Crunchy freehub

"supabonbon" <[email hidden]> schrieb im Newsbeitrag
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Well, I went and shot degreaser on my cassette while it was on the XT freehub. Once it was nice
and sparkly, I spun it backwards. It sounded like it was grinding glass. Duh. What do I do? I know
the bearings are at the outside edge of the freehub. Is this a situation that requires a blind
spritz of lube to the inside of the freehub and some luck, or am I going to have to try and
dismantle this sucker to apply grease and/or swap bearings?

This sounds like something I would do. I do believe that those shimano hubs are not intended to be
user servicable, but there are tricks to grease them. I believe that morningstar makes something
called a freehub buddy. You replace Shimano's dustcap with it and it allows you to squirt grease
into the hub.

Go a google search on rec.bicycles.tech and I am sure that this question has cropped up a few times.

-Dave

"supabonbon" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Well, I went and shot degreaser on my cassette while it was on the XT freehub. Once it was nice
and sparkly, I spun it backwards. It sounded like it was grinding glass. Duh. What do I do? I know
the bearings are at the outside edge of the freehub. Is this a situation that requires a blind
spritz of lube to the inside of the freehub and some luck, or am I going to have to try and
dismantle this sucker to apply grease and/or swap bearings?

/s: the more I know, the dumber my mistakes become

shimano-europe.comFH M755.pdfOpen ↗

--

The freehub bearings can be accessed from the left side of item 17 in this view. There's a rubber
dust cover that you can pry off. Be sure you watch it closely (front/back) as it only goes on one
way. You could try pushing a little grease in from this side. The freehub comes off with an allen
bolt, item 15

DTW .../\.../\.../\...

I've spent most of my money on mountain biking and windsurfing. The rest I've just wasted.

D T W .../\... said:

"supabonbon" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Well, I went and shot degreaser on my cassette while it was on the XT freehub. Once it was nice
and sparkly, I spun it backwards. It sounded like it was grinding glass. Duh. What do I do? I know
the bearings are at the outside edge of the freehub. Is this a situation that requires a blind
spritz of lube to the inside of the freehub and some luck, or am I going to have to try and
dismantle this sucker to apply grease and/or swap bearings?

/s: the more I know, the dumber my mistakes become

shimano-europe.comFH M755.pdfOpen ↗

--

The freehub bearings can be accessed from the left side of item 17 in this view. There's a rubber
dust cover that you can pry off. Be sure you watch it closely (front/back) as it only goes on one
way. You could try pushing a little grease in from this side. The freehub comes off with an allen
bolt, item 15

Not grease, synthetic gear lube -- 75w90 is what I used to use (from my Jeep, so I had some laying
around). If you don't have a bearing buddy, pour some around the gap that the seal leaves and turn
the hub. Do this until you get oil coming out the other side that's clean, or your hub feels clean
when you turn it. Takes patience -- the bearing buddy's the way to go!

David

Dave Stocker said:

"supabonbon" <[email hidden]> schrieb im Newsbeitrag
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Well, I went and shot degreaser on my cassette while it was on the XT freehub. Once it was nice
and sparkly, I spun it backwards. It sounded like it was grinding glass. Duh. What do I do? I
know the bearings are at the outside edge of the freehub. Is this a situation that requires a
blind spritz of lube to the inside of the freehub and some luck, or am I going to have to try
and dismantle this sucker to apply grease and/or swap bearings?

This sounds like something I would do. I do believe that those shimano hubs are not intended to be
user servicable, but there are tricks to grease them.

<schnip>

Bull. They are user serviceable, if you have the right user. If the 'flowing the oil through the
hub' thing doesn't work, find a buddy who knows what they are doing, and have them thoroughly
clean/repack it [as long as the bearings and races aren't shot]. If you don't have any buddies
who can do this, find a shop that will do it. It's worth getting it done correctly if you want
the hub to last.

--
J'm

To Reply Direct, Remove Clothes

..-.-

JD said:

[email hidden] (supabonbon) wrote in message
news:<[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

Well, I went and shot degreaser on my cassette while it was on the XT freehub. Once it was nice
and sparkly, I spun it backwards. It sounded like it was grinding glass. Duh. What do I do? I know
the bearings are at the outside edge of the freehub. Is this a situation that requires a blind
spritz of lube to the inside of the freehub and some luck, or am I going to have to try and
dismantle this sucker to apply grease and/or swap bearings?

You're boned. Besides the fact that it's an xt junk freehub that will self destruct under anyone
over 200lbs within 6 months if they really ride their bike, all of that grit is now trapped inside
that weak pos and there is no way to get all of it out.

JD

Bearing buddy WILL get it out. Been there, done that. I used to use a syringe to pump gear lube
through it until it's clean and non-crunchy 🙂.

Now, with my Chris King, I don't worry about that kind of thing 🙂!

David

David Kunz <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:<[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

JD said:

[email hidden] (supabonbon) wrote in message
news:<[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

Well, I went and shot degreaser on my cassette while it was on the XT freehub. Once it was nice
and sparkly, I spun it backwards. It sounded like it was grinding glass. Duh. What do I do? I
know the bearings are at the outside edge of the freehub. Is this a situation that requires a
blind spritz of lube to the inside of the freehub and some luck, or am I going to have to try
and dismantle this sucker to apply grease and/or swap bearings?

You're boned. Besides the fact that it's an xt junk freehub that will self destruct under anyone
over 200lbs within 6 months if they really ride their bike, all of that grit is now trapped
inside that weak pos and there is no way to get all of it out.

JD

Bearing buddy WILL get it out. Been there, done that. I used to use a syringe to pump gear lube
through it until it's clean and non-crunchy 🙂.

There is no way to get it all out, it doesn't matter what buddy you use.

Quoted message said:

Now, with my Chris King, I don't worry about that kind of thing 🙂!

My Hugi 240 Disc has not been opened up in the 2 1/2 years I have been running it. Face it, [censored]
is [censored], as well as a hassle.

JD said:

David Kunz <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:<[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

JD said:

[email hidden] (supabonbon) wrote in message
news:<[email hidden]>...

>Well, I went and shot degreaser on my cassette while it was on the XT freehub. Once it was nice
>and sparkly, I spun it backwards. It sounded like it was grinding glass. Duh. What do I do? I
>know the bearings are at the outside edge of the freehub. Is this a situation that requires a
>blind spritz of lube to the inside of the freehub and some luck, or am I going to have to try
>and dismantle this sucker to apply grease and/or swap bearings?

You're boned. Besides the fact that it's an xt junk freehub that will self destruct under anyone
over 200lbs within 6 months if they really ride their bike, all of that grit is now trapped
inside that weak pos and there is no way to get all of it out.

JD

Bearing buddy WILL get it out. Been there, done that. I used to use a syringe to pump gear lube
through it until it's clean and non-crunchy 🙂.

There is no way to get it all out, it doesn't matter what buddy you use.

Quoted message said:

Now, with my Chris King, I don't worry about that kind of thing 🙂!

My Hugi 240 Disc has not been opened up in the 2 1/2 years I have been running it. Face it,
[censored] is [censored], as well as a hassle.

No arguments about Shimano (also why I'm running Chris King 🙂), but you can get enough flow through
the hub to wash everything out. You just need to squirt and turn, squirt and turn, squirt and
turn... -- until it's clean. At least, it always worked for me 🙂.

I considered Hugi. My LBS highly recommended it as basically bullet proof. But, when I was in the
market, they had just redesigned their pawls for a lighter hub and were having problems with them
breaking -- and I have a tendency to break light parts!

David

David Kunz <[email hidden]> wrote in message
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Quoted message said:

JD said:

David Kunz <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:<[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

JD wrote:

>[email hidden] (supabonbon) wrote in message
> news:<[email hidden]>...
>
>
>>Well, I went and shot degreaser on my cassette while it was on the XT freehub. Once it was
>>nice and sparkly, I spun it backwards. It sounded like it was grinding glass. Duh. What do I
>>do? I know the bearings are at the outside edge of the freehub. Is this a situation that
>>requires a blind spritz of lube to the inside of the freehub and some luck, or am I going to
>>have to try and dismantle this sucker to apply grease and/or swap bearings?
>
>
>You're boned. Besides the fact that it's an xt junk freehub that will self destruct under
>anyone over 200lbs within 6 months if they really ride their bike, all of that grit is now
>trapped inside that weak pos and there is no way to get all of it out.
>
>JD

Bearing buddy WILL get it out. Been there, done that. I used to use a syringe to pump gear lube
through it until it's clean and non-crunchy 🙂.

There is no way to get it all out, it doesn't matter what buddy you use.

Quoted message said:

Now, with my Chris King, I don't worry about that kind of thing 🙂!

My Hugi 240 Disc has not been opened up in the 2 1/2 years I have been running it. Face it,
[censored] is [censored], as well as a hassle.

No arguments about Shimano (also why I'm running Chris King 🙂), but you can get enough flow
through the hub to wash everything out. You just need to squirt and turn, squirt and turn, squirt
and turn... -- until it's clean. At least, it always worked for me 🙂.

Once the damage is done to [censored], it's done for.

Quoted message said:

I considered Hugi. My LBS highly recommended it as basically bullet proof. But, when I was in the
market, they had just redesigned their pawls for a lighter hub and were having problems with them
breaking -- and I have a tendency to break light parts!

I live about 3 miles from DT Swiss USA, though I've never had to use their warranty service on the
two Hugi hubsets I have.

JD

[email hidden] (JD) wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

I live about 3 miles from DT Swiss USA, though I've never had to use their warranty service on the
two Hugi hubsets I have.

How do the Hügis compare to CK? My XT hubset will die sooner or later and I would like to replace it
with one of those "will be around as long me" hubsets. Over here, CK costs easily twice the Hügi
hubset, but it has a five year warranty -vs- a two year warranty on the DT. The warranty says a lot
about how confident the vendor is in their product.

I am also curious: how does DT-USA write Hügi? The Ü has a different sound than the regular U and is
defined as a seperate character in the German alphabet. I have seperate keys for ö,ä and ü. If you
can't write an umlaut (English keyboard or oddball character set), then the accepted practice is to
add an e after the letter in question. ü becomes ue, o -> oe, etc. BTW-this is also how they are
pronounced. Huegi==Hügi, but Hugi!=Hügi. So does DT-USA write Hugi to Huegi?

-Dave

[email hidden] (Dave Stocker) wrote in message
news:<[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

[email hidden] (JD) wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

I live about 3 miles from DT Swiss USA, though I've never had to use their warranty service on
the two Hugi hubsets I have.

How do the Hügis compare to CK? My XT hubset will die sooner or later and I would like to replace
it with one of those "will be around as long me" hubsets. Over here, CK costs easily twice the
Hügi hubset, but it has a five year warranty -vs- a two year warranty on the DT. The warranty says
a lot about how confident the vendor is in their product.

I've had great luck with the Hugis. Unlike CK, you don't ever have to fiddle with them at all. CKs
require some fiddling occasionally, though are quite bombproof.

Quoted message said:

I am also curious: how does DT-USA write Hügi? The Ü has a different sound than the regular U and
is defined as a seperate character in the German alphabet. I have seperate keys for ö,ä and ü. If
you can't write an umlaut (English keyboard or oddball character set), then the accepted practice
is to add an e after the letter in question. ü becomes ue, o -> oe, etc. BTW-this is also how they
are pronounced. Huegi==Hügi, but Hugi!=Hügi. So does DT-USA write Hugi to Huegi?

I hope you didn't lose any sleep over that.

JD

JD said:

[email hidden] (Dave Stocker) wrote in message
news:<[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

[email hidden] (JD) wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

I live about 3 miles from DT Swiss USA, though I've never had to use their warranty service on
the two Hugi hubsets I have.

How do the Hügis compare to CK? My XT hubset will die sooner or later and I would like to replace
it with one of those "will be around as long me" hubsets. Over here, CK costs easily twice the
Hügi hubset, but it has a five year warranty -vs- a two year warranty on the DT. The warranty says
a lot about how confident the vendor is in their product.

I've had great luck with the Hugis. Unlike CK, you don't ever have to fiddle with them at all. CKs
require some fiddling occasionally, though are quite bombproof.

Quoted message said:

I am also curious: how does DT-USA write Hügi? The Ü has a different sound than the regular U and
is defined as a seperate character in the German alphabet. I have seperate keys for ö,ä and ü. If
you can't write an umlaut (English keyboard or oddball character set), then the accepted practice
is to add an e after the letter in question. ü becomes ue, o -> oe, etc. BTW-this is also how they
are pronounced. Huegi==Hügi, but Hugi!=Hügi. So does DT-USA write Hugi to Huegi?

I hope you didn't lose any sleep over that.

JD

The fiddling is becasue even though they use cartridge bearings, they work like cup and cone -- so
you get much less side-side slop. You need to adjust them every so often (easy). I've also had to do
a full disassemble, clean, and relube -- but I've put about 12k miles on it so far and works like
new (except a little quieter 🙂).

David