Crankset Question

In article <RMP0a.3947$qp6.829@fe01>, Fachausschuß@Saarbrucken.net.de says...

Quoted message said:

I have a touring/commuting bike that I really love. I'm running an Shimano Deore crankset on it.
The chainrings on it are about wasted, and the crank itself is really starting to show it's age.
I'm going to put a newer crank on the bike. It currently has a 122.5mm square taper bottom bracket.
I've always noticed a fair amount of "flex" or "give" in crank/BB . I'm looking into replacing it
with a newer XTR crankset and BB that uses the pipe billet spindle and the hollow tech arms. Have
any of you that have made this change notice that it is significantly "stiffer"? Is this type of
setup worth the additional cost over a traditional square taper design?

I have a Coda 900 crankset on my road bike and a deore DX crank on my commuter. In case you are not
familiar with the Coda crank, it uses a large, larger than XTR, hollow aluminum BB that connects to
the cranks via a lobed and tapered interface. I can honestly say that I can feel no difference
between the two cranks. If this was me, I would just get new chainrings for the existing cranks.
-----------------
Alex __O _-\<,_ (_)/ (_)

Quoted message said:

Have any of you that have made this change notice that it is significantly "stiffer"? Is this type
of setup worth the additional cost over a traditional square taper design?

My guess is that flex is in the frame, rather than in the crank. That has been my experience as a
masher. Currently I am running a Sugino AT triple on a touring type bike and notice no flex. But
lighter steel frames with short coupled cranks like my old SR Sequioa flex badly under load.

jon isaacs

Jon Isaacs

"Alex Rodriguez" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

In article <RMP0a.3947$qp6.829@fe01>,

Fachausschuß@Saarbrucken.net.de says...

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

I have a touring/commuting bike that I really love. I'm

running an Shimano

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Deore crankset on it. The chainrings on it are about

wasted, and the crank

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

itself is really starting to show it's age. I'm going to

put a newer crank

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

on the bike. It currently has a 122.5mm square taper bottom bracket.

I've always noticed

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

a fair amount of "flex" or "give" in crank/BB . I'm

looking into replacing

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

it with a newer XTR crankset and BB that uses the pipe

billet spindle and

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

the hollow tech arms. Have any of you that have made

this change notice

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

that it is significantly "stiffer"? Is this type of

setup worth the

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

additional cost over a traditional square taper design?

No!

Quoted message said:

I have a Coda 900 crankset on my road bike and a deore DX

crank on my commuter.

Quoted message said:

In case you are not familiar with the Coda crank, it uses

a large, larger than

Quoted message said:

XTR, hollow aluminum BB that connects to the cranks via a

lobed and tapered

Quoted message said:

interface. I can honestly say that I can feel no

difference between the two

Quoted message said:

cranks. If this was me, I would just get new chainrings

for the existing

Quoted message said:

cranks.

I agree, don't waste your money like that.

XTR cranks tend to come loose, ruining the splines. I know two people this has happened to. Looking
at that Shimano spline design, there's no real press fit. It's a bad design. I don't care what
Shimano's engineers think -- I feel perfectly comfortable second-guessing them on this one. It
sucks. I wouldn't buy one. If you like the fat, hollow tube axle and splined interface, get an ISIS
crank instead. It's a better design, with a slight taper, and an actual press fit.

Furthermore, the DX crank is compatible with plain old generic chainrings, which are cheap, and
available in a wide variety of sizes.. Newer XTR cranks need XTR rings, or zooty aftermarket ones.

Matt O.

"Matt O'Toole" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

"Alex Rodriguez" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

In article <RMP0a.3947$qp6.829@fe01>,

Fachausschuß@Saarbrucken.net.de says...

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

I have a touring/commuting bike that I really love. I'm

running an Shimano

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Deore crankset on it. The chainrings on it are about

wasted, and the crank

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

itself is really starting to show it's age. I'm going to

put a newer crank

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

on the bike. It currently has a 122.5mm square taper bottom bracket.

I've always noticed

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

a fair amount of "flex" or "give" in crank/BB . I'm

looking into replacing

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

it with a newer XTR crankset and BB that uses the pipe

billet spindle and

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

the hollow tech arms. Have any of you that have made

this change notice

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

that it is significantly "stiffer"? Is this type of

setup worth the

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

additional cost over a traditional square taper design?

No!

Quoted message said:

I have a Coda 900 crankset on my road bike and a deore DX

crank on my commuter.

Quoted message said:

In case you are not familiar with the Coda crank, it uses

a large, larger than

Quoted message said:

XTR, hollow aluminum BB that connects to the cranks via a

lobed and tapered

Quoted message said:

interface. I can honestly say that I can feel no

difference between the two

Quoted message said:

cranks. If this was me, I would just get new chainrings

for the existing

Quoted message said:

cranks.

I agree, don't waste your money like that.

XTR cranks tend to come loose, ruining the splines. I know two people this has happened to.

Splined "Octalink" cranks, unlike traditional square taper press fits, are required to be
periodically retighted. I believe Shimano states this in their literature.

Quoted message said:

Looking at that Shimano spline design, there's no real press fit. It's a bad design. I don't care
what Shimano's engineers think -- I feel perfectly comfortable second-guessing them on this one. It
sucks. I wouldn't buy one. If you like the fat, hollow tube axle and splined interface, get an ISIS
crank instead. It's a better design, with a slight taper, and an actual press fit.

Furthermore, the DX crank is compatible with plain old generic chainrings, which are cheap, and
available in a wide variety of sizes.. Newer XTR cranks need XTR rings, or zooty aftermarket ones.

Yes.

Robin Hubert