Disassembling Campy Front Hub

"Joe Riel" <[email hidden]> wrote in message "]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Any clues on how to disassemble a Record front hub? I've read the service bulletin on Campy's
website, but there appears to be a glaring omission.

Page 21 of the instructions (available at campagnolo.comtechinfo.phpOpen ↗) says:

"Push the axle toward the hub body and slide it fully out of the hub."

That does not seem to be possible. The axle doesn't move sideways. I've removed the nut (A) and
lockring (C) per the instructions. The ring (D) appears to be preventing the axle from moving,
however, I see no way to get it off. The instructions say to remove it after removing the axle.

Thanks for any advice,

Just give it a whack.

--
Robin Hubert <[email hidden]

Robin Hubert said:

"Joe Riel" <[email hidden]> wrote in message "]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Any clues on how to disassemble a Record front hub? I've read the service bulletin on Campy's
website, but there appears to be a glaring omission.

Page 21 of the instructions (available at campagnolo.comtechinfo.phpOpen ↗) says:

"Push the axle toward the hub body and slide it fully out of the hub."

That does not seem to be possible. The axle doesn't move sideways. I've removed the nut (A) and
lockring (C) per the instructions. The ring (D) appears to be preventing the axle from moving,
however, I see no way to get it off. The instructions say to remove it after removing the axle.

Thanks for any advice,

Just give it a whack.

I tried that, with a rubber mallet. Maybe I have to hit it a lot harder, but from the look of it,
it seems unlikely that doing so will be successful. Are the bearings pushed through/around the
rubber shield?

Joe

Joe Riel said:

"Push the axle toward the hub body and slide it fully out of the hub."

That does not seem to be possible. The axle doesn't move sideways. I've removed the nut (A) and
lockring (C) per the instructions. The ring (D) appears to be preventing the axle from moving,
however, I see no way to get it off. The instructions say to remove it after removing the axle.

There is no ommission but I think the order of the instructions is wrong. I remove ring (D) before
the axle. It's tight but it can be pulled out with fingernails or long nose plyers. It's a split
ring so it helps to squeeze the split together as you pull (and insert when it comes to that) if
using fingers (don't for plyers).

Maybe that's now how you're supposed to do it but it works well for me.

~PB

I said:

There is no ommission but I think the order of the instructions is wrong.

On second thoughts, I think the instructions are correct in that the ring would be forced off when
the axle is bashed out. Still, I prefer my method of pulling the ring out first.

~PB

Pete Biggs said:

There is no ommission but I think the order of the instructions is wrong. I remove ring (D) before
the axle. It's tight but it can be pulled out with fingernails or long nose plyers. It's a split
ring so it helps to squeeze the split together as you pull (and insert when it comes to that) if
using fingers (don't for plyers).

Just so we're clear, by (D) you mean the split aluminum piece with the flange [not the bigger split
aluminum piece with the 2.5mm allen screw]. Because it's split, wouldn't it be appropriate to try to
spread it [not squeeze it] for removal? I did try to spread it with a screwdriver, no luck. It
doesn't move. So far as tapping on the axle, as others have mentioned, that isn't going to cut it.
I've tapped a lot on it. I'm reluctant to start pounding on it, but that will be the next step.

I'm guessing that the purpose of the flange is to provide a lip for the gasket (F). Presumably, the
outer diameter of the flange will pass through the inner diameter of the cone; however, if gasket
material is in the way, this could be a problem.

Joe

"Joe Riel" <[email hidden]> wrote in message "]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Robin Hubert said:

"Joe Riel" <[email hidden]> wrote in message "]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Any clues on how to disassemble a Record front hub? I've read the service bulletin on Campy's
website, but there appears to be a glaring omission.

Page 21 of the instructions (available at campagnolo.comtechinfo.phpOpen ↗) says:

"Push the axle toward the hub body and slide it fully out of the hub."

That does not seem to be possible. The axle doesn't move sideways. I've removed the nut (A)
and lockring (C) per the instructions. The ring (D) appears to be preventing the axle from
moving, however, I see no way to get it off. The instructions say to remove it after removing
the axle.

Thanks for any advice,

Just give it a whack.

I tried that, with a rubber mallet. Maybe I have to hit it a lot harder, but from the look of it,
it seems unlikely that doing so will be successful. Are the bearings pushed through/around the
rubber shield?

Yes, a bigger whack. Actually, I prefer to hold the wheel horizontally and 'pop' the axle against a
wood block or linoleum benchtop. I have shot the whole assembly across the floor using a mallet.

--
Robin Hubert <[email hidden]

"Joe Riel" <[email hidden]> wrote in message "]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Robin Hubert said:

"Joe Riel" <[email hidden]> wrote in message "]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Any clues on how to disassemble a Record front hub? I've read the service bulletin on Campy's
website, but there appears to be a glaring omission.

Page 21 of the instructions (available at campagnolo.comtechinfo.phpOpen ↗) says:

"Push the axle toward the hub body and slide it fully out of the hub."

That does not seem to be possible. The axle doesn't move sideways. I've removed the nut (A)
and lockring (C) per the instructions. The ring (D) appears to be preventing the axle from
moving, however, I see no way to get it off. The instructions say to remove it after removing
the axle.

Thanks for any advice,

Just give it a whack.

I tried that, with a rubber mallet. Maybe I have to hit it a lot harder, but from the look of it,
it seems unlikely that doing so will be successful. Are the bearings pushed through/around the
rubber shield?

Oh, once the axle/freehub assembly is out, the bearings are in retainers hiding behind a snap-in
dust seal that you can pop out with a screwdriver. Pusing this seal back on is the most difficult
part of the hub overhaul as it wants to flip, and is (minimally) difficult to pop in squarely.

--
Robin Hubert <[email hidden]

Joe Riel said:

Just so we're clear, by (D) you mean the split aluminum piece with the flange

Yes - www.campagnolo.com/pdf/177-FI%20Mozzi%20Ant%202000.pdf - page 11, part D: "ring"

Quoted message said:

[not the bigger split aluminum piece with the 2.5mm allen screw].

No. That is removed first (unscrewed).

Quoted message said:

Because it's split, wouldn't it be appropriate to try to spread it [not squeeze it] for removal?

I don't think so because the ring's diameter will reduce when the split is closed up - but try
whatever you think is best. No need to do either when using plyers - just grab and pull.

To be clear on the direction, I mean pulled outwards away from the gasket and cone, towards the left
according the diagram, not pushed in.

Don't be afraid to use considerable force if you can get hold of the thing.

Quoted message said:

I did try to spread it with a screwdriver, no luck. It doesn't move. So far as tapping on the
axle, as others have mentioned, that isn't going to cut it. I've tapped a lot on it. I'm reluctant
to start pounding on it, but that will be the next step.

I'm guessing that the purpose of the flange is to provide a lip for the gasket (F).

I think so. It also stops the ring getting stuck or pushed in there if the ring has any
other purpose.

Quoted message said:

Presumably, the outer diameter of the flange will pass through the inner diameter of the cone

No, it's going to come out in the other direction either when pulled or after axle is forced
through it.

~PB

Well, I've successfully disassembled the hub. I used a small hammer with a maple block to knock the
axle out, it came out easily.

The internals were quite clean---I've put around 10K miles on the hub---but, alas, the cones had
fretting damage. So I'll replace them. In the mean time, I used a fine stone to smooth out the
rough spots.

After cleaning I reassembled the hub, lubricated the bearings, and, using a broken axle and cone
from an old Super Record hub, adjusted the cone tightness with the axle precompressed. Despite the
fretting damage, it still felt quite smooth. The only hitch during the reassembly is that I forgot
to install the thin washer that lies between the lockring and nut, so I had to remove and reinstall
the nut, and readjust the bearing tightness.

Thanks for the help,

Joe Riel