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dumb chain removal question

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UK and Europe
Published
25 August 2003
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30 August 2003
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Jonathan Ives
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  1. Hi,

    I have aquired 2 old Raleigh bikes, I'd guess around 15 years old. One is a kids racer, one a
    first bike.

    I'd like to thoroughly clean and lubricate them, but I cannot see how to remove the chains. I'm
    reasonably technical, but new to bikes. I assumed there would be a removable link or rivet to
    "break" the chain and enable me to remove it from the triangle of the rear frame.

    Am I not looking hard enough or are these chains never intended to be removed by owners ? No link
    looks any different than any other. Maybe they need some more cleaning.

    I can make out a made in Germany mark on the chain, but both are Raleigh models.

    Any pointers gratefully received.

  2. "Jonathan Ives" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    "]news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    I'd like to thoroughly clean and lubricate them, but I cannot see how to remove the chains. I'm
    reasonably technical, but new to bikes. I assumed there would be a removable link or rivet to
    "break" the chain and enable me to remove it from the triangle of the rear frame....

    I think I have seen some chains with a "special" link, but all the chains I have ever used have had
    all the links the same and I have just broken *any* link with a "chain tool" which are about a fiver
    if I remember rightly.

  3. Jonathan Ives said:

    I have aquired 2 old Raleigh bikes, I'd guess around 15 years old. One is a kids racer, one a
    first bike.

    I'd like to thoroughly clean and lubricate them, but I cannot see how to remove the chains. I'm
    reasonably technical, but new to bikes. I assumed there would be a removable link or rivet to
    "break" the chain and enable me to remove it from the triangle of the rear frame.

    Most derailleur chains don't have a special link. They don't have the bulky joining link some single
    speed or hub-geared bikes have because one would interfere with gear changing or rub on neighbouring
    sprockets.

    A special tool is required instead - which is used to push pins in and out (partially) so the chain
    can be broken and joined. The tools are quite cheap and reasonably easy to use once you get the
    knack. Re-joining is more difficult and there's a danger of creating a stiff link - but there are
    ways of curing that (see below).

    If got a friendly bike shop nearby, perhaps you could buy a tool and get a demonstration with it.

    Alternatively, a very good tool of its type is available for only two quid (post free) from:
    mwdyason.ltd.ukshop.asp - "Chain link remover"

    Instructions: parktool.comFAQchnRe.shtml

    parktool.comFAQtchan.shtml

    There are special links available separately for derailleur chain which make it easy to break
    and join a chain with no tools at all (SRAM Powerlink is one good example), but I'm not sure
    there are any for 5 or 6-speed chains - which I suspect your bikes have. How many sprockets on
    the back of each?

    Quoted message said:

    .......or are these chains never intended to be removed by owners

    A lot of owners won't ever remove their own chains. They'll either clean chain while on bike (not so
    good) or never bother!

    ~PB

  4. Jonathan Ives said:

    Hi,

    I have aquired 2 old Raleigh bikes, I'd guess around 15 years old. One is a kids racer, one a
    first bike.

    I'd like to thoroughly clean and lubricate them, but I cannot see how to remove the chains. I'm
    reasonably technical, but new to bikes. I assumed there would be a removable link or rivet to
    "break" the chain and enable me to remove it from the triangle of the rear frame.

    Am I not looking hard enough or are these chains never intended to be removed by owners ? No link
    looks any different than any other. Maybe they need some more cleaning.

    If they're the original chains, which it sounds like, then no - there's no special link. You need a
    link removal tool which any decent bike shop should stock. An example is below:

    parktool.comCT 5.shtml

    Alternatively, since you'll need to buy a tool anyway - a mechanical chain cleaner may be simpler:

    parktool.comCG 2.shtml

    Regards

    Alex

  5. Pete Biggs said:

    There are special links available separately for derailleur chain which make it easy to break and
    join a chain with no tools at all (SRAM Powerlink is one good example), but I'm not sure there are
    any for 5 or 6-speed chains - which I suspect your bikes have.

    Sorry if I'm completely wrong here, but surely chains used with anything up to 7 speed are all the
    same, ie 3/32nd. Apart of course from hub gears and single speeds which often use i/8th chains. The
    only other size of chain is for 9 and 10 speed bikes. SRAM Powerlinks come in 8 and 9 speed sizes,
    but an 8 speed chain is the same width as a chain found on a 5,6 or 7 speed bike... Hence you can
    get a powerlink.

    Personally I dont bother with them as I know more than one person who has had the link spontaneously
    release when sprinting out of the saddle, with a fairly unpleasant outcome.

    --

    -Alex

    ----------------------------------
    [email hidden]

    alexpg.ath.cxcycling.php westerleycycling.org.ukwesterleycycling.org.uk
    ----------------------------------

  6. "Adrian Boliston" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    "]news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    "Jonathan Ives" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    "]news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    I'd like to thoroughly clean and lubricate them, but I cannot see how to remove the chains. I'm
    reasonably technical, but new to bikes. I assumed there would be a removable link or rivet to
    "break" the chain and enable me to remove it from the triangle of the rear frame....

    I think I have seen some chains with a "special" link, but all the chains


    I

    Quoted message said:

    have ever used have had all the links the same and I have just broken


    *any*

    Quoted message said:

    link with a "chain tool" which are about a fiver if I remember rightly.


    Strange, when I was a kid they had a special link (three speed), and now in the past few years they
    have a special link SRAM. But for some reason in between they went off the idea?

  7. Alex Graham said:
    Quoted message said:

    There are special links available separately for derailleur chain which make it easy to break and
    join a chain with no tools at all (SRAM Powerlink is one good example), but I'm not sure there
    are any for 5 or 6-speed chains - which I suspect your bikes have.

    Sorry if I'm completely wrong here, but surely chains used with anything up to 7 speed are all the
    same, ie 3/32nd.

    3/32 is the *internal* width and that is the same with all derailleur chains - right up to 9 (and
    10?) speed - but the outside width varies. It's the outside that is relevant to Powerlinks.

    Barnetts Manual (that I've just checked) implies 6-speed chains are the same as 7-speed: 7.2 to
    7.4mm. But there's no mention of 5sp. I can't find any outside widths at all on Sheldon Brown or
    Park Tools.

    I've never used 7sp on my bikes but I remember noticing that 8sp chains looked narrower than the old
    5 & 6sp chains that I used to use.

    8sp = 7.2mm, 9sp = 6.6 to 6.8mm

    Some Powerlinks are advertised specifically for 7sp but maybe they are NOS.

    Quoted message said:

    Personally I dont bother with them as I know more than one person who has had the link
    spontaneously release when sprinting out of the saddle, with a fairly unpleasant outcome.

    There are very few reports of failures considering how many users there are. I've never had any
    problems at all with them, and suspect that some kind of mismatch or misuse is usually responsible
    for any trouble. The link is actually at its most secure when the chain is tensioned and sprinting
    with them is safe, IMO. I believe they're just as strong as any other link.

    ~PB

  8. [email hidden] (Jonathan Ives) wrote in message
    news:<[email hidden]>... . . .

    Wow ! 4 very full answers in a few hours. Many thanks to all, I'll get a tool as described.

  9. Pete Biggs said:

    3/32 is the *internal* width and that is the same with all derailleur chains - right up to 9 (and
    10?) speed - but the outside width varies. It's the outside that is relevant to Powerlinks.

    Barnetts Manual (that I've just checked) implies 6-speed chains are the same as 7-speed: 7.2 to
    7.4mm. But there's no mention of 5sp. I can't find any outside widths at all on Sheldon Brown or
    Park Tools.

    5 speed bikes are still made (kids bikes) and they use a normal 5/6/7 chain (PC48) or equiv. I have
    a 7 speed bike and I use a PC58 chain which is nominally 8sp. So I think we should conclude that
    5/6/7 all use the same spacing between sprockets and everything and can use the same chain, although
    different manafacturers in different eras make and made slightly different outside widths. Or
    something like that 🙂

    Quoted message said:


    I've never used 7sp on my bikes but I remember noticing that 8sp chains looked narrower than the
    old 5 & 6sp chains that I used to use.

    I think I know what you mean now I come to think of it

  10. Alex Graham said:

    5 speed bikes are still made (kids bikes) and they use a normal 5/6/7 chain (PC48) or equiv. I
    have a 7 speed bike and I use a PC58 chain which is nominally 8sp. So I think we should conclude
    that 5/6/7 all use the same spacing between sprockets and everything and can use the same chain,
    although different manafacturers in different eras make and made slightly different outside
    widths. Or something like that 🙂

    The spacing between sprockets can be different sometimes but I agree that 7 or 8sp chain is
    compatible with 5 and 6 speed as well (because the internal width is the same). But that
    doesn't necessarily mean chains on 5 and 6sp bikes were /always/ as narrow (perhaps they've
    just stopped making the fat ones now?). Hopefully the other question I x-posted should sort it
    out once and for all.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    I've never used 7sp on my bikes but I remember noticing that 8sp chains looked narrower than the
    old 5 & 6sp chains that I used to use.

    I think I know what you mean now I come to think of it

    I could be wrong - maybe they just had a more chunky appearance or my memory is playing
    tricks on me.

    ~PB

  11. "Pete Biggs" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:<[email hidden]>...

    Quoted message said:

    Jonathan Ives wrote:

    Quoted message said:

    Most derailleur chains don't have a special link. They don't have the bulky joining link some
    single speed or hub-geared bikes have because one would interfere with gear changing or rub on
    neighbouring sprockets.

    When I was a teenager the chain broke on my 24" wheel racer (remember them?) in the middle of
    nowhere and a very helpful motorist stopped and fixed it with one of those old fashioned circlippy
    type links which he just happened to have in his toolbox. I was eternally grateful until I took off
    down the road to find it fouled the rear mech at the first turn of the pedals. Imagine riding
    several miles having to pedal one revolution, then reverse pedal etc etc to stop the link reaching
    the mech! almost as much fun as riding across London with one pedal! (fortunately had toeclips)

  12. martin said:

    When I was a teenager the chain broke on my 24" wheel racer (remember them?) in the middle of
    nowhere and a very helpful motorist stopped and fixed it with one of those old fashioned circlippy
    type links which he just happened to have in his toolbox. I was eternally grateful until I took
    off down the road to find it fouled the rear mech at the first turn of the pedals. Imagine riding
    several miles having to pedal one revolution, then reverse pedal etc etc to stop the link reaching
    the mech! almost as much fun as riding across London with one pedal! (fortunately had toeclips)

    Not nice but I've done more awkward things on a bike. Scooting a bike with no chain, riding a bike
    while pushing another for miles, riding with no brakes at all. Mad! In fact, endlessly talking about
    bikes on a newsgroup is just a bit mad innit? I think I'm in need of some sleep ...but maybe a
    Bombay Mix sandwich first.

    ~PB

  13. "Pete Biggs" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:<[email hidden]>...

    Quoted message said:
    martin said:

    When I was a teenager the chain broke on my 24" wheel racer (remember them?) in the middle of
    nowhere and a very helpful motorist stopped and fixed it with one of those old fashioned
    circlippy type links which he just happened to have in his toolbox. I was eternally grateful
    until I took off down the road to find it fouled the rear mech at the first turn of the pedals.
    Imagine riding several miles having to pedal one revolution, then reverse pedal etc etc to stop
    the link reaching the mech! almost as much fun as riding across London with one pedal!
    (fortunately had toeclips)

    Not nice but I've done more awkward things on a bike. Scooting a bike with no chain, riding a bike
    while pushing another for miles, riding with no brakes at all. Mad! In fact, endlessly talking
    about bikes on a newsgroup is just a bit mad innit? I think I'm in need of some sleep ...but maybe
    a Bombay Mix sandwich first.

    How about 7 miles of the grand union canal towpath with no saddle (but seat pin), 15 miles across
    hilly Northants with a back flat (hoiked the tube out of the way and pulled the tyre beads either
    side of the rim, stable but very uncomfy) Carrying wife's bike on my back?.Hiring one of those tag a
    longs in the New Forest? (when I picked it up the freewheel was bust and the previous person had not
    noticed, or its rider presumably!)

    Any more?

    Quoted message said:


    ~PB

  14. Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Not nice but I've done more awkward things on a bike. Scooting a bike with no chain, riding a
    bike while pushing another for miles, riding


    with

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    no brakes at all. Mad! In fact, endlessly talking about bikes on a newsgroup is just a bit mad
    innit? I think I'm in need of some sleep ...but maybe a Bombay Mix sandwich first.

    How about 7 miles of the grand union canal towpath with no saddle (but seat pin), 15 miles across
    hilly Northants with a back flat (hoiked the tube out of the way and pulled the tyre beads either
    side of the rim, stable but very uncomfy) Carrying wife's bike on my back?.Hiring one of those tag
    a longs in the New Forest? (when I picked it up the freewheel was bust and the previous person had
    not noticed, or its rider presumably!)

    Hmm still on-topic I see, or at least, just the 'dumb' part.

    The Real Lee Casey

  15. In message <[email hidden]>, The Real Lee Casey
    <[email hidden]> writes

    Quoted message said:


    Hmm still on-topic I see, or at least, just the 'dumb' part.


    There's only so much you can say about getting a dumb chain off a bike.
    --
    Sue ]🙁🙂

  16. Adrian Boliston said:

    "Jonathan Ives" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    "]news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    I'd like to thoroughly clean and lubricate them, but I cannot see how to remove the chains. I'm
    reasonably technical, but new to bikes. I assumed there would be a removable link or rivet to
    "break" the chain and enable me to remove it from the triangle of the rear frame....

    I think I have seen some chains with a "special" link, but all the chains I have ever used have
    had all the links the same and I have just broken *any* link with a "chain tool" which are about a
    fiver if I remember rightly.

    The removable link was common on bikes with sturmey archer gears, but doesn't work with derailleurs
    because the slide clip on the side of the removable link jams the mechanism.

    When using the chain tool to break the chain don't push the rivet right out - push it through just
    far enough to break the chain, but leave it still in the far side plate. This makes it *much* easier
    to push back in (obviously from the other side). Also, when you push the rivet back in with the
    chain tool you'll find the link is stiff. The solution to this is not to push the rivet right home
    at the first pass, just so it is flush with the outside of the far side plate. Then move the chain
    onto the rib on the chain tool that is furthest form the 'anvil' side and push the rivet about half
    a turn more with the press. This will make the link nice and limber.

    --
    [email hidden] (Simon Brooke) jasmine.org.uk~simon

    ;; ... exposing the violence incoherent in the system...

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