Derailleur chain clatter.

"N Cook" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

How to rectify , without using a link removing tool ?
I do own one but , for just an aesthetic problem , I would rather not risk
breaking the high carbon steel pin.

Once a chain revolution at one point in the chain it takes up the set of
the
chainwheel rather than hangs loose through the derailleur.
No tooth jumping as it is pulled straight in the forced part of the chain.
I've tried WD40, just too small screwdriver twisted in the smaller link
gap
, slightly bigger one tried similarly in the larger link gaps, a pair of
mole grips either side of the offending ones and bending in an outways
sense.
Somewhere in the above bodging, i've reduced , but not elliminated the
problem , and don't know which one produced an improvement to try again.

That doesn't translate so well I'm afraid. Might be worth posting in polish
and see if someone can translate.

Bending the chain with tools is generally bad news. If you are worried about
moving a chain link this is what you need:

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=871

Also, make sure the noise is not caused by poor adjustment of rear mech.

Jc

N Cook said:

How to rectify , without using a link removing tool ?
I do own one but , for just an aesthetic problem , I would rather not
risk breaking the high carbon steel pin.

Once a chain revolution at one point in the chain it takes up the set
of the chainwheel rather than hangs loose through the derailleur.
No tooth jumping as it is pulled straight in the forced part of the
chain. I've tried WD40, just too small screwdriver twisted in the
smaller link gap , slightly bigger one tried similarly in the larger
link gaps, a pair of mole grips either side of the offending ones and
bending in an outways sense.
Somewhere in the above bodging, i've reduced , but not elliminated the
problem , and don't know which one produced an improvement to try
again.

Remove offending link, fit powerlink. Or buy a new chain.

--
Mike
Van Tuyl titanium Dura ace 10
Fausto Coppi aluminium Ultegra 10
Raleigh Record sprint mongrel
Huissoon project bike (in bits, natch)

On Sun, 28 Oct 2007 11:15:31 -0000, "N Cook" <[email hidden]>

Quoted message said:

How to rectify , without using a link removing tool ?
I do own one but , for just an aesthetic problem , I would rather not risk
breaking the high carbon steel pin.

Once a chain revolution at one point in the chain it takes up the set of the
chainwheel rather than hangs loose through the derailleur.
No tooth jumping as it is pulled straight in the forced part of the chain.
I've tried WD40, just too small screwdriver twisted in the smaller link gap
, slightly bigger one tried similarly in the larger link gaps, a pair of
mole grips either side of the offending ones and bending in an outways
sense.
Somewhere in the above bodging, i've reduced , but not elliminated the
problem , and don't know which one produced an improvement to try again.

From your description you have a stiff link. A chin tool can alleviate
this without the need for breaking and rejoining the chain - use the
"higher" of teset of supports, such that the chain is supported on one
side only, give the tool a small twist and the chain plate is moved
ever so slightly apart from its neighbour.

You may be able to do it without tools. Grab the chain with both hands
and flex it sideways - 90 degrees to the way it normally bends.

--

Tim

fast and gripping, non pompous, glossy and credible.

Tim Hall <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

On Sun, 28 Oct 2007 11:15:31 -0000, "N Cook" <[email hidden]>

Quoted message said:

How to rectify , without using a link removing tool ?
I do own one but , for just an aesthetic problem , I would rather not

risk

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

breaking the high carbon steel pin.

Once a chain revolution at one point in the chain it takes up the set of

the

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

chainwheel rather than hangs loose through the derailleur.
No tooth jumping as it is pulled straight in the forced part of the

chain.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

I've tried WD40, just too small screwdriver twisted in the smaller link

gap

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

, slightly bigger one tried similarly in the larger link gaps, a pair of
mole grips either side of the offending ones and bending in an outways
sense.
Somewhere in the above bodging, i've reduced , but not elliminated the
problem , and don't know which one produced an improvement to try again.

From your description you have a stiff link. A chin tool can alleviate
this without the need for breaking and rejoining the chain - use the
"higher" of teset of supports, such that the chain is supported on one
side only, give the tool a small twist and the chain plate is moved
ever so slightly apart from its neighbour.

You may be able to do it without tools. Grab the chain with both hands
and flex it sideways - 90 degrees to the way it normally bends.

--

Tim

fast and gripping, non pompous, glossy and credible.

I will try padding up, under the chain with books and a plastic sheet, to
keep the chain in line in one plane , find some latex gloves, and try
bending in the cross-wise sense, in the region of the dodgy link/s.

N Cook said:

How to rectify , without using a link removing tool ?
I do own one but , for just an aesthetic problem , I would rather not
risk breaking the high carbon steel pin.

Once a chain revolution at one point in the chain it takes up the set
of the chainwheel rather than hangs loose through the derailleur.
No tooth jumping as it is pulled straight in the forced part of the
chain. I've tried WD40, just too small screwdriver twisted in the
smaller link gap , slightly bigger one tried similarly in the larger
link gaps, a pair of mole grips either side of the offending ones and
bending in an outways sense.
Somewhere in the above bodging, i've reduced , but not elliminated the
problem , and don't know which one produced an improvement to try
again.

http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=53

~PB

Tim Hall <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

On Sun, 28 Oct 2007 11:15:31 -0000, "N Cook" <[email hidden]>

Quoted message said:

How to rectify , without using a link removing tool ?
I do own one but , for just an aesthetic problem , I would rather not

risk

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

breaking the high carbon steel pin.

Once a chain revolution at one point in the chain it takes up the set of

the

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

chainwheel rather than hangs loose through the derailleur.
No tooth jumping as it is pulled straight in the forced part of the

chain.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

I've tried WD40, just too small screwdriver twisted in the smaller link

gap

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

, slightly bigger one tried similarly in the larger link gaps, a pair of
mole grips either side of the offending ones and bending in an outways
sense.
Somewhere in the above bodging, i've reduced , but not elliminated the
problem , and don't know which one produced an improvement to try again.

From your description you have a stiff link. A chin tool can alleviate
this without the need for breaking and rejoining the chain - use the
"higher" of teset of supports, such that the chain is supported on one
side only, give the tool a small twist and the chain plate is moved
ever so slightly apart from its neighbour.

You may be able to do it without tools. Grab the chain with both hands
and flex it sideways - 90 degrees to the way it normally bends.

--

Tim

fast and gripping, non pompous, glossy and credible.

problem no more.
All you need is a pair of gloves and a bit of chalk to mark the offending
link/s and gradually increase the amount og hand force applied each attempt.
The chain does not collapse out of line when so bending laterally.