Crank Brothers Alloy Pump

I too bought one and threw it away after haveing nothing but difficulty
getting it to pump up a road tire to 95 lbs. P.O.S in all respects.
Bought a Topeak road morph and now have one on each of my bikes.

Wasatch5k said:

Bought a new Crank Brothers Alloy Pump last week. Used it for the first time
today- What a PITA!! It would not pump past 80psi without the head popping
off the presta valve (from the pressure) I flipped the head the right way to
lock it down, but it just kept popping off! It seems the head does not grip
the valve tight enough yet the pump is rated at 120psi -- any suggestions?

Yeah, this is generic, but probably applies to this pump like it does every
other one I've ever seen. Unscrew the threaded cap that goes over the head. pull
out the rubber doughnut and the little plastice doowitz behind it. You'll see
the doughnut has a big hole side and a small hole side. Put the plastic widget
back in with the raised portion away from the opening. Then put the doughnut
back in with the small opening facing out. It's that last line that's important.

If your pump head was already assembled that way then you've got a [censored] pump.

Ron

RonSonic said:

On Wed, 9 Mar 2005 20:15:23 -0700, "Wasatch5k" <[email hidden]>

Quoted message said:

Bought a new Crank Brothers Alloy Pump last week. Used it for the
first time today- What a PITA!! It would not pump past 80psi without
the head popping off the presta valve (from the pressure) I flipped
the head the right way to lock it down, but it just kept popping
off! It seems the head does not grip the valve tight enough yet the
pump is rated at 120psi -- any suggestions?

Yeah, this is generic, but probably applies to this pump like it does
every other one I've ever seen. Unscrew the threaded cap that goes
over the head. pull out the rubber doughnut and the little plastice
doowitz behind it. You'll see the doughnut has a big hole side and a
small hole side. Put the plastic widget back in with the raised
portion away from the opening. Then put the doughnut back in with the
small opening facing out. It's that last line that's important.

If your pump head was already assembled that way then you've got a
[censored] pump.

Ron

You may want to state the reason for this:
The heads are setup for Schrader valves initially. Flipping the rubber
washer-grommet inside places the Presta side out, which has more rubber, and
grips the stem better. Virtually all mini pumps are like this.
--
Phil, Squid-in-Training

I doubt whether a pump set up for Shraeder stems would hold 2 psi on a
Presta--his pops of at about 80.

Squid-in-Training said:

RonSonic said:

On Wed, 9 Mar 2005 20:15:23 -0700, "Wasatch5k" <[email hidden]>

Quoted message said:

Bought a new Crank Brothers Alloy Pump last week. Used it for the
first time today- What a PITA!! It would not pump past 80psi without
the head popping off the presta valve (from the pressure) I flipped
the head the right way to lock it down, but it just kept popping
off! It seems the head does not grip the valve tight enough yet the
pump is rated at 120psi -- any suggestions?

Yeah, this is generic, but probably applies to this pump like it does
every other one I've ever seen. Unscrew the threaded cap that goes
over the head. pull out the rubber doughnut and the little plastice
doowitz behind it. You'll see the doughnut has a big hole side and a
small hole side. Put the plastic widget back in with the raised
portion away from the opening. Then put the doughnut back in with the
small opening facing out. It's that last line that's important.

If your pump head was already assembled that way then you've got a
[censored] pump.

Ron

You may want to state the reason for this:
The heads are setup for Schrader valves initially. Flipping the rubber
washer-grommet inside places the Presta side out, which has more rubber, and
grips the stem better. Virtually all mini pumps are like this.

Thanks Phil. I didn't know it was a mini. Guess the default for them would be
schrader valves.

Ron

Possibly tighten the cap over the gasket to decrease the size of the
gasket hole (as with a silca floor pump)?

I haven't fully come to terms with my Crank Bros. alloy pump yet either
(but it got 5 stars from Mountain Bike Action mag so its gotta be good
;-)). In fact, I have yet to put it into action in a road situation as
I carry CO2 and the pump is a backup carried only on expedition-length
rides.

The pump definitely looks cool - did you mount the funky bracket on
your bike? I have taken to putting mine in my camelbak (if I am using
it) or in a jersey pocket so as to not ruin the aesthetics of the bike.

App

On Thu, 10 Mar 2005 17:13:02 GMT, "Leo Lichtman" <[email hidden]>

Quoted message said:

I doubt whether a pump set up for Shraeder stems would hold 2 psi on a
Presta--his pops of at about 80.

Sure, you shove it on there and clamp and you'll get some air in there.

Ron

RonSonic said:

Yeah, this is generic, but probably applies to this pump like it does every
other one I've ever seen. Unscrew the threaded cap that goes over the head. pull
out the rubber doughnut and the little plastice doowitz behind it. You'll see
the doughnut has a big hole side and a small hole side. Put the plastic widget
back in with the raised portion away from the opening. Then put the doughnut
back in with the small opening facing out. It's that last line that's important.

If your pump head was already assembled that way then you've got a [censored] pump.

Ron

Not the problem--

http://tinyurl.com/6j4gu

The pump has two heads -- one for each type of valve.

--

Let the bridges I burn light my way...

Quoted message said:

Possibly tighten the cap over the gasket to decrease the size of the
gasket hole (as with a silca floor pump)?

I haven't fully come to terms with my Crank Bros. alloy pump yet either
(but it got 5 stars from Mountain Bike Action mag so its gotta be good
;-)). In fact, I have yet to put it into action in a road situation as
I carry CO2 and the pump is a backup carried only on expedition-length
rides.

The pump definitely looks cool - did you mount the funky bracket on
your bike? I have taken to putting mine in my camelbak (if I am using
it) or in a jersey pocket so as to not ruin the aesthetics of the bike.

App

I put mine in my camelback also, I don't like mounting things to my
frame with zip ties and double sided tape. Your right though, the pump
looks cool.

You best try pumping up your road tires before relying on it as backup...

Nate
--

Let the bridges I burn light my way...

biketoolsect.com offers a german locking pump head for $4
and valve tools: Am-flo

Wasatch5k said:

RonSonic said:

Yeah, this is generic, but probably applies to this pump like it does every
other one I've ever seen. Unscrew the threaded cap that goes over the head. pull
out the rubber doughnut and the little plastice doowitz behind it. You'll see
the doughnut has a big hole side and a small hole side. Put the plastic widget
back in with the raised portion away from the opening. Then put the doughnut
back in with the small opening facing out. It's that last line that's important.

If your pump head was already assembled that way then you've got a [censored] pump.

Ron

Not the problem--

http://tinyurl.com/6j4gu

The pump has two heads -- one for each type of valve.

Then jump to the last line.

It looks like they just added "features" rather than worrying about having the
thing perform the simple basic function of inserting pressurized air into an
innertube. Dual whatsits and stereo heads and blah.

I usually reject added features beyond the basics. So few things function all
that well on a basic level I don't want to see any additional failure modes.

Let me know if you find a decent mini-pump.

Ron

RonSonic said:

Then jump to the last line.

It looks like they just added "features" rather than worrying about having the
thing perform the simple basic function of inserting pressurized air into an
innertube. Dual whatsits and stereo heads and blah.

I usually reject added features beyond the basics. So few things function all
that well on a basic level I don't want to see any additional failure modes.

Let me know if you find a decent mini-pump.

Ron

Crank brother stuff is *usually* solid, and it comes with a lifetime
warranty. Anyways, I e-mailed Crank Brothers with my problem. We will
see if they do the right thing.
--

Let the bridges I burn light my way...

Wasatch5k said:

RonSonic said:

Yeah, this is generic, but probably applies to this pump like it does every
other one I've ever seen. Unscrew the threaded cap that goes over the head. pull
out the rubber doughnut and the little plastice doowitz behind it. You'll see
the doughnut has a big hole side and a small hole side. Put the plastic widget
back in with the raised portion away from the opening. Then put the doughnut
back in with the small opening facing out. It's that last line that's important.

If your pump head was already assembled that way then you've got a [censored] pump.

Ron

Not the problem--

http://tinyurl.com/6j4gu

The pump has two heads -- one for each type of valve.

Dear Wasatch,

The catalogue number for the pump in that link does not
inspire confidence:

CRA-PA-B

I hope that the two heads are not labeled A and B.

Carl Fogel

Quoted message said:

You best try pumping up your road tires before relying on it as

backup...

Quoted message said:

Nate
--

Let the bridges I burn light my way...

Actually have tried it - to about 80 psi - just got tired of grunting
away. Seemed to work about as well as any mini-pump in terms of
effort. It has those high volume / high pressure mode settings. High
volume is ok, and the high pressure setting reduces effort (which is
necessary about 40-60 psi) but that last 50 or so psi are a bit of a
pain...

Better than hoofing it though. Course, a decent frame pump works much
better and efficiently. And it doesn't run out of co2.

But I'm so lazy...

App