I just put a new ultegra cassette and dura ace chain on my bike and now it skips over the second to the smallest cog in both directions. I fiddled with the adjusting barrel but didn't seem to help. Any suggestions?😕
Cycling Equipment · Public discussion
Dura Ace rear derailleur problem
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- Cycling Equipment
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- 10 December 2003
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- 12 December 2003
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- toseley
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Quoted post said:
Originally posted by toseley
I just put a new ultegra cassette and dura ace chain on my bike and now it skips over the second to the smallest cog in both directions. I fiddled with the adjusting barrel but didn't seem to help. Any suggestions?😕so it goes 1->3 and 3->1, but shifting between all other cogs is perfect? or does it get to the other cogs, but is making chain rubbing noises and such?
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Try lubricating the shifter, and throw a new cable in there.
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Quoted post said:
Originally posted by drewski
so it goes 1->3 and 3->1, but shifting between all other cogs is perfect? or does it get to the other cogs, but is making chain rubbing noises and such?Exactly; 1-3, 3-1... shifting between the other cogs is OK but it does seem kinda noisy.
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I've had this problem with Ultegra 12-21 cassettes--a number of them. When I switch to a 12-23, the problem goes away. I suspect there may be a quality control issue with SOME sizes of Ultegra cassettes. You might want to try a different size and see what happens.
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Quoted post said:
Originally posted by RichieRay
Try lubricating the shifter, and throw a new cable in there.That's just hooey.If the problem wasn't there before it's the stuff he messed with.
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my guess is a stiff link.
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Quoted post said:
Originally posted by boudreaux
That's just hooey.If the problem wasn't there before it's the stuff he messed with.Hooey?
Indexed systems are quite sensitive, and require some *float* in the cable. While it may have worked fine with the old cog and chain because it was likely well-worn in... it may require some lubrication, and possible a new cable to work correctly. I think if he spent the money for a new casette and chain, its worth the 2 bucks for a new cable. Cable tension and float is key for the system to work correctly, especially on the lower cogs.
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Quoted post said:
Originally posted by RichieRay
Hooey?
Indexed systems are quite sensitive, and require some *float* in the cable. While it may have worked fine with the old cog and chain because it was likely well-worn in... it may require some lubrication, and possible a new cable to work correctly. I think if he spent the money for a new casette and chain, its worth the 2 bucks for a new cable. Cable tension and float is key for the system to work correctly, especially on the lower cogs.'Float' in the cable is a new one on me. Check your glossary of terms. Correct tension and dreailer setup works for me.
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Quoted post said:
Originally posted by boudreaux
'Float' in the cable is a new one on me. Check your glossary of terms. Correct tension and dreailer setup works for me.Yes, tension is certainly key... so why not replace the cable?
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Quoted post said:
Originally posted by RichieRay
Yes, tension is certainly key... so why not replace the cable?An old cable that has already been stretched cannot be tensioned properly.??? LOL. There is nothing wrong with used cables as long as they are not ginked or frayed. Not that cables are not cheap,just that it is not likely the problem,given the problem did not exist before the change. When people replace parts like this, they uually do something wrong or mess with something else that causes the problem. Not that the cassette might be defective as already mentioned.
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Quoted post said:
Originally posted by boudreaux
An old cable that has already been stretched cannot be tensioned properly.??? LOL. There is nothing wrong with used cables as long as they are not ginked or frayed. Not that cables are not cheap,just that it is not likely the problem,given the problem did not exist before the change. When people replace parts like this, they uually do something wrong or mess with something else that causes the problem. Not that the cassette might be defective as already mentioned.Whatever... I was just trying to help the guy... I buy cables in bulk and change them frequently to keep things working properly.
Please correct me if I'm wrong here, because I am a newbie to this forum... but the pompous tone of your postings must mean you truly know-it-all.
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Quoted post said:
Originally posted by RichieRay
Whatever... I was just trying to help the guy... I buy cables in bulk and change them frequently to keep things working properly.
Please correct me if I'm wrong here, because I am a newbie to this forum... but the pompous tone of your postings must mean you truly know-it-all.I reuse cables and have no problem. A cable is good till it's ginked or frayed. Worn,defective or gunked up casing can be a bigger issue,but too many even change that more often than necessary based on bogus advise of 'replace stuff till you run out of money and hope you fnd the problem'.
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Ray is right. Boudreaux's attitude is full of hooey.
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Quoted post said:
Originally posted by BaCardi
Ray is right. Boudreaux's attitude is full of hooey.I was searching through his posts... While his character can be helpful,
his self-righteousness is quite transparent. -
Quoted post said:
Originally posted by BaCardi
Ray is right. Boudreaux's attitude is full of hooey.More wisdon from another hooey monger.
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Quoted post said:
Originally posted by RichieRay
I was searching through his posts... While his character can be helpful,Maybe you learned somethig useful?
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Quoted post said:
Originally posted by boudreaux
A cable is good till it's ginked or frayed.i could not find "ginked" in the glossary. please advise . . .
😉
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Does hoey mean to blow chunks ? it does in England , or is it just short hand for expletive deleted ? What ever he does sound full of it , I mean advice of course .
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OK guys chill out! Let's all be civilized OK? I just went to the bike shop and it was quite a simple matter of realigning the derailleur cogs so that they're lined up perpindicular to the smallest cog.
No hooey involved whatsoever!
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