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Double vs triple & gearing...

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UK and Europe
Published
13 July 2004
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Velvet
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  1. Been pondering on this one for a while.

    If a bike has a double chainset, what's typical gearing range on the
    rear cassette for it, compared to a triple? Is the rear cassette the
    same for both, or would a double tend to have a much bigger range/bigger
    lowest gear?

    I can't even begin to imagine you could get up hills on my bike if it
    was a double chainring instead of triple... or is it a case that the two
    front chainrings are actually a size to fit between a granny/middle and
    middle/biggest?

    Curious about this, can anyone enlighten?
    --

    Velvet

  2. Velvet said:

    Been pondering on this one for a while.

    If a bike has a double chainset, what's typical gearing range on the
    rear cassette for it, compared to a triple? Is the rear cassette the
    same for both, or would a double tend to have a much bigger
    range/bigger lowest gear?

    I can't even begin to imagine you could get up hills on my bike if it
    was a double chainring instead of triple... or is it a case that the
    two front chainrings are actually a size to fit between a
    granny/middle and middle/biggest?

    Curious about this, can anyone enlighten?

    Its not just the front rings that are important its the 'size' of the gear
    that is produced. My tourer has a double chainset but the lowest gear is
    lower than my racing machines that have triples.

    Your question regarding sizes is difficult as triples are different as are
    doubles. Heres what I have

    50/36 , 13-32 (8)
    52/39/30, 12-25 (9)
    52/39/30, 13-24 (7)

    My rear cassettes are pretty much the same on my triples as they were when
    they were doubles, I pretty much added the 30 ring to get lower gears.

  3. "Velvet" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    Been pondering on this one for a while.

    If a bike has a double chainset, what's typical gearing range on the
    rear cassette for it, compared to a triple? Is the rear cassette the
    same for both, or would a double tend to have a much bigger range/bigger
    lowest gear?

    I can't even begin to imagine you could get up hills on my bike if it
    was a double chainring instead of triple... or is it a case that the two
    front chainrings are actually a size to fit between a granny/middle and
    middle/biggest?

    Probably much the same for both. That's why they say triples are for wimps
    (like me) 😉 But how long is a piece of string? You can put any cassette,
    with any range of cogs you like on the rear, subject to the capacity of your
    derailleur and the availability of ready-made blocks of ratios. Personally
    I have three cassettes atm - 11-21, which for me is only for the flat or
    very short and not very steep hills, a 12-23 which isn't much different, but
    I have it anyway, and an 11-32 for when/if I tour or plan to do big hills.
    Perhaps I'll buy something in between for audax one day. Choose your own
    range of ratios to suit the terrain you expect to cycle over and load you
    carry (touring, racing etc). What is 'usual' doesn't matter.

    Rich

  4. in message <[email hidden]>, Velvet

    (') said:

    Been pondering on this one for a while.

    If a bike has a double chainset, what's typical gearing range on the
    rear cassette for it, compared to a triple? Is the rear cassette the
    same for both, or would a double tend to have a much bigger
    range/bigger
    lowest gear?

    I can't even begin to imagine you could get up hills on my bike if it
    was a double chainring instead of triple... or is it a case that the
    two front chainrings are actually a size to fit between a
    granny/middle and middle/biggest?

    Curious about this, can anyone enlighten?

    Almost any combination of the above, in principle. If you look at
    Wiggle's most popular chainsets, though, the comparisons are

    Double Triple
    TA Zephyr 34/48
    TA Vega 34/48 26/36/46
    Shimano 105 5502 39/53 30/42/52
    Shimano Dura Ace 7700 39/53 30/39/53
    Shimano Dura Ace 7800 39/53
    Truvative Elita 39/53 30/42/52
    FSA Gossamer 39/53 30/42/52
    Campagnolo Record 39/53 30/40/50

    Obviously some of these chainsets are available as standard with
    different ratios, and probably all of them can be built up with
    different ratios to special order. But (Specialites TA apart) there's a
    remarkable agreement there, and if you take the 'norm' as 39/53 for a
    double ad 30/42/52 for a triple, what you notice is that the 'little'
    ring on the doubles is not much smaller than the middle ring on the
    triples, and the big ring on the doubles is actually bigger than the
    big ring on the triples. Combined with that most bikes you see with
    doubles have closer ratios at the back than bikes you see with
    triples...

    You can get up hills with biggish gears. You can't spin, though; at some
    point you just have to get out of the saddle and stomp.

    --
    [email hidden] (Simon Brooke) http://www.jasmine.org.uk/~simon/
    -----BEGIN GEEK CODE BLOCK-----
    Version: 3.1
    GP/CS s++: a+ C+++ ULBVCS*++++$ L+++ P--- E+>++ W+++ N++ K w--(---)
    M- !d- PS++ PE-- Y+ PGP !t 5? X+ !R b++ !DI D G- e++ h*(-) r++ y+++
    ------END GEEK CODE BLOCK------

  5. On Tue, 13 Jul 2004 18:45:46 GMT, Velvet <[email hidden]>

    Quoted message said:

    Been pondering on this one for a while.

    If a bike has a double chainset, what's typical gearing range on the
    rear cassette for it, compared to a triple? Is the rear cassette the
    same for both, or would a double tend to have a much bigger range/bigger
    lowest gear?

    I can't even begin to imagine you could get up hills on my bike if it
    was a double chainring instead of triple... or is it a case that the two
    front chainrings are actually a size to fit between a granny/middle and
    middle/biggest?

    Curious about this, can anyone enlighten?

    I'd love to run my old road bike on a 52/39 with a really tight road
    cassette like 13-25 (9) or similiar, but everywhere I go I see hills,
    and hills that at 45 yrs of age I have to respect, so I run a mtn bike
    triple of 48/38/28 with a 11-32 (9) cassette. Sometimes I stand,
    sometimes I spin, but I sure do need the option to just sit and spin
    slowly when the mood takes me [which can be quite often!], so I have
    to compromise smaller increments between gears for 'range'.

    Sheldon Brown offers a customized 9 speed cassette aimed at the
    touring cyclist, and that suits me fine - a 9 speed with good low
    options and nicely spaced higher gears Unfortunately, the price is not
    so attractive :-( .

    http://harriscyclery.net/site/itemdetails.cfm?ID=730

    I'm sure there'd be a market for Shimano here. I could make one myself
    I guess, but right now I've just spent enough on bikes, what with
    pedals, shoes, shifters, derailleurs etc! All for a bike that cost 3
    quid !!

    Anyway, it's a case of try and see what suits. Go try out.

    Garry

  6. garryb59 said:

    On Tue, 13 Jul 2004 18:45:46 GMT, Velvet <[email hidden]>

    Quoted message said:

    Been pondering on this one for a while.

    If a bike has a double chainset, what's typical gearing range on the
    rear cassette for it, compared to a triple? Is the rear cassette the
    same for both, or would a double tend to have a much bigger range/bigger
    lowest gear?

    I can't even begin to imagine you could get up hills on my bike if it
    was a double chainring instead of triple... or is it a case that the two
    front chainrings are actually a size to fit between a granny/middle and
    middle/biggest?

    Curious about this, can anyone enlighten?

    I'd love to run my old road bike on a 52/39 with a really tight road
    cassette like 13-25 (9) or similiar, but everywhere I go I see hills,
    and hills that at 45 yrs of age I have to respect, so I run a mtn bike
    triple of 48/38/28 with a 11-32 (9) cassette. Sometimes I stand,
    sometimes I spin, but I sure do need the option to just sit and spin
    slowly when the mood takes me [which can be quite often!], so I have
    to compromise smaller increments between gears for 'range'.

    Sheldon Brown offers a customized 9 speed cassette aimed at the
    touring cyclist, and that suits me fine - a 9 speed with good low
    options and nicely spaced higher gears Unfortunately, the price is not
    so attractive :-( .

    http://harriscyclery.net/site/itemdetails.cfm?ID=730

    I'm sure there'd be a market for Shimano here. I could make one myself
    I guess, but right now I've just spent enough on bikes, what with
    pedals, shoes, shifters, derailleurs etc! All for a bike that cost 3
    quid !!

    Anyway, it's a case of try and see what suits. Go try out.

    Garry

    *Grin* I wasn't looking to change what I have on my bike (though
    halfway up a hill sometimes I do long for a bigger cog on the rear!) -
    I'm used to it now :-) I was just curious as to the gearing that's
    typical (or rather the spread of gears, perhaps) on a double vs triple
    set-up...

    I got to thinking about how triples are for wimps, and then wondered if
    that's actually just a myth and the gearing works out roughly the same,
    once you take into account a different casette at the back and a front
    chainring that sits between granny/med and med/large.

    It's those long hours in the car that gets me to thinking about stuff
    like this ;-)

    --

    Velvet

  7. Velvet [email hidden] opined the following...

    Quoted message said:

    I got to thinking about how triples are for wimps,

    Count the number of triples in the Tour and see if you'd feel happy
    calling the riders wimps ;-)

    Jon

  8. Jon Senior said:

    Velvet [email hidden] opined the following...

    Quoted message said:

    I got to thinking about how triples are for wimps,

    Count the number of triples in the Tour and see if you'd feel happy
    calling the riders wimps ;-)

    Jon

    LOL... Ok, I should have elaborated a bit... I don't think they're for
    wimps, but my perception is that quite a lot of other cyclists *do*
    think they're for wimps... or maybe that's exaggerating a bit and they
    just seem to have a vague notion of 3 means your legs can't be as good
    as mine with 2 :-)

    --

    Velvet

  9. Velvet said:

    Been pondering on this one for a while.

    If a bike has a double chainset, what's typical gearing range on the
    rear cassette for it, compared to a triple? Is the rear cassette the
    same for both, or would a double tend to have a much bigger
    range/bigger lowest gear?

    Rear sprockets with doubles are usually about the same or even smaller!

    Quoted message said:

    I can't even begin to imagine you could get up hills on my bike if it
    was a double chainring instead of triple... or is it a case that the
    two front chainrings are actually a size to fit between a
    granny/middle and middle/biggest?

    Nope, except for "compact doubles" that have smaller chainrings, the
    double inner ring is no smaller than a road-bike-triple middle ring.

    Quoted message said:

    Curious about this, can anyone enlighten?

    39/53 and similar double chainsets are designed for racing where you
    simply don't ever go so slow that a lower gear is needed. I feel sorry
    for recreation riders in hilly areas who feel it would be wimping out to
    use a triple and grind away in gears that are far too high instead.

    ~PB

  10. Velvet [email hidden] opined the following...

    Quoted message said:

    LOL... Ok, I should have elaborated a bit... I don't think they're for
    wimps, but my perception is that quite a lot of other cyclists *do*
    think they're for wimps... or maybe that's exaggerating a bit and they
    just seem to have a vague notion of 3 means your legs can't be as good
    as mine with 2 :-)

    I used to be a "2 is more than enough" rider until I got the Giant.
    While I rarely drop to the Granny ring it has proved useful on occasions
    when I've been absolutely knackered. Since I'm planning the Applecross
    Peninsula ride this summer (See the routes section of the Edinburgh
    Cycles website if you don't know it!) I think it'll become essential!

    Jon

  11. Velvet said:
    Jon Senior said:

    Velvet [email hidden] opined the following...

    Quoted message said:

    I got to thinking about how triples are for wimps,

    Count the number of triples in the Tour and see if you'd feel happy
    calling the riders wimps ;-)

    Jon

    LOL... Ok, I should have elaborated a bit... I don't think they're for
    wimps, but my perception is that quite a lot of other cyclists *do*
    think they're for wimps... or maybe that's exaggerating a bit and they
    just seem to have a vague notion of 3 means your legs can't be as good
    as mine with 2 :-)

    There was an article in 'cycle' magazine that argued IIRC:

    o) It's common to have to ride up hills in the UK that are _much_
    steeper than most hills in the TDF.

    o) In the TDF, riders use different ratios for steeper / less steep
    stages. I imagine you would want a single set of gears that is
    suitable for most occasions.

    o) A stage of the Milk race was won by someone riding a triple.

    AC

  12. "Velvet" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:


    I got to thinking about how triples are for wimps, and then wondered if
    that's actually just a myth and the gearing works out roughly the same,
    once you take into account a different casette at the back and a front
    chainring that sits between granny/med and med/large.

    No, triples will have a wider spread and go lower. Typically I think
    there'll be not much difference, if any, at the rear and a typical Shimano
    front triples are 52/42/30, front doubles 53/39 so which chainring sits
    between both a granny/med and the med/large? I assume you're refering to
    both rings of a double but that's not the way they usually are. The lower
    double ring is much nearer the med of a triple than it is of the granny, and
    the higher double is typically slightly bigger than the large triple.
    Triples are not for wimps, IMO, but for people who are simply not racers.
    On the flat, I have no real need even for my 52 big ring and think I'd be
    better off with something like 46/36/26!

    Rich

  13. Richard Goodman said:

    Probably much the same for both. That's why they say triples are for wimps
    (like me) 😉 But how long is a piece of string? You can put any cassette,
    with any range of cogs you like on the rear, subject to the capacity of your
    derailleur and the availability of ready-made blocks of ratios.

    I wouldn't mind some advice on this subject.
    I find the gearing too high on my road bike.
    Its got a double chainring, Shimano Sora components and STI levers.
    Sorry - haven't counted the teeth on either.
    Looking for some easier gears for the upcoming Dunwich Dynamo.

    How difficut (and expensive!) is it to fit a triple chainset on the front?
    I think front derallieur would have to be changed.
    I guess the brake/gear lever is unchanged?

    Alternatively, is it a big deal to fit another rear cassette?
    What tools would I need (good excuse to buy tools...)?
    And if I got a cassette with a much larger lowest gear, would I have to
    change the chain to cope? I suppose I'm asking how one guages what range
    a derallieur can cope with.

  14. John Hearns:

    Quoted message said:

    How difficut (and expensive!) is it to fit a triple chainset on the front?

    New chainset + new bottom bracket + new rear derailleur = £60-£80 minimum?

    Quoted message said:

    I think front derallieur would have to be changed.
    I guess the brake/gear lever is unchanged?

    You might get away without changing the front derailleur, depending on the
    depth of the cage, but you'll probably have to change to a long cage rear
    derailleur. I'm not sure about the shifters but they are sold as seperate
    double or triple models so I suspect you would have to change them - and
    that ain't cheap.

    Quoted message said:

    Alternatively, is it a big deal to fit another rear cassette?

    No big deal at all - much less hassle and cost than changing the chainset. A
    cassette with a 28 or 32 largest sprocket can be got for £25.

    Quoted message said:

    What tools would I need (good excuse to buy tools...)?

    Chain whip and cassette removal tool - see here for a detailed explanation
    (with pictures!):
    <URL:http://www.parktool.com/repair_help/FAQcogs.shtml>

    Quoted message said:

    And if I got a cassette with a much larger lowest gear, would I have to
    change the chain to cope? I suppose I'm asking how one guages what range
    a derallieur can cope with.

    I'm not sure but if you're buying a new cassette then it's a good idea to
    buy a new chain anyway, otherwise you'll wear the cassette out quicker.

    d.

  15. davek said:


    No big deal at all - much less hassle and cost than changing the chainset. A
    cassette with a 28 or 32 largest sprocket can be got for £25.


    Thanks for the advice.

    current setup is: dual front 52 and 42 teeth

    7 speed rear, range from 13 to 23 teeth
    (hmm - am I counting this right? I marked a tooth with Tippex)

    Ideas on a good cassette?

  16. John Hearns <[email hidden]> wrote:

    : current setup is: dual front 52 and 42 teeth

    : 7 speed rear, range from 13 to 23 teeth

    You could lower your gearing significantly without going to a triple.

    You'll need a 39 tooth chainring (about £15) and a 13-26 or 13-28
    7 speed block.

    Don't get a rear block with more than 28 teeth - they are MTB blocks and
    your rear mech probably won't cope (it might, but it's a risk and I wouldn't)

    A triple would give you lower gears again but that'll be really expensive
    because you'd have to convert to at least 8 speed (and more probably 9) to
    get shift levers. Which might need a re-spaced rear (or might not) and it'll
    just be a complete PITA. If your bike still has downtube levers then you could
    just use the front shift in friction mode but you'd still have to try and
    find a 7 speed triple from somewhere.

    Arthur

    --
    Arthur Clune http://www.clune.org
    "Technolibertarians make a philosophy out of a personality defect"
    - Paulina Borsook

  17. in message <[email hidden]>, John Hearns

    (') said:
    davek said:


    No big deal at all - much less hassle and cost than changing the
    chainset. A cassette with a 28 or 32 largest sprocket can be got for
    £25.


    Thanks for the advice.

    current setup is: dual front 52 and 42 teeth

    7 speed rear, range from 13 to 23 teeth
    (hmm - am I counting this right? I marked a tooth with Tippex)

    Ideas on a good cassette?

    Consider changing your 42 tooth chainring for a 39?

    My partner's roadbike (which was originally my sisters) has a 14/28 6
    speed at the rear, which gives decently low gears but some quite big
    jumps.

    --
    [email hidden] (Simon Brooke) http://www.jasmine.org.uk/~simon/

    Morning had broken, and we had run out of gas for the welding torch.

  18. John Hearns said:

    How difficut (and expensive!) is it to fit a triple chainset on the
    front?

    Quite expensive. Inner ring could be changed to a 38 or 39 instead (38 is
    miniumum) or a "compact double" crankset could be fitted instead -- these
    can take smaller rings.

    Quoted message said:

    I think front derallieur would have to be changed.
    I guess the brake/gear lever is unchanged?

    Unfortunatley, not all STIs are triple-compatible.

    Quoted message said:

    Alternatively, is it a big deal to fit another rear cassette?

    Certainly worth changing your 13-23 first anyway.

    Quoted message said:

    What tools would I need (good excuse to buy tools...)?

    For cassette: Cassette remover and chain whip from Mike Dyason's.

    Chainrings: 5mm allen key.

    Quoted message said:

    And if I got a cassette with a much larger lowest gear, would I have
    to change the chain to cope?

    Might need a longer chain, depending on whether existing chain is longer
    than it needs to be now or not. Would be worth getting a new chain anyway
    if current one is quite worn.

    Quoted message said:

    I suppose I'm asking how one guages what
    range a derallieur can cope with.

    See Shimano websites but note that you can "push" the limits and
    capacities a bit.

    ~PB

  19. "Pete Biggs" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

    Quoted message said:
    John Hearns said:

    How difficut (and expensive!) is it to fit a triple chainset on the
    front?


    Quite expensive.

    Quoted message said:

    And if I got a cassette with a much larger lowest gear, would I have
    to change the chain to cope?

    Might need a longer chain,

    Quoted message said:

    I suppose I'm asking how one guages what
    range a derallieur can cope with.

    See Shimano websites but note that you can "push" the limits and
    capacities a bit.

    indeed. The quoted ranges are designed to let you use largets
    chainring with smallest cog and vice versa without reaching the limits
    of the rear derailleur cage so the "max" rear cog size can be the
    largest cop you would use on the big chain ring (although a margin
    might be sensible). As usual, Sheldon Brown will tell you more than
    you ever want to know. My bike came with 12-23 52-39 as stock. I
    have run 12-27 and will be running 12-25 for the dynamo. Changing a
    cassette is a five minute job (plus wheel removal and refitting). The
    tools aren't expensive butr surely Julian or someone would be able to
    lend you a whip and cassette tool

    best wishes
    james

  20. [email hidden] (james) wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

    Quoted message said:

    "Pete Biggs" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

    Quoted message said:
    John Hearns said:

    How difficut (and expensive!) is it to fit a triple chainset on the
    front?


    Quite expensive.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    And if I got a cassette with a much larger lowest gear, would I have
    to change the chain to cope?

    Might need a longer chain,

    Quoted message said:

    I suppose I'm asking how one guages what
    range a derallieur can cope with.

    See Shimano websites but note that you can "push" the limits and
    capacities a bit.

    indeed. The quoted ranges are designed to let you use largets
    chainring with smallest cog and vice versa without reaching the limits
    of the rear derailleur cage so the "max" rear cog size can be the
    largest cop you would use on the big chain ring (although a margin
    might be sensible). As usual, Sheldon Brown will tell you more than
    you ever want to know. My bike came with 12-23 52-39 as stock. I
    have run 12-27 and will be running 12-25 for the dynamo. Changing a
    cassette is a five minute job (plus wheel removal and refitting). The
    tools aren't expensive butr surely Julian or someone would be able to
    lend you a whip and cassette tool

    I started with the usual 52/42 vs 13-24, but when I started Audax
    dropped to a 39, but this was still a struggle so cheated with a 28
    inserted instead of the 24, which made a good emergency gear but you
    could not basically change up from it to 21 without it feeling like
    someone had tied a haybale on the back, so this year went back to a
    13-23 but with a 30/40/50 triple from SJS, this is ideal as you get a
    good range of low gears and also fairly close ratio in each front
    ring. With only 7 on the back the ratios on a normal 14-28 on the back
    are just too far apart road use. Would never buy a bike without a
    triple now.

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