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Damaged rear mech

Started by Pete Biggs · · Last activity · 6 posts · 736 views

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Original section
UK and Europe
Published
12 May 2008
Last activity
13 May 2008
Original author
Pete Biggs
Posts
6
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Public discussion
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  1. Tom Crispin said:

    I have taken this off one of my pool bikes, an Islabike Beinn 26.
    www.johnballcycling.org.uk/photos/misc/rearmech

    I do not know exactly how it came to get into this state. Possibly
    the hanger bent when the bike was in a high gear after the bike was
    previously dropped, and when the child riding changed into a low gear
    the jockey wheel casing went into the spokes causing the damage.

    As far as I can tell, the only damaged parts are the hanger - I keep a
    stock of spares - and the outer jockey wheel casing. I am able to buy
    a replacement without buying a whole new rear mech? If so, from
    where?

    I don't know, but if the part was available, I wouldn't expect it to be
    much/any cheaper than replacing the whole mech. How about stocking up on
    second-hand Shimano mechs off eBay? These tend to be compatible with most
    things.

    Quoted message said:

    In the longer term I am having maintenence issues with the Beinn 26s.
    The chains appear to have stretched, and in gear 1 one of the jockey
    wheels traps the chain between it and the large sprocket, making a
    funny sound. The mech does have a tensioning screw, but this often
    slips.

    A spot of blue Loctite might help.

    Quoted message said:

    Indeed, on the damaged mech the tensioning screw is completely
    missing.

    Any old screw of the right size will do. It'll be a standard metric thread.

    Quoted message said:

    Will I be able to resolve this issue by removing a link from
    each of the bikes' chains? Is chain wear likely to be the cause? Each
    bike has done about 2000Km in their lifetimes.

    It is possible that the small amount of stretch from 2000k is enough to
    cause the problem if the chain was on the brink of being too long in the
    first place.

    Removing a link would indeed help, but make sure the chain is still long
    enough for the big-big combo to work. You could just try a longer screw
    first.

    ~PB

  2. Rob Morley said:
    Tom Crispin said:

    In the longer term I am having maintenence issues with the Beinn 26s.
    The chains appear to have stretched, and in gear 1 one of the jockey
    wheels traps the chain between it and the large sprocket, making a
    funny sound. The mech does have a tensioning screw, but this often
    slips. Indeed, on the damaged mech the tensioning screw is
    completely missing. Will I be able to resolve this issue by removing
    a link from each of the bikes' chains?

    That doesn't do quite the same thing - the B-tension screw adjusts the
    angle of the parallelogram, chain length affects the attitude of the
    cage. They're interrelated but different.

    They both affect clearance between jockey wheel and sprocket when in bottom
    gear. Scewing in the screw, or removing a link, will increase clearance.

    (I've been there and done that a few times).

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Is chain wear likely to be the cause?

    If the B-tension screw is slipping then thread-lock compound should
    fix it - Loctite 242 or equivalent (medium strength undoable). Chain
    length should normally be adjusted so that you can just run big-big -
    shorter can result in a nasty crunch and longer just leaves
    unnecessary slack on small-small. It's possible that the chains were
    originally a bit long, but wear shouldn't have that much effect.

    Although it was after more than 2000 Km's worth of wear, I've had it happen
    with bikes of mine when I've had to use a chain that was longer than ideal
    for the bottom gear as I was exceeding the mech's capacity.

    I wouldn't be surprised if the chain was originally longer than necessary.

    ~PB

  3. I have taken this off one of my pool bikes, an Islabike Beinn 26.
    www.johnballcycling.org.uk/photos/misc/rearmech

    I do not know exactly how it came to get into this state. Possibly
    the hanger bent when the bike was in a high gear after the bike was
    previously dropped, and when the child riding changed into a low gear
    the jockey wheel casing went into the spokes causing the damage.

    As far as I can tell, the only damaged parts are the hanger - I keep a
    stock of spares - and the outer jockey wheel casing. I am able to buy
    a replacement without buying a whole new rear mech? If so, from
    where?

    In the longer term I am having maintenence issues with the Beinn 26s.
    The chains appear to have stretched, and in gear 1 one of the jockey
    wheels traps the chain between it and the large sprocket, making a
    funny sound. The mech does have a tensioning screw, but this often
    slips. Indeed, on the damaged mech the tensioning screw is completely
    missing. Will I be able to resolve this issue by removing a link from
    each of the bikes' chains? Is chain wear likely to be the cause? Each
    bike has done about 2000Km in their lifetimes.

    Thanks for your help.

  4. "Tom Crispin" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    I have taken this off one of my pool bikes, an Islabike Beinn 26.
    www.johnballcycling.org.uk/photos/misc/rearmech

    I do not know exactly how it came to get into this state. Possibly
    the hanger bent when the bike was in a high gear after the bike was
    previously dropped, and when the child riding changed into a low gear
    the jockey wheel casing went into the spokes causing the damage.

    As far as I can tell, the only damaged parts are the hanger - I keep a
    stock of spares - and the outer jockey wheel casing. I am able to buy
    a replacement without buying a whole new rear mech? If so, from
    where?

    In the longer term I am having maintenence issues with the Beinn 26s.
    The chains appear to have stretched, and in gear 1 one of the jockey
    wheels traps the chain between it and the large sprocket, making a
    funny sound. The mech does have a tensioning screw, but this often
    slips. Indeed, on the damaged mech the tensioning screw is completely
    missing. Will I be able to resolve this issue by removing a link from
    each of the bikes' chains? Is chain wear likely to be the cause? Each
    bike has done about 2000Km in their lifetimes.

    Thanks for your help.

    Only Campagnolo do spares down to component level.

    I've twice put Chorus mechs into my rear spokes. This was due to there not
    being enough chain to cope with the rear mech being accidentally put into
    the large sprocket whilst the chain was on the large chainring. The largest
    diameter that a chain has to cope with is not root diameter of the tooth, it
    is the tip diameter plus the diameter of the chain's barrels. Add a couple
    of links to cope with this.

    --
    David Lloyd
    Time flys when you're having fun.
    Your luggage flys only after you've left Terminal 5.

  5. Tom Crispin said:

    In the longer term I am having maintenence issues with the Beinn 26s.
    The chains appear to have stretched, and in gear 1 one of the jockey
    wheels traps the chain between it and the large sprocket, making a funny
    sound. The mech does have a tensioning screw, but this often slips.
    Indeed, on the damaged mech the tensioning screw is completely missing.
    Will I be able to resolve this issue by removing a link from each of the
    bikes' chains?

    That doesn't do quite the same thing - the B-tension screw adjusts the
    angle of the parallelogram, chain length affects the attitude of the
    cage. They're interrelated but different.

    Quoted message said:

    Is chain wear likely to be the cause?

    If the B-tension screw is slipping then thread-lock compound should fix
    it - Loctite 242 or equivalent (medium strength undoable). Chain length
    should normally be adjusted so that you can just run big-big - shorter
    can result in a nasty crunch and longer just leaves unnecessary slack on
    small-small. It's possible that the chains were originally a bit long,
    but wear shouldn't have that much effect.

  6. Pete Biggs said:

    Rob Morley wrote:

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    That doesn't do quite the same thing - the B-tension screw adjusts the
    angle of the parallelogram, chain length affects the attitude of the
    cage. They're interrelated but different.

    They both affect clearance between jockey wheel and sprocket when in
    bottom gear. Scewing in the screw, or removing a link, will increase
    clearance.

    Shortening the chain increases A-tension, which can have the same effect
    as reducing B-tension (and thus sprocket clearance).

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