Cutting cable housing

Zilla said:

What's the trick so as not to crimp the metal casing
inside? I have the Park cable cutter, so it's not the
tool. (IOW, I know it's me.)

Have you tried inserting an old spoke or an old cable?

Francesco

Zilla said:

What's the trick so as not to crimp the metal casing
inside? I have the Park cable cutter, so it's not the
tool. (IOW, I know it's me.)

While some people file the edges down smooth, I just use an
old hunk of cable to open/round the hole. Hear it's a bit
harder with brake housing than derailleur, but haven't had
to do it yet (in over 8 years?!?).

Bill "stiff stoppers" S.

<< What's the trick so as not to crimp the metal casing
inside? I have the Park cable cutter, so it's not the tool.
(IOW, I know it's me.) >>

Easiest and most precise method to cut cable housing is with
a Dremel tool cut-off wheel.

Zilla said:

What's the trick so as not to crimp the metal casing
inside? I have the Park cable cutter, so it's not the
tool. (IOW, I know it's me.)

I''ve never been able to keep it uncrimped. I just use a
small nail or an old spoke to round it out again. Doesn't
seem to have caused any problems at all. I'm curious to see
if there's any way to do it without crushing it.

--
Tom

Zilla said:

What's the trick so as not to crimp the metal casing
inside? I have the Park cable cutter, so it's not the
tool. (IOW, I know it's me.)

Believe or not, a Tube Cutter is the secret. Using a tube
cutter will leave a perfect cut and will also keep the metal
web from spreading/springing out on you, making it
impossible to insert into the attachment sleeve.

The trick is to go real slow (pressure wise) with the
cutter... too much pressure or you'll squish it. You'll be
able to feel it, and you well hear it as it cuts thru the
metal webbing. As soon as it goes thru the last piece of
metal, stop and finish off the inner plastic line with a
sharp razor.

--
Slacker

ugghhh... never post after waking up from a nap!

tcmedara said:

I''ve never been able to keep it uncrimped. I just use a
small nail or an old spoke to round it out again. Doesn't
seem to have caused any problems at all. I'm curious to see
if there's any way to do it without crushing it.

Different brands of derailleur housing will crush easier. I
bought some Alligator housing
<http://www.alligatorcables.com/products.htm> that I cut
with Felco C7 cutters and crushing is minimum. I had some
generic housing where more time was spent opening up the
housing than measuring and cutting.

Another vote for Dremel tool. But I haven't had to cut a housing since going to Nokon for all my cables.

tcmedara said:

Zilla said:

What's the trick so as not to crimp the metal casing
inside? I have the Park cable cutter, so it's not the
tool. (IOW, I know it's me.)

I''ve never been able to keep it uncrimped. I just use a
small nail or an old spoke to round it out again. Doesn't
seem to have caused any problems at all. I'm curious to
see if there's any way to do it without crushing it.

yes. cut a single slit around the cable with a knife, then
bend it around very slightly until you see where the coil of
the cable coincides with the slit. at this point, you can
hold it slightly open, then use wire cutters to cut the
coil. it does not crimp the cable, but you still have to
file or grind it square afterwards. i use a bench grinder
- a fabulously useful tool for only $40.

Zilla said:

What's the trick so as not to crimp the metal casing
inside? I have the Park cable cutter, so it's not the
tool. (IOW, I know it's me.)

For brake casing, find something which can slip between the
coils like a diagonal side cutter ( the tool whose Name
Shall Not Be Spoken) or an end cutter. You may finish with a
light touch on a grindwheel if you're a perfectionist. At
any rate, ensure the aperture is not occluded by an errant
sharp overhang. We use a pointy spoke to open the teflon
liner. For index gear casing, you'll need something which
can leave a crisp edge in this hard material. Swiss Felco
cutters are the very best but other brands of wire cutters
(the type with a diamond-shaped cutting edges) are fine for
home use. Again, a pointy spoke is great for opening the
teflon liner.

A diamond-shaped cutting edge (Felco, Var, copies) isn't a
particularly good tool for brake casing. Try a tool with a
simpler edge.

That's a bit wordy and I'm enjoying my new camera immensely:
yellowjersey.orgCASING.JPGOpen ↗

--
Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org Open every day since 1
April, 1971

(Mike Krueger) said:

<< What's the trick so as not to crimp the metal casing
inside? I have the Park cable cutter, so it's not the tool.
(IOW, I know it's me.) >>

Easiest and most precise method to cut cable housing is
with a Dremel tool cut-off wheel.

Agreed, but it still must be de-burred after with a small
file. So, if he has a cable cutter, he may as well use it,
then take a file to the end of the housing. The filing takes
longer than after having used a Dremel, but the result is
the same. Extra care when doing this job will pay dividends
with smoothness of cable operation.

On Mon, 28 Jun 2004 00:04:21 GMT, H. Morgan <[email hidden]>

Quoted message said:

On 27 Jun 2004 20:33:40 GMT, [email hidden] (Mike

Krueger) said:

<< What's the trick so as not to crimp the metal casing
inside? I have the Park cable cutter, so it's not the
tool. (IOW, I know it's me.) >>

Easiest and most precise method to cut cable housing is
with a Dremel tool cut-off wheel.

Agreed, but it still must be de-burred after with a small
file. So, if he has a cable cutter, he may as well use it,
then take a file to the end of the housing. The filing
takes longer than after having used a Dremel, but the
result is the same. Extra care when doing this job will pay
dividends with smoothness of cable operation.

With light pressure, you can use the side of the Dremel
cutoff wheel to deburr and smooth the cut. I usually put two
cutoff wheels in anyway because they shatter so easily,
which makes the side use safer.

A scriber or nail can open up the inner plastic housing.

Slacker said:

ugghhh... never post after waking up from a nap!

One where you're dreaming of an itty bitty little
tubing cutter?

Mark Hickey Habanero Cycles habcycles.comhabcycles.comOpen ↗ Home of
the $695 ti frame

Mark Hickey said:

Slacker said:

ugghhh... never post after waking up from a nap!

One where you're dreaming of an itty bitty little
tubing cutter?

Mark Hickey Habanero Cycles habcycles.comhabcycles.comOpen ↗ Home
of the $695 ti frame

Yeah, in the hand of a very [censored] ex-GF ;-( She had a
dull butter knife in the other.

Maybe I won't go back to sleep for awhile.

--
Slacker

"Zilla" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

What's the trick so as not to crimp the metal casing
inside? I have the Park cable cutter, so it's not the
tool. (IOW, I know it's me.)

In addition to what everyone else says, I should point out
that the previous Park cutter was pretty famously bad, in
case that's what you're using. I haven't used or heard
reviews about the newer CN-10 yet, which is likely what you
have if it's new.

Nate Knutson said:

"Zilla" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:<[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

What's the trick so as not to crimp the metal casing
inside? I have the Park cable cutter, so it's not the
tool. (IOW, I know it's me.)

In addition to what everyone else says, I should point out
that the previous Park cutter was pretty famously bad, in
case that's what you're using. I haven't used or heard
reviews about the newer CN-10 yet, which is likely what
you have if it's new.

My Park cable cutter is 1-yr old. How long has the CN-
10 been out?

--
- Zilla Cary, NC (Remove XSPAM)

Zilla said:

Nate Knutson said:

"Zilla" <[email hidden]> wrote in message

Quoted message said:

What's the trick so as not to crimp the metal casing
inside? I have the Park cable cutter, so it's not the
tool. (IOW, I know it's me.)

In addition to what everyone else says, I should point
out that the previous Park cutter was pretty famously
bad, in case that's what you're using. I haven't used or
heard reviews about the newer CN-10 yet, which is likely
what you have if it's new.

My Park cable cutter is 1-yr old. How long has the CN-10
been out?

Pardon me if this has been said already by others.

BIG DEAL! No special cutting tool is necessary: any does
the job. Just have at hand a grinding stone/belt or
corborundum disc; use it to round off the badly cut spiral.
Then, insert as fine nail or drill to open up the hole in
the inner casing.

That's all you need.

Sergio Pisa

"Dan Daniel" <[email hidden]> wrote

Quoted message said:

With light pressure, you can use the side of the Dremel
cutoff wheel to deburr and smooth the cut. I usually put
two cutoff wheels in anyway because they shatter so
easily, which makes the side use safer.

Use the fiber reinforced ones, they don't break.

"Zilla" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

What's the trick so as not to crimp the metal casing
inside? I have the Park cable cutter, so it's not the
tool. (IOW, I know it's me.)

I insert some old cable before I cut. Use the Park cable
cutter and cut right thru the housing and cable. The cable
supports the inner wall of the housing, giving clean cuts
every time.

--
Jim C