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Dumb chain question?

Started by Nick Drew · · Last activity · 9 posts · 427 views

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Original section
UK and Europe
Published
17 July 2004
Last activity
21 July 2004
Original author
Nick Drew
Posts
9
Discussion status
Public discussion
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427
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  1. Despite having had my Kona hardtail for 3 years now, I've only just noticed
    that the chain is one of those with a special pin for when you need to break
    or repair the chain.

    Now call me Mr Stupid, but what happens if the chain breaks at a different
    link and you don't have a spare joining pin?

  2. Nick Drew:

    Quoted message said:

    Now call me Mr Stupid, but what happens if the chain breaks at a different
    link and you don't have a spare joining pin?

    If you carry a chain tool with you as part of your on-the-road emergency kit
    (I carry a multi-tool that includes a chain tool), you can remove the broken
    link and re-join the chain minus one link whenever and wherever this may
    happen. Unless your chain is already extremely short, one or two fewer links
    shouldn't cause a problem.

    d.

  3. Nick Drew said:

    Despite having had my Kona hardtail for 3 years now, I've only just
    noticed that the chain is one of those with a special pin for when
    you need to break or repair the chain.

    Now call me Mr Stupid, but what happens if the chain breaks at a
    different link and you don't have a spare joining pin?

    I suggest carrying a chain tool and a SRAM Powerlink (which will work on
    $himaNO chain).

    Have a butcher's at:
    url:http://www.parktool.com/repair_help/FAQchnRe.shtml

    ~PB

  4. Quoted message said:

    Nick Drew:

    Quoted message said:

    Now call me Mr Stupid, but what happens if the chain breaks at a


    different

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    link and you don't have a spare joining pin?

    If you carry a chain tool with you as part of your on-the-road emergency


    kit

    Quoted message said:

    (I carry a multi-tool that includes a chain tool), you can remove the


    broken

    Quoted message said:

    link and re-join the chain minus one link whenever and wherever this may
    happen. Unless your chain is already extremely short, one or two fewer


    links

    Quoted message said:

    shouldn't cause a problem.

    I appreciate a chain tool is a necessity, and not being a complete newbie I
    tend to carry one, but removing a pin that isn't the joining pin is pretty
    much impossible, it seems. Hence the question

    Cheers
    Nick

  5. Nick Drew said:

    I appreciate a chain tool is a necessity, and not being a complete
    newbie I tend to carry one, but removing a pin that isn't the joining
    pin is pretty much impossible, it seems. Hence the question

    Have you (or anyone) actually tried removing it (with a good tool, eg.
    Topeak)?

    If it's not removable then you could always remove adjacent ones and use a
    shorter chain to "get home".

    ~PB

  6. in message <[email hidden]>, Nick Drew

    (') said:
    Quoted message said:

    Nick Drew:

    Quoted message said:

    Now call me Mr Stupid, but what happens if the chain breaks at a


    different

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    link and you don't have a spare joining pin?

    If you carry a chain tool with you as part of your on-the-road
    emergency


    kit

    Quoted message said:

    (I carry a multi-tool that includes a chain tool), you can remove the


    broken

    Quoted message said:

    link and re-join the chain minus one link whenever and wherever this
    may happen. Unless your chain is already extremely short, one or two
    fewer


    links

    Quoted message said:

    shouldn't cause a problem.

    I appreciate a chain tool is a necessity, and not being a complete
    newbie I tend to carry one, but removing a pin that isn't the joining
    pin is pretty much impossible, it seems.

    My experience is that it's easy enough to get them *out* with a
    perfectly ordinary chain tool, but virtually impossible to get them
    back *in*. So carry a magic joining link.

    --
    [email hidden] (Simon Brooke) http://www.jasmine.org.uk/~simon/
    -----BEGIN GEEK CODE BLOCK-----
    Version: 3.1
    GP/CS s++: a+ C+++ ULBVCS*++++$ L+++ P--- E+>++ W+++ N++ K w--(---)
    M- !d- PS++ PE-- Y+ PGP !t 5? X+ !R b++ !DI D G- e++ h*(-) r++ y+++
    ------END GEEK CODE BLOCK------

  7. Nick Drew said:

    Despite having had my Kona hardtail for 3 years now, I've only just noticed
    that the chain is one of those with a special pin for when you need to break
    or repair the chain.

    You haven't removed your chain in 3 years?

    That aside, what make is the chain? That, to a large extent, determines the tool/method required.

    Ian

  8. Simon Brooke said:

    My experience is that it's easy enough to get them *out* with a
    perfectly ordinary chain tool, but virtually impossible to get them
    back *in*. So carry a magic joining link.

    Hi there.

    The trick (unless you are using a shimano chain) is not to oush the
    pin all the way out. Push the pin until it is almost out, then with a
    bit of wiggling (carry rubber gloves) you'll be able to pull the link
    apart. The pin is then ready in place to be pushed back when you've
    removed the offending links.

    See the excellent park tool site for diagrams and instructions.
    http://www.parktool.com/repair_help/FAQchnRe.shtml

    Note Shimano chains are a pain in the a**, and you need to carry a
    special spare pin around with you. Sram are *much* better choice.

    Cheers, Andy

    ps Top tip: When you fit a new chain you'll inevitably have a few
    links spare. I rejoined these and am using them as a rather natty
    keyfob. As I've always got my keys with me, I can use these spare
    links in an emergency.

    --
    o
    _o <|\
    _ \<_ _\
    ______ --^o- __ (_)/(_) __ / ________
    | |
    | andrewgturnbull |
    | Stirling Triathlon Club |
    | http://www.stirling-tri.demon.co.uk |
    |_____________________________________|

  9. "Andrew Turnbull" <[email hidden]> wrote in
    message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:
    Simon Brooke said:

    My experience is that it's easy enough to get them *out*


    with a

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    perfectly ordinary chain tool, but virtually impossible


    to get them

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    back *in*. So carry a magic joining link.

    Hi there.

    The trick (unless you are using a shimano chain) is not to


    oush the

    Quoted message said:

    pin all the way out. Push the pin until it is almost out,


    then with a

    Quoted message said:

    bit of wiggling (carry rubber gloves) you'll be able to


    pull the link

    Quoted message said:

    apart. The pin is then ready in place to be pushed back


    when you've

    Quoted message said:

    removed the offending links.

    See the excellent park tool site for diagrams and


    instructions.

    Quoted message said:

    http://www.parktool.com/repair_help/FAQchnRe.shtml

    Note Shimano chains are a pain in the a**, and you need to


    carry a

    Quoted message said:

    special spare pin around with you. Sram are *much* better


    choice.

    Quoted message said:


    Cheers, Andy

    ps Top tip: When you fit a new chain you'll inevitably


    have a few

    Quoted message said:

    links spare. I rejoined these and am using them as a


    rather natty

    Quoted message said:

    keyfob. As I've always got my keys with me, I can use


    these spare

    Quoted message said:

    links in an emergency.


    My tip for "easy" link removal/replacement. It is all too
    easy to overdo the "push nearly out" method so give this
    method a try.......
    Select a link, fit link removing tool and turn handle 3
    turns only, then move to the other pin on that side plate
    and do same number of turns. The side plate should then be
    free (give a half turn on each pin if it not). Slide link
    out and re-insert into extractor and push both pins back the
    3 turns (or whatever) to their starting point.
    On re-assembly this link can be used to join both end of
    the chain for any low power tests you want to do. When
    happy, and this is the tricky bit, push the loose side plate
    on to the two "empty" pins, it should be just possible to
    feel when they are aligned correctly, fit into extractor and
    do a half turn then check you can do the same for the other
    pin. If not ok use the "tight link" position to release
    the plate & try aligning it again. When this is OK tighten
    the tool so pins are correctly through plate
    One thing I like about my method is that the chain can
    be hung on the chainwheel and the loose link fitted there so
    not only do you avoid pushing the pin too far in
    dis-assembly but you are not trying to do hold the extractor
    tool and two ends of the chain in position all at the same
    time.
    IanB

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