I've had to get a new fork...for the type of riding I do, a Rock Shox Judy will do; but, comes only in threadless. This means I have to get a new headset as well. I've selected Ritchey Scuzzy Logic Comp. Do you absolutely need a headset press to install this?!?
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Do you absolutely need headset press for threadless
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- Cycling Equipment
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- 27 June 2004
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- 28 June 2004
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- gog
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Quoted post said:
Originally posted by gog
I've had to get a new fork...for the type of riding I do, a Rock Shox Judy will do; but, comes only in threadless. This means I have to get a new headset as well. I've selected Ritchey Scuzzy Logic Comp. Do you absolutely need a headset press to install this?!?Put the headset in the freezer for a few hours and very carfeully heat the inside of your headtube with a torch or heat gun (don't do it too much you'll bubble the paint) Metals expand when they get hot and contract when they get cold. The resulting dimensional change from a 200 degree F temperature differential will give you just enough slack to quickly pound the parts together with a mallet. I've done it, just don't go overboard with the heat.
Assuming your headtube is Aluminum you'll get about 0.0013" of additional diametral clearance between the cup and the headtube for each 100 degrees you raise it above room temperature. It doesn't seem like much but your typical press fit is only about 0.001" to 0.002". A 200 degree increase in temperature won't affect your metal heat treat either.
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Quoted post said:
Originally posted by Mr_Potatohead
Put the headset in the freezer for a few hours and very carfeully heat the inside of your headtube with a torch or heat gun (don't do it too much you'll bubble the paint) Metals expand when they get hot and contract when they get cold. The resulting dimensional change from a 200 degree F temperature differential will give you just enough slack to quickly pound the parts together with a mallet. I've done it, just don't go overboard with the heat.
Assuming your headtube is Aluminum you'll get about 0.0013" of additional diametral clearance between the cup and the headtube for each 100 degrees you raise it above room temperature. It doesn't seem like much but your typical press fit is only about 0.001" to 0.002". A 200 degree increase in temperature won't affect your metal heat treat either.And I've always managed with a hammer and block of wood without the extra hassle.
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Quoted post said:
Originally posted by boudreaux
And I've always managed with a hammer and block of wood without the extra hassle.Yeah, I did mine with a wooden mallet and a sturdy bench to rest the head tube on. Take it slowly and get a friend to help hold things in place, and you shouldn't have a problem. Just be sure the cups are fully seated when you're finished, and if a cup is going into the head tube at an angle, tap it out and try again - walloping it could bugger things up. The bike shops tell you you're sure to wreck the frame or the headset or both if you try it yourself, but then they want you to pay them to do it for you.
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Quoted post said:
Originally posted by boudreaux
And I've always managed with a hammer and block of wood without the extra hassle.yeah you can do it with brute force, the combination of heat and cold just make the parts slip together easier without as much force. Less chance of fubar-ing your nice aluminum headset cups.
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I have a "home-made" headset press that I fashioned myself. Just get a length of large diameter threaded rod (3/4" or so) that's a good bit longer than any headtube (plus bearing races) you'll ever use it on. Put a stack of flat washers and a nut on either end (on top of each of the races to be pressed into the frame) and tighten the nuts. Viola. Works like a charm.
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