Differences in Derailleur Quality

Quoted post said:

Originally posted by jmgradon
I would like some comments on what the difference is in quality as you move up the payscale on derailleurs. I understand, of course, that there is a big difference between Shimano Sora components and the next step up, the Tiagra. Sora cannot be shifted from the drops. But what are the essential differences between Tiagra and 105 and so on. Specifically, are the more expensive components better mechanically? Are they more durable? Are they simply lighter? Or is it some combination of the above? In other words, what exactly are you getting for all that extra money?

Pivots are lower in friction as you move up. This provides easier shifting.
DURA ACE has the best sealed Bearing Pulleys that provides longer lasting and smoother chain passage.
Durability seems to improve as you move up through the models.
Which ever RD you choose, keep them clean and wipe off excess lubrication. Check you cable and housings and keep the adjustments exact.

Quoted post said:

Originally posted by jmgradon
I would like some comments on what the difference is in quality as you move up the payscale on derailleurs. I understand, of course, that there is a big difference between Shimano Sora components and the next step up, the Tiagra. Sora cannot be shifted from the drops. But what are the essential differences between Tiagra and 105 and so on. Specifically, are the more expensive components better mechanically? Are they more durable? Are they simply lighter? Or is it some combination of the above? In other words, what exactly are you getting for all that extra money?

Lighter and more precision. Durability is a stinky fish,dependent on too many variable to generalize about. some will never even use the less expensive enough to get it dirty or break it in ,much less ever wear it out.

Spend your bucks on the rear derailleur. Next up would be shifters followed in priority by brakes. So in theory a DA rear with Ultegra shifters and 105 brakes. There's not a huge difference between the cost of 105 and Ultegra anyway so it could be a moot point.

Quoted post said:

Originally posted by capwater
Spend your bucks on the rear derailleur. Next up would be shifters followed in priority by brakes. So in theory a DA rear with Ultegra shifters and 105 brakes. There's not a huge difference between the cost of 105 and Ultegra anyway so it could be a moot point.

C*appy imprecise shifters won't make a dpecision RD dance a happier tune.

Quoted post said:

Originally posted by jmgradon
I would like some comments on what the difference is in quality as you move up the payscale on derailleurs. I understand, of course, that there is a big difference between Shimano Sora components and the next step up, the Tiagra. Sora cannot be shifted from the drops. But what are the essential differences between Tiagra and 105 and so on. Specifically, are the more expensive components better mechanically? Are they more durable? Are they simply lighter? Or is it some combination of the above? In other words, what exactly are you getting for all that extra money?

I'd say some of all of the above, plus the more expensive stuff justs works better and feels better in use. You might want to go test ride a 105 or Ultegra bike, see if you can feel any difference in the shifting and braking that you would be willing to pay for.

With the amount of time and money a lot of us spend on cycling, the cost of the component group isn't a major expense anyway. Tires, wheels, shoes, clothes, entry fees and travel...those are what can start to add up over the seasons.

Dan

90% of it matters what you plan to do with the bike--- what kind of riding, how far, how fast. Most all derailers last a long time, I have ones 35 years old that work fine. They are pretty clunky however, but they we're like that when they were new. Most of the time, cheaper derailers and shifters are just fine for most riders.

If you want to race or do lots of long road rides.... go with the 105 stuff. It's not all that pricey and less likely to be ripped off than any campy stuff. Get a used frame even if you're worried about money and still want a smoother shifting bike.

Yes, my Simplex derailleurs from 1974 still work fine on the old bike. The rear is mostly plastic, and I remember being concerned if it would hold up when I bought the bike.

Dan