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Curse you, Blue Loctite

Started by Simon Brooke · · Last activity · 9 posts · 735 views

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UK and Europe
Published
5 August 2005
Last activity
7 August 2005
Original author
Simon Brooke
Posts
9
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Public discussion
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  1. I'm having one of those weeks where nothing I touch goes right...

    You'll recall an earlier post about a possibly missing bush to a SRAM 9.0
    rear mech? Someone kindly pointed out to me that the spare jockey wheel
    set clearly has a bush. So I bought a set, disassembled the mech
    again... and found that the jockey wheels in the set were nothing like,
    and clearly inferior to, the original jockey wheels, and that the
    bushing which came with the set definitely wouldn't fit the original. So
    I've reassembled the damn thing with the original jockey wheel sans
    bush, and I've got the spare set as, erm, spares.

    Never mind, I thought, while I'm down here in the bike shed I'll fit that
    new brake to the Mantra. Brief background: my Mantra had a perfectly
    nice pair of Avid V brakes on the front, but they were missing an
    adjustment screw. This didn't matter terribly, because I adjusted them
    by bending the spring and they worked fine, but recently I picked up a
    fairly nice apparently brand-new set of Tectro V brakes. Standard fit, V
    brakes, no problem. And having the adjusting screw would make brake
    set-up easier...

    The only problem was, the bloody things came with blue Loctite on the
    threads. Well, most people use blue Loctite, so it must be OK, I'm just
    old fashioned. But as soon as I'd screwed the first one in as far as the
    Loctite it went incredibly stiff. 'This isn't right' sort of stiff. So I
    unscrewed it, and it unscrewed perfectly easily. I examined the thread,
    no problem. I compared it with the length of the bolt out of the Avid,
    no difference. Unfortunately the washer on the Tectro bolt was captive
    on the bolt, and the washer on the Avid was captive on the brake body,
    so I couldn't just just use the old bolt. Ho hum. Most people use Blue
    Loctite, it must be OK. So I screwed it back in, and, up to the Loctite
    blob, it went perfectly easily. And then it went stiff again. So I
    heaved on the allen key, and... sheared the bolt.

    $%*&#!

    So, where before I had a working bike with a minor fault that only I knew
    about, now I've got an unridable bike which is going to take major
    surgery to sort out. It's my spare full suspension bike, so it doesn't
    justify huge amounts of money. But it's a nice bike and it would be a
    shame to scrap it. So the options are

    (1) use a stud extractor to get the broken bolt out - tricky.
    (2) get a replacement set of forks. I always meant to replace the forks
    on that bike - they're Psylos, which aren't wonderful, but any
    replacement is going to cost real money.
    (3) put a disk brake on the front. I've got a Hayes HFX9 front sitting
    doing nothing, but it would mean a new front wheel because the
    current one doesn't have a disk-ready hub.

    Bother! It really isn't my week.

    --
    [email hidden] (Simon Brooke) http://www.jasmine.org.uk/~simon/
    ,/| _.--''^``-...___.._.,;
    /, \'. _-' ,--,,,--'''
    { \ `_-'' ' /
    `;;' ; ; ;
    ._..--'' ._,,, _..' .;.'
    (,_....----''' (,..--''

  2. Simon Brooke said:

    So, where before I had a working bike with a minor fault that only I knew
    about, now I've got an unridable bike which is going to take major
    surgery to sort out. It's my spare full suspension bike, so it doesn't
    justify huge amounts of money. But it's a nice bike and it would be a
    shame to scrap it. So the options are

    (1) use a stud extractor to get the broken bolt out - tricky.
    (2) get a replacement set of forks. I always meant to replace the forks
    on that bike - they're Psylos, which aren't wonderful, but any
    replacement is going to cost real money.
    (3) put a disk brake on the front. I've got a Hayes HFX9 front sitting
    doing nothing, but it would mean a new front wheel because the
    current one doesn't have a disk-ready hub.

    Bother! It really isn't my week.

    To make life better (Or possibly worse)... in my experience and in
    those of everyone I've spoken to, Tektro V-brakes are truly the Spawn
    of Stan! So had you successfully fitted them, you'd probably have
    experienced a decrease in quality from your not very adjustable Avids!
    :-)

    Jon

  3. Simon Brooke said:


    Never mind, I thought, while I'm down here in the bike shed I'll fit that
    new brake to the Mantra. Brief background: my Mantra had a perfectly
    nice pair of Avid V brakes on the front, but they were missing an
    adjustment screw. This didn't matter terribly, because I adjusted them
    by bending the spring and they worked fine, but recently I picked up a
    fairly nice apparently brand-new set of Tectro V brakes. Standard fit, V
    brakes, no problem. And having the adjusting screw would make brake
    set-up easier...

    Swapping Avids for Tektros sounds like a massively retrograde step.

    Quoted message said:

    The only problem was, the bloody things came with blue Loctite on the
    threads. Well, most people use blue Loctite, so it must be OK, I'm just
    old fashioned. But as soon as I'd screwed the first one in as far as the
    Loctite it went incredibly stiff. 'This isn't right' sort of stiff. So I
    unscrewed it, and it unscrewed perfectly easily. I examined the thread,
    no problem. I compared it with the length of the bolt out of the Avid,
    no difference. Unfortunately the washer on the Tectro bolt was captive
    on the bolt, and the washer on the Avid was captive on the brake body,
    so I couldn't just just use the old bolt. Ho hum. Most people use Blue
    Loctite, it must be OK. So I screwed it back in, and, up to the Loctite
    blob, it went perfectly easily. And then it went stiff again. So I
    heaved on the allen key, and... sheared the bolt.

    Blue loctite isn't that strong. Its sounds as if there is some other
    problem as well as a faulty bolt. Are you sure the brake body isn't
    thinner and the bolt bottoming out?

    You might be able to get it out with a centre punch and hammer to drive
    the bolt round and maybe the application of some heat to loosen the loctite.

    Good luck!

    --
    Tony

    "I did make a mistake once - I thought I'd made a mistake but I hadn't"
    Anon

  4. Tony Raven said:

    Blue loctite isn't that strong. Its sounds as if there is some other
    problem as well as a faulty bolt. Are you sure the brake body isn't
    thinner and the bolt bottoming out?

    Tsk, Tony, it was bound to happen. It is a Fact that ALL threaded brake
    components are made from cheese.

    --
    Dave Larrington - <http://www.legslarry.beerdrinkers.co.uk/>
    The best way to confuse a Daily Mail reader is to tell it that
    paedophiles form the staple diet of asylum seekers.

  5. Dave Larrington said:


    Tsk, Tony, it was bound to happen. It is a Fact that ALL threaded brake
    components are made from cheese.

    Well if people will use cheesehead screws.... ;-)

    --
    Tony

    "I did make a mistake once - I thought I'd made a mistake but I hadn't"
    Anon

  6. Simon Brooke said:

    So, where before I had a working bike with a minor fault that only I knew
    about, now I've got an unridable bike which is going to take major
    surgery to sort out.

    There are such things as stud extractors - something like this:

    http://www.premiertools.co.uk/item1022.htm

    I think it works like a left-handed tap - giving enough purchase to
    back the stid out of the hole. You shouldn't need heat or butchery to
    remove your stud (bolt). Try a decent tool shop or a hire shop.


  7. Quoted message said:

    So, where before I had a working bike with a minor fault that only I knew
    about, now I've got an unridable bike which is going to take major
    surgery to sort out. It's my spare full suspension bike, so it doesn't
    justify huge amounts of money. But it's a nice bike and it would be a
    shame to scrap it. So the options are

    (1) use a stud extractor to get the broken bolt out - tricky.
    (2) get a replacement set of forks. I always meant to replace the forks
    on that bike - they're Psylos, which aren't wonderful, but any
    replacement is going to cost real money.
    (3) put a disk brake on the front. I've got a Hayes HFX9 front sitting
    doing nothing, but it would mean a new front wheel because the
    current one doesn't have a disk-ready hub.

    Bother! It really isn't my week.


    And here's me thinking I was having a bad week with four punctures in four
    days due to the local youths smashing bottles on a cycle path. I hope
    everything gets sorted.

    John

  8. In my experience Specialized Armadillos are the complete answer to this.

  9. in message <[email hidden]>, m-gineering

    (') said:
    Simon Brooke said:


    I'm having one of those weeks where nothing I touch goes right...

    And then it went stiff again. So I
    heaved on the allen key, and... sheared the bolt.

    Serves you right for trying to solve your problems with brute force 😉

    Indeed.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    (2) get a replacement set of forks. I always meant to replace the
    forks
    on that bike - they're Psylos, which aren't wonderful, but any
    replacement is going to cost real money.

    Any suspensionfork is bound to have a replacable -steel- screw-in
    brakestud

    Yup, you're right, it does, as my LBS pointed out to me when I went in
    seeking tea and sympathy for my kackfistedness. It's going to get a
    liberal dose of plus gas later today, and then it's going to come out.

    --
    [email hidden] (Simon Brooke) http://www.jasmine.org.uk/~simon/
    "The result is a language that... not even its mother could
    love. Like the camel, Common Lisp is a horse designed by
    committee. Camels do have their uses."
    ;; Scott Fahlman, 7 March 1995

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