My wife Mary and I did a cycletour in Tuscany just now. We
flew Ryanair to Pisa from Stanstead. Pisa airport is
practically in the centre of the city. We stayed overnight
in Pisa, went to see the tower (it and the whole square have
the 'wow' factor ++), cycled next day over Monte Serra to
Lucca. This is a savage climb. Near Lucca the traffic is
heavy. The old town of Lucca is superb,.
Next day via cappanori, altopascio, Spianate, Cerreto Guidi
Vinci, Carmingnano etc. went to Florence. The first 20 miles
of this was in a built up area, after that increasingly
hilly and nice. Last 10 miles in Florence busy busy, Next
day, day off to sight-see. Saw Duomo, went up bell-tower (a
must), saw Duomo, Uffizi gallery (BIG disappointment. Not a
patch on the Prado in Madrid), several basilicas, The
Palacio Vecchio etc. Impression. Everything in Florence
costs. Some of the stuff is stunning. Would I go back. NO.
Next day Through Porto Romano (Road to Siena), Certosa, San
Andrea, S.Casciano,
S.Pancrazio, Monterspertoli, Castefioentino, Certaldo, San
Gimingnano. VERY VERY HILLY. Hard stuff. Beautiful when
out in country. San Gimingnano gorgeous.
Next day.Quartaia to near Casole d'Elsa, Mensanello,
Maggiano, near San Columba Siena. Ferocious climbing. Very
quiet in middle. Old city of Siena lovely. Piazza del Campo
stunning. Rather city to Florence.
Next day South west through Ancaiano Pieve a Scupola
(Variably spelt ) Superb hilly cycling, very quiet, Casole
d'Elsa, Volterra. Last 10 miles or so on busy road. This day
was savagely hilly. It was raining at the end. A great day's
cycling. Volterra on minorish road north slight to east
(Superb) via Castagno, then north to San Vivaldo, Montaione,
Castagno again to San Gimignano. Superb country cycling,
very hilly.
Last day. San Gimignano, Castagno, San Vivaldo, Pontedra
Pisa. The Pontedra Pisa road is wide, not too busy and
the IDEAL way in and out of the city. This was a fine
easy cycle.
Observations. Tuscany is the most difficult terrain I've
ever cycled in in 45 bike tours, except maybe Devon and
Cornwall. Mary and I usually do about 60 mpd, but did only
about 35 here. Other cyclists we met there were doing about
the same. My advice, Stay South of a line drawn east of
Pisa. If you want to see Florence and Lucca, get the train.
English cyclists we met used the train a lot and said that
they were bike friendly and no problem. The countryside if
gorgeous but not up north where it's a huge urban sprawl.
Food: Big ballyhoo in tourist books about this. It's POOR.
We got 2 good meals in the week and they were expensive. You
will get far better Italian food in an Italian restaurant in
Ireland or Germany of Britain, than in Tuscany. The bread is
unsalted and has all the culinary delights of sawdust. This
was the opinion of almost all the tourists we met. The red
wine is superb. Italy is expensive, and to my surprise MORE
expensive than Ireland. In Ireland you may pay more for a
main-course but you'll get the works, potatoes, or rice
etc., loads of vegetable, loads of meat and it will taste
really good. In Tuscany you get multiple courses which are
samples, and adding up the cost you are talking about maybe
25% or 30% more for greatly inferior food. I am a foodie,
and an omnivore, and have eaten extensively in numerous
countries. Breakfasts were adequate. The people were for the
most part friendly.
If you cycle in Tuscany, The Map I used was the Edizioni
Multigraphic Toscana 1:200,000
On this Motorways are red and then there are thick green
(main roads) and thin green (other main roads), yellow and
white. The thin green are the best option. These tend to be
a little less hilly than the yellow, have light traffic and
are scenic. Stay away from thick green, as they have evil
traffic and are too narrow for their purpose. The yellow
are fine but need careful navigation. The white tend to
come to an end.
Would I recommend Tuscany.
Yes if you are prepared to be disappointed with the food,
and are prepared to put up with endless 10%+ gradients. You
will not see better scenery than the the area around and
south of San Gimingnano, etc. You must choose the roads
carefully.