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Converting to fixed query

Started by Paul D · · Last activity · 6 posts · 427 views

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UK and Europe
Published
22 January 2006
Last activity
23 January 2006
Original author
Paul D
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6
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  1. Hi all

    I've picked up a fixed rear wheel to swap for my single speed one for a
    crack at fixed commuting (and improving cadence/pedalling style etc ready
    for the start of the TT season). I got a track sprocket & lockring with the
    new wheel, which is 1/8", and of course all the rest of my bits are 3/32"
    (campag chainset with choice of 42 or 48 rings, SRAM chain).

    So, as I will soon need a new chain anyway, do I buy another cog sized 3/32"
    and a new standard chain, or stick with the 1/8" cog and buy similar sized
    chain & new chainring (I guess campag track chainrings will fit a mirage
    chainset?). Is there any benefit to using 1/8" over 3/32" for evryday fixed
    use (stronger?)? Are track rings & chains more expensive than standard road
    ones? The new kit will be used exclusively outdoors, no track use.

    Ta in advance.

  2. "Paul D" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    Hi all

    I've picked up a fixed rear wheel to swap for my single speed one for a
    crack at fixed commuting (and improving cadence/pedalling style etc ready
    for the start of the TT season). I got a track sprocket & lockring with
    the new wheel, which is 1/8", and of course all the rest of my bits are
    3/32" (campag chainset with choice of 42 or 48 rings, SRAM chain).

    So, as I will soon need a new chain anyway, do I buy another cog sized
    3/32" and a new standard chain, or stick with the 1/8" cog and buy similar
    sized chain & new chainring (I guess campag track chainrings will fit a
    mirage chainset?). Is there any benefit to using 1/8" over 3/32" for
    evryday fixed use (stronger?)? Are track rings & chains more expensive
    than standard road ones? The new kit will be used exclusively outdoors, no
    track use.

    Ta in advance.

    No real reason to change the chainwheel IMHO (assuming you are OK with the
    gearing) - I have a 1/8 sprocket and 3/32 chainwheel with a 1/8 chain on my
    fixed ... works fine.

    Cost is probably least for the 1/8 chain option (they're just BMX ones
    really!) - you should be able to just take the bigger ring off the chainset
    (you'll need new, shorter, bolts) and bolt the small chainring on the inside
    of the spider to get the right chainline. 42 x 17 will give you about 67"
    which is probably a good place to start with fixed ( 42 x 16 will give you
    about 71"😉

    Rob

  3. inline

    "RG" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:


    "Paul D" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    Hi all

    I've picked up a fixed rear wheel to swap for my single speed one for a
    crack at fixed commuting (and improving cadence/pedalling style etc ready
    for the start of the TT season). I got a track sprocket & lockring with
    the new wheel, which is 1/8", and of course all the rest of my bits are
    3/32" (campag chainset with choice of 42 or 48 rings, SRAM chain).

    So, as I will soon need a new chain anyway, do I buy another cog sized
    3/32" and a new standard chain, or stick with the 1/8" cog and buy
    similar sized chain & new chainring (I guess campag track chainrings will
    fit a mirage chainset?). Is there any benefit to using 1/8" over 3/32"
    for evryday fixed use (stronger?)? Are track rings & chains more
    expensive than standard road ones? The new kit will be used exclusively
    outdoors, no track use.

    Ta in advance.

    No real reason to change the chainwheel IMHO (assuming you are OK with the
    gearing) - I have a 1/8 sprocket and 3/32 chainwheel with a 1/8 chain on
    my fixed ... works fine.

    Never thought of that - great idea as i've just found wiggle doing a miche
    1/8 chain for £6.99

    Quoted message said:


    Cost is probably least for the 1/8 chain option (they're just BMX ones
    really!) - you should be able to just take the bigger ring off the
    chainset (you'll need new, shorter, bolts) and bolt the small chainring on
    the inside of the spider to get the right chainline. 42 x 17 will give
    you about 67" which is probably a good place to start with fixed ( 42 x 16
    will give you about 71"😉

    As mentioned in the OP i've been running my commuter as a single speed (it's
    an 80's 531-framed Raleigh with horizontal dropouts) and have already
    removed a chainring (using washers to pad out the double bolts). Had a play
    with gearing originally, which I settled at 72" 48x18. The new sprocket's a
    16 so I was going for 42x16 as I've got an unused 42 ring kicking about -
    just the chain sizing problem that got me thinking today. Thanks for the
    advice.

    Quoted message said:


    Rob

    btw, those of you who care about classic bike look away now - my 126mm OLN
    frame has sucessfully completed it's year and a half sprung to 130mm for
    shimano 9spd and single speed duties with no ill effects, and is now
    starting its new life clamped down to 120mm OLN for my new track hub!

  4. Paul D said:

    Hi all

    I've picked up a fixed rear wheel to swap for my single speed one for a
    crack at fixed commuting (and improving cadence/pedalling style etc ready
    for the start of the TT season). I got a track sprocket & lockring with the
    new wheel, which is 1/8", and of course all the rest of my bits are 3/32"
    (campag chainset with choice of 42 or 48 rings, SRAM chain).

    So, as I will soon need a new chain anyway, do I buy another cog sized 3/32"
    and a new standard chain, or stick with the 1/8" cog and buy similar sized
    chain & new chainring (I guess campag track chainrings will fit a mirage
    chainset?). Is there any benefit to using 1/8" over 3/32" for evryday fixed
    use (stronger?)? Are track rings & chains more expensive than standard road
    ones? The new kit will be used exclusively outdoors, no track use.

    Campag track kit uses an extra large BCD, 144mm these days (was once
    151mm) but TA make very nice 1/8" track chainrings in "road" drillings.

    Track stuff tends to be expensive - TA is the exception - because of the
    limited market, and because for Shimano and Campag it's only available
    as the top-of-the-line groupset (DA or Record).

    1/8" is my preference, and is the only way to go if you want a "proper"
    track chain with full bushings - although I use a cheap SRAM PC-1 chain.

  5. In the referenced article said:


    "Paul D" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    Hi all

    I've picked up a fixed rear wheel to swap for my single speed one
    for a crack at fixed commuting (and improving cadence/pedalling
    style etc ready for the start of the TT season). I got a track
    sprocket & lockring with the new wheel, which is 1/8", and of
    course all the rest of my bits are 3/32" (campag chainset with
    choice of 42 or 48 rings, SRAM chain).

    So, as I will soon need a new chain anyway, do I buy another cog
    sized 3/32" and a new standard chain, or stick with the 1/8" cog
    and buy similar sized chain & new chainring (I guess campag track
    chainrings will fit a mirage chainset?). Is there any benefit
    to using 1/8" over 3/32" for evryday fixed use (stronger?)? Are
    track rings & chains more expensive than standard road ones? The
    new kit will be used exclusively outdoors, no track use.

    No real reason to change the chainwheel IMHO (assuming you are OK
    with the gearing) - I have a 1/8 sprocket and 3/32 chainwheel with
    a 1/8 chain on my fixed ... works fine.

    I used to run with exactly this setup on the fixed I used for
    commuting. I thought it ran smoother than the completely 3/32 setup
    I used on the fixed bike I used for time-trialling.

    One of the advantages of 1/8 chains is that you can[1] get what's
    called half-links for fine adjustment of the chain length. Very
    useful if you want to convert a bike with vertical dropouts to
    fixed.

    [1] Not sure if you still can. I know I've seen and used them and
    probably still have a few lying around.
    --
    Dennis Davis, BUCS, University of Bath, Bath, BA2 7AY, UK
    [email hidden]

  6. Dennis Davis said:


    One of the advantages of 1/8 chains is that you can[1] get what's
    called half-links for fine adjustment of the chain length. Very
    useful if you want to convert a bike with vertical dropouts to
    fixed.

    [1] Not sure if you still can. I know I've seen and used them and
    probably still have a few lying around.

    They are still available. There are also 3/32 versions, and even a 1/8
    chain made entirely of half-links.

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