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Custom built question - fork rake and trail

Started by Ken Marcet · · Last activity · 6 posts · 747 views

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Recumbent bicycles
Published
11 February 2005
Last activity
14 February 2005
Original author
Ken Marcet
Posts
6
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  1. Okay here it is if someone could help me with this one I would be very
    greatful.
    I just finished my first custom built swb bent and on my first test ride I
    noticed the steering is ultra sensitive.
    I and using a standard Murray 10 speed road frame, forks off of the same
    roadie and a 20 rim / tire.
    I measured the trail and it looks like I have about 1 inch of negative
    trail, I projected a line from the center of the headtube and a line through
    the center of the axle and the projected line from the headtube is about 1
    inch in front of the projected line of the axle. Correct me if I am wrong
    but that would be considered negative trail correct?
    Anyway the steering is really sensitive and seems to be suffering from
    oversteer. It make the bike almost unridable, Of course some of this could
    be me not being used to the bike. Most of the custom bikes I have seen have
    forks that are bent to give more rake, my question is how much trail would
    be considered normal.

    Ken

    --
    It has yet to be proven that intelligence has any survival value.
    Arthur C. Clarke
    English physicist & science fiction author (1917 - )

  2. Somewhere close to 2" of castor / trail (trails behind the steering axis) for a
    typical swb
    Think of it like a flag with wind blowing on it. A flag always trails behind the
    pole.
    The fork would really like to trail behind the steering axis but you, the rider,
    is forcing it to stay in front.
    Turn the fork around and see how it feels.
    Check frame alignment.
    Speedy

    Ken Marcet said:

    Okay here it is if someone could help me with this one I would be very
    greatful.
    I just finished my first custom built swb bent and on my first test ride I
    noticed the steering is ultra sensitive.
    I and using a standard Murray 10 speed road frame, forks off of the same
    roadie and a 20 rim / tire.
    I measured the trail and it looks like I have about 1 inch of negative
    trail, I projected a line from the center of the headtube and a line through
    the center of the axle and the projected line from the headtube is about 1
    inch in front of the projected line of the axle. Correct me if I am wrong
    but that would be considered negative trail correct?
    Anyway the steering is really sensitive and seems to be suffering from
    oversteer. It make the bike almost unridable, Of course some of this could
    be me not being used to the bike. Most of the custom bikes I have seen have
    forks that are bent to give more rake, my question is how much trail would
    be considered normal.

    Ken

    --
    It has yet to be proven that intelligence has any survival value.
    Arthur C. Clarke
    English physicist & science fiction author (1917 - )

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  3. Ken Marcet said:

    I measured the trail and it looks like I have about 1 inch of


    negative

    Quoted message said:

    trail, I projected a line from the center of the headtube and a line


    through

    Quoted message said:

    the center of the axle and the projected line from the headtube is


    about 1

    Quoted message said:

    inch in front of the projected line of the axle.

    I don't think you're measuring trail correctly. Trail is the distance
    from where the head angle hits the ground to a point directly below the
    front axle. Here's a good article, picture, and calculation method:
    http://www.phred.org/~josh/bike/trail.html

    Jeff

  4. [email hidden] wrote:> front axle. Here's a good article, picture,
    and calculation method:

    Quoted message said:

    http://www.phred.org/~josh/bike/trail.html

    Jeff


    Jeff has hit it on the head. AS the bike gets lower and the seat tilts
    back, we need a little more trail to keep the bike from being twitchy.
    The problem is that more trail also gives more control force. You can
    also go to a steel rim on the wheels or add tiller to reduce the twitch.

    I would turn the fork around first. It's easy and cheap.

    --
    Don’t be a 0 to 60 sheep, be a 60 mpg wolf. Yes Miles Per Gallon.

    See some Bikes At:

    http://home.earthlink.net/~wm.patterson/index.html

    Class and Helicopter

    http://www.calpoly.edu/~wpatters/

    The Pony Express
    http://www.geocities.com/Pentagon/Base/6850/PonySong.html

    Reply to [email hidden]
    [email hidden]
    [email hidden]

  5. That is how I measured my trail, and the line extended from my forks hits
    the ground about 1 and 5/16 in front of the line I dropped down from the
    axle. I was or should I say still am a bit confused about whether this is
    considered positive or negative trail. I have been emailing back and fourth
    with A.D. Carson of recycledrecumbents.com and he has told me that it is
    positive trail, and after sending him a couple of digital photos of my bike
    he has figured that my headtube angle is really steep at about 81 degrees..
    He has also told me that raking my fork further will not help, but suggests
    that I try a 24 inch tire if it will fit or learn to love my twitchy
    steering.

    Ken

    <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:


    Ken Marcet said:

    I measured the trail and it looks like I have about 1 inch of


    negative

    Quoted message said:

    trail, I projected a line from the center of the headtube and a line


    through

    Quoted message said:

    the center of the axle and the projected line from the headtube is


    about 1

    Quoted message said:

    inch in front of the projected line of the axle.

    I don't think you're measuring trail correctly. Trail is the distance
    from where the head angle hits the ground to a point directly below the
    front axle. Here's a good article, picture, and calculation method:
    http://www.phred.org/~josh/bike/trail.html

    Jeff

  6. I have tried like you said to turn the fork around, however due to my
    design, and lack of experience, I don't have enough clearence with my chain
    management system pulleys. But after riding it a couple more times I have
    started to become used to the twitchiness!

    Ken

    "Bill Patterson" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    [email hidden] wrote:> front axle. Here's a good article, picture,
    and calculation method:

    Quoted message said:

    http://www.phred.org/~josh/bike/trail.html

    Jeff


    Jeff has hit it on the head. AS the bike gets lower and the seat tilts
    back, we need a little more trail to keep the bike from being twitchy.
    The problem is that more trail also gives more control force. You can
    also go to a steel rim on the wheels or add tiller to reduce the twitch.

    I would turn the fork around first. It's easy and cheap.

    --
    Don’t be a 0 to 60 sheep, be a 60 mpg wolf. Yes Miles Per Gallon.

    See some Bikes At:

    http://home.earthlink.net/~wm.patterson/index.html

    Class and Helicopter

    http://www.calpoly.edu/~wpatters/

    The Pony Express
    http://www.geocities.com/Pentagon/Base/6850/PonySong.html

    Reply to [email hidden]
    [email hidden]
    [email hidden]

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