I got a 2014 Domane 4.0 in January I put Dura-ace carbon alloy wheels on it. I like the bike but Im very unhappy with the Tiagra group set. I'm thinking about upgrading to a Venge Pro Race Force that run about $5800. I dont want to spend that kind of money but I want something that I wont be replacing for awhile. I already replaced an Alley Z comp to the Domane. Im losing money upgrading every year. Also not going to lie I really like the look of the Venge. Any advise for me?
the Campagnolo shifters will probably allow you to migrate to 11-speed with minimal expense if you are ever so inclined ... that is, an appropriate rear hub/(wheel) + Cassette
A swap to SRAM shifters will require greater expense (i.e., different derailleurs) which may-or-may-not be an issue for you.
The Campagnolo shifters will cost from <$200 to 3x that amount depending on how you source them (eBay vs. LBS) ...
The swap, regardless of the shifters you choose, should be considered to be an easy-enough, DIY project.
So you're switching from an entry level carbon-framed "endurance" bike to a mid-range aero road-sprinter/classics-racer type bike.
The Venge is going to handle (more quickly) and ride (more harshly) a lot differently from the Domane. Yes, you are losing money with these upgrades every year. And by the nature of your upgrades it appears that you don't know what you want, so you'll continue to lose money over the foreseeable future.
I suggest that before spending a pile of money you first go out and ride some (a lot) more and then decide what kind of riding you'll be doing and take your time to select the right tool for the job. Nobody ever had to give up riding because he had to spend another season on a Tiagra-equipped Domane.
I'm just shy of 1k miles on the Domane. The shifting is rather harsh on the bike. Also I'll have to shift up twice then back down to just go up one gear. I've taken it into the shop and told them they worked on it but it didnt help any.
The handle bars also sit high. I'm going to try to lower it some moving the spacers. Also dont like the seat and I know I can easily replace that. About the only think I have liked on this bike is the frame. Stock wheels where heavy and I replaced them. Seems I just want to replace just about everything so I was leaning toward a new bike.
I didnt know as much as I do now when I made the purchase. The bike shop pointed me in that direction so I decided on it.
And you where right when you stated I dont know what I want. Ive only been riding two years and still trying to figure it out. I think I would like to go a more race stiffer ride. I mostly do 30-50 miles. I just yesterday did my first 102 miles! I dont see myself doing it again for awhile.
Originally Posted by Josh7171 I'm just shy of 1k miles on the Domane. The shifting is rather harsh on the bike. Also I'll have to shift up twice then back down to just go up one gear. I've taken it into the shop and told them they worked on it but it didnt help any.
Getting Tiagra 10-speed to work isn't rocket science. Find a shop that can fix this right an ride the bike some more. A lot more. Try a different saddle if you have to. And don't be afraid to slam the stem, especially on a Domane. I'm beginning to think that most road riders would be more comfortable if their handlebars were lower, not higher.
And be aware that head tubes on Venges and Tarmacs are tall for race bikes in their nominal sizes. Most performance-oriented riders know this and size down. I'm betting that if you ride more and get to know bikes better, you'll eventually be happier on something like a Scott Addict or a Cannondale SuperSix.
It's a big world out there. Learn to keep the credit card in your wallet while you're discovering it.
Agreed. My friend has a Tiagra and Sora equipped bike that shifts flawlessly. My 105 setup shifts a fraction of a fraction of a second faster and more cleanly but that's the only difference. 4600 Tiagra is a good group. The fault is with your shop. Ditch the shop, fire up YouTube and tune it yourself. I'd also agree on the lower bar for endurance geometry bikes. The head tubes are already tall, the head set caps are already huge, PLUS they throw a stack of spacers in AND flip the stem. Flip the stem back, lose half the spacers and you might just be impressed with how much better the bike handles and how much speed you pick up not being in that mountain bike riding position.
Does the 4.0 have internal cable routing for the derailleur cables? Take the bike to a shop that has a mechanic who knows what he's doing, and check for a kink in your rear cable.
Did the bike come through set up like that in front, with the high angle stem and a gazillion spacers? Quite frankly, I've never seen a Domane set up like that.
That's exactly how it was setup when I purchased it! Why would they have set it up with the stem like that and all the spacers on the bottom?
The cables are ran outside.
I just tonight moved all the spacers to the top and flipped the stem. Looks odd with the spacers all on top. I rode a few feet to get a feel for it felt a lot better. I plan to really test it Tue morning. Not sure if it will be to much of a drop or not.
Ive noticed on rides 30 miles or more that between my shoulder blades was hurting and realized that its because I am pushing my elbows out to get lower. I think moving this all down will help stop that.
That's actually how I've seen most bikes (race bikes included) setup from most local shops. I think it's better when they're selling inappropriate bikes to new riders because the position on the 30 second "test" ride is more comfortable and that's all anyone that's new and uninitiated is going to judge the bike by - "yea, that position felt good, must be a good bike."
If where it's at feels too low, don't be afraid to start by just flipping the stem and leaving the spacers. Work your way down removing a spacer per week or so. Going from jacked up to slammed all at once might be a bit taxing on your back, neck, and arms, depending on your flexibility. Give your body time to adapt. You've also made a significant reach change (extended it) with that much of a drop. While riding, make note whether that's for better or worse, and a shorter stem might be in order depending on the answer. Resist the urge to move the seat to change reach.
Ive noticed on rides 30 miles or more that between my shoulder blades was hurting and realized that its because I am pushing my elbows out to get lower. I think moving this all down will help stop that.
Very astute of you to notice. That's exactly what I found when I demoed two "endurance" bikes last week at Breckenridge. The stems were down but not slammed, so I was still three or four centimeters higher than my usual ride. My elbows were out, my hands got numb, and my shoulders hurt behind the neck. Then I got on a Scott Foil that was a size smaller than my usual ride, with the bar about a centimeter lower, and it was pure heaven. This week I'm ordering a lower headset cone.
Use this bike as a test platform to find out what you really want and take your time.
Quote: Originally Posted by Josh7171[IMG]/img/forum/go_quote.gif[/IMG] That's exactly how it was setup when I purchased it! Why would they have set it up with the stem like that and all the spacers on the bottom?
FYI. The extra spacers below the stem are THERE because it allows for future adjustments without purchasing a new fork!
imagine the displeasure of the rider if s/he needed more stem/handlebar height AFTER the fork's steerer had been cut to accommodate a presumption at the time of purchase and then being told that the options were a new fork or a pretty hinky adapter.
The flipped stem is, as AyeYo suggested, to accommodate people who are often migrating from a more upright riding position.
Did 26 miles today with the new bar setup. I could tell the difference on sprinting and hills. I felt better all around. I like the lower feel. However I was still a bit sore from the 102 mile ride I did this weekend so my legs were not 100%.
I did post a PR this morning on Matney Mountain at some parts has a 11% to 15% grade.
I may move one spacer down see if its still as good. I dislike having that poll in my face with the three spacers. Sure you can tell from the picture.
Originally Posted by Josh7171 Did 26 miles today with the new bar setup. I could tell the difference on sprinting and hills. I felt better all around. I like the lower feel. However I was still a bit sore from the 102 mile ride I did this weekend so my legs were not 100%.
I did post a PR this morning on Matney Mountain at some parts has a 11% to 15% grade.
I may move one spacer down see if its still as good. I dislike having that poll in my face with the three spacers. Sure you can tell from the picture.
There you go, improving by listening to your body instead of pulling out the credit card.
You could probably trim a a centimeter or two off that fork steerer without causing too much damage to the bike's resale value.
Originally Posted by oldbobcat Very astute of you to notice. That's exactly what I found when I demoed two "endurance" bikes last week at Breckenridge. The stems were down but not slammed, so I was still three or four centimeters higher than my usual ride. My elbows were out, my hands got numb, and my shoulders hurt behind the neck. Then I got on a Scott Foil that was a size smaller than my usual ride, with the bar about a centimeter lower, and it was pure heaven. This week I'm ordering a lower headset cone.
Use this bike as a test platform to find out what you really want and take your time.
Quoted post said:
Originally Posted by oldbobcat
There you go, improving by listening to your body instead of pulling out the credit card.
You could probably trim a a centimeter or two off that fork steerer without causing too much damage to the bike's resale value.
Uh-oh ...
I hope that you realize that you are close to echoing what I believe that I have been suggesting over the years that a person may be better served if s/he uses his-or-her current bike to sort out the bike fitting rather than relying on a so-called "professional" fitting ...
BTW. While I don't think that trimming a CF steerer is a big deal, I think that most cyclists should find an LBS which can handle the task if they want to shorten the steerer on their fork if it is CF ...
AND, be very sure that the length is 'right' ...
because if it is cut too short, then a new fork will have to be purchased
BTW. While I don't think that trimming a CF steerer is a big deal, I think that most cyclists should find an LBS which can handle the task if they want to shorten the steerer on their fork if it is CF ...
AND, be very sure that the length is 'right' ...
because if it is cut too short, then a new fork will have to be purchased
As I'm sure that moving the stem and the bars down will help me in the short term. I feel that I will be looking at the end of the season for a new bike. The Dura-Ace wheels I changed to has helped a lot. These have all made it better but still not the perfect ride I'm looking for. But It seems I want to change just about everything else on the bike.
So I'm going to aim for a bike that has everything I'm looking for. Ill look for year end deals or used to keep it around 4k. I think I still may go with the Venge. Looking for Ultegra or better with the Roval Rapide wheel set or better. Just hoping what I want today is not different later down the line.
I went in to the shop to not having a clue what I wanted last time and came out with the Domane. It has been a good bike over all and I may end up keeping it for my longer rides. Not sure if I want to trade it off or not.
Feel free to punch holes in what I just typed. Criticism is always welcome.
Nothing wrong with that mentality. Unfortunately the reality of bike shopping as a newcomer to riding is that in spite of all the advice and even lots of test rides, you really have no idea what you like or want. The only way you learn that is by buying something and riding it a lot. Some people get lucky and their initial buy suits them perfectly, some people end up back at the shop at the end of the season to get what they really want, some people spend a small fortune trying to turn the bike that doesn't suit them into something that does. At least you've caught yourself before turning into the third person. The main advise everyone here has been giving you is to make sure you spend enough time on the Domane to really figure out what you want and like, because those things will change the more you ride. The last thing you want is to go out and buy a $4,000 bike, only to find out that one isn't really what you like either. That's when you turn into the third person, because you're already heavily invested so you feel pressured to keep heaping money onto the already poor investment, hoping you'll eventually do some magical upgrade that turns it into the bike you've always wanted.
