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Conversion to Ultegra 10speed

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Australia and New Zealand
Published
25 June 2006
Last activity
27 June 2006
Original author
Travis
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17
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  1. Yesterday, I was speaking to a bicycle coach who said that the 10sp
    Ultegra crankset and BB could be used on a 9sp setup, and vice versa.

    Sheldon Brown says this: "Note, also that rear derailers do not care
    how many gears you have. You do not need to have a so-called "10-speed"
    derailer to use a 10-speed cassette. This is true of all Shimano
    derailers with the exception of 1996 and earlier (pre-9-speed) Dura-Ace
    units." at http://sheldonbrown.com/k7.html

    The same article also says "Also, hubs marked "8-speed, 9-speed or
    10-speed will work with any number of sprockets! (Add a 4.5 mm spacer
    before installing a 7-speed cassette on an 8-, 9-, or 10-speed hub.)"

    However, he then says "2004-2006 Dura-Ace 7800 10 speed hubs only
    accept Dura-Ace 10 speed cassettes."

    I've heard that apart from the alloys, Ultegra 10sp is mechanically
    basically the same as Dura Ace 10, so maybe the same applies to
    Ultegra.

    Anyway, it does beg the question, what is the absolute minimum change
    required to move over from 9sp Ultegra to 10sp Ultegra? Since
    probikekit.com sells groupset bits one piece at a time (with discounts
    if you get two pieces), bits could be replaced piecemeal as they wear
    out, rather than all at once so I would have to discard otherwise
    perfectly servicable bits.

    Maybe I'm reading the various things wrongly, but would I be right in
    saying that to convert from 9sp to 10sp I would at minimum only need to
    repace the casette, STI shifters and chain?

    Travis

  2. Travis said:

    Yesterday, I was speaking to a bicycle coach who said that the 10sp
    Ultegra crankset and BB could be used on a 9sp setup, and vice versa.

    Sheldon Brown says this: "Note, also that rear derailers do not care
    how many gears you have. You do not need to have a so-called "10-speed"
    derailer to use a 10-speed cassette. This is true of all Shimano
    derailers with the exception of 1996 and earlier (pre-9-speed) Dura-Ace
    units." at http://sheldonbrown.com/k7.html

    The same article also says "Also, hubs marked "8-speed, 9-speed or
    10-speed will work with any number of sprockets! (Add a 4.5 mm spacer
    before installing a 7-speed cassette on an 8-, 9-, or 10-speed hub.)"

    However, he then says "2004-2006 Dura-Ace 7800 10 speed hubs only
    accept Dura-Ace 10 speed cassettes."

    I've heard that apart from the alloys, Ultegra 10sp is mechanically
    basically the same as Dura Ace 10, so maybe the same applies to
    Ultegra.

    The difference with the 10sp d-a hub is that it has an alloy freehub
    body, which is designed with deeper splines to match the deeper cutouts
    in the 10sp casettes, which reduces dig-in on the (soft!) freehub.
    10sp d-a freehubs are the only (AFAIK) freehubs that Shimano make that
    are al alloy, not steel. Steel freehubs don't have this problem.

    Quoted message said:

    Anyway, it does beg the question, what is the absolute minimum change
    required to move over from 9sp Ultegra to 10sp Ultegra? Since
    probikekit.com sells groupset bits one piece at a time (with discounts
    if you get two pieces), bits could be replaced piecemeal as they wear
    out, rather than all at once so I would have to discard otherwise
    perfectly servicable bits.

    cassette
    chain
    shifters
    front chainrings (9sp will work, but dowsn't shift very well)

  3. Travis said:


    Maybe I'm reading the various things wrongly, but would I be right in
    saying that to convert from 9sp to 10sp I would at minimum only need to
    repace the casette, STI shifters and chain?
    Travis

    Yes, you are correct, as a minimum you will need to replace the casette, shifters and chain.

    You should not need to change the front chainrings. This comment is based on personal experience putting a 105 10speed setup on a 1984 road bike, which still has its original front chainrings and front derailleur.

  4. Bleve said:

    cassette
    chain
    shifters
    front chainrings (9sp will work, but dowsn't shift very well)

    I got an email from Sheldon Brown about it and he added that I'd need
    new bar tape if I'm replacing shifters...

    He said the teeth are a little different for 10sp, but otherwise it
    works ok.

    I think when my shifters finally die I'll get 10sp and a new 10sp
    casette and chain. Other bits like the crankset etc can wait a while,
    maybe until I see something selling really cheaply on ebay or
    Probikekit or whatever.

    Travis

  5. Travis said:

    <snip>
    perfectly servicable bits.

    Maybe I'm reading the various things wrongly, but would I be right in
    saying that to convert from 9sp to 10sp I would at minimum only need to
    repace the casette, STI shifters and chain?


    You appear to have a problem with your keyboard. You keep typing "10sp"
    when clearly you need "1sp"

    Parbs

  6. Travis said:
    Bleve said:

    cassette
    chain
    shifters
    front chainrings (9sp will work, but dowsn't shift very well)

    I got an email from Sheldon Brown about it and he added that I'd need
    new bar tape if I'm replacing shifters...

    I've swapped shifters without damaging the bartape. It can be done 🙂

  7. So what actually is the advantage in going from 9spd to 10spd? Surely the one extra ratio doesn't warrant shelling out that amount of cash?

  8. Parbs said:

    You appear to have a problem with your keyboard. You keep typing "10sp"
    when clearly you need "1sp"

    Says Mr CABC on 2 speeds.

    Dave - who has 1.5 singlespeeds at the moment, and worked out who has my
    spare rear wheel about an hour ago.

    --
    Dave Hughes | [email hidden]
    "I've found that nurturing one's Zen nature is vital to dealing with
    technology. Violence is pretty damn useful too" - Lionel Lauer

  9. On 26/6/06 7:06 PM, in article
    [email hidden], "Resound"

    Quoted message said:


    So what actually is the advantage in going from 9spd to 10spd? Surely
    the one extra ratio doesn't warrant shelling out that amount of cash?

    All depends. I have a Chorus 9sp group laying around that I'll put on a
    training bike this year. My current ride is Chorus 10sp. I'll upgrade the
    9sp to 10sp so I can maintain simply interchange (tool free) on training
    wheels and also have different ratios in cassettes etc.

    --brett

  10. Resound said:

    So what actually is the advantage in going from 9spd to 10spd? Surely
    the one extra ratio doesn't warrant shelling out that amount of cash?

    The shifters on my bike are showing their age and will need replacing
    eventually. Its possible I could crash and ruin one sooner than
    expected.

    Casettes and chains need replacing all the time anyway, they're a
    consumable.

    Since 9sp stuff is getting harder to find (places like Probikekit only
    stock 10sp stuff), its worth thinking about the upgrade. Prices I've
    seen on new 9sp stuff are often higher than Probikekit's prices on 10sp
    stuff, so its not necessarily going to cost more to go to 10sp.

    I'm not going to throw away a perfectly useful 9sp groupset just to get
    one extra gear. This will happen only when my existing one is cactus.
    Hopefully I'll get at least one more year out of my existing shifters,
    maybe longer.

    But when I do finally have to bite the bullet and get new shifters, its
    nice to know that 10sp shifters will work on my bike with only minimal
    modifications and I don't need to shell out for a whole groupset.

    Given that, when my STI shifters do need replacing, as some day they
    will, there isn't really any reason to specially order in a 9sp unit,
    when I can buy 10sp from any number of cheap online places.

    Travis

  11. Resound said:
    Quoted message said:

    So what actually is the advantage in going from 9spd to 10spd? Surely
    the one extra ratio doesn't warrant shelling out that amount of cash?

    Travis said:

    I'm not going to throw away a perfectly useful 9sp groupset just to get
    one extra gear. This will happen only when my existing one is cactus.
    Hopefully I'll get at least one more year out of my existing shifters,
    maybe longer.

    But when I do finally have to bite the bullet and get new shifters, its
    nice to know that 10sp shifters will work on my bike with only minimal
    modifications and I don't need to shell out for a whole groupset.

    Given that, when my STI shifters do need replacing, as some day they
    will, there isn't really any reason to specially order in a 9sp unit,
    when I can buy 10sp from any number of cheap online places.

    When Shimano went to 10-speed, first with Dura-Ace, later with Ultegra
    and 105, they completely re-designed the STI units, and, for my money,
    they GREATLY improved the ergonomics of them.

    I particularly like the sort-of bulb-like projection at the top, which
    providea a whole additional hand position, with the lower fingers
    wrapped around the "bulb." I find I can even shift from this position,
    using my pinky fingers.

    I'd go with the 10-speed STIs even if I were using a 9-speed cassette
    (can't get serious low gears with current 10-speed cassettes) The
    "alternate cable routing" makes them index just fine.

    http://sheldonbrown.com/alternate

    Sheldon "Decimal System" Brown
    +------------------------------------+
    | Like Celtic-flavoured folk/rock? |
    | Check out my favorite podcast: |
    | http://celticmusicnews.com |
    +------------------------------------+
    Harris Cyclery, West Newton, Massachusetts É-U
    Télephone 617-244-9772 FAX 617-244-1041
    http://sheldonbrown.com/french/harris
    les pièces "introuvables" envoyé dans le monde entire

  12. "Bleve" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:


    Travis said:
    Bleve said:

    cassette
    chain
    shifters
    front chainrings (9sp will work, but dowsn't shift very well)

    I got an email from Sheldon Brown about it and he added that I'd need
    new bar tape if I'm replacing shifters...

    I've swapped shifters without damaging the bartape. It can be done 🙂

    Easily. Just completely unscrew the bolt that hides under the ruber hood
    and the brifter comes free of the bar (leaving the metal band around under
    the tape). Thread brake cable inner through, and then replace with new
    brifter. Finito!

    Gemm

  13. Gemma_k said:

    "Bleve" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:


    Travis said:

    Bleve wrote:

    > cassette
    > chain
    > shifters
    > front chainrings (9sp will work, but dowsn't shift very well)

    I got an email from Sheldon Brown about it and he added that I'd need
    new bar tape if I'm replacing shifters...

    I've swapped shifters without damaging the bartape. It can be done 🙂

    Easily. Just completely unscrew the bolt that hides under the ruber hood
    and the brifter comes free of the bar (leaving the metal band around under
    the tape). Thread brake cable inner through, and then replace with new
    brifter. Finito!

    Geez Gemm, next you'll be giving away the LBS shop secret of how to
    replace bottom brackets with a mallet 🙂

  14. "Bleve" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:


    Gemma_k said:

    "Bleve" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:


    Travis wrote:
    > Bleve wrote:
    >
    > > cassette
    > > chain
    > > shifters
    > > front chainrings (9sp will work, but dowsn't shift very well)
    >
    > I got an email from Sheldon Brown about it and he added that I'd


    need

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    > new bar tape if I'm replacing shifters...

    I've swapped shifters without damaging the bartape. It can be done 🙂

    Easily. Just completely unscrew the bolt that hides under the ruber


    hood

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    and the brifter comes free of the bar (leaving the metal band around


    under

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    the tape). Thread brake cable inner through, and then replace with new
    brifter. Finito!

    Geez Gemm, next you'll be giving away the LBS shop secret of how to
    replace bottom brackets with a mallet 🙂

    Ha! I changed a headset with a hammer and piece of plywood last night :-)
    (and got the old one out with a screwdriver)
    There's just some tools I can't justify (like a headset press!)
    Gemm

  15. Gemma_k said:

    Ha! I changed a headset with a hammer and piece of plywood last night :-)
    (and got the old one out with a screwdriver)
    There's just some tools I can't justify (like a headset press!)

    Either threaded rod and a couple of blocks of wood (oh, and some washers
    and nuts), or I've successfully used quick grips or whatever they're
    called - a ratchet adjustable G-clamp type thingie so you can get a huge
    range of adjustment then start tightening a screw thread for fine
    adjust/more power.

    Or a BFO hammer.

    --
    Dave Hughes | [email hidden]
    "There are some benefits to high blood pressure", Bob mused as another
    mosquito exploded. -- unknown, Bulwer-Lytton entry

  16. Bleve said:
    Gemma_k said:

    "Bleve" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    Travis wrote:

    >Bleve wrote:
    >
    >
    >>cassette
    >>chain
    >>shifters
    >>front chainrings (9sp will work, but dowsn't shift very well)
    >
    >I got an email from Sheldon Brown about it and he added that I'd need
    >new bar tape if I'm replacing shifters...

    I've swapped shifters without damaging the bartape. It can be done 🙂

    Easily. Just completely unscrew the bolt that hides under the ruber hood
    and the brifter comes free of the bar (leaving the metal band around under
    the tape). Thread brake cable inner through, and then replace with new
    brifter. Finito!

    Geez Gemm, next you'll be giving away the LBS shop secret of how to
    replace bottom brackets with a mallet 🙂

    My gut feeling is that a mallet has the wrong thread to fit the cranks 🙂

  17. dave said:
    Quoted message said:

    Geez Gemm, next you'll be giving away the LBS shop secret of how to
    replace bottom brackets with a mallet 🙂

    My gut feeling is that a mallet has the wrong thread to fit the cranks 🙂

    It does require a lathe and some glue ...

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