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Convert hybrid to road bike.

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Road Cycling
Published
30 May 2004
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2 June 2004
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Tinmanx
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  1. Hi,

    I was wondering, can I convert my Trek hybrid bike into a
    road bike just by changing the handlebar to a drop-down
    handlebar?

    --Francis

  2. In article <[email hidden]>,

    TinManX said:

    Hi,

    I was wondering, can I convert my Trek hybrid bike into a
    road bike just by changing the handlebar to a drop-down
    handlebar?

    You will need stem, handlebars, brake levers, shifters and
    handlebar tape. Get a cable set if not included with the
    new parts. If the hybrid bike uses linear-pull brakes then
    you will probably also need a doodad which corrects the
    cable pull so the brakes work properly, unless you buy
    road bike brake levers designed for use with v-brakes or
    replace the v-brakes with cantilevers. This is a pretty
    expensive change.

  3. TinManX said:

    Hi,

    I was wondering, can I convert my Trek hybrid bike into a
    road bike just by changing the handlebar to a drop-down
    handlebar?

    --Francis

    What kind of Trek hybrid do you have? If it's not one of
    the FX versions, i.e. without the front suspension forks,
    I'd advise getting a Trek 1200 road bike and just pass the
    hybrid down, or use it as your backup bike. Everyone needs
    a backup bike, in case the reg. bike is in the shop, etc.,
    and converting a 'heavy' hybrid to a road bike will work
    cross purposes.

    -Badger

  4. In said:

    What kind of Trek hybrid do you have? If it's not one of
    the FX versions,
    i.e. without the front suspension forks, I'd advise
    getting a Trek 1200 road bike and just pass the
    hybrid down, or use it as your backup bike.

    On the other hand, somebody on a budget who has a hybrid but
    who wants a "road bike" may find handlebar conversion an
    appealing option. Not everybody can just go out and buy a
    $800 second bike.

    Quoted message said:

    Everyone needs a backup bike, in case the reg. bike is in
    the shop, etc., and converting a 'heavy' hybrid to a road
    bike will work cross purposes.

    It depends on what the original poster meant by "road bike."
    I'm speaking up because I actually did this myself with a
    hybrid when I finally got fed up with the hybrid's bars.
    $190 bought drop bars, quill stem, brake levers, bar-ends
    and shop time and now the thing is more or less a touring
    bike, and something like that may (or may not) be enough for
    the OP's needs.

    --
    Herbie J. Famous Curator

  5. Herbie Jurvanen said:

    In <[email hidden]>,

    Badger said:

    What kind of Trek hybrid do you have? If it's not one of
    the FX versions,
    i.e. without the front suspension forks, I'd advise
    getting a Trek 1200 road bike and just pass the
    hybrid down, or use it as your backup bike.

    On the other hand, somebody on a budget who has a hybrid
    but who wants a "road bike" may find handlebar conversion
    an appealing option. Not everybody can just go out and buy
    a $800 second bike.

    Uh, well, 'listen' to my reply. Suspension forked hybrid -
    fergeddaboutit,
    b/c you're going for racing characteristics, or speed and
    "road bike" with the drops. Road bikes don't have no
    stinkin' suspension forks.

    Get an "actual road bike" entry level if you must (Fuji?
    Trek 1200?)

    That way you can 'correct' the mistake (IMO) of getting
    front fork suspension (which only adds weight to a bike).

    However, if a non-suspension version (already reasonably
    light), then convert away as you have indicated, for only
    $200 bucks.

    I'm thinking of exploring putting aero-bars on my hybrid
    (7500FX Trek). That might cost $100 for the additional
    cabling and labor plus the bar.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Everyone needs a backup bike, in case the reg. bike is in
    the shop, etc., and converting a 'heavy' hybrid to a road
    bike will work cross purposes.

    It depends on what the original poster meant by "road
    bike." I'm speaking up because I actually did this myself
    with a hybrid when I finally got fed up with the hybrid's
    bars. $190 bought drop bars, quill stem, brake levers, bar-
    ends and shop time and now the thing is more or less a
    touring bike, and something like that may (or may not) be
    enough for the OP's needs.

    But, surely you already have a back up bike?

    Thx for the pricing info.

    -Badger

  6. On Sun, 30 May 2004 02:58:47 GMT, [email hidden]

    (Paul Southworth) said:
    TinManX said:

    I was wondering, can I convert my Trek hybrid bike into a
    road bike just by changing the handlebar to a drop-down
    handlebar?

    You will need stem, handlebars, brake levers, shifters and
    handlebar tape. Get a cable set if not included with the
    new parts. If the

    It would, actually, be possible to use the flat-bar controls
    on a drop bar, but they would be out of reach in most
    positions. Getting proper brake levers (and, as you said,
    adapter if necessary) makes it reasonable. Reaching up to
    the tops for the flat-bar shifters would be no worse than
    reaching down to the ends for barcons.

    Why the stem? Most two-bolt stems are happy with flat or
    drop bars (whose diameter differs by barely more than half a
    millimeter).
    --
    Rick Onanian

  7. On Mon, 31 May 2004 10:29:10 -0400, Badger_South <[email hidden]>

    Quoted message said:

    I'm thinking of exploring putting aero-bars on my hybrid
    (7500FX Trek). That might cost $100 for the additional
    cabling and labor plus the bar.

    Cabling? Most people adding aerobars don't put any
    controls on them.
    --
    Rick Onanian

  8. Rick Onanian said:
    Badger_South said:

    I'm thinking of exploring putting aero-bars on my hybrid
    (7500FX Trek). That might cost $100 for the additional
    cabling and labor plus the bar.

    Cabling? Most people adding aerobars don't put any
    controls on them.

    OK, what about brakes? Looks like the ones I see on the
    Triathlons on OLN (Outdoor Life Network) are fiddling
    with something out at the ends; figured it was brakes,
    or shifters.

    Isn't it difficult to suddenly jump back from the 'aero
    position', both arms in the center and elbows resting on the
    pads to grab a brake lever if you have a surprise car pull
    out or something?

    -B

  9. In said:
    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    What kind of Trek hybrid do you have? If it's not one of
    the FX versions,
    i.e. without the front suspension forks, I'd advise
    getting a Trek 1200 road bike and just pass the
    hybrid down, or use it as your backup bike.

    On the other hand, somebody on a budget who has a hybrid
    but who wants a "road bike" may find handlebar conversion
    an appealing option. Not everybody can just go out and buy
    a $800 second bike.

    Uh, well, 'listen' to my reply. Suspension forked hybrid -
    fergeddaboutit,
    b/c you're going for racing characteristics, or speed and
    "road bike" with the drops.

    Sorry, I mis-parsed your reply because I thought your i.e.
    clause expanded upon "not one of the FX versions" rather
    than simply "the FX versions."

    Quoted message said:

    Road bikes don't have no stinkin' suspension forks.

    I agree, even if certain companies don't: cannondale.commodel
    4RS8.html

    --
    Herbie J. Famous Curator

  10. In article <[email hidden]>,
    [email hidden] says...

    Quoted message said:
    Rick Onanian said:
    Badger_South said:

    I'm thinking of exploring putting aero-bars on my hybrid
    (7500FX Trek). That might cost $100 for the additional
    cabling and labor plus the bar.

    Cabling? Most people adding aerobars don't put any
    controls on them.

    OK, what about brakes? Looks like the ones I see on the
    Triathlons on OLN (Outdoor Life Network) are fiddling with
    something out at the ends; figured it was brakes, or
    shifters.

    If you're putting pure aero bars, yes there are controls;
    usually shifters on the ends of the projecting arms, and
    brakes on the wider spaced handles which are used for turns.
    But "clip-ons" (which are what you add to standard
    handlebars) usually don't have controls on them. Sometimes
    shifters, but even that's not that common.

    Quoted message said:

    Isn't it difficult to suddenly jump back from the 'aero
    position', both arms in the center and elbows resting on
    the pads to grab a brake lever if you have a surprise car
    pull out or something?

    You just don't use them when you might need them in that
    situation; save them for long runs with little to no cross-
    traffic. When you're down on the bars, you have little
    control anyway, so you would need to switch positions just
    to keep the bike in the correct position in the lane as you
    slow down.

    --
    Dave Kerber Fight spam: remove the ns_ from the return
    address before replying!

    REAL programmers write self-modifying code.

  11. On Mon, 31 May 2004 12:49:05 -0400, Badger_South <[email hidden]>

    Quoted message said:
    Rick Onanian said:

    Cabling? Most people adding aerobars don't put any
    controls on them.

    OK, what about brakes? Looks like the ones I see on the
    Triathlons on OLN (Outdoor Life Network) are fiddling with
    something out at the ends; figured it was brakes, or
    shifters.

    Shifters. That's for triathlons and TTs, though, not general
    purpose riding.

    Quoted message said:

    Isn't it difficult to suddenly jump back from the 'aero
    position', both arms in the center and elbows resting on
    the pads to grab a brake lever if you have a surprise car
    pull out or something?

    Not that hard, although I wouldn't ride without my hands on
    the brakes in a paceline. Steering is so touchy on the
    aerobars that brakes are the least of your problems if you
    have a surprise car.

    That said, if you think you can mantain control while
    braking from the aerobars, at least get in-line levers
    that don't make you remove your regular levers. You'll
    want the regular levers when you're off the aerobars much
    more than you'll want the auxilliary levers when you're on
    the aerobars.
    --
    Rick Onanian

  12. I converted an unsuspended hybrid about 9 or 10 years ago. I
    found used brake levers, drop bars, and a road stem, so that
    didn't cost too much, and I bought SunTour accushifters, no
    longer available, which mount on the bars near the brake
    levers. I've still got it, and it is a reliable commuting
    bike that I've even used a little for loaded touring. It's
    kind of heavy, though, and I have lighter road bikes if I
    just want to go out and have fun.

    Herbie Jurvanen <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]-
    wugs.net>... (snip)

    Quoted message said:

    I actually did this myself with a hybrid when I finally got
    fed up with the hybrid's bars. $190 bought drop bars, quill
    stem, brake levers, bar-ends and shop time and now the
    thing is more or less a touring bike, and something like
    that may (or may not) be enough for the OP's needs.

  13. David Kerber ns_dkerber@ns_ids.net said:
    Quoted message said:

    OK, what about brakes? Looks like the ones I see on the
    Triathlons on OLN (Outdoor Life Network) are fiddling
    with something out at the ends; figured it was brakes, or
    shifters.

    If you're putting pure aero bars, yes there are controls;
    usually shifters on the ends of the projecting arms, and
    brakes on the wider spaced handles which are used for
    turns. But "clip-ons" (which are what you add to standard
    handlebars) usually don't have controls on them. Sometimes
    shifters, but even that's not that common.

    OK, Thanks DK. Makes perfect sense, and looking at the bars
    at Bike Nashbar, I'm now going 'doh'. ;-p

    Have you ever tried those kinds of bars? Experiences?
    Recommends (adjustable? Flip up elbow pads?)

    -B

  14. Rick Onanian said:

    Not that hard, although I wouldn't ride without my hands on
    the brakes in a paceline. Steering is so touchy on the
    aerobars that brakes are the least of your problems if you
    have a surprise car.

    That said, if you think you can mantain control while
    braking from the aerobars, at least get in-line levers that
    don't make you remove your regular levers. You'll want the
    regular levers when you're off the aerobars much more than
    you'll want the auxilliary levers when you're on the
    aerobars.

    This is what I was thinking, but I'm still getting the
    feel of the new bike, so it may be prudent to wait for a
    few months.

    At this point, riding over an hour, at 16-17mph, (with some
    speedplay up to 24mph ) everything on the bike seems
    perfectly smooth, no pains in arms, neck. Butt isn't sore
    anymore; in fact within moments of dismounting I feel
    perfectly normal, not even tired - despite riding harder by
    a significant degree this week than last (on old bike).

    -B

  15. On Mon, 31 May 2004 20:15:38 -0400, Badger_South <[email hidden]>

    Quoted message said:

    Have you ever tried those kinds of bars? Experiences?
    Recommends (adjustable? Flip up elbow pads?)

    I have Syntace C2 clip-ons on my road bike:
    nashbar.comprofile.cfm

    and Profile clip-ons on my TT bike similar to their Split
    Second nashbar.comprofile.cfm except
    they don't flip up.

    I've only used the Syntace much; the Profile hasn't seen
    much use yet. It (the Profile) doesn't seem like a comfort
    bar, though, definitely an aggressive racing bar. The pads
    curl up to contain your arms within a narrow space, to
    keep you aero.

    Anyway, the Syntace C2 gets a big thumbs up from me. I
    thought I was going to hate the fact that the pads don't
    flip up. Turns out, the pads are anatomically shaped to be
    held like handlebars, and they sit pretty high above the bar
    too; and, you can get a 1" lifter that puts the whole thing
    higher (if you want it higher), which then really gives you
    access to your bar tops. The end result is about a million
    hand positions.

    Hand positions include holding the pads like the tops of the
    handlebar, holding the pads similar but with the palms of
    the hands facing towards eachother instead of towards your
    torso, wrists on the pads and hands on the bar's forward or
    diagonal projection, forearms on the pads and hands holding
    the up-legs in various ways, or forearms/elbows on the pads
    and hands wrapped over top of up-legs. Neato.

    Adjustability is good on the Syntace. You can move the pads
    laterally, as well as spacing the bars closer or farther
    from eachother, giving you both total width and arm angle
    adjustment.

    I bought them because they're lightweight and have good
    reviews. I had no idea the pads were so nicely shaped for
    gripping a variety of ways, or that the pads could be
    adjusted laterally.

    The instructions make reference to charts on the retail box.
    The charts are not necessary; the same information is
    available with some googling. There is also, IIRC, some sort
    of cutout for positioning. I bought mine from Cambria Bike,
    and they didn't come in the retail box, but it didn't end up
    being a problem.
    --
    Rick Onanian

  16. In article <[email hidden]>,
    [email hidden] says...

    Quoted message said:

    On Mon, 31 May 2004 13:27:29 -0400, David Kerber

    ns_dkerber@ns_ids.net said:
    Quoted message said:

    OK, what about brakes? Looks like the ones I see on the
    Triathlons on OLN (Outdoor Life Network) are fiddling
    with something out at the ends; figured it was brakes,
    or shifters.

    If you're putting pure aero bars, yes there are controls;
    usually shifters on the ends of the projecting arms, and
    brakes on the wider spaced handles which are used for
    turns. But "clip-ons" (which are what you add to standard
    handlebars) usually don't have controls on them.
    Sometimes shifters, but even that's not that common.

    OK, Thanks DK. Makes perfect sense, and looking at the
    bars at Bike Nashbar, I'm now going 'doh'. ;-p

    Have you ever tried those kinds of bars? Experiences?
    Recommends (adjustable? Flip up elbow pads?)

    Yep, I've got a set of Profile clip-ons with the flip-up spring-
    loaded elbow pads, and really like them. They're really nice
    with you want to get the weight completely off your hands
    while staying aero, or just want yet another position to
    keep things interesting. They do add some weight, so if
    you're on a very hilly ride you might want to pull them off.

    --
    Remove the ns_ from if replying by e-mail (but keep posts in
    the newsgroups if possible).

  17. Rick Onanian said:

    Anyway, the Syntace C2 gets a big thumbs up from me. I
    thought I was going to hate the fact that the pads don't
    flip up. Turns out, the pads are anatomically shaped to be
    held like handlebars, and they sit pretty high above the
    bar too; and, you can get a 1" lifter that puts the whole
    thing higher (if you want it higher), which then really
    gives you access to your bar tops. The end result is about
    a million hand positions.

    Thx - 10e6! ;-)

    I'm heading out to ride in Seashore State Park, here in Va
    beach. Low 70s, nice day for it, 'cept too high humidity.

    -Badger

  18. Maybe a silly question of the unimformed, but here
    goes anyway.

    OP has hybrid and wants to turn it into a different style of
    bicycle. If OP does not want the change permanently is it
    possible to double up on the cabling somehow?

    Perhaps move the gearing selectors to a position where
    handlebar shape doesn't matter then running two sets of
    brake cables to the same brake(s), or running a long enough
    set of brake cables they could perform double duty dependant
    on the handlebar?

    It seemed possible as I daydreamed away at work today,
    though I do not really know if it is feasable. Just a
    thought....

  19. Ben A Gozar said:

    Maybe a silly question of the unimformed, but here
    goes anyway.

    OP has hybrid and wants to turn it into a different style
    of bicycle. If OP does not want the change permanently is
    it possible to double up on the cabling somehow?

    There are quick-release cable fittings. I've considered this
    for using the same bike for different purposes; have a
    complete handlebar setup, attached to a threadless stem, and
    just use the quick-couplers and easy stem to change the
    whole front end in two minutes time.

    Quoted message said:

    Perhaps move the gearing selectors to a position where
    handlebar shape doesn't matter then running two sets of
    brake cables to the same brake(s), or running a long enough
    set of brake cables they could perform double duty
    dependant on the handlebar?

    Downtube shifters, or stem-mounted. Add a coaster brake and
    change handlebars every five minutes as you please.

    Quoted message said:

    It seemed possible as I daydreamed away at work today,
    though I do not really know if it is feasable. Just a
    thought....

    Could work the way you describe it.
    --
    Rick Onanian

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