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Convert Hybrid to Touring bike

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20 March 2004
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27 March 2004
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[censored] Smallboy
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  1. Can a good hybrid be made into an adequate good touring
    bike? By adding dropped bars and going to bar end friction
    shifters? It seems that it would be cheaper for me to get a
    hybrid because they have a 26" tires, canti breaks, and low
    gears. These three things add a lot of cost to a bike.

    I would want to be able to add front and rear bags and I am
    not sure if racks would fit.

    The touring bike I like would cost 4k and is more than I
    can afford.

  2. Quoted post said:

    Originally posted by [censored] Smallboy
    Can a good hybrid be made into an adequate good touring
    bike? By adding dropped bars and going to bar end friction
    shifters? It seems that it would be cheaper for me to get a
    hybrid because they have a 26" tires, canti breaks, and low
    gears. These three things add a lot of cost to a bike.

    I would want to be able to add front and rear bags and I am
    not sure if racks would fit.

    The touring bike I like would cost 4k and is more than I
    can afford.

    Which hyrids have 26" wheels?

  3. Quoted post said:

    Originally posted by [censored] Smallboy
    Can a good hybrid be made into an adequate good touring
    bike? By adding dropped bars and going to bar end friction
    shifters? It seems that it would be cheaper for me to get a
    hybrid because they have a 26" tires, canti breaks, and low
    gears. These three things add a lot of cost to a bike.

    I would want to be able to add front and rear bags and I am
    not sure if racks would fit.

    The touring bike I like would cost 4k and is more than I
    can afford.

    $799 will get you either the 26" wheeled REI Safari:
    http://tinyurl.com/vcqi
    or the 700C wheeled Randonee with drop bars:
    http://tinyurl.com/2fus3

    Converting a hybrid can work, but mounting racks is usually a challange.
    There are also many other toruing bicycles worth considering that are far less that $4K.
    Adventure Cycling's magazine just published a page full of choices, including some recumbents, and "folding" bicycles suitable for touring. They also have an article in the most recent edition about touring with a BOB trailer.

  4. Check out the new surly long haul trucker. It is a real
    touring bike and the frame/fork is going to sell for $400
    range. The 54cm and smaller frames are spec'd with 26" wheel
    sizes for clearance. You could mount your mountain bike
    components. It's going to have front and rear rack mounts,
    all the brazeons including a spoke holder. It's supposed to
    be available in April or May. It's only drawback is the ugly
    pea soup green color.

    www.surlybikes.com

  5. On Sat, 20 Mar 2004 10:29:53 -0800, [censored] Smallboy <[email hidden]>

    Quoted message said:

    Can a good hybrid be made into an adequate good touring
    bike? By adding dropped bars and going to bar end friction
    shifters? It seems that it would be cheaper for me to get a
    hybrid because they have a 26" tires, canti breaks, and low
    gears. These three things add a lot of cost to a bike.

    I would want to be able to add front and rear bags and I am
    not sure if racks would fit.

    The touring bike I like would cost 4k and is more than I
    can afford.

    I looked first at the REI bikes but I would like steel -
    maybe there are no steel hybrid bikes 🙁 ??

  6. Quoted message said:

    The touring bike I like would cost 4k and is more than I
    can afford.

    Dunno who told you that but there are many tpuring bikes way
    under $4000. Hell, I'd buyild you one for $2500 that would
    make you the envy of every tour you went on. For starters, a
    Bruce Gordom BLT with racks is about $1850 and they don't
    get any more touring than that. www.bgcycles.com Phil Brown

  7. Have you tried looking into used machines? I'll bet you can
    find some good deals there.

    - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

    "May you have the wind at your back. And a really low gear
    for the hills!"

    Chris Zacho ~ "Your Friendly Neighborhood Wheelman"

    Chris'Z Corner geocities.comczcorner

  8. From: [email hidden] (Jonathan=A0Kaplan)

    Quoted message said:

    Check out the new surly long haul trucker. It is a real
    touring bike and the frame/fork is going to sell for $400
    range. The 54cm and smaller frames are spec'd with 26"
    wheel sizes for clearance. You could mount your mountain
    bike components. It's going to have front and rear rack
    mounts, all the brazeons including a spoke holder. It's
    supposed to be available in April or May. It's only
    drawback is the ugly pea soup green color.

    Quoted message said:

    surlybikes.comsurlybikes.com

    "Ugly pea soup green color"? You mean Celeste? lol

    - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

    "May you have the wind at your back. And a really low gear
    for the hills!"

    Chris Zacho ~ "Your Friendly Neighborhood Wheelman"

    Chris'Z Corner geocities.comczcorner

  9. You can tour on lots of different types of bikes. I have.

    The two musts are

    1. You must be able to carry your luggage without it banging
    off your heels or similar.
    2. You should have low enough gears for the terrain you
    are going to.

    I've toured (mostly) on touring bikes, but have done several
    tours on mountain bikes, have done about 4 on a Moulton APB
    small wheel bike and done a couple on a hybrid.

  10. In article <[email hidden]>,
    [email hidden] says...

    Quoted message said:

    Can a good hybrid be made into an adequate good touring
    bike? By adding dropped bars and going to bar end friction
    shifters? It seems that it would be cheaper for me to get
    a hybrid because they have a 26" tires, canti breaks, and
    low gears. These three things add a lot of cost to a bike.

    I would want to be able to add front and rear bags and I
    am not sure if racks would fit.

    The touring bike I like would cost 4k and is more than I
    can afford.


    My touring bike was inexpensive because the manufacturer did
    more or less what you suggested (back in '97 he used a
    longer than usual CrMo hybrid frame added drop bars, RSX
    brifters and cranks, cantis, mtn rear derailleur, 11-30
    cassette and MA2 36h rims). I lengthened the stem a bit and
    have a comfortable fit. I bought it in 98 for about 1/3 the
    price of a Cannondale tourer and it has been fine for me.

    I suspect it would be much less cost-effective to retrofit a
    hybrid unless you have a supply of used parts and the spare
    time to find out what works.

  11. On Sun, 21 Mar 2004 01:12:46 -0500 (EST), [email hidden]

    (Chris Zacho 'The Wheelman') said:

    From: [email hidden] (Jonathan Kaplan)

    Quoted message said:

    Check out the new surly long haul trucker. It is a real
    touring bike and the frame/fork is going to sell for $400
    range. The 54cm and smaller frames are spec'd with 26"
    wheel sizes for clearance. You could mount your mountain
    bike components. It's going to have front and rear rack
    mounts, all the brazeons including a spoke holder. It's
    supposed to be available in April or May. It's only
    drawback is the ugly pea soup green color.

    Quoted message said:

    surlybikes.comsurlybikes.com

    thanks I need to call them and find out why they say spec a
    38 triple chainring. It sounds like I could not use a 20 or
    22 chain ring

    Quoted message said:


    "Ugly pea soup green color"? You mean Celeste? lol

    - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

    "May you have the wind at your back. And a really low gear
    for the hills!"

    Chris Zacho ~ "Your Friendly Neighborhood Wheelman"

    Chris'Z Corner geocities.comczcorner

  12. On Sun, 21 Mar 2004 01:07:44 -0500 (EST), [email hidden]

    (Chris Zacho 'The Wheelman') said:

    Have you tried looking into used machines? I'll bet you can
    find some good deals there.

    everyday

  13. daveornee said:
    censored Smallboy said:

    Can a good hybrid be made into an adequate good touring
    bike? By adding dropped bars and going to bar end
    friction shifters? It seems that it would be cheaper
    for me to get a hybrid because they have a 26" tires,
    canti breaks, and low gears. These three things add a
    lot of cost to a bike. I would want to be able to add
    front and rear bags and I am not sure if racks would
    fit. The touring bike I like would cost 4k and is more
    than I can afford.

    $799 will get you either the 26" wheeled REI Safari:
    tinyurl.comvcqi or the 700C wheeled Randonee with
    drop bars: tinyurl.com2fus3

    Converting a hybrid can work, but mounting racks is usually
    a challange. There are also many other toruing bicycles
    worth considering that are far less that $4K. Adventure
    Cycling's magazine just published a page full of choices,
    including some recumbents, and "folding" bicycles suitable
    for touring. They also have an article in the most recent
    edition about touring with a BOB trailer.

    thanks I will look for this magazine

  14. [censored] Smallboy <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

    Quoted message said:

    Can a good hybrid be made into an adequate good touring
    bike? By adding dropped bars and going to bar end friction
    shifters? It seems that it would be cheaper for me to get
    a hybrid because they have a 26" tires, canti breaks, and
    low gears. These three things add a lot of cost to a bike.

    I would want to be able to add front and rear bags and I
    am not sure if racks would fit.

    "Hybrid" implies 700c wheels. I tour on a bike that
    started life as a Specialized Crossroads hybrid (42/32/22
    front, gripshifts, seven speed rear, straight bars,
    cantis, etc.) It now has drops and bar ends. I've yet to
    use front panniers, but have an old-style handlbar bag and
    BikeBucket panniers.

    I typically tour about a week a year, and cover 6-800
    km. Works for
    me.

  15. "[censored] Smallboy" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    "]news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    Can a good hybrid be made into an adequate good touring
    bike? By adding dropped bars and going to bar end friction
    shifters? It seems that it would be cheaper for me to get
    a hybrid because they have a 26" tires, canti breaks, and
    low gears. These three things add a lot of cost to a bike.

    I would want to be able to add front and rear bags and I
    am not sure if racks would fit.

    The touring bike I like would cost 4k and is more than I
    can afford.

    Not advisable. I've never seen a steel hybrid for sale
    anywhere. And a hybrid won't be built for touring. It won't
    stand up to the loads.

    As Co-Motion states: "a touring bike also carries a heavy
    load, puts extreme strain on wheels..." A touring bicycle
    will usually have 40 or 48 spoke dishless wheels.

    What touring bicycle costs $4K? You can get an excellent
    touring bicycle for around $2K.

    Check out the Koga-Miyata Randonneur:
    kogausa.comRandonneurspecs.htm Still $2100, but
    touring bikes are few and far between these days. This
    looks like the best touring bicycle on the market. Wow, a
    lugged frame in this day and age. Even Bruce Gordon doesn't
    do lugs anymore.

    I like this model better than some of the more expensive
    touring bicycles such as the Co-Motion Americano (co-co-
    motion.com/Amerc.html), because on a long tour you often
    want a different riding position than the dropped bars
    provide, and the Americano has a threadless headset which
    limits your range of height adjustability, unless you start
    adding extenders. Also, the Americano is $500 more.

    A Bruce Gordon BLT is about $1850 with racks, see
    bgcycles.comblt.html, but I think that the Koga-
    Miyata is worth the extra $400, it's complete with
    everything including fenders, Nexus dynamo hub and Lumotec
    lights, pump, water-bottle cages, water bottles, lock (not a
    good one), kickstand, saddlebag, etc.

    A cheaper way to go would be with the Fuji Touring bicycle.
    Around $600 for a 2003 model, see
    <http://www.sheldonbrown.com/harris/closeouts.html>, and
    spending a few hundred dollars equipping it with racks, etc.

    If you're committed to that $4K tourer in the future, then
    for the present consider a used touring bike; look for a mid
    1980's vintage Miyata 1000 or Specialized Expedition (not
    the new hybrid Expedition, the old classic touring model).
    As Sheldon Brown wrote: "The mid-80s Miyata 1000 was
    possibly the finest off-the-shelf touring bike available at
    the time." You can spend money to upgrade these, but the
    simplicity of downtube mounted friction shifters has its
    appeal when touring.

    For a touring bike you want: -Steel frame, preferably a
    lugged frame, rather than a tig-welded frame. -40 or 48
    spoke dishless wheels -Quill headset for adjustability -Braze-
    ons for front and rear racks and for three water bottle
    holders. -Clearance for fenders -Very low gears

  16. "Steven M. Scharf" <[email hidden]> wrote
    in message >

    Quoted message said:

    Not advisable. I've never seen a steel hybrid for sale
    anywhere. And a hybrid won't be built for touring. It
    won't stand up to the loads.

    As Co-Motion states: "a touring bike also carries a heavy
    load, puts extreme strain on wheels..." A touring bicycle
    will usually have 40 or 48 spoke dishless wheels.

    A hybrid bike won't stand up to the loads of touring? The
    hybrid bikes I've seen are usually pretty solid bikes. More
    than strong enough for loaded touring.

    A touring bike will usually have 40 or 48 spoke dishless
    wheels? When did this become the norm? Do you work for Co-
    Motion? Co-Motion is the only one I've ever heard of
    promoting this wheel concept. Many people have successfully
    toured many miles without worrying about trying to fit a
    tandem wheel into a normal bike. I would not buy an
    Americano bike because of the oddball rear wheel. I've
    toured enough to know you want standard parts on your bike.
    You do not want rear wheels only a tandem bike shop would
    have. Accients can and do happen. You want to go into any
    bike shop in Italy or the Czech Republic and buy a wheel and
    put it in your bike and be off.

    Quoted message said:


    For a touring bike you want: -Steel frame, preferably a
    lugged frame, rather than a tig-welded frame.

    Why steel? Why lugged over TIG? Steel is easier to repair in
    remote parts of the world but other than that aluminum will
    work just as nicely for a loaded touring bike. This lugged
    steel frame preference sounds more emotional than factual.

    Quoted message said:

    -40 or 48 spoke dishless wheels

    No. Go with standard 36 spoke three cross wheels front and
    rear. You are far more likely to find spokes, rims, hubs for
    these standard 130 or 135 wheels. You want standad parts on
    a touring bike so any bike shop will have parts to get you
    on the road again. You do not want exotic parts on a loaded
    touring bike. Buitl with adequate skill, these standard 36
    spoke wheels will work perfectly.

    Quoted message said:

    -Quill headset for adjustability

    I presume you meant quill stem and threaded fork steerer.
    Adjustability? I toured an entire summer in Europe and I
    never adjusted the quill stem on my bike. I doubt many
    loaded tourers ever adjut their quill stems. They get it
    right before starting the tour and leave it that way. I've
    heard racers will adjust their stem lower throughout the
    season as they become more fit, but I doubt tourers do such
    nonsense. Threaded forks and quill stems have the advantage
    of keeping the headset adjusted correctly as you try to get
    the bars straight. But neither is superior or inferior on a
    touring bike.

    Quoted message said:

    -Braze-ons for front and rear racks and for three water
    bottle holders.

    And preferably double eyelets on the rear dropouts and fork
    ends. The Blackburn clamp on low rider can work fine if the
    fork does not have the through hole for the non-clamp low
    rider rack.

    Quoted message said:

    -Clearance for fenders -Very low gears

    For loaded touring in the Alps or Dolomites I recommend a 22
    inner ring paired with a 32 or 34 rear cog. The Rockies are
    not as steep and you may be able to get by with a slightly
    taller low gear, but I would not recommend it. A 22x34 will
    get a nice 17.5 gear inches on a 700C/27" bike.

    As for finding a 26" wheeled touring bike, there aren't too
    many. Bruce Gordon has his BLT in 26" now. Saint Johns
    Street Cycles in England has their Thorn touring bikes in
    26" wheel. Some of the Rivendell bikes come with 26" wheels.
    And of course you can convert a mountain bike to a tourign
    bike by replacing the fork, shifters and/or brake levers,
    handlebars and tires. I figured it up as about $300 to
    convert my Raleigh mountain bike to a loaded touring bike.

  17. "Russell Seaton" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    "]news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    A hybrid bike won't stand up to the loads of touring? The
    hybrid bikes I've seen are usually pretty solid bikes.
    More than strong enough for loaded touring.

    They look solid, but they won't stand up to loaded touring.
    A classic chromolloy frame mountain bike would be a better
    starting point for a conversion to a touring bike.

    Quoted message said:

    A touring bike will usually have 40 or 48 spoke dishless
    wheels? When did this become the norm?

    In the 1980's.

    See: sheldonbrown.comjapan.html. The main
    competitor to this was the Specialized Expedition, also with
    40 spoke wheels (I have the 1984 Specialized Expedition).

    Quoted message said:

    Do you work for Co-Motion?

    No

    Quoted message said:

    Co-Motion is the only one I've ever heard of promoting
    this wheel concept.

    Other manufacturers of touring bicycles also use 40
    spoke wheels.

    According to Jobst Brandt, renowned wheel builder and author
    of The Bicycle Wheel, "The greater the dish or asymmetry,
    the weaker the wheel and the sooner the spokes will break
    from fatigue."

    One other solution to this problem, that can be
    achieved without wider spacing, is the use of the off-center-
    rims and hubs.

    Quoted message said:

    Many people have successfully toured many miles without
    worrying about trying to fit a tandem wheel into a normal
    bike. I would not buy an Americano bike because of the
    oddball rear wheel. I've toured enough to know you want
    standard parts on your bike. You do not want rear wheels
    only a tandem bike shop would have. Accients can and do
    happen. You want to go into any bike shop in Italy or the
    Czech Republic and buy a wheel and put it in your bike
    and be off.

    The point is that you don't want to have to rely on there
    being a bike shop out in the middle of nowhere. I cycled
    through Russia, where you had send to Finland for
    replacement parts. One person had their bike "professionally
    boxed" for the trip, and the bike shop left out the QR
    skewers. By a sheer stroke of luck, I had brought a load of
    odds and ends that I had laying around the garage, including
    a pair of skewers. They were too long, but we found some
    rusty nuts on a fence to use as spacers (no Home Depot to
    run to). If someone had broken a wheel, there would have
    been no shop to buy a replacement at, no matter the spacing
    or number of spokes. And in fact someone did have a rim
    problem because they failed to follow the advice I sent out
    prior to the tour to equip their bicycle with touring
    wheels, not racing wheels. The Russian mechanic (whose main
    tool was a hammer) managed to get the wheel somewhat
    straight, but it kept popping spokes.

    Quoted message said:

    Why steel? Why lugged over TIG?

    Much less likely to fail. When touring, you want very
    reliable equipment. You can't count on phoning someone to
    bail you out.

    Quoted message said:

    Steel is easier to repair in remote parts of the world but
    other than that aluminum will work just as nicely for a
    loaded touring bike. This lugged steel frame preference
    sounds more emotional than factual.

    It isn't emotional. It's a fact that steel frames are
    stronger than aluminum frames. Lugged frames are easier to
    repair, both in remote and non-remote parts of the world.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    -40 or 48 spoke dishless wheels

    No. Go with standard 36 spoke three cross wheels front
    and rear.

    These are too prone to spoke breakage or complete
    failure. 48 spoke wheels may be over-doing it, but 40
    spoke at a minimum, for 700c wheels. For 26" wheels 36
    spoke might be okay.

    Quoted message said:

    You are far more likely to find spokes, rims, hubs for
    these standard 130 or 135 wheels.

    Bring spokes with you. Though in the past 20 years I have
    never broken a spoke on my touring bicycle, but have broken
    spokes on 36 spoke rear wheels. You can always improvise
    something with a replacement wheel with a narrower hub, if
    necessary.

    Quoted message said:

    You want standad parts on a touring bike so any bike shop
    will have parts to get you on the road again. You do not
    want exotic parts on a loaded touring bike. Buitl with
    adequate skill, these standard 36 spoke wheels will work
    perfectly.

    They work fine until they start popping spokes. Pop a few
    too many spokes in rapid succession and the wheel collapses.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    -Quill headset for adjustability

    I presume you meant quill stem and threaded fork
    steerer. Adjustability? I toured an entire summer in
    Europe and I never

    <snip>

    Quoted message said:

    straight. But neither is superior or inferior on a
    touring bike.

    Many riders prefer a less crouched over position on the
    touring bike. If you look at the picture of the Comotion
    Americano, the bars are too low for a comfortable riding
    position. Sure you can buy those funky extenders to solve
    the problem, but it's inelegant and costly.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    -Braze-ons for front and rear racks and for three water
    bottle holders.

    And preferably double eyelets on the rear dropouts and
    fork ends. The Blackburn clamp on low rider can work fine
    if the fork does not have the through hole for the non-
    clamp low rider rack.

    The clamp-on Blackburn Low-Rider is a pain in the butt with
    the hoop over the wheel. It's usable, but unnecessary on a
    touring bicycle that supports the custom low-rider racks.

    Quoted message said:

    As for finding a 26" wheeled touring bike, there aren't
    too many. Bruce Gordon has his BLT in 26" now. Saint Johns
    Street Cycles in England has their Thorn touring bikes in
    26" wheel. Some of the Rivendell bikes come with 26"
    wheels. And of course you can convert a mountain bike to a
    tourign bike by replacing the fork, shifters and/or brake
    levers, handlebars and tires. I figured it up as about
    $300 to convert my Raleigh mountain bike to a loaded
    touring bike.

    Yes, a good quality mountain bike can be converted to a
    touring bike. But a hybrid has a frame and wheels that are
    not well-suited to loaded touring.

    If I wanted to do long distance touring on a budget then I'd
    buy a used Miyata 1000 or Specialized Expedition for $200 or
    so. These are strong and simple machines. If I had $2K to
    spend I'd get the Koga-Miyata Randonneur.

    As to the original subject, odds are that a hybrid could be
    used for touring just fine. But you're taking a chance by
    using it for purposes for which it was not designed.

    One other thing; I've installed rear racks on three hybrids
    in the past couple of years. In each case it required some
    custom aluminum flat fabrication because the geometry of the
    hybrids did not lend themselves to racks. I had to run a
    center support down from the rack to the hole in the frame
    that would be used for fenders. Thank goodness the
    manufacturers use common frame around the world, or that
    hole wouldn't be there on bikes sold in the U.S.. While this
    set-up is fine for a small rack-top bag, I wouldn't hang 50
    pounds of panniers on the rack.

  18. Steven M. Scharf said:

    "Russell Seaton" <[email hidden]> wrote in
    message

    Quoted message said:

    A touring bike will usually have 40 or 48 spoke dishless
    wheels? When did this become the norm?


    In the 1980's.

    These 48 spoke rims are like your $400 dynamo systems,
    aren't they?

    In Britain we are fortunate to have several companies who
    still build traditional touring bicycles. A new Dawes
    Galaxy? 36 spoke wheels. Chas Roberts? 36 spoke wheels.
    Orbit's Romany (their heavy-duty model)? 36. Longstaff? I'll
    give you three guesses.

    Needless to say people have used all these manufacturers'
    bicycles to ride in remote parts of the world.

    [Admittedly, Thorn have 48 as an option on their heavy-duty
    26" tourers.]

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    happen. You want to go into any bike shop in Italy or the
    Czech Republic and buy a wheel and put it in your bike
    and be off.


    The point is that you don't want to have to rely on there
    being a bike shop out in the middle of nowhere.

    You don't want to, but sometimes you must. Without a sag
    wagon, you're not going to be carrying spare rims.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Why steel? Why lugged over TIG?


    Much less likely to fail.

    Why are lugged frames less likely to fail?

    Quoted message said:

    It isn't emotional. It's a fact that steel frames are
    stronger than aluminum frames.

    Actually, it depends on the design of the frame in question.

    Quoted message said:

    Lugged frames are easier to repair, both in remote and non-
    remote parts of the world.

    Sure they are - if you find a blacksmith in India, he's
    going to be set up to do silver brazing, and not just weld
    some big lumps of metal on. No, wait...
    --
    David Damerell <[email hidden]>
    Distortion Field!

  19. "David Damerell" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    "]news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:
    Steven M. Scharf said:

    "Russell Seaton" <[email hidden]> wrote in
    message

    Quoted message said:

    A touring bike will usually have 40 or 48 spoke dishless
    wheels? When did this become the norm?


    In the 1980's.

    These 48 spoke rims are like your $400 dynamo systems,
    aren't they?

    In Britain we are fortunate to have several companies who
    still build traditional touring bicycles. A new Dawes
    Galaxy? 36 spoke wheels. Chas Roberts? 36 spoke wheels.
    Orbit's Romany (their heavy-duty model)? 36. Longstaff?
    I'll give you three guesses.

    Needless to say people have used all these manufacturers'
    bicycles to ride in remote parts of the world.

    [Admittedly, Thorn have 48 as an option on their heavy-
    duty 26" tourers.]

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    happen. You want to go into any bike shop in Italy or
    the Czech Republic and buy a wheel and put it in your
    bike and be off.


    The point is that you don't want to have to rely on there
    being a bike


    shop

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    out in the middle of nowhere.

    You don't want to, but sometimes you must. Without a sag
    wagon, you're not going to be carrying spare rims.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Why steel? Why lugged over TIG?


    Much less likely to fail.

    Why are lugged frames less likely to fail?

    Quoted message said:

    It isn't emotional. It's a fact that steel frames are
    stronger than


    aluminum

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    frames.

    Actually, it depends on the design of the frame in
    question.

    Quoted message said:

    Lugged frames are easier to repair, both in remote and
    non-remote parts of the world.

    Sure they are - if you find a blacksmith in India, he's
    going to be set up to do silver brazing, and not just weld
    some big lumps of metal on. No, wait...
    --
    David Damerell <[email hidden]>
    Distortion Field!

    All I can say is MTB, MTB, MTB There are very few places
    that you can't find a shop selling crappy MTB's and the
    accompanying crappy parts - though in Nth Burma a friend did
    have to buy a whole bike (for all of US$79) to get a new
    rim. (The alternative was to wait for a week for a rim to
    come up from Yangon - a no brainer.)

    Hugh Fenton

  20. "Hugh Fenton" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

    Quoted message said:

    All I can say is MTB, MTB, MTB There are very few places
    that you can't find a shop selling crappy MTB's and the
    accompanying crappy parts - though in Nth Burma a friend
    did have to buy a whole bike (for all of US$79) to get a
    new rim. (The alternative was to wait for a week for a rim
    to come up from Yangon - a no brainer.)

    This is a good point, if touring in third world countries,
    not only for the availability of cheap whole bikes from
    China, but for the extra ruggedness of the mountain bike.
    Though again, you'll want a quality steel mountain bike to
    start with.

    Start with the best quality equipment that's suited for the
    job, so the chances of having to obtain replacement parts is
    smaller to begin with. Don't intentionally go low-end to
    start, just because replacement is easier.

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