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Do underweight rims warp?

Started by Phil, Squid-in-Training · · Last activity · 22 posts · 1,252 views

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Cycling Equipment
Published
4 September 2005
Last activity
6 September 2005
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Phil, Squid-in-Training
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  1. I built up a stupid-light 1420g MTB disc/v-brake wheelset using Sun UFO
    rims. They're a 395g claimed weight, but they ended up being 360g each,
    about a 10% underweight.

    After building it up with ~100kgf tension, I test-rode it using v-brakes
    with abysmal results. The bad results were from the wheel width not being
    constant or something, so as I brake, the whole bike shudders when it
    encounters what seems to be every other spoke. This is more pronounced on
    the front, I would guess as a result of the pretty significant dish on the
    front wheel. The wheel is very true on the stand and I can barely see any
    sort of warping of the rim as it spins.

    My question: are the rims warping from them being too light? Would it be
    alleviated by reducing tension? I would venture to guess that it would
    eventually stop once I rode it through enough mud to grind off enough
    material on the sides to make it constant-width.

    In case you're wondering, the hubs I used were WTB Laserdisc Lite disc hubs,
    which were the lightest and cheapest of any disc or non-disc mountain hubs.
    I'm using this wheelset for light weight, so v-brakes only.
    --
    Phil, Squid-in-Training

  2. Phil Lee said:

    I built up a stupid-light 1420g MTB disc/v-brake wheelset using Sun
    UFO rims. They're a 395g claimed weight, but they ended up being
    360g each, about a 10% underweight.

    Quoted message said:

    After building it up with ~100kgf tension, I test-rode it using
    v-brakes with abysmal results. The bad results were from the wheel
    width not being constant or something, so as I brake, the whole bike
    shudders when it encounters what seems to be every other spoke.
    This is more pronounced on the front, I would guess as a result of
    the pretty significant dish on the front wheel. The wheel is very
    true on the stand and I can barely see any sort of warping of the
    rim as it spins.

    Can you see discoloration on the brake track that looks like the
    ripples you feel? How many spokes does this wheel have? Are the brake
    tracks anodized?

    Quoted message said:

    My question: are the rims warping from them being too light? Would
    it be alleviated by reducing tension? I would venture to guess that
    it would eventually stop once I rode it through enough mud to grind
    off enough material on the sides to make it constant-width.

    If there is something more than anodizing or the like affecting
    friction on the side walls I'm at a loss to guess what it is.

    Quoted message said:

    In case you're wondering, the hubs I used were WTB Laserdisc Lite
    disc hubs, which were the lightest and cheapest of any disc or
    non-disc mountain hubs. I'm using this wheelset for light weight,
    so v-brakes only.

    If there is some distortion cause by spoking, it will not come out by
    loosening spokes, because to affect braking it would be a permanent
    (plastic) deformation. Spoke pattern shadows in anodizing on brake
    tracks is common but it never has caused brake shudder as one might
    imagine.

    Jobst Brandt

  3. Phil said:

    I built up a stupid-light 1420g MTB disc/v-brake wheelset using Sun UFO
    rims. They're a 395g claimed weight, but they ended up being 360g each,
    about a 10% underweight.

    After building it up with ~100kgf tension, I test-rode it using v-brakes
    with abysmal results. The bad results were from the wheel width not being
    constant or something, so as I brake, the whole bike shudders when it
    encounters what seems to be every other spoke. This is more pronounced on
    the front, I would guess as a result of the pretty significant dish on the
    front wheel. The wheel is very true on the stand and I can barely see any
    sort of warping of the rim as it spins.

    My question: are the rims warping from them being too light? Would it be
    alleviated by reducing tension? I would venture to guess that it would
    eventually stop once I rode it through enough mud to grind off enough
    material on the sides to make it constant-width.

    In case you're wondering, the hubs I used were WTB Laserdisc Lite disc hubs,
    which were the lightest and cheapest of any disc or non-disc mountain hubs.
    I'm using this wheelset for light weight, so v-brakes only.
    --
    Phil, Squid-in-Training

    Sun's web site shows the UFO rim:
    http://www.sun-ringle.com/prods/mtbrims.html
    Looks like a pretty normal rim.

    I've had bad brake shudder upon braking with a flexible fork on my
    cyclocross bike. What kind of fork are you using?

  4. Quoted message said:
    Phil Lee said:

    I built up a stupid-light 1420g MTB disc/v-brake wheelset using Sun
    UFO rims. They're a 395g claimed weight, but they ended up being
    360g each, about a 10% underweight.

    Quoted message said:

    After building it up with ~100kgf tension, I test-rode it using
    v-brakes with abysmal results. The bad results were from the wheel
    width not being constant or something, so as I brake, the whole bike
    shudders when it encounters what seems to be every other spoke.
    This is more pronounced on the front, I would guess as a result of
    the pretty significant dish on the front wheel. The wheel is very
    true on the stand and I can barely see any sort of warping of the
    rim as it spins.

    Can you see discoloration on the brake track that looks like the
    ripples you feel? How many spokes does this wheel have?

    and how relevant is spoke count to principle? it affects period &
    amplitude, but not the fact that local elastic distortion occurs.

    Quoted message said:

    Are the brake
    tracks anodized?

    why don't you bother to look them up like dianne did? no, the brake
    track is not anodized.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    My question: are the rims warping from them being too light? Would
    it be alleviated by reducing tension? I would venture to guess that
    it would eventually stop once I rode it through enough mud to grind
    off enough material on the sides to make it constant-width.

    If there is something more than anodizing or the like affecting
    friction on the side walls I'm at a loss to guess what it is.

    ....

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    In case you're wondering, the hubs I used were WTB Laserdisc Lite
    disc hubs, which were the lightest and cheapest of any disc or
    non-disc mountain hubs. I'm using this wheelset for light weight,
    so v-brakes only.

    If there is some distortion cause by spoking, it will not come out by
    loosening spokes, because to affect braking it would be a permanent
    (plastic) deformation.

    absolute rubbish!!! rims elastically distort as a direct result of
    spoke tension!!! that is /not/ plastic deformation!!! how you gave the
    gall to make this stuff up amazes me.

    Quoted message said:

    Spoke pattern shadows in anodizing on brake
    tracks is common

    true.

    Quoted message said:

    but it never has caused brake shudder as one might
    imagine.

    more jobstian rubbish. you just can't resist trying to hang a bunch of
    garbage on one small fact can you.

    Quoted message said:


    Jobst Brandt

  5. Phil said:

    I built up a stupid-light 1420g MTB disc/v-brake wheelset using Sun UFO
    rims. They're a 395g claimed weight, but they ended up being 360g each,
    about a 10% underweight.

    After building it up with ~100kgf tension, I test-rode it using v-brakes
    with abysmal results. The bad results were from the wheel width not being
    constant or something, so as I brake, the whole bike shudders when it
    encounters what seems to be every other spoke. This is more pronounced on
    the front, I would guess as a result of the pretty significant dish on the
    front wheel. The wheel is very true on the stand and I can barely see any
    sort of warping of the rim as it spins.

    My question: are the rims warping from them being too light? Would it be
    alleviated by reducing tension? I would venture to guess that it would
    eventually stop once I rode it through enough mud to grind off enough
    material on the sides to make it constant-width.

    In case you're wondering, the hubs I used were WTB Laserdisc Lite disc hubs,
    which were the lightest and cheapest of any disc or non-disc mountain hubs.
    I'm using this wheelset for light weight, so v-brakes only.

    i'm with dianne on this one. the frequency of the whole bike juddering
    is orders of magnitude below the frequency of spoke encounter. i'd look
    for other issues.

    in principle, yes, you do get some small elastic distortion of a rim due
    to spoke tension, but it should be small in relation to the flexibility
    of the brake pad rubber and the length of the brake pad block. this
    distortion /will/ be slightly exaggerated if the rim is lighter than
    normal, but i doubt it's likely to be an issue. it's also possible for
    the rims to be subject to some kind of manufacuring defect where the
    brake tracks are not parallel but again, that's not likely.

    bottom line, check the braking system. if you can see the frame flex
    when you squeeze the rear brake hard, consider one of those horseshoe
    reinforcer braces. one of those cured a rear brake judder on a light
    steel mtb frame i have.

  6. Quoted message said:
    Phil Lee said:

    I built up a stupid-light 1420g MTB disc/v-brake wheelset using Sun
    UFO rims. They're a 395g claimed weight, but they ended up being
    360g each, about a 10% underweight.

    Quoted message said:

    After building it up with ~100kgf tension, I test-rode it using
    v-brakes with abysmal results. The bad results were from the wheel
    width not being constant or something, so as I brake, the whole bike
    shudders when it encounters what seems to be every other spoke.
    This is more pronounced on the front, I would guess as a result of
    the pretty significant dish on the front wheel. The wheel is very
    true on the stand and I can barely see any sort of warping of the
    rim as it spins.

    Can you see discoloration on the brake track that looks like the
    ripples you feel? How many spokes does this wheel have? Are the brake
    tracks anodized?

    I haven't ridden these any more than 50 feet. I'm actually still waiting on
    more singlespeed conversion parts. The brake track is still painted (not
    anodized) black like the rest of it. It has 32 spokes, of course.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    My question: are the rims warping from them being too light? Would
    it be alleviated by reducing tension? I would venture to guess that
    it would eventually stop once I rode it through enough mud to grind
    off enough material on the sides to make it constant-width.

    If there is something more than anodizing or the like affecting
    friction on the side walls I'm at a loss to guess what it is.

    Quoted message said:

    In case you're wondering, the hubs I used were WTB Laserdisc Lite
    disc hubs, which were the lightest and cheapest of any disc or
    non-disc mountain hubs. I'm using this wheelset for light weight,
    so v-brakes only.

    If there is some distortion cause by spoking, it will not come out by
    loosening spokes, because to affect braking it would be a permanent
    (plastic) deformation. Spoke pattern shadows in anodizing on brake
    tracks is common but it never has caused brake shudder as one might
    imagine.

    That's what I was thinking, too. What's weird is that even if the rim does
    get pulled, the width of the rim should remain relatively constant, even if
    the rim, overall, twists a small bit.

    I did forget to mention that the left-right alternating spoke offset on
    these rims is virtually nothing. Maybe this would increase the magnitude of
    rim twist?

    I'll probably ride these in mud to grind the rims away to the proper width,
    once I get the whole bike working, of course.

    --
    Phil, Squid-in-Training

  7. Quoted message said:
    Phil said:

    I built up a stupid-light 1420g MTB disc/v-brake wheelset using Sun
    UFO rims. They're a 395g claimed weight, but they ended up being
    360g each, about a 10% underweight.

    After building it up with ~100kgf tension, I test-rode it using
    v-brakes with abysmal results. The bad results were from the wheel
    width not being constant or something, so as I brake, the whole bike
    shudders when it encounters what seems to be every other spoke.
    This is more pronounced on the front, I would guess as a result of
    the pretty significant dish on the front wheel. The wheel is very
    true on the stand and I can barely see any sort of warping of the
    rim as it spins.

    My question: are the rims warping from them being too light? Would
    it be alleviated by reducing tension? I would venture to guess that
    it would eventually stop once I rode it through enough mud to grind
    off enough material on the sides to make it constant-width.

    In case you're wondering, the hubs I used were WTB Laserdisc Lite
    disc hubs, which were the lightest and cheapest of any disc or
    non-disc mountain hubs. I'm using this wheelset for light weight, so
    v-brakes only. --
    Phil, Squid-in-Training

    Sun's web site shows the UFO rim:
    http://www.sun-ringle.com/prods/mtbrims.html
    Looks like a pretty normal rim.

    Quoted message said:

    I've had bad brake shudder upon braking with a flexible fork on my
    cyclocross bike. What kind of fork are you using?

    Right now, a RockShox Duke, but I'll be putting a rigid on it shortly.
    Neither of them are very flexy. What would be the cause of shudder with a
    flexy fork?

    --
    Phil, Squid-in-Training

  8. Phil said:

    I built up a stupid-light 1420g MTB disc/v-brake wheelset using Sun UFO
    rims. They're a 395g claimed weight, but they ended up being 360g each,
    about a 10% underweight.

    After building it up with ~100kgf tension, I test-rode it using v-brakes
    with abysmal results. The bad results were from the wheel width not being
    constant or something, so as I brake, the whole bike shudders when it
    encounters what seems to be every other spoke. This is more pronounced on
    the front, I would guess as a result of the pretty significant dish on the
    front wheel. The wheel is very true on the stand and I can barely see any
    sort of warping of the rim as it spins.

    Is it true vertically, or does it have a hump in it? If it's out of
    true in the vertical direction, it will shudder when you brake,
    regardless of how true it is in the side-to-side direction.

    Quoted message said:


    My question: are the rims warping from them being too light? Would it be
    alleviated by reducing tension? I would venture to guess that it would
    eventually stop once I rode it through enough mud to grind off enough
    material on the sides to make it constant-width.

    In case you're wondering, the hubs I used were WTB Laserdisc Lite disc hubs,
    which were the lightest and cheapest of any disc or non-disc mountain hubs.
    I'm using this wheelset for light weight, so v-brakes only.

  9. Southern Comfort said:
    Quoted message said:

    If there is some distortion cause by spoking, it will not come out
    by loosening spokes, because to affect braking it would be a
    permanent (plastic) deformation.

    Quoted message said:

    absolute rubbish!!! rims elastically distort as a direct result of
    spoke tension!!! that is /not/ plastic deformation!!! how you gave
    the gall to make this stuff up amazes me.

    This would have to be a change in the cross section of the rim, not a
    wave of out-of-trueness. Therefore, it would be a permanent
    distortion because for it to affect braking its amplitude would need
    to be larger than a few thousandths of an inch, the limit for elastic
    deformation transverse to the length of the rim.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Spoke pattern shadows in anodizing on brake tracks is common

    Quoted message said:

    true.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    but it never has caused brake shudder as one might imagine.

    Quoted message said:

    more jobstian rubbish. you just can't resist trying to hang a bunch
    of garbage on one small fact can you.

    Instead of that sort of reply, would you please explain why you
    believe this to be so. Before machined sidewall, this was the main
    cosmetic complaint I heard for anodized rims but I never heard anyone
    say it made the braking shudder.

    Jobst Brandt

  10. Quoted message said:

    Southern Comfort writes:

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    more jobstian rubbish. you just can't resist trying to hang a bunch
    of garbage on one small fact can you.

    Instead of that sort of reply, would you please explain why you
    believe this to be so. Before machined sidewall, this was the main
    cosmetic complaint I heard for anodized rims but I never heard anyone
    say it made the braking shudder.

    Even thick anodising is on the order of tens of microns, is it not? Then
    the deformation (not making comments about plastically or elastically)
    must be on that order of magnitude to get the neat wavy effect for any
    length of time.

    I would imagine that paired-spoke wheels have much less of that kind of
    deformation than regular wheels with the same low number of spokes,
    incidentally.

    Jasper

  11. Quoted message said:
    Southern Comfort said:
    Quoted message said:

    If there is some distortion cause by spoking, it will not come out
    by loosening spokes, because to affect braking it would be a
    permanent (plastic) deformation.

    Quoted message said:

    absolute rubbish!!! rims elastically distort as a direct result of
    spoke tension!!! that is /not/ plastic deformation!!! how you gave
    the gall to make this stuff up amazes me.

    This would have to be a change in the cross section of the rim, not a
    wave of out-of-trueness. Therefore, it would be a permanent
    distortion because for it to affect braking its amplitude would need
    to be larger than a few thousandths of an inch, the limit for elastic
    deformation transverse to the length of the rim.

    eh? why are you confusing true with changes in section??? jobst, look
    at one of these rims. there's a big patch of wear on the anodizing with
    spokes orinted to the near side and a small patch with the spoke doing
    to the far side. that's all spoke-induced elastic distortion. want me
    to post a pic?

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Spoke pattern shadows in anodizing on brake tracks is common

    Quoted message said:

    true.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    but it never has caused brake shudder as one might imagine.

    Quoted message said:

    more jobstian rubbish. you just can't resist trying to hang a bunch
    of garbage on one small fact can you.

    Instead of that sort of reply, would you please explain why you
    believe this to be so. Before machined sidewall, this was the main
    cosmetic complaint I heard for anodized rims but I never heard anyone
    say it made the braking shudder.

    er, if you have a partially worn rim with pathces of what amounts to two
    different materials being present at different locations around a rim's
    circumference, and each material has a different coefficient of
    friction, are you telling me you seriously don't see any periodic change
    in the force exerted on the caliper as the rim passes through???

    Quoted message said:


    Jobst Brandt

  12. Threeducks said:
    Phil said:

    I built up a stupid-light 1420g MTB disc/v-brake wheelset using Sun
    UFO rims. They're a 395g claimed weight, but they ended up being
    360g each, about a 10% underweight.

    After building it up with ~100kgf tension, I test-rode it using
    v-brakes with abysmal results. The bad results were from the wheel
    width not being constant or something, so as I brake, the whole bike
    shudders when it encounters what seems to be every other spoke. This is
    more pronounced on the front, I would guess as a result of
    the pretty significant dish on the front wheel. The wheel is very
    true on the stand and I can barely see any sort of warping of the
    rim as it spins.

    Is it true vertically, or does it have a hump in it? If it's out of
    true in the vertical direction, it will shudder when you brake,
    regardless of how true it is in the side-to-side direction.

    Nope, this is a new wheelset I built. This isn't a single hump. We're
    talking 16 (or so) tire-skid-inducing vibrations on each revolution. Maybe
    not 16, but it's quite obvious that it occurs at spoke holes.

    --
    Phil, Squid-in-Training

  13. Squid-in-Training said:
    Threeducks said:
    Phil said:

    I built up a stupid-light 1420g MTB disc/v-brake wheelset using Sun
    UFO rims. They're a 395g claimed weight, but they ended up being
    360g each, about a 10% underweight.

    After building it up with ~100kgf tension, I test-rode it using
    v-brakes with abysmal results. The bad results were from the wheel
    width not being constant or something, so as I brake, the whole bike
    shudders when it encounters what seems to be every other spoke. This is
    more pronounced on the front, I would guess as a result of
    the pretty significant dish on the front wheel. The wheel is very
    true on the stand and I can barely see any sort of warping of the
    rim as it spins.

    Is it true vertically, or does it have a hump in it? If it's out of
    true in the vertical direction, it will shudder when you brake,
    regardless of how true it is in the side-to-side direction.

    Nope, this is a new wheelset I built. This isn't a single hump. We're
    talking 16 (or so) tire-skid-inducing vibrations on each revolution. Maybe
    not 16, but it's quite obvious that it occurs at spoke holes.

    Dear Phil,

    Dumb question, but if the bare wheel is true on the stand,
    have you checked it on the stand with a fully inflated tire
    mounted?

    Carl Fogel

  14. jim beam said:
    Phil said:

    I built up a stupid-light 1420g MTB disc/v-brake wheelset using Sun
    UFO rims. They're a 395g claimed weight, but they ended up being
    360g each, about a 10% underweight.

    After building it up with ~100kgf tension, I test-rode it using
    v-brakes with abysmal results. The bad results were from the wheel
    width not being constant or something, so as I brake, the whole bike
    shudders when it encounters what seems to be every other spoke. This is
    more pronounced on the front, I would guess as a result of
    the pretty significant dish on the front wheel. The wheel is very
    true on the stand and I can barely see any sort of warping of the
    rim as it spins. My question: are the rims warping from them being too
    light? Would
    it be alleviated by reducing tension? I would venture to guess that
    it would eventually stop once I rode it through enough mud to grind
    off enough material on the sides to make it constant-width.

    In case you're wondering, the hubs I used were WTB Laserdisc Lite
    disc hubs, which were the lightest and cheapest of any disc or
    non-disc mountain hubs. I'm using this wheelset for light weight, so
    v-brakes only.

    i'm with dianne on this one. the frequency of the whole bike
    juddering is orders of magnitude below the frequency of spoke
    encounter.

    But that's what I'm talking about. I'm talking super-jerky braking, so much
    that it would lock the rear wheel 16 times each revolution. I'm going to go
    back and double-check that it correlates with the spoke holes, but I'm
    pretty sure this is the case.

    Quoted message said:

    in principle, yes, you do get some small elastic distortion of a rim
    due to spoke tension, but it should be small in relation to the
    flexibility of the brake pad rubber and the length of the brake pad
    block. this distortion /will/ be slightly exaggerated if the rim is
    lighter than normal, but i doubt it's likely to be an issue. it's
    also possible for the rims to be subject to some kind of manufacuring
    defect where the brake tracks are not parallel but again, that's not
    likely.

    This is a machined, then painted, rim. The paint very clearly and uniformly
    shows the machining marks underneath.

    Quoted message said:

    bottom line, check the braking system. if you can see the frame flex
    when you squeeze the rear brake hard, consider one of those horseshoe
    reinforcer braces. one of those cured a rear brake judder on a light
    steel mtb frame i have.

    I've had Rhyno Lites (550g rim) and Mavic x221 (probably 450g or so) rims,
    both handbuilt by me, on the same frame, with never a problem. I'm
    currently having the issue with both front and rear wheels. The fork is a
    RockShox Duke, but it also does it on the rigid fork I have.

    --
    Phil, Squid-in-Training

  15. Phil said:
    jim beam said:
    Phil said:

    I built up a stupid-light 1420g MTB disc/v-brake wheelset using Sun
    UFO rims. They're a 395g claimed weight, but they ended up being
    360g each, about a 10% underweight.

    After building it up with ~100kgf tension, I test-rode it using
    v-brakes with abysmal results. The bad results were from the wheel
    width not being constant or something, so as I brake, the whole bike
    shudders when it encounters what seems to be every other spoke. This is
    more pronounced on the front, I would guess as a result of
    the pretty significant dish on the front wheel. The wheel is very
    true on the stand and I can barely see any sort of warping of the
    rim as it spins. My question: are the rims warping from them being too
    light? Would
    it be alleviated by reducing tension? I would venture to guess that
    it would eventually stop once I rode it through enough mud to grind
    off enough material on the sides to make it constant-width.

    In case you're wondering, the hubs I used were WTB Laserdisc Lite
    disc hubs, which were the lightest and cheapest of any disc or
    non-disc mountain hubs. I'm using this wheelset for light weight, so
    v-brakes only.

    i'm with dianne on this one. the frequency of the whole bike
    juddering is orders of magnitude below the frequency of spoke
    encounter.

    But that's what I'm talking about. I'm talking super-jerky braking, so much
    that it would lock the rear wheel 16 times each revolution. I'm going to go
    back and double-check that it correlates with the spoke holes, but I'm
    pretty sure this is the case.

    Quoted message said:

    in principle, yes, you do get some small elastic distortion of a rim
    due to spoke tension, but it should be small in relation to the
    flexibility of the brake pad rubber and the length of the brake pad
    block. this distortion /will/ be slightly exaggerated if the rim is
    lighter than normal, but i doubt it's likely to be an issue. it's
    also possible for the rims to be subject to some kind of manufacuring
    defect where the brake tracks are not parallel but again, that's not
    likely.

    This is a machined, then painted, rim. The paint very clearly and uniformly
    shows the machining marks underneath.

    ok, in that case, and based on what you say above, see if you can remove
    the paint. or go find a nice muddy hill.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    bottom line, check the braking system. if you can see the frame flex
    when you squeeze the rear brake hard, consider one of those horseshoe
    reinforcer braces. one of those cured a rear brake judder on a light
    steel mtb frame i have.

    I've had Rhyno Lites (550g rim) and Mavic x221 (probably 450g or so) rims,
    both handbuilt by me, on the same frame, with never a problem. I'm
    currently having the issue with both front and rear wheels. The fork is a
    RockShox Duke, but it also does it on the rigid fork I have.

  16. Quoted message said:
    Squid-in-Training said:
    Threeducks said:

    Phil, Squid-in-Training wrote:
    > I built up a stupid-light 1420g MTB disc/v-brake wheelset using Sun
    > UFO rims. They're a 395g claimed weight, but they ended up being
    > 360g each, about a 10% underweight.
    >
    > After building it up with ~100kgf tension, I test-rode it using
    > v-brakes with abysmal results. The bad results were from the wheel
    > width not being constant or something, so as I brake, the whole
    > bike shudders when it encounters what seems to be every other
    > spoke. This is more pronounced on the front, I would guess as a
    > result of
    > the pretty significant dish on the front wheel. The wheel is very
    > true on the stand and I can barely see any sort of warping of the
    > rim as it spins.

    Is it true vertically, or does it have a hump in it? If it's out of
    true in the vertical direction, it will shudder when you brake,
    regardless of how true it is in the side-to-side direction.

    Nope, this is a new wheelset I built. This isn't a single hump.
    We're talking 16 (or so) tire-skid-inducing vibrations on each
    revolution. Maybe not 16, but it's quite obvious that it occurs at
    spoke holes.

    Dear Phil,

    Dumb question, but if the bare wheel is true on the stand,
    have you checked it on the stand with a fully inflated tire
    mounted?

    Yep. Were you thinking reduced spoke tension or the bowing out due to air
    pressure would cause a problem?

    --
    Phil, Squid-in-Training

  17. Squid-in-Training said:
    Quoted message said:
    Squid-in-Training said:

    Threeducks wrote:
    > Phil, Squid-in-Training wrote:
    >> I built up a stupid-light 1420g MTB disc/v-brake wheelset using Sun
    >> UFO rims. They're a 395g claimed weight, but they ended up being
    >> 360g each, about a 10% underweight.
    >>
    >> After building it up with ~100kgf tension, I test-rode it using
    >> v-brakes with abysmal results. The bad results were from the wheel
    >> width not being constant or something, so as I brake, the whole
    >> bike shudders when it encounters what seems to be every other
    >> spoke. This is more pronounced on the front, I would guess as a
    >> result of
    >> the pretty significant dish on the front wheel. The wheel is very
    >> true on the stand and I can barely see any sort of warping of the
    >> rim as it spins.
    >
    > Is it true vertically, or does it have a hump in it? If it's out of
    > true in the vertical direction, it will shudder when you brake,
    > regardless of how true it is in the side-to-side direction.

    Nope, this is a new wheelset I built. This isn't a single hump.
    We're talking 16 (or so) tire-skid-inducing vibrations on each
    revolution. Maybe not 16, but it's quite obvious that it occurs at
    spoke holes.

    Dear Phil,

    Dumb question, but if the bare wheel is true on the stand,
    have you checked it on the stand with a fully inflated tire
    mounted?

    Yep. Were you thinking reduced spoke tension or the bowing out due to air
    pressure would cause a problem?

    Dear Phil,

    Really just wondering if that had been eliminated. Sounds as
    if it has.

    If I understand things, the rim seems true enough on the
    stand even with an inflated tire, but the brake seems to
    grab the sidewalls as if they aren't true.

    The brakes would (I think) take a little lateral wobble in
    stride, so . . .

    Either the rim's sidewalls are symmetrically bulging in (or
    out), presumably at the spokes, enough to grab the brakes,
    but not enough for you to see on the truing stand.

    Or the sidewall surface has been scraped or somehow changed
    between the spokes so that the grab is due to a new surface,
    not bulging in or out.

    Or both.

    Carl Fogel

  18. Phil said:

    I built up a stupid-light 1420g MTB disc/v-brake wheelset using Sun UFO
    rims. They're a 395g claimed weight, but they ended up being 360g each,
    about a 10% underweight.

    After building it up with ~100kgf tensio n, I test-rode it using v-brakes
    with abysmal results. The bad results were from the wheel width not being
    constant or something, so as I brake, the whole bike shudders when it
    encounters what seems to be every other spoke. This is more pronounced on
    the front, I would guess as a result of the pretty significant dish on the
    front wheel. The wheel is very true on the stand and I can barely see any
    sort of warping of the rim as it spins.

    1. Why is the front wheel dished?
    2. Try taking a caliper to the rim to check for constant cross-section
    width. If you don't have a dial caliper or micrometer, you can use the
    brake pads, get them to almost touching and rotate the wheel, see if
    the gap opens or closes.
    3. If not, i.e. if the section is in fact constant, run your fingers
    along the track, or again with the brake pads, this time just touching,
    and see if the coefficient of friction changes- if so, check for some
    defect in the paint surface.
    4. If the section is not constant: these are very light rims with thin
    sidewalls and V-brakes have a lot leverage. Is it enough to deform the
    cross-section under load?

  19. jim beam said:

    eh? why are you confusing true with changes in section??? jobst, look
    at one of these rims. there's a big patch of wear on the anodizing with
    spokes orinted to the near side and a small patch with the spoke doing
    to the far side. that's all spoke-induced elastic distortion. want me
    to post a pic?

    Please post the pic so that we lesser mortals know what you are talking
    about.

    Jasper

  20. Phil said:

    I built up a stupid-light 1420g MTB disc/v-brake wheelset using Sun UFO
    rims. They're a 395g claimed weight, but they ended up being 360g each,
    about a 10% underweight.

    After building it up with ~100kgf tension, I test-rode it using v-brakes
    with abysmal results. The bad results were from the wheel width not being
    constant or something, so as I brake, the whole bike shudders when it
    encounters what seems to be every other spoke. This is more pronounced on
    the front, I would guess as a result of the pretty significant dish on the
    front wheel. The wheel is very true on the stand and I can barely see any
    sort of warping of the rim as it spins.

    My question: are the rims warping from them being too light? Would it be
    alleviated by reducing tension? I would venture to guess that it would
    eventually stop once I rode it through enough mud to grind off enough
    material on the sides to make it constant-width.

    In case you're wondering, the hubs I used were WTB Laserdisc Lite disc hubs,
    which were the lightest and cheapest of any disc or non-disc mountain hubs.
    I'm using this wheelset for light weight, so v-brakes only.

    Perhaps the problem is in the brake, grabing, flexing, winding up and
    springing back, kinda chattering back and forth at frequency of 16 times
    a revolution.

    Are the brake mounting studs set very wide for this narrow rim?

    Check the bushings, watch the brake arms.

    Try a different brake.

    -Marcus

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