convert derailer cable routing

Kyle.B.H said:

I'm debating converting an old frame of mine from "top of
chainstay" derailer routing to "under the bottom bracket,
bottom of chainstay" routing, primarily because I'm having
issues with the angle in which the front derailer cable
approaches my front derailer. Seems to me I need to do the
following:

Drill and tap an appropriatly sized (?) hole in the BB
shell to accept a cable guide. Any gotcha's?

I bet that you could get away with just double-stick taping
a bottom guide. Auto body places have some pretty amazing
tapes these days, and cable tension will keep it in place
with a little start from tape.

Drilling and tapping the bb should be straightforward.
Remove the bottom bracket first, of course. I've used duct
tape in other situations to build a pocket to catch the
metal filings.

Quoted message said:

Find a chainstay mounted cable stop - do these exist?

Thanks,

Kyle

I don't know if they are available new, but they were
standard decades ago. Find an older bike shop that deals in
classic frames and they will be able to get you one.

Kyle.B.H said:

I'm debating converting an old frame of mine from "top of
chainstay" derailer routing to "under the bottom bracket,
bottom of chainstay" routing, primarily because I'm having
issues with the angle in which the front derailer cable
approaches my front derailer. Seems to me I need to do the
following:

Drill and tap an appropriatly sized (?) hole in the BB
shell to accept a cable guide. Any gotcha's?

Find a chainstay mounted cable stop - do these exist?

Thanks,

Kyle

You could simply glue the guide on, or drill and rivet it on
with a pop rivet. The latter what how one of mine was
attached but when fitting a cartridge BB whose diameter is
much later than the original three piece BB I had to file
away the rivet on the inside of the BB shell to allow the BB
to be fed through properly. Much to my surprise the guide
did not fall off and remains in place. Another alternaive
would be brazed on guide(s)

Quoted message said:

I'm debating converting an old frame of mine from "top of
chainstay" derailer routing to "under the bottom bracket,
bottom of chainstay" routing, primarily because I'm having
issues with the angle in which the front derailer cable
approaches my front derailer.

What's the issue? It's presumably been working for a while.
If you want to change it you can just run the cables under
the BB shell, no guide really needed. And clamp on CS stops
used to be quite common but you may have to find an LBS
that's been around a while to locate one today. Phil Brown

"Phil Brown" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

I'm debating converting an old frame of mine from "top of
chainstay" derailer routing to "under the bottom bracket,
bottom of chainstay"

routing,

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

primarily because I'm having issues with the angle in
which the front derailer cable approaches my front
derailer.

What's the issue? It's presumably been working for a
while. If you want to change it you can just run the
cables under the BB shell, no guide really needed.

Actually, it's a new installation, going from single ring to
a double. I suppose that no guide actually might work,
although it seems easy enough to epoxy one on there.

Kyle

Hi Kyle, I'm unsure about a cable stop, but I do know
Brandord Bike (And probably many others) carry the Campy
Stainless steel Black coated bottom bracket cable guide.

As another poster has mentioned 3-M double sided tape, which
is easily gotten at Wal-Mart in the auto section should hold
the cable guide well.

Or perhaps another option would be to apply a small dab of
Clear RTV Silicone Caulk to the bottom bracket, apply it
with the frame upside down, and let this set up for a few
days before going any further with assembly.

With the RTV, it will be a 100% waterproof bond, and once
the silicone is fully cured, that part ain't going
anywhere! With just the right amount of caulk, the bond
should be virtually invisble, and to get it off, you'd have
to cut it off with a knife. Either of these solutions may
be a better choice than drilling/tapping a hole. Hope this
helps you, Mark

"Kyle.B.H" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:<coWic.32915$GR.4231353@attbi_s01>...

Quoted message said:

I'm debating converting an old frame of mine from "top of
chainstay" derailer routing to "under the bottom bracket,
bottom of chainstay" routing, primarily because I'm having
issues with the angle in which the front derailer cable
approaches my front derailer. Seems to me I need to do the
following:

Drill and tap an appropriatly sized (?) hole in the BB
shell to accept a cable guide. Any gotcha's?

Find a chainstay mounted cable stop - do these exist?

Thanks,

Kyle