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Creaking - need troubleshooting help

Started by Collin O'Neill · · Last activity · 12 posts · 1,025 views

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Cycling Equipment
Published
17 March 2004
Last activity
19 March 2004
Original author
Collin O'Neill
Posts
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  1. Hi everyone,

    I have a Peugeot PY racing bike converted to single-speed.
    The frame is reynolds 501. It's been developing a creak
    coming some where from the head tube down to the bottom
    bracket., although it sounds like it's at one of the head
    tubes. The creak occurs when the frame flexes, i.e. when I
    hit a bump or when I crank on the pedal with full force. The
    creak is steadily getting worse. I inspected closely the
    frame, fork (both chromalloy) and stem (aluminum quill-type)
    and found no cracks. I want to make sure it's not the frame,
    so I disassembled, inpected and reassembled:

    1. the headset - the headset was a teeny bit loose, but
    there was no visible damage. Repacked with grease and
    tightened up so there was zero play and zero binding.
    2. the bottom bracket (and cranks, pedals) - good before and
    after overhaul
    3. front hub - all parts good before and after overhaul
    4. rear hub, although not for this

    So, what else can I try before shopping for a replacement
    frame? I'm a bit surprised I see no damage on the outside,
    because I understand that most steels crack on the
    outside. Perhaps the crack is at a weld joint on the
    inside of the tube?

    Thanks for your suggestions in advance,

    -Collin

  2. Collin O'Neill said:

    Hi everyone,

    I have a Peugeot PY racing bike converted to single-speed.
    The frame is reynolds 501. It's been developing a creak
    coming some where from the head tube down to the bottom
    bracket., although it sounds like it's at one of the head
    tubes. The creak occurs when the frame flexes, i.e. when I
    hit a bump or when I crank on the pedal with full force.
    The creak is steadily getting worse. I inspected closely
    the frame, fork (both chromalloy) and stem (aluminum quill-
    type) and found no cracks. I want to make sure it's not
    the frame, so I disassembled, inpected and reassembled:

    1. the headset - the headset was a teeny bit loose, but
    there was no visible damage. Repacked with grease and
    tightened up so there was zero play and zero binding.
    2. the bottom bracket (and cranks, pedals) - good before
    and after overhaul
    3. front hub - all parts good before and after overhaul
    4. rear hub, although not for this

    So, what else can I try before shopping for a replacement
    frame? I'm a bit surprised I see no damage on the outside,
    because I understand that most steels crack on the
    outside. Perhaps the crack is at a weld joint on the
    inside of the tube?

    Have an experienced bicycle mechanic diagnose the source.
    Noises resonate, and so may be just about anywhere. The
    noise is more likely from equipment than a cracked frame.
    Your Peugeot is a nice-handling bike. I wouldn't toss it
    gratuitously.

    --
    Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org Open every day since 1
    April, 1971

  3. A Muzi said:

    Have an experienced bicycle mechanic diagnose the source.

    Granted that sometimes the diagnosis is far from simple, has
    anyone ever tried to use some kind of stethoscopic device
    like in the medical practice?

    Sergio Pisa

  4. Quoted message said:

    I have a Peugeot PY racing bike converted to single-speed.
    The frame is reynolds 501. It's been developing a creak
    coming some where from the


    head

    Quoted message said:

    tube down to the bottom bracket., although it sounds like
    it's at one of


    the

    Quoted message said:

    head tubes. The creak occurs when the frame flexes, i.e.
    when I hit a bump or when I crank on the pedal with full
    force. The creak is steadily


    getting

    Quoted message said:

    worse. I inspected closely the frame, fork (both
    chromalloy) and stem (aluminum quill-type) and found no
    cracks. I want to make sure it's not


    the

    Quoted message said:

    frame, so I disassembled, inpected and reassembled:

    You might take a look at this piece on our website-

    www.ChainReaction.com/noises.htm

    It could help you run down the actual cause of the noise.
    Good luck!

    --Mike-- Chain Reaction Bicycles
    chainreactionbicycles.comchainreactionbicycles.com

  5. <SNIP>

    You might take a look at this piece on our website-

    www.ChainReaction.com/noises.htm

    It could help you run down the actual cause of the noise.
    Good luck!

    --Mike-- Chain Reaction Bicycles
    chainreactionbicycles.comchainreactionbicycles.com [/B][/QUOTE]

    Good stuff Mike.
    Park Tools has similar information and some unique at:
    http://tinyurl.com/yw4vu

    I find that using Anti-SieZe compounds where grease is called for in a non-bearing surface last longer and has the same desired effects. The material must be used with care.
    I am not trolling for bourdreaux on this, I am serious. it works and stays working longer than almost any grease I have tried.
    Teflon Tape used for plumbing also works on bottom bracket threads.

  6. Sergio SERVADIO said:

    Granted that sometimes the diagnosis is far from simple,
    has anyone ever tried to use some kind of stethoscopic
    device like in the medical practice?

    Yes, a mechanic's stethoscope. It's a common and easily
    obtainable item, and quite useful for diagnosing noises in
    transmissions, engines and other complex lumps.

    I am inclined to think that they would be a lot less useful
    for a bicycle, which is far simpler mechanically.

    --
    Ted Bennett Portland OR

  7. Sergio SERVADIO <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

    Quoted message said:
    A Muzi said:

    Have an experienced bicycle mechanic diagnose the
    source.

    Granted that sometimes the diagnosis is far from simple,
    has anyone ever tried to use some kind of stethoscopic
    device like in the medical practice?

    Sergio Pisa

    Dear Sergio,

    There are indeed $5 mechanic's stethoscopes, with a long
    metal probe for touching small parts of engines instead
    of a broad flat disk for seeing how sensitive patients
    are to cold:

    harborfreight.comDisplayitem.taf
    umber=41966

    The trouble is that it's almost impossible to apply any
    stethoscope to a bicycle when it's rolling and actually
    making that annoying little noise down there somewhere.

    It's extremely difficult to hold any probe in place on the
    frame and practically impossible to touch it to something
    like our old friend the creaky pedal, crank, or BB.

    And even if we could hold the end of a stethoscope to the
    bicycle in motion, we might not be able to distinguish the
    funny noise from all the other normal bike noises that the
    stethoscope magnifies.

    Metal, unfortunately, transmits sound quite well. You can
    actually hear a badly indexed headset as it swivels
    (inaudible to the human ear) by putting an ordinary
    stethoscope on a motionless rear axle.

    The mechanic's stethoscope is mostly used to probe into a
    tangled engine bay with the motor running until you finally
    touch the last part that you'd suspect and the faint ticking
    noise becomes enormously louder.

    Carl Fogel

  8. Quoted message said:
    A Muzi said:

    Have an experienced bicycle mechanic diagnose the source.

    Sergio SERVADIO said:

    Granted that sometimes the diagnosis is far from simple,
    has anyone ever tried to use some kind of stethoscopic
    device like in the medical practice?

    Probably. But an experienced mechanic will hear it and tell
    you what it is promptly. A chainring bolt noise is different
    from a loose right cup noise. A crack in an arm sounds
    different than a crack in a frame.

    --
    Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org Open every day since 1
    April, 1971

  9. I had a creek in my mountain bike frame at the end of last
    season. It ended up being loose chain ring bolts of all
    things. I spent hours fiddling with bottom brackets & crank
    arm bolts. All the odvious stuff. The chain ring bolts were
    the problem.

  10. Evan Evans said:

    I had a creek in my mountain bike frame at the end of
    last season.

    You shouldn't ride so much in the wet.

    Sorry, I couldn't help myself.

    --
    terry morse Palo Alto, CA bike.terrymorse.combike.terrymorse.com

  11. "Collin O'Neill" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

    Quoted message said:

    Hi everyone, ....

    Quoted message said:

    So, what else can I try before shopping for a
    replacement frame?


    ....

    Maybe obvious, but be sure it's not the seat or seatpost by
    checking if it goes away when out of the saddle... Seatpost
    noises never sound like they are from the seatpost!

    Nick

  12. Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    I had a creek in my mountain bike frame at the end of
    last season.

    You shouldn't ride so much in the wet.

    Sorry, I couldn't help myself.

    I thought at first he meant just that. My bike has given
    birth (or at least dumped out a whole lot of water) several
    times during the winter. I finally gave up on the DuraAce
    bottom bracket and put a '105 in there. I still collect
    water, but at least the bearings don't require twice-yearly
    overhauls.

    --Mike-- Chain Reaction Bicycles
    chainreactionbicycles.com.comchainreactionbicycles.com.com

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