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Daytona 2000 brakes

Started by Kenneth Clements · · Last activity · 7 posts · 545 views

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UK and Europe
Published
8 May 2007
Last activity
10 May 2007
Original author
Kenneth Clements
Posts
7
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  1. Hi all

    I need to replace the blocks on my Campag Daytona 2000 caliper brakes. I
    have found I need RE600 cartridge type blocks. The gap in one end of the
    metal housing seems impossibly small and I have tried hard to push the
    rubber block out without success. Has anyone any tips on how to replace the
    blocks? I could use Aztec complete blocks but they use a nut instead of a
    hex screw so I would need to carry a spanner which I would rather not do.

    TIA, Ken.

  2. Kenneth Clements said:

    Hi all

    I need to replace the blocks on my Campag Daytona 2000 caliper
    brakes. I have found I need RE600 cartridge type blocks. The gap in
    one end of the metal housing seems impossibly small and I have tried
    hard to push the rubber block out without success. Has anyone any
    tips on how to replace the blocks?

    How about some lube?

    Quoted message said:

    I could use Aztec complete blocks
    but they use a nut instead of a hex screw so I would need to carry a
    spanner which I would rather not do.

    Kool Stop make some nice allen-key cartridge type blocks and really good
    pads. Refills slide very easily into the Kool Stop "Dura" holders. Some
    Campag brakes need the slots filing slightly wider to take them.

    ~PB

  3. In article <[email hidden]>, Kenneth Clements
    [email hidden] says...

    Quoted message said:

    Hi all

    I need to replace the blocks on my Campag Daytona 2000 caliper brakes. I
    have found I need RE600 cartridge type blocks. The gap in one end of the
    metal housing seems impossibly small and I have tried hard to push the
    rubber block out without success.

    The gap is just to get a screwdriver in so you can lever the block out.
    You might find it easier to grip the end of the block in a vice and push
    down on the shoe:

    |
    |
    \|/
    ___V___________________________
    / \
    /_________________________________\________________________
    \ | |
    \______________________| |
    | |
    | |
    \ /
    \ /
    | |

    Lube the new blocks with talc or washing up liquid before pressing them
    in.

  4. Rob Morley said:

    The gap is just to get a screwdriver in so you can lever the block out.

    Is the right answer!

    I use a small flat bladed screwdriver (that I don't use for screws any
    more). Force that in from the open end, leavering the block up as
    you go. You'll find that once you've got the screwdriver about
    half way down, the block will just pop out.

    For inserting the new one, lube is essential. I use WD40 or similar
    myself, which makes it easy(ish) to get in. Theoretically this could
    rot the block, but I've never had any problems. I think it evaporates
    quickly enough that it doesn't matter.

    Arthur

    --
    Arthur Clune PGP/GPG Key: http://www.clune.org/pubkey.txt
    The struggle of people against power is the struggle
    of memory against forgetting - Milan Kundera

  5. "Kenneth Clements" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    Hi all

    I need to replace the blocks on my Campag Daytona 2000 caliper brakes. I
    have found I need RE600 cartridge type blocks. The gap in one end of the
    metal housing seems impossibly small and I have tried hard to push the
    rubber block out without success. Has anyone any tips on how to replace
    the blocks? I could use Aztec complete blocks but they use a nut instead
    of a hex screw so I would need to carry a spanner which I would rather not
    do.


    Thanks for the replies. Nice to know how it's done. Thinking of using
    washing-up liquid as a lub unless someone says it's a bad idea.

    Ken.

  6. In news:[email hidden],
    Kenneth Clements <[email hidden]> tweaked the Babbage-Engine
    to tell us:

    Quoted message said:

    Thanks for the replies. Nice to know how it's done. Thinking of using
    washing-up liquid as a lub unless someone says it's a bad idea.

    All that salt in it will cause your brakes instantly to dissolve...

    <g,d&r>

    --
    Dave Larrington
    <http://www.legslarry.beerdrinkers.co.uk>
    The onward interchange factor will be unity except for journeys
    to Chesham, Croxley or Watford.

  7. in message <[email hidden]>, Pete Biggs

    (') said:
    Kenneth Clements said:

    Hi all

    I need to replace the blocks on my Campag Daytona 2000 caliper
    brakes. I have found I need RE600 cartridge type blocks. The gap in
    one end of the metal housing seems impossibly small and I have tried
    hard to push the rubber block out without success. Has anyone any
    tips on how to replace the blocks?

    How about some lube?

    Lever with a screwdriver from the closed end.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    I could use Aztec complete blocks
    but they use a nut instead of a hex screw so I would need to carry a
    spanner which I would rather not do.

    Kool Stop make some nice allen-key cartridge type blocks and really good
    pads. Refills slide very easily into the Kool Stop "Dura" holders. Some
    Campag brakes need the slots filing slightly wider to take them.

    Aren't Daytona brakes essentially identical to Centaurs? In which case the
    real thing is here:

    http://www.wiggle.co.uk/ProductDetail.aspx?Cat=cycle&ProdID=5360009235

    and the widely preferred Kool Stop Salmons are here:

    http://www.wiggle.co.uk/ProductDetail.aspx?Cat=cycle&ProdID=5300003402

    --
    [email hidden] (Simon Brooke) http://www.jasmine.org.uk/~simon/

    X-no-archive: No, I'm not *that* naive.

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