They were fantastic. For
about a week. Then my foot started to come flying off an unexpected times and trying to clip back in
was 'experimental'. Moved to a set of the early XT's which weighed a ton, and refused to unclip
after they saw a bit of mud. They might have been alright for a sourthern softy but show 'em some
proper Northern weather and they gave up quicker than a Frenchman at a fireworks party. After this I
bought some Time ATAC's which compared to the previous two were the dogs danglies. I got on pretty
well with these until I realised that I wasn't having as much fun on my MTB as I did on my BMX, I
felt restricted by the pedals and reluctant to trust in something mechanical to hold my feet in when
I would rather rely on technique. So now I run flat pedals on all my bikes, I can wear whatever
shoes I like and know that if something goes fubar my ankle won't be snapped in two...

but hey, I'm a reasonable man, you're entitled to hold an incorrect opinion if you want..

Steve E.

Quoted message said:

(Incidentally, clipless has no business in bmx.)

I can't believe people even consider racing BMX with clipless pedals, its just Wrong.

spademan o---)* said:

Quoted message said:

Steve, like myself has a background in bmx. Tragically for Steve, he can not let go of his roots
and take advantage of clipless, like the rest of the mtb community.

Oi! I've served my time, honest guv. Started off with a set of onza H.O.'s. They were fantastic.
For about a week. Then my foot started to come flying off an unexpected times and trying to clip
back in was 'experimental'.

Onza HO's - another addition to the [censored] parts museum. Elastomer springs? Pfft.

Moved

Quoted message said:

to a set of the early XT's which weighed a ton, and refused to unclip after they saw a bit of mud.
They might have been alright for a sourthern softy but show 'em some proper Northern weather and
they gave up quicker than a Frenchman at a fireworks party.

Hehe - nice metaphor. Double action, weren't they? I had the cheaper ones, and I seem to remember
them being ok. All pedals clog anyway.

After this I bought some Time ATAC's which

Quoted message said:

compared to the previous two were the dogs danglies. I got on pretty well with these until I
realised that I wasn't having as much fun on my MTB as I did on my BMX, I felt restricted by the
pedals and reluctant to trust in something mechanical to hold my feet in when I would rather rely
on technique.

I can see why that might be an issue for dh racing, but surely the advantages outweigh the
disadvantages for normal trails riding. Still each to their own...

So now I run flat pedals on all my bikes, I can wear whatever

Quoted message said:

shoes I like and know that if something goes fubar my ankle won't be snapped in two...

Now you're just exaggerating.

Quoted message said:

but hey, I'm a reasonable man, you're entitled to hold an incorrect opinion if you want..

Ok 🙂

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bomba <[email hidden]> wrote in message "]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

spademan o---[)* wrote:

Quoted message said:

Moved

Quoted message said:

to a set of the early XT's which weighed a ton, and refused to unclip

after

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

they saw a bit of mud. They might have been alright for a sourthern

softy

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

but show 'em some proper Northern weather and they gave up quicker than

a

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Frenchman at a fireworks party.

Hehe - nice metaphor.

heh - I agree....

Quoted message said:

So now I run flat pedals on all my bikes, I can wear whatever

Quoted message said:

shoes I like and know that if something goes fubar my ankle won't be

snapped

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

in two...

Now you're just exaggerating.

You'd think! Shortly after I started hanging here, a guy posted a picture of what happened to his
shin bone when he wiped out and his foot stayed clipped
in. There was a huge spiral fracture nearly the whole length of it. The picture was of his x-ray,
and it showed the whole mess, including thew two plates and many screws they'd put him back
together with.

Just thought I'd mention that ',;~}

Shaun aRe