Cutting cable housing

Zilla said:

What's the trick so as not to crimp the metal casing
inside? I have the Park cable cutter, so it's not the tool.
(IOW, I know it's me.)

Have you tried inserting an old spoke or an old cable?

Francesco

Zilla said:

What's the trick so as not to crimp the metal casing
inside? I have the Park cable cutter, so it's not the tool.
(IOW, I know it's me.)

While some people file the edges down smooth, I just use an old hunk of
cable to open/round the hole. Hear it's a bit harder with brake housing
than derailleur, but haven't had to do it yet (in over 8 years?!?).

Bill "stiff stoppers" S.

<< What's the trick so as not to crimp the metal casing
inside? I have the Park cable cutter, so it's not the tool.
(IOW, I know it's me.) >>

Easiest and most precise method to cut cable housing is with a Dremel tool
cut-off wheel.

Zilla said:

What's the trick so as not to crimp the metal casing
inside? I have the Park cable cutter, so it's not the tool.
(IOW, I know it's me.)

I''ve never been able to keep it uncrimped. I just use a small nail or an
old spoke to round it out again. Doesn't seem to have caused any problems
at all. I'm curious to see if there's any way to do it without crushing it.

--
Tom

Zilla said:

What's the trick so as not to crimp the metal casing
inside? I have the Park cable cutter, so it's not the tool.
(IOW, I know it's me.)

Believe or not, a Tube Cutter is the secret. Using a tube cutter will
leave a perfect cut and will also keep the metal web from
spreading/springing out on you, making it impossible to insert into the
attachment sleeve.

The trick is to go real slow (pressure wise) with the cutter... too much
pressure or you'll squish it. You'll be able to feel it, and you well
hear it as it cuts thru the metal webbing. As soon as it goes thru the
last piece of metal, stop and finish off the inner plastic line with a
sharp razor.

--
Slacker

ugghhh... never post after waking up from a nap!

tcmedara said:

I''ve never been able to keep it uncrimped. I just use a small nail or an
old spoke to round it out again. Doesn't seem to have caused any problems
at all. I'm curious to see if there's any way to do it without crushing it.

Different brands of derailleur housing will crush easier. I bought
some Alligator housing <http://www.alligatorcables.com/products.htm>
that I cut with Felco C7 cutters and crushing is minimum. I had some
generic housing where more time was spent opening up the housing than
measuring and cutting.

tcmedara said:

Zilla said:

What's the trick so as not to crimp the metal casing
inside? I have the Park cable cutter, so it's not the tool.
(IOW, I know it's me.)

I''ve never been able to keep it uncrimped. I just use a small nail or an
old spoke to round it out again. Doesn't seem to have caused any problems
at all. I'm curious to see if there's any way to do it without crushing it.

yes. cut a single slit around the cable with a knife, then bend it
around very slightly until you see where the coil of the cable coincides
with the slit. at this point, you can hold it slightly open, then use
wire cutters to cut the coil. it does not crimp the cable, but you
still have to file or grind it square afterwards. i use a bench grinder
- a fabulously useful tool for only $40.

Another vote for Dremel tool. But I haven't had to cut a housing since
going to Nokon for all my cables.

--

Zilla said:

What's the trick so as not to crimp the metal casing
inside? I have the Park cable cutter, so it's not the tool.
(IOW, I know it's me.)

For brake casing, find something which can slip between the
coils like a diagonal side cutter ( the tool whose Name
Shall Not Be Spoken) or an end cutter. You may finish with
a light touch on a grindwheel if you're a perfectionist. At
any rate, ensure the aperture is not occluded by an errant
sharp overhang. We use a pointy spoke to open the teflon liner.
For index gear casing, you'll need something which can leave
a crisp edge in this hard material. Swiss Felco cutters are
the very best but other brands of wire cutters (the type
with a diamond-shaped cutting edges) are fine for home use.
Again, a pointy spoke is great for opening the teflon liner.

A diamond-shaped cutting edge (Felco, Var, copies) isn't a
particularly good tool for brake casing. Try a tool with a
simpler edge.

That's a bit wordy and I'm enjoying my new camera immensely:
http://www.yellowjersey.org/photosfromthepast/CASING.JPG

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

(Mike Krueger) said:

<< What's the trick so as not to crimp the metal casing
inside? I have the Park cable cutter, so it's not the tool.
(IOW, I know it's me.) >>

Easiest and most precise method to cut cable housing is with a Dremel tool
cut-off wheel.

Agreed, but it still must be de-burred after with a small file. So, if
he has a cable cutter, he may as well use it, then take a file to the
end of the housing. The filing takes longer than after having used a
Dremel, but the result is the same.
Extra care when doing this job will pay dividends with
smoothness of cable operation.

On Mon, 28 Jun 2004 00:04:21 GMT, H. Morgan <[email hidden]>

Quoted message said:

(Mike Krueger) said:

<< What's the trick so as not to crimp the metal casing
inside? I have the Park cable cutter, so it's not the tool.
(IOW, I know it's me.) >>

Easiest and most precise method to cut cable housing is with a Dremel tool
cut-off wheel.

Agreed, but it still must be de-burred after with a small file. So, if
he has a cable cutter, he may as well use it, then take a file to the
end of the housing. The filing takes longer than after having used a
Dremel, but the result is the same.
Extra care when doing this job will pay dividends with
smoothness of cable operation.

With light pressure, you can use the side of the Dremel cutoff wheel
to deburr and smooth the cut. I usually put two cutoff wheels in
anyway because they shatter so easily, which makes the side use safer.

A scriber or nail can open up the inner plastic housing.

Slacker said:

ugghhh... never post after waking up from a nap!

One where you're dreaming of an itty bitty little tubing cutter?

Mark Hickey
Habanero Cycles
http://www.habcycles.com
Home of the $695 ti frame

Mark Hickey said:

Slacker said:

ugghhh... never post after waking up from a nap!

One where you're dreaming of an itty bitty little tubing cutter?

Mark Hickey
Habanero Cycles
http://www.habcycles.com
Home of the $695 ti frame

Yeah, in the hand of a very [censored] ex-GF ;-( She had a dull butter
knife in the other.

Maybe I won't go back to sleep for awhile.

--
Slacker

"Zilla" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

What's the trick so as not to crimp the metal casing
inside? I have the Park cable cutter, so it's not the tool.
(IOW, I know it's me.)

In addition to what everyone else says, I should point out that the
previous Park cutter was pretty famously bad, in case that's what
you're using. I haven't used or heard reviews about the newer CN-10
yet, which is likely what you have if it's new.

Zilla said:

Nate Knutson said:

"Zilla" <[email hidden]> wrote in message

Quoted message said:

What's the trick so as not to crimp the metal casing
inside? I have the Park cable cutter, so it's not the tool.
(IOW, I know it's me.)

In addition to what everyone else says, I should point out that the
previous Park cutter was pretty famously bad, in case that's what
you're using. I haven't used or heard reviews about the newer CN-10
yet, which is likely what you have if it's new.

My Park cable cutter is 1-yr old. How long has the
CN-10 been out?

Pardon me if this has been said already by others.

BIG DEAL! No special cutting tool is necessary: any does the job.
Just have at hand a grinding stone/belt or corborundum disc; use it to
round off the badly cut spiral. Then, insert as fine nail or drill to open
up the hole in the inner casing.

That's all you need.

Sergio
Pisa

Nate Knutson said:

"Zilla" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:<[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

What's the trick so as not to crimp the metal casing
inside? I have the Park cable cutter, so it's not the tool.
(IOW, I know it's me.)

In addition to what everyone else says, I should point out that the
previous Park cutter was pretty famously bad, in case that's what
you're using. I haven't used or heard reviews about the newer CN-10
yet, which is likely what you have if it's new.

My Park cable cutter is 1-yr old. How long has the
CN-10 been out?

--
- Zilla
Cary, NC
(Remove XSPAM)

"Dan Daniel" <[email hidden]> wrote

Quoted message said:

With light pressure, you can use the side of the Dremel cutoff wheel
to deburr and smooth the cut. I usually put two cutoff wheels in
anyway because they shatter so easily, which makes the side use safer.

Use the fiber reinforced ones, they don't break.

Jim Connelley said:

I insert some old cable before I cut. Use the Park cable cutter and
cut right thru the housing and cable. The cable supports the inner
wall of the housing, giving clean cuts every time.

Ho do you remove the stump of the old cable inside?
Or, is this Park tool made not to cut the inner cable?
Then, if so, why inserting an old one?

Sergio
Pisa