DA 10 speed shifter

Andrew F Martin said:

I'm trying to dial-in shifting on my bike. For some reason I can't
seem to get the rear derr to drop to the 11 cog. It's not the limiting
screw since it's all the way backed off, and it's not the cable
tension as its totally loose. Any ideas what the issue might be?

You may need to add a washer to the inside of the locknut on the drive side.

--
Phil, Squid-in-Training

"Phil, Squid-in-Training" wrote: (clip) You may need to add a washer to the
inside of the locknut on the drive side.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Since the stop screw is backed all the way off, and the cable is slack,
maybe the spring has lost tension. Can you make it shift by helping it over
with your finger? It's also possible that you have slack in the cable at
the shifter end, but friction along the cable route which prevents the full
required travel. Or a combination of the two.

Quoted message said:

You may need to add a washer to the inside of the locknut on the

drive side.

I've read something about a washer too, but if i recall right it
should go on the
freewheel body before installing the cassette. I think it should be
used when
using a 10 speed cassette on a 9 speed body.

"Phil, Squid-in-Training" <[email hidden]> wrote
in message news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Andrew F Martin said:

I'm trying to dial-in shifting on my bike. For some reason I

can't

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

seem to get the rear derr to drop to the 11 cog. It's not the

limiting

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

screw since it's all the way backed off, and it's not the cable
tension as its totally loose. Any ideas what the issue might be?

You may need to add a washer to the inside of the locknut on the

drive side.

Quoted message said:

--
Phil, Squid-in-Training

Andrew F Martin said:

I'm trying to dial-in shifting on my bike. For some reason I can't
seem to get the rear derr to drop to the 11 cog. It's not the limiting
screw since it's all the way backed off, and it's not the cable tension
as its totally loose. Any ideas what the issue might be?

Thanks,
-a

A washer between the derailleur and the derailleur hanger will also
work. I had the same problem with a DA rear derailleur on an older
steel frame that had a "thin" derailleur hanger compared to the more
common "thick" aluminum and Ti ones today.

Leo Lichtman said:

"Phil, Squid-in-Training" wrote: (clip) You may need to add a washer

to the

Quoted message said:

inside of the locknut on the drive side.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Since the stop screw is backed all the way off, and the cable is

slack,

Quoted message said:

maybe the spring has lost tension. Can you make it shift by helping

it over

Quoted message said:

with your finger? It's also possible that you have slack in the

cable at

Quoted message said:

the shifter end, but friction along the cable route which prevents

the full

Quoted message said:

required travel. Or a combination of the two.

Good thought - I'll have to check that tonight. I think the SIS
housing cut cleanly, but perhaps the ferule is tight?

It's a brand new frame with a brand new derrailleur. A buddy said it
might be the hanger alignment. I'll have to get that checked too...

It was the hanger it seems, and adjusting the B-Tension helped a little
as well.

Andrew F Martin said:

I'm trying to dial-in shifting on my bike. For some reason I can't
seem to get the rear derr to drop to the 11 cog. It's not the limiting
screw since it's all the way backed off, and it's not the cable tension
as its totally loose. Any ideas what the issue might be?

Just a guess....under the nut where the cable attaches
is a washer with a tab that wraps around. If the tab
is oriented the wrong way, it can get in the way of the
derailleur body. Make sure it's not hitting.

Larry Coon
University of California