Is there any reason to not use a Shimano road cassette on an off-road drivetrain? Either 8 speed or 9 speed?
The cassettes I see offered for mountain bikes have cogs I will never use on both ends. Seems that getting more choices of useful gears would be better than having a 30, 32, 34 I never use never mind the 11 or 12 I don't have enough torque or large enough hills for. Something like a 13-28 would be great, but isn't sold as a "mountain" cassette.
So any reason to not use the road parts? I've got an 8 speed setup now, but might convert to 9 when I start replacing this stuff.
Will a 9 speed crankset work well with 8 speed chain and front der? In case I get a deal and want to start the conversion there.
"RonSonic" wrote: (clip) The cassettes I see offered for mountain bikes have cogs I will never use on both ends.(clip) ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Never say "never."
"RonSonic" wrote: (clip) The cassettes I see offered for mountain bikes have cogs I will never use on both ends.(clip) ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Never say "never."
"RonSonic" wrote: (clip) The cassettes I see offered for mountain bikes have cogs I will never use on both ends.(clip) ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Never say "never."
"RonSonic" wrote: (clip) The cassettes I see offered for mountain bikes have cogs I will never use on both ends.(clip) ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Never say "never."
"RonSonic" wrote: (clip) The cassettes I see offered for mountain bikes have cogs I will never use on both ends.(clip) ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Never say "never."
No need to change the chainset as your 8 speed chainset will probably be fine with 9s chain. Same applies to derailleurs (though I believe you need to match mtb front derailleurs with mtb shifters for indexing to work properly).
Cassettes are interchangeable, the "road" or "mtb" is just a marketing term and doesn't reflect any differences in geometry etc.
The things you will need to change are chain, cassette and indexed shifters.
You can have the best of all worlds by retaining the largest sprocket, but replacing the rest of the cassette with a closer ratio "road" cassette. I do this on my touring bike to give a 13-24 +32 arrangement. Then you have close ratios with a bail out gear in case you hit a steep hill at the end of a long day with lots of luggage.
No need to change the chainset as your 8 speed chainset will probably be fine with 9s chain. Same applies to derailleurs (though I believe you need to match mtb front derailleurs with mtb shifters for indexing to work properly).
Cassettes are interchangeable, the "road" or "mtb" is just a marketing term and doesn't reflect any differences in geometry etc.
The things you will need to change are chain, cassette and indexed shifters.
You can have the best of all worlds by retaining the largest sprocket, but replacing the rest of the cassette with a closer ratio "road" cassette. I do this on my touring bike to give a 13-24 +32 arrangement. Then you have close ratios with a bail out gear in case you hit a steep hill at the end of a long day with lots of luggage.
No need to change the chainset as your 8 speed chainset will probably be fine with 9s chain. Same applies to derailleurs (though I believe you need to match mtb front derailleurs with mtb shifters for indexing to work properly).
Cassettes are interchangeable, the "road" or "mtb" is just a marketing term and doesn't reflect any differences in geometry etc.
The things you will need to change are chain, cassette and indexed shifters.
You can have the best of all worlds by retaining the largest sprocket, but replacing the rest of the cassette with a closer ratio "road" cassette. I do this on my touring bike to give a 13-24 +32 arrangement. Then you have close ratios with a bail out gear in case you hit a steep hill at the end of a long day with lots of luggage.
No need to change the chainset as your 8 speed chainset will probably be fine with 9s chain. Same applies to derailleurs (though I believe you need to match mtb front derailleurs with mtb shifters for indexing to work properly).
Cassettes are interchangeable, the "road" or "mtb" is just a marketing term and doesn't reflect any differences in geometry etc.
The things you will need to change are chain, cassette and indexed shifters.
You can have the best of all worlds by retaining the largest sprocket, but replacing the rest of the cassette with a closer ratio "road" cassette. I do this on my touring bike to give a 13-24 +32 arrangement. Then you have close ratios with a bail out gear in case you hit a steep hill at the end of a long day with lots of luggage.
No need to change the chainset as your 8 speed chainset will probably be fine with 9s chain. Same applies to derailleurs (though I believe you need to match mtb front derailleurs with mtb shifters for indexing to work properly).
Cassettes are interchangeable, the "road" or "mtb" is just a marketing term and doesn't reflect any differences in geometry etc.
The things you will need to change are chain, cassette and indexed shifters.
You can have the best of all worlds by retaining the largest sprocket, but replacing the rest of the cassette with a closer ratio "road" cassette. I do this on my touring bike to give a 13-24 +32 arrangement. Then you have close ratios with a bail out gear in case you hit a steep hill at the end of a long day with lots of luggage.
No need to change the chainset as your 8 speed chainset will probably be fine with 9s chain. Same applies to derailleurs (though I believe you need to match mtb front derailleurs with mtb shifters for indexing to work properly).
Cassettes are interchangeable, the "road" or "mtb" is just a marketing term and doesn't reflect any differences in geometry etc.
The things you will need to change are chain, cassette and indexed shifters.
You can have the best of all worlds by retaining the largest sprocket, but replacing the rest of the cassette with a closer ratio "road" cassette. I do this on my touring bike to give a 13-24 +32 arrangement. Then you have close ratios with a bail out gear in case you hit a steep hill at the end of a long day with lots of luggage.
Thanks. I'm in the market for a crankset anyway. Long story, but I presently have a clear anodized left arm and a black right.
I don't feel the need for a bail-out gear lower than say a 28. I've not used my granny ring since verifying that it works and I do live in Florida. Anything that steep and traction is more an issue than torque.
No need to change the chainset as your 8 speed chainset will probably be fine with 9s chain. Same applies to derailleurs (though I believe you need to match mtb front derailleurs with mtb shifters for indexing to work properly).
Cassettes are interchangeable, the "road" or "mtb" is just a marketing term and doesn't reflect any differences in geometry etc.
The things you will need to change are chain, cassette and indexed shifters.
You can have the best of all worlds by retaining the largest sprocket, but replacing the rest of the cassette with a closer ratio "road" cassette. I do this on my touring bike to give a 13-24 +32 arrangement. Then you have close ratios with a bail out gear in case you hit a steep hill at the end of a long day with lots of luggage.
Thanks. I'm in the market for a crankset anyway. Long story, but I presently have a clear anodized left arm and a black right.
I don't feel the need for a bail-out gear lower than say a 28. I've not used my granny ring since verifying that it works and I do live in Florida. Anything that steep and traction is more an issue than torque.
No need to change the chainset as your 8 speed chainset will probably be fine with 9s chain. Same applies to derailleurs (though I believe you need to match mtb front derailleurs with mtb shifters for indexing to work properly).
Cassettes are interchangeable, the "road" or "mtb" is just a marketing term and doesn't reflect any differences in geometry etc.
The things you will need to change are chain, cassette and indexed shifters.
You can have the best of all worlds by retaining the largest sprocket, but replacing the rest of the cassette with a closer ratio "road" cassette. I do this on my touring bike to give a 13-24 +32 arrangement. Then you have close ratios with a bail out gear in case you hit a steep hill at the end of a long day with lots of luggage.
Thanks. I'm in the market for a crankset anyway. Long story, but I presently have a clear anodized left arm and a black right.
I don't feel the need for a bail-out gear lower than say a 28. I've not used my granny ring since verifying that it works and I do live in Florida. Anything that steep and traction is more an issue than torque.
No need to change the chainset as your 8 speed chainset will probably be fine with 9s chain. Same applies to derailleurs (though I believe you need to match mtb front derailleurs with mtb shifters for indexing to work properly).
Cassettes are interchangeable, the "road" or "mtb" is just a marketing term and doesn't reflect any differences in geometry etc.
The things you will need to change are chain, cassette and indexed shifters.
You can have the best of all worlds by retaining the largest sprocket, but replacing the rest of the cassette with a closer ratio "road" cassette. I do this on my touring bike to give a 13-24 +32 arrangement. Then you have close ratios with a bail out gear in case you hit a steep hill at the end of a long day with lots of luggage.
Thanks. I'm in the market for a crankset anyway. Long story, but I presently have a clear anodized left arm and a black right.
I don't feel the need for a bail-out gear lower than say a 28. I've not used my granny ring since verifying that it works and I do live in Florida. Anything that steep and traction is more an issue than torque.
