does such a rim exist?

sal bass said:

i've recently aquire more parts for my new bike. originally i intended
to use a silver pair of the DT Swiss RR 1.1 rims. top shelf stuff in
my opinion.

but recently i came into a set of Nuovo Record hig flange hubs on some
older Weinman rims. while i know most of these older rims are not 700c
but 27", some are for tubular use, and the clinchers aren't usually
very stiff seeing as how they are single wall and pinned rather than
double wall and welded and then the brake track machined.....i was more
intrigued by their appearance when polished.

The old non-anodized, non-welded, non-machined rims were plenty tough
-- like the Mavic MA2 if you can find a pair. They were double-walled
with spoke sockets. Ambrosia may still make a non-anodized rim along
these lines -- or Torelli.

By the way, that DT rim weighs 15 grams more than my Velocity Aerohead
OC and does not have offset spokes, which allows me to have a
reasonably tensioned wheel. It is also more expensive than the
Velocity. -- Jay Beattie.

Jay Beattie said:

sal bass said:

i've recently aquire more parts for my new bike. originally i intended
to use a silver pair of the DT Swiss RR 1.1 rims. top shelf stuff in
my opinion.

but recently i came into a set of Nuovo Record hig flange hubs on some
older Weinman rims. while i know most of these older rims are not 700c
but 27", some are for tubular use, and the clinchers aren't usually
very stiff seeing as how they are single wall and pinned rather than
double wall and welded and then the brake track machined.....i was more
intrigued by their appearance when polished.

The old non-anodized, non-welded, non-machined rims were plenty tough
-- like the Mavic MA2 if you can find a pair. They were double-walled
with spoke sockets. Ambrosia may still make a non-anodized rim along
these lines -- or Torelli.

By the way, that DT rim weighs 15 grams more than my Velocity Aerohead
OC and does not have offset spokes, which allows me to have a
reasonably tensioned wheel. It is also more expensive than the
Velocity. -- Jay Beattie.

I've seen lots of Sun rims on eBay that are polished, some with eyelets,
some not.

Matt O.

Matt O'Toole said:

Jay Beattie said:

sal bass said:

i've recently aquire more parts for my new bike. originally i
intended to use a silver pair of the DT Swiss RR 1.1 rims. top
shelf stuff in my opinion.

but recently i came into a set of Nuovo Record hig flange hubs on
some older Weinman rims. while i know most of these older rims are
not 700c but 27", some are for tubular use, and the clinchers
aren't usually very stiff seeing as how they are single wall and
pinned rather than double wall and welded and then the brake track
machined.....i was more intrigued by their appearance when polished.

The old non-anodized, non-welded, non-machined rims were plenty tough
-- like the Mavic MA2 if you can find a pair. They were
double-walled with spoke sockets. Ambrosia may still make a
non-anodized rim along these lines -- or Torelli.

By the way, that DT rim weighs 15 grams more than my Velocity
Aerohead OC and does not have offset spokes, which allows me to have
a reasonably tensioned wheel. It is also more expensive than the
Velocity. -- Jay Beattie.

I've seen lots of Sun rims on eBay that are polished, some with
eyelets, some not.

Sun M13II has eyelets.

--
Phil, Squid-in-Training

You can polish any rim or component in about half an hour if you use
over cleaner on it. Buy easy-off oven cleaner (pure LYE). Wear
gloves and a mask. Spray on the cleaner and polish. repeat. A very
light abrasive (plastic brillo pad) will help to strip the anodizing.
finish with 2000 grit sandpaper and nevr dull or simichrome aluminum
polish. done. I have done it to a black seatpost with good results.

- Don Gillies
San Diego, CA

sal bass said:

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a386/ipodusersmustdie/rimpolish2.jpg

does anyone know if there is a 700c rim out there, double wall, welded,
with a machined brake track and able to be polished up like those in
the photo?

Like Sun M13?
http://www.bikepartsusa.com/product_info.phtml?p=01-124161

Not stooper-light, but they're pre-polished.

Jeff

got it....thanks for that info.

weight is not too big a concern since this will be a nice lugged frame
with fork. arrival time about....Oct. 2007...i'm on a waiting list....

anyway....the other thing is...i'll be using a King single speed hub
with three IG, UG, or HG cogs mounted to it and spaced for 8 speed. a
Campagnolo Rally rear der with a short cage and a Campagnolo barcon
shifter to move the chain. so while it will be geared....the rear
wheel will be symetrical since i'll be using a single speed hub.

although, on my mountain bike...i do use a rim with an offset eyelets.
very nice idea.

i'll check out Ambrosia and Torelli.

Jay Beattie said:

sal bass said:

i've recently aquire more parts for my new bike. originally i intended
to use a silver pair of the DT Swiss RR 1.1 rims. top shelf stuff in
my opinion.

but recently i came into a set of Nuovo Record hig flange hubs on some
older Weinman rims. while i know most of these older rims are not 700c
but 27", some are for tubular use, and the clinchers aren't usually
very stiff seeing as how they are single wall and pinned rather than
double wall and welded and then the brake track machined.....i was more
intrigued by their appearance when polished.

The old non-anodized, non-welded, non-machined rims were plenty tough
-- like the Mavic MA2 if you can find a pair. They were double-walled
with spoke sockets. Ambrosia may still make a non-anodized rim along
these lines -- or Torelli.

By the way, that DT rim weighs 15 grams more than my Velocity Aerohead
OC and does not have offset spokes, which allows me to have a
reasonably tensioned wheel. It is also more expensive than the
Velocity. -- Jay Beattie.

ahh yes...hadn't see those....light weight isn't too big a concern.

i check those out....

JeffWills said:

sal bass said:

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a386/ipodusersmustdie/rimpolish2.jpg

does anyone know if there is a 700c rim out there, double wall, welded,
with a machined brake track and able to be polished up like those in
the photo?

Like Sun M13?
http://www.bikepartsusa.com/product_info.phtml?p=01-124161

Not stooper-light, but they're pre-polished.

Jeff

Matt, Phil, thanks.....

Phil said:

Matt O'Toole said:

Jay Beattie said:

sal bass wrote:
> i've recently aquire more parts for my new bike. originally i
> intended to use a silver pair of the DT Swiss RR 1.1 rims. top
> shelf stuff in my opinion.
>
> but recently i came into a set of Nuovo Record hig flange hubs on
> some older Weinman rims. while i know most of these older rims are
> not 700c but 27", some are for tubular use, and the clinchers
> aren't usually very stiff seeing as how they are single wall and
> pinned rather than double wall and welded and then the brake track
> machined.....i was more intrigued by their appearance when polished.

The old non-anodized, non-welded, non-machined rims were plenty tough
-- like the Mavic MA2 if you can find a pair. They were
double-walled with spoke sockets. Ambrosia may still make a
non-anodized rim along these lines -- or Torelli.

By the way, that DT rim weighs 15 grams more than my Velocity
Aerohead OC and does not have offset spokes, which allows me to have
a reasonably tensioned wheel. It is also more expensive than the
Velocity. -- Jay Beattie.

I've seen lots of Sun rims on eBay that are polished, some with
eyelets, some not.

Sun M13II has eyelets.

--
Phil, Squid-in-Training

would i have to plug the holes of the eyelets to keep that stuff out of
the rim where i can't get to it?

Donald Gillies said:

You can polish any rim or component in about half an hour if you use
over cleaner on it. Buy easy-off oven cleaner (pure LYE). Wear
gloves and a mask. Spray on the cleaner and polish. repeat. A very
light abrasive (plastic brillo pad) will help to strip the anodizing.
finish with 2000 grit sandpaper and nevr dull or simichrome aluminum
polish. done. I have done it to a black seatpost with good results.

- Don Gillies
San Diego, CA

sal bass wrote:

Sal Bass? Boy that Jayne Manfield had some big breasts.

Bill "too much Seinfeld" S.

Donald Gillies said:

You can polish any rim or component in about half an hour if you use
over cleaner on it. Buy easy-off oven cleaner (pure LYE). Wear
gloves and a mask. Spray on the cleaner and polish. repeat. A very
light abrasive (plastic brillo pad) will help to strip the anodizing.
finish with 2000 grit sandpaper and nevr dull or simichrome aluminum
polish. done. I have done it to a black seatpost with good results.

Any idea how long this lasts? Do you apply "nevr dull" or "simichrome"
at regular intervals to keep them shiny?

Others have reported using oven cleaner on aluminum parts, but that the
shine didn't last very long. I don't recall anyone mentioning aluminum
polish after the oven cleaner treatment.

--
Dave
dvt at psu dot edu

In article <[email hidden]>,

dvt said:

Donald Gillies said:

You can polish any rim or component in about half an hour if you use
over cleaner on it. Buy easy-off oven cleaner (pure LYE). Wear
gloves and a mask. Spray on the cleaner and polish. repeat. A very
light abrasive (plastic brillo pad) will help to strip the anodizing.
finish with 2000 grit sandpaper and nevr dull or simichrome aluminum
polish. done. I have done it to a black seatpost with good results.

Any idea how long this lasts? Do you apply "nevr dull" or "simichrome"
at regular intervals to keep them shiny?

Others have reported using oven cleaner on aluminum parts, but that the
shine didn't last very long. I don't recall anyone mentioning aluminum
polish after the oven cleaner treatment.

I advise against applying corrosives to structural
aluminum. Once there corrosives will eat at the material
until removed. Rinsing them away is tedious and difficult.
Think about the corrosive getting under the eyelet where
it will be particularly difficult to rinse away. On a rim
the failure may be gradual enough to render low the
probability of catastrophic failure, allowing the rim to
be run until the brake surfaces wear down to there
practical end. Or the rim may start to fail at the spoke
holes.

--
Michael Press

it's like a sauna in here.....

Sorni said:

sal bass wrote:

Sal Bass? Boy that Jayne Manfield had some big breasts.

Bill "too much Seinfeld" S.

sal bass said:

Quoted message said:

Like Sun M13?
http://www.bikepartsusa.com/product_info.phtml?p=01-124161

Quoted message said:

ahh yes...hadn't see those....light weight isn't too big a concern.

i check those out....

FWIW: I just built up a set in order to upgrade my town bike. The
front's on an old Shimano high-flange hub, laced in a crows-foot
pattern. The rear's on a Sturmey-Archer three-speed hub. I never
claimed to be normal.

Jeff

sal bass said:

it's like a sauna in here.....

Sorni said:

sal bass wrote:

Sal Bass? Boy that Jayne Manfield had some big breasts.

Bill "too much Seinfeld" S.

Spectacular top post.

Bill "and it was real" S.

I never knew you were so into top posts. I thought you were a leg man.

Sorni said:

sal bass said:

it's like a sauna in here.....

Sorni said:

sal bass wrote:

Sal Bass? Boy that Jayne Manfield had some big breasts.

Bill "too much Seinfeld" S.

Spectacular top post.

Bill "and it was real" S.

sal bass said:

the clinchers aren't usually
very stiff seeing as how they are single wall and pinned rather than
double wall and welded and then the brak e track machined

Laced up, a rim is under enormous compression at that joint and will
not shift, pinned or welded. Welding is done for marketing and
manufacturing reasons, not strength.

Why would machining the brake track make the rim any stronger?

i should have made two sentences out of that.....

i like the idea of a machined brake track so give a consistant feel to
the brake and not feel that pulse where they are pinned.

i've ridden about 10 different pinned rims (both new and used) and i
can always feel that pulse at the joint. while it might not cause the
wheel to fail....it's a bit unnerving.

as for the welding...i've noticed that since the pin isn't located at
the edge of the brake track but at the base of it....that the brake
track can eventually become a bit out of sorts.

while i have no problem getting in there and bending it just a bit
(although i'm not sure it would even move at all) i think it would be
nice to not have to do that.

so a pinned rim is just as strong than a welded one?

41 said:

sal bass said:

the clinchers aren't usually
very stiff seeing as how they are single wall and pinned rather than
double wall and welded and then the brak e track machined

Laced up, a rim is under enormous compression at that joint and will
not shift, pinned or welded. Welding is done for marketing and
manufacturing reasons, not strength.

Why would machining the brake track make the rim any stronger?

Sal Bass said:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

the clinchers aren't usually very stiff seeing as how they are
single wall and pinned rather than double wall and welded and then
the brake track machined

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Laced up, a rim is under enormous compression at that joint and
will not shift, pinned or welded. Welding is done for marketing and
manufacturing reasons, not strength.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Why would machining the brake track make the rim any stronger?

Quoted message said:

i should have made two sentences out of that.....

Quoted message said:

i like the idea of a machined brake track so give a consistant feel
to the brake and not feel that pulse where they are pinned.

Quoted message said:

i've ridden about 10 different pinned rims (both new and used) and i
can always feel that pulse at the joint. while it might not cause
the wheel to fail... it's a bit unnerving.

Oh BS. I've been riding for many miles and with many riders before
the days of welded rims and the symptom you describe has not been an
issue except with rims that were damaged. I'm sure I have ridden more
unwelded rims than you besides having a stack of worn out ones that
are so smooth at the joint that you can't find it with a finger nail,
even though you can see it. I see Mavic can convince the world that
their:

FORE, FTS L, MAXTAL, QRM+, SUP, UB, and other enhancements have any
value other than justifying an unreasonably high price.

Quoted message said:

as for the welding... i've noticed that since the pin isn't located
at the edge of the brake track but at the base of it... that the
brake track can eventually become a bit out of sorts.

Quoted message said:

while i have no problem getting in there and bending it just a bit
(although i'm not sure it would even move at all) i think it would be
nice to not have to do that.

Quoted message said:

so a pinned rim is just as strong than a welded one?

If it's from the same extrusion as the welded one, YES. Of course we
can't compare because no one offers an unwelded version of a welded
rim. Just the same, what sort of failure are you visualizing? In the
old days, someone at Fiamme decided they would not rivet the internal
sleeve at the rim joint, to which believers in rim separation made a
howl. It was that sort of mystic beliefs that encouraged writing
"the Bicycle Wheel".

Jobst Brandt