Cyclocross wheel recomendation

Quoted post said:

Originally posted by Bill
I'm interested in building an inexpensive but durable pair
of wheels for a cyclocross bike. Configuration suggestions
appreciated. Will be used for rough fire roads and
moderate single track, maybe some newbie racing in the
fall. Bill Brannon

How much do you weigh?
What is the largest tire your frame, fork, etc. will clear?
What is the smallest and largest tire you plan to use?
What is your rear drop-out spacing? (130 or 135 mm)
Is your bicycle set up for Shimano 8/9 speed?

bill-<< I'm interested in building an inexpensive but
durable pair of wheels for a cyclocross bike. Configuration
suggestions appreciated. Will be used for rough fire roads
and moderate single track, maybe some newbie racing in the
fall. >><BR><BR>

Ritchey Treking rims, ultegra or Centaur hubset depending on
the system. 36 spokes-about $220 in parts.

Peter Chisholm Vecchio's Bicicletteria 1833 Pearl St.
Boulder, CO, 80302
(303)440-3535 vecchios.comvecchios.comOpen ↗ "Ruote convenzionali
costruite eccezionalmente bene"

"daveornee" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Bill said:

I'm interested in building an inexpensive but durable
pair of wheels

for

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

a cyclocross bike. Configuration suggestions
appreciated. Will be used for rough fire roads and
moderate single track, maybe some newbie

racing

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

in the fall. Bill Brannon

How much do you weigh? What is the largest tire your
frame, fork, etc. will clear? What is the smallest and
largest tire you plan to use? What is your rear drop-out
spacing? (130 or 135 mm) Is your bicycle set up for
Shimano 8/9 speed?

Weight 140. Bike is a Surly Cross-Check ordered from LBS.
According to specs will handle a 45 tire. Dropout is 132.5
and can do both road and Mountain hubs. If I want to run
narrow tires I'll borrow the wheels from my road bike. Bike
will be STI 9 speed. My primary intent is to use it as a
light/nimble mountain bike. Tires will be 35+. Maybe
eventually get a Softride suspension stem. I don't know that
I have a preference for moderate priced road vs. mountain
hub. Which ever one will works best. A suitable headset
suggestion would also help. 1 1/8 threadless. Thanks, Bill

On 31 Mar 2004 13:47:46 GMT, [email hidden] (Qui si parla

Campagnolo ) said:

bill-<< I'm interested in building an inexpensive but
durable pair of wheels for a cyclocross bike. Configuration
suggestions appreciated. Will be used for rough fire roads
and moderate single track, maybe some newbie racing in the
fall. >><BR><BR>

Ritchey Treking rims, ultegra or Centaur hubset depending
on the system. 36 spokes-about $220 in parts.

Peter Chisholm Vecchio's Bicicletteria 1833 Pearl St.
Boulder, CO, 80302
(303)440-3535 vecchios.comvecchios.comOpen ↗ "Ruote convenzionali
costruite eccezionalmente bene"

For dirt and rain, do you have an opinion on XT hubs
compared to Ultegra? Is the sealing as effective on
either one?

-----BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE-----

In article <gHAac.8054$He5.162044@bgtnsc04-
news.ops.worldnet.att.net>, Bill

Quoted message said:

"daveornee" <[email hidden]> wrote in
message "]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Bill said:

I'm interested in building an inexpensive but durable
pair of wheels

for

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

a cyclocross bike. Configuration suggestions
appreciated. Will be used for rough fire roads and
moderate single track, maybe some newbie

racing

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

in the fall. Bill Brannon

How much do you weigh? What is the largest tire your
frame, fork, etc. will clear? What is the smallest and
largest tire you plan to use? What is your rear drop-out
spacing? (130 or 135 mm) Is your bicycle set up for
Shimano 8/9 speed?

Weight 140. Bike is a Surly Cross-Check ordered from LBS.
According to specs will handle a 45 tire.

_ Sort of. While you can put a 44mm Nanoraptor on the back,
the clearance is too tight for doing much in the mud, the
wheel packs up much too quickly. It works fine up front, but
I've found that 35 or 38mm in the back works much better.
Lighter and seems to bight deeper in the mud. I like the
control of the Nanoraptors up front.

Quoted message said:

Dropout is 132.5 and can do both road and Mountain hubs.
If I want to run narrow tires I'll borrow the wheels from
my road bike. Bike will be STI 9 speed. My primary intent
is to use it as a light/nimble mountain bike. Tires will
be 35+. Maybe eventually get a Softride suspension stem.

_ Get one of these

cambriabike.comrockshox road suspensiOpen ↗
on_post.htm

Makes blasting those fire road washboards a lot easier.

Quoted message said:

I don't know that I have a preference for moderate priced
road vs. mountain hub. Which ever one will works best. A
suitable headset suggestion would also help. 1 1/8
threadless.

_ I've been pretty happy with the wheels that came stock on
my built up Cross Check. Deore Hubs with Alex D17 rims. I
had them hand trued/ tensioned shortly after I bought the
bike and they've been fine since them. I've got 40lbs on you
and haven't broken any spokes yet. The only thing I would
change is getting 36 spokes on the rear if possible. I think
there's a big advantage to getting 135 on the rear as there
is less dish in the wheel than with a 130 hub.

_ Booker C. Bense

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Bill said:

I'm interested in building an inexpensive but durable
pair of wheels for a cyclocross bike. Configuration
suggestions appreciated. Will be used for rough fire
roads and moderate single track, maybe some newbie racing
in the fall.

Last night I saw a couple of decent-looking wheel sets at
Nashbar, for $90-100. Retension and stress-relieve them, and
you're good to go. You couldn't buy the parts, let alone
build them up, for that kind of money.

Matt O.

Quoted post said:

Originally posted by Bill
"daveornee" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Bill said:

I'm interested in building an inexpensive but durable
pair of wheels

for

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

a cyclocross bike. Configuration suggestions
appreciated. Will be used for rough fire roads and
moderate single track, maybe some newbie

racing

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

in the fall. Bill Brannon

How much do you weigh? What is the largest tire your
frame, fork, etc. will clear? What is the smallest and
largest tire you plan to use? What is your rear drop-out
spacing? (130 or 135 mm) Is your bicycle set up for
Shimano 8/9 speed?

Weight 140. Bike is a Surly Cross-Check ordered from LBS.
According to specs will handle a 45 tire. Dropout is 132.5
and can do both road and Mountain hubs. If I want to run
narrow tires I'll borrow the wheels from my road bike. Bike
will be STI 9 speed. My primary intent is to use it as a
light/nimble mountain bike. Tires will be 35+. Maybe
eventually get a Softride suspension stem. I don't know that
I have a preference for moderate priced road vs. mountain
hub. Which ever one will works best. A suitable headset
suggestion would also help. 1 1/8 threadless. Thanks, Bill

I suggest 36 spoke Ritchey Trekking with OCR rear or Bontrager Fairlance 36 spoke Asym rear. If cosmetic matching is important then go with the matching front or a Mavic T519, T520, for front.
I would use XTR or XT hubs as they have slightly better seals than road hubs. Ultegra is strong and has labyrinth that works well, but I think the 135 mm will make the rear wheel slightly more durable.
I use Bontrager Fairlane 36 spoke wheels on my touring bicycle with XTR hubs. They are holding true perfectly and the hubs are smooth after 5,000+ miles of loaded touring. The Bontrager rims come less finished than Ritchey or Mavic, but with some hand finishing they are quite good. The welded rim joint and spoke holes come a little ragged, but can easily be cleaned up.
Go with quality DB 14/15 spokes and a quality builder. The qualtiy of the build is more important than details of which rim.
Peter Chisholm from his shop in Boulder does this for a living and has a good reputation.

I've been pretty happy with the wheels that came stock on

Quoted message said:

my built up Cross Check. Deore Hubs with Alex D17 rims. I
had them hand trued/ tensioned shortly after I bought the
bike and they've been fine since them. I've got 40lbs on
you and haven't broken any spokes yet. The only thing I
would change is getting 36 spokes on the rear if possible.
I think there's a big advantage to getting 135 on the rear
as there is less dish in the wheel than with a 130 hub.

_ Booker C. Bense

For someone that weighs 140#, 36 holes is like riding a 40-
spoke wheel for someone your weight. Not necessary.

My turn.

Used XTR hubs (preferably the silver ones) with Veloctiy
Escapes or Aeroheads. If you want light, at 140, you can get
away with 28/32, but
32/32 is going to be more durable.

I have a pair of roughly the same wheels (my 32-hole XTR
hubs are that flat grey) with Escapes. I'm running 34c Tufo
tubulars off road. I weigh about 180-ish and haven't had to
touch these wheels since I bumped the tension up shortly
after I built them. I got some 28c Tufos for racing next
season. I'm NOT looking forward to trying to ride those guys
off road! (lots and lots of baby-head rocks in the trails
here in San Diego... Oops!WHANG! DAMN!...)

Tubulars mean fewer pinch flats riding off road. They also
mean a few more hassles when you do flat and a few more
hassles getting the tires on the rims in the first place.

Mike

Quoted message said:

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Bill said:

I'm interested in building an inexpensive but durable
pair of wheels for a cyclocross bike. Configuration
suggestions appreciated. Will be used for rough fire
roads and moderate single track, maybe some newbie racing
in the fall.

Shimano Ultegra 36 hole hubs, DT or Wheelsmith 14/15 g
butted spokes, Torelli Master polished rims. Those will hold
you for years to come.

Mike S.' mikeshaw2@coxDOTnet said:

Quoted message said:

I've been pretty happy with the wheels that came stock
on my built up Cross Check. Deore Hubs with Alex D17
rims. I had them hand trued/ tensioned shortly after I
bought the bike and they've been fine since them. I've
got 40lbs on you and haven't broken any spokes yet. The
only thing I would change is getting 36 spokes on the
rear if possible. I think there's a big advantage to
getting 135 on the rear as there is less dish in the
wheel than with a 130 hub

For someone that weighs 140#, 36 holes is like riding a
40-spoke wheel for someone your weight. Not necessary.

Well, there's schools of thought on that sort of thing. If
this was a race-only bike with spare wheels waiting, then
I'd agree with you. But since he's going to use it for trail
riding as well, I'd err on the side of caution.

Quoted message said:

Tubulars mean fewer pinch flats riding off road.

YMMV. I had more trouble with flats with tubular for 'cross
racing than with clinchers in terms of punctures.

Quoted message said:

They also mean a few more hassles when you do flat and a
few more hassles getting the tires on the rims in the
first place.

Make that a lot more hassle, unless you can afford to throw
them away rather than repair them.

Tim McNamara said:

Mike S.' mikeshaw2@coxDOTnet said:

For someone that weighs 140#, 36 holes is like riding a
40-spoke wheel for someone your weight. Not necessary.

Well, there's schools of thought on that sort of thing. If
this was a race-only bike with spare wheels waiting, then
I'd agree with you. But since he's going to use it for
trail riding as well, I'd err on the side of caution.

Or maybe he'll just lend the bike to someone heavier...
--
David Damerell <[email hidden]> flcl?

-----BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE-----

In article <zNHac.31805$wl1.10985@fed1read06>, Mike S.

mikeshaw2@coxDOTnet said:

I've been pretty happy with the wheels that came stock on

Quoted message said:

my built up Cross Check. Deore Hubs with Alex D17 rims. I
had them hand trued/ tensioned shortly after I bought the
bike and they've been fine since them. I've got 40lbs on
you and haven't broken any spokes yet. The only thing I
would change is getting 36 spokes on the rear if
possible. I think there's a big advantage to getting 135
on the rear as there is less dish in the wheel than with
a 130 hub.

_ Booker C. Bense

For someone that weighs 140#, 36 holes is like riding a 40-
spoke wheel for someone your weight. Not necessary.

_ If I could get them without breaking the bank, I'd be
riding 40 spoke wheels on the back. I'd like to do some long
rides on fire roads in the Sierra and I really don't want to
taco a wheel 15 or 20 miles from the car. IMHO, 4 or 8
spokes is a meaningless weight addition. You add more weight
than that going through one mud puddle.

_ I may be a retro-grouch, but I really don't trust 32 spoke
700c wheels in rough terrain.

_ Booker C. Bense

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Qui si parla Campagnolo said:

ddandan-<< For dirt and rain, do you have an opinion on XT
hubs compared to Ultegra? Is the sealing as effective on
either one? >><BR><BR>

probably XT, but ensure the frameset is 135mm...

Or modify the rear hub. The axle can be cut down to 130mm,
which voids the warranty but works well.

Greg
--
Gregory S. Sutter "How do I read this file?"
"][email hidden] "You uudecode it."
zer0.org~gsutterOpen ↗ "I I I decode it?"

Gregory Sutter said:

Qui si parla Campagnolo said:

ddandan-<< For dirt and rain, do you have an opinion on
XT hubs compared to Ultegra? Is the sealing as effective
on either one? >><BR><BR>

probably XT, but ensure the frameset is 135mm...

Or modify the rear hub. The axle can be cut down to 130mm,
which voids the warranty but works well.

I was considering doing that for a wheel I'll build soon.
Anything special to watch out for, or just have fun with a
reciprocating saw?
--
Rick Onanian

Rick Onanian said:

Gregory Sutter said:

Qui si parla Campagnolo said:

ddandan-<< For dirt and rain, do you have an opinion on
XT hubs compared to Ultegra? Is the sealing as effective
on either one? >><BR><BR>

probably XT, but ensure the frameset is 135mm...

Or modify the rear hub. The axle can be cut down to 130mm,
which voids the warranty but works well.

I was considering doing that for a wheel I'll build soon.
Anything special to watch out for, or just have fun with a
reciprocating saw?

Rick,

I don't know, as I haven't done it myself. I just enjoy the
result of having had an experienced wheelbuilder modify an
XT hub for me on my newest CX rear wheel.

Greg
--
Gregory S. Sutter "How do I read this file?"
"][email hidden] "You uudecode it."
zer0.org~gsutterOpen ↗ "I I I decode it?"