crank arms

I just bought some forged alum cotterless Sugeno cranks. I like them a
lot. Good price, light and good looking.
http://tinyurl.com/2gcp4b

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Correct me if I am wrong, but the crank size does not contribute to the
speed of the unicycle. The wheel size does.

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No I think the crank length does do something. Someone told me the
shorter the cranklength the faster you go and the longer the length the
more tork you have.

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littleman said:

No I think the crank length does do something. Someone told me the
shorter the cranklength the faster you go and the longer the length the
more tork you have.

If it does do anything it would be a very small amount.

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But putting on shorter cranks can help some, especially if he has 150's
or bigger now. I think the 26 torker has cotterless cranks. They should
have a square hole where they bolt to the axle. Then, any cotterless
crank should fit.

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Does anybody know approximately how much faster the unicycle can go if
there are shorter cranks on?

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dunawan said:

Correct me if I am wrong, but the crank size does not contribute to the
speed of the unicycle. The wheel size does.

If the cranks are longer your feet have to move around a larger
circumference therefore travelling further each revolution, meaning
short cranks make it easier to go faster.

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So if you swapped those for 127's I bet you would pick up a lot of
speed. You could go shorter then that on a 26 I would think, I run
125's on my 36. It is flat here, but a 26 is geared lower. I bet 127's
would be good.

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on my 36" when i went from 150s to 127s I probably picked up 2-3mph. But
it also made it easier to go longer distances because your legs don't
have to move as much.

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Measure the distance from the center of the pedal axle to the center of
the hub axle, and tell us what it is.

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didn't mean to gaff you guys off I just lost track of this thread. I am
new to this stuff. I don't have anything around to measure the cranks
with till tomorrow. Does anyone know what is standard on the twenty
six inch torker? Has anyone ever changed cranks on a 26 torker?
Thanks again

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Changing cranks is a standard "tuning option" for any unicycle.

The speed of the unicycle is governed by how fast the wheel is
spinning, and the size of the wheel.

How fast it is spinning is solely controlled by how fast you can spin
it. Long cranks mean your legs have to move further in a clumsier
movement; short cranks mean you can spin little dainty circles really
quickly.

The standard cranks sizes are more or less as follows: 175, 170, 160,
152, 150, 140, 127, 125, 114, 110, 102, 90, 80 mm, although there are
other options. They wouldn't make all these options if it made no
difference.

I have tried most of those sizes on one sized wheel or another.

As a rule of thumb, a 10% difference in crank length makes about a 10%
difference in speed. However, the ratio breaks down with big changes
because there are too many variables: wheel size, tyre section,
terrain, skill level, strength, nerves...

As most people ride at around 8 - 12 mph, a 10% difference is only
about 1 mph, give or take.

However, choose the right length of cranks and you will have an
efficient and comfortable pedaling action that you can sustain for mile
after mile. Cranks that are too long will tire you out with big clumsy
leg movements. Cranks that are too short will reduce your control of
the unicycle and tire you out on hills.

After much experimentation, I have settled on 165s for muni, and 114s
for road and easy cross country, with 125s for general purpose. There
are faster riders than me who use longer ones, and faster riders who
use shorter ones. It is a personal thing. It's like asking, "What is
the best gear for a bicycle?"

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dunawan said:

Does anybody know approximately how much faster the unicycle can go if
there are shorter cranks on?

You're half right when you say that it's wheel size that determines
your speed:for a given pedalling cadence (in revolutions per minute),
your speed will be decided by how large your wheel is. A given rpm on
a large wheel will move you faster than on a smaller wheel.

However, having shorter cranks means you have to move your feet in
smaller circles during each revolution. This can allow you to
comfortably achieve and sustain a higher cadence, and therefore allow
you to go faster. There's a tradeoff though: you have shorter levers
to push against, so you have less control, it's harder to push the
wheel over bumps, it's harder to go up hills.

Depending on your crank length, having shorter cranks can make quite a
difference. I've found on my big wheels that using shorter cranks has
gained me me maybe 1-3 mph in terms of sustainable speed (as opposed to
sprinting). This is only true until they get too short for control, at
which point you start going slower and getting more tired.

Of course, my big wheels had fairly short cranks to start with. On
smaller wheel with longer cranks it might make more difference.

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That's what most seem to be advertised with. If it is flat where you
live, and you are after speed, 100 mm would be about right, maybe
shorter. If you have a lot of hills, maybe a bit longer. No matter what
size you get, you will always want to try another!
You need a puller to remove the cranks. I recommend this one, only a
few dollars more then some, and it removes all cranks, cotterless (like
yours) as well as splined (that you will likely own eventually). I have
one and it works really well.
http://tinyurl.com/392uxq
I would advise you to buy your cranks from AEB as well. They have the
best prices.🙂

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feel the light said:

I would advise you to buy your cranks from AEB as well. They have the
best prices.🙂

how much are those guys paying you, anyways?

united crank arms from UDC are 12 bucks a pair and have a wide
selection of sizes.
if you want shorter than 80mm(like me!)you might need to have a bike
shop drill em for you....

actually, i only have 50mm cranks on my road uni. on my halfway decent
one i have between 89mm and 114mm depending on what sort of riding ill
be doing.

its mostly riding style and personal preference, but i truely hate long
crank arms, even for hills, at most i use 114s

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