Carl Fogel said:Looking at bicycle brake levers, I'm wondering if they're
mounted backwards and pointing the wrong way.
Our strongest fingers grab the lever nearest the pivot, as
if we're trying to work a car jack handle by stepping on it
where it attaches to the jack.
I notice that all my fingers tend to slide down toward the
end of the lever for more leverage.
Obviously, the design that puts the free end of the lever
toward the outside of a straight handlebar (or sticking down
on a ram's-horn bar) makes the cables easy to route.
But is there any other reason for this bad-leverage
approach, which gives my feeble pinkies lots of leverage at
the expense of my powerful index fingers:
You're correct as far as the typical setup is concerned. There are
levers that work the other way, commonly called "reverse levers."
See: http://harriscyclery.net/site/page.cfm?PageID=49&Category=172&type=T
Paradoxically, these are most often seen installed in cowhorn
handlebars, where they get doubly reversed, resulting in the same problem.
My old Solex moped used to have similar levers set up as you suggest,
they worked great.
Part of the problem with this is the idea of using 4 fingers on the
lever. This is not commonly necessary. Decent brakes work fine with 3
fingers, and better quality brakes often only require 1 or 2 fingers.
A pet peeve of mine is that most folks install the brake levers too far
outboard. Typical MTB brake levers work better (and are less liable to
suffer damage in a crash) if there's an inch or so betwen the lever
clamp and the handlebar clip. Try it if you don't believe me.
Unfortunately, the silly fad for riser bars makes it impossible to mount
the levers this way on many newer bikes, because the useless extra bend
gets in the way.
Sheldon "Ranting" Brown
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