Compact Geometry and Long Distance

Quoted message said:

How does compact geometry affect comfort over long distances? if at all.

It doesn't...except perhaps, in decreasing available water bottle space/access in smaller sizes.

PH

Quoted message said:

How does compact geometry affect comfort over long distances? if at all.

It allows you to have a higher headtube relative to the standover height. Thus, it is easier to have
higher bars. B

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Quoted message said:

It allows you to have a higher headtube relative to the standover height. Thus, it is easier to
have higher bars.

But the seatpost has to be longer making the bars relatively lower. Stick with a traditional
geometry for comfort- Compact geometry is just a way for bike companies to produce three sizes and
get as many suckers on them as they can. A bike 1 cm large or small is easy to deal with but compact
frames mwke fitting much more difficult

Quoted message said:

But the seatpost has to be longer making the bars relatively lower

Seatposts are made to be raised/lowered. Not so with unthreaded fork/stems. B

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"B" <[email hidden]> wrote in message

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

How does compact geometry affect comfort over long distances? if at all.

It allows you to have a higher headtube relative to the standover height. Thus, it is easier to
have higher bars. B

True in theory, but as built, most compacts simply shorten the seat tube. The top tube length is the
important measurement and assuming the TT is correct for a particular body, you will get plenty of
(somewhat useless) standover height with a very long seat post and no more additional height on the
headtube and handlebar then on a standard diamond frame.

There might be others, but Rivendell and Heron are the only manufacturers (I'm not doing much
research, mind you) that I'm aware of, that deliberately make a longer head tube that has the top
tube rising to the head tube, as opposed to a typical compact that has the TT dropping to a
shorter seat tube. The Riv's and Herons do this so as to get the handlebar up the same height of
the seat without resorting to a long quill stem (so goes the theory). This is a much different
theory then found on compact designs where you still have to resort to a couple of inches of stack
height spacers on the steerer tube (assuming it came un-cut) to get the handlebar up near the
saddle height.

SB

It makes the bike a little trickier to handle (i.e., more responsive), this can result in a more
fatigue over the long rum. Also shorter, more compact frames are less resilient, they tend to
transfer more road shock to the rider.

Look at a touring bike, which is designed for the long haul, and compare it to a racing bike, which
is nmore designed for speed than comfort over distance.

May you have the wind at your back. And a really low gear for the hills! Chris

Chris'Z Corner "The Website for the Common Bicyclist": geocities.comczcornerOpen ↗

"Steve" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:O9fXa.72576

Quoted message said:

"B" <[email hidden]> wrote in message

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

How does compact geometry affect comfort over long distances? if at

all.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

It allows you to have a higher headtube relative to the standover

height.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Thus, it is easier to have higher bars. B

B, I think that there is a distinction between frames designed as compact frames that frames that
have higher head tubes. Both have sloping top tubes, but a compact is designed to be smaller
("compact"😉 than a standard level top tube frame for a given rider size, while the bikes like
sloping top tube Rivendells are not "compact" relative to a level top tube frame. They are bigger if
anything, with similar seat post extension to level top tube frames, but higher head tubes. Sloping
top tubes do no necessarily equal "compact".

Quoted message said:

True in theory, but as built, most compacts simply shorten the seat tube. The top tube length
is the important measurement and assuming the TT is correct for a particular body, you will
get plenty of (somewhat useless) standover height with a very long seat post and no more
additional height

on

Quoted message said:

the headtube and handlebar then on a standard diamond frame.

There might be others, but Rivendell and Heron are the only manufacturers (I'm not doing much
research, mind you) that I'm aware of, that

deliberately

Quoted message said:

make a longer head tube that has the top tube rising to the head tube, as opposed to a typical
compact that has the TT dropping to a shorter seat tube. The Riv's and Herons do this so as to get
the handlebar up the same height of the seat without resorting to a long quill stem (so goes the
theory). This is a much different theory then found on compact designs where you still have to
resort to a couple of inches of stack height

spacers

Quoted message said:

on the steerer tube (assuming it came un-cut) to get the handlebar up near the saddle height.

SB

I wouldn't the Rivendells "compact" frames. They are bigger, not smaller than standard level top
tube frames.

Compact geometry is just a way for bike companies to produce three sizes and get as many suckers on
them as they can.

Y'all ever heard of Specialized? Checked out their sizing lately? Compact frames in 1cm increments!

Mike

[This followup was posted to rec.bicycles.tech and a copy was sent to the cited author.]

In article <[email hidden]>, [email hidden] says...

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Y'all ever heard of Specialized? Checked out their sizing lately? Compact frames in 1cm
increments!

Thats's new most are S,M,L, . I still wouldnt want to get beat up on a harsh aluminum framefor 50+
miles though

I have a compact frame tourer which I find very comfortable over long distances. It has normal
height head tube (ie a real compact frame) so the seat post is a bit longer which I think softens
some of the bumps a bit. The frame is CroMo. Chainstays are longer than a road bike. Angles are not
extreme and it is stable at 85 Km/hr with panniers. Nothing fancy or expensive but I'm happy enough.

Bruce Graham

jason-<< How does compact geometry affect comfort over long distances? if at all.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

<BR><BR>

If the bike fits ya, none at all...in fact it really does nothing, when compared to a non-sloping
top tube frameset...if both fit ya..It was the stuff of the finance department...saves some frame
makers $$$

Peter Chisholm Vecchio's Bicicletteria 1833 Pearl St. Boulder, CO, 80302
(303)440-3535 vecchios.comvecchios.comOpen ↗ "Ruote convenzionali costruite eccezionalmente bene"

belij3-<< It allows you to have a higher headtube relative to the standover height. Thus, it is
easier to have higher bars. >><BR><BR>

yes but if the frameset fits, standover takes care of itself and relative placement of bars and
saddle remainsd the same-

your wheel is done, BTW-shipping today or tommorrow..need credit card info-

Peter Chisholm Vecchio's Bicicletteria 1833 Pearl St. Boulder, CO, 80302
(303)440-3535 vecchios.comvecchios.comOpen ↗ "Ruote convenzionali costruite eccezionalmente bene"

Jason T said:

How does compact geometry affect comfort over long distances? if at all.

It may be a little tougher to fit properly, or at least, your LBS may not have as much experience
fitting compact frames; and nothing is worse over long distances than a bad fit.

I can't imagine any other noticable effects. You're likely to end up with a long seatpost and/or
stem, so they could conceivably have more flex to them than shorter ones; this could be more or less
comfortable for you.

My compact has a rather short wheelbase, and that probably rides differently than if the wheels were
farther apart.

Advantage to the compact: I've never hurt my balls on the top tube...

--
Rick Onanian

Pete Hausner said:

Quoted message said:

How does compact geometry affect comfort over long distances? if at all.

It doesn't...except perhaps, in decreasing available water bottle space/access in smaller sizes.

Good point. My medium Giant TCR2 fits two 28oz standard-shape water bottles in standard cages, but
the one on the seat tube is a bit tough to get in and out, so I swap them when the one on the
downtube is empty.

Quoted message said:

PH

--
Rick Onanian

Jkpoulos7 said:

I still wouldnt want to get beat up on a harsh aluminum framefor 50+ miles though

For comfort, you're better off with a nice steel frame, but only after several thousand miles when
that harsh steel softens up a bit. But be sure to use only aged tires, the factory fresh ones are
also harsh. And don't tie and solder your wheels, that makes them super stiff.
--
terry morse Palo Alto, CA terrymorse.combikeOpen ↗

Terry Morse said:

Jkpoulos7 said:

I still wouldnt want to get beat up on a harsh aluminum framefor 50+ miles though

For comfort, you're better off with a nice steel frame, but only after several thousand miles when
that harsh steel softens up a bit. But be sure to use only aged tires, the factory fresh ones are
also harsh. And don't tie and solder your wheels, that makes them super stiff.

You forgot to mention ti steer tubes, carbon fiber seat posts and seat stays!!!

Mark Hickey Habanero Cycles habcycles.comhabcycles.comOpen ↗ Home of the $695 ti frame

Jason T said:

How does compact geometry affect comfort over long distances? if at all.

I have and try to ride now after a very long hiatus... a Masi Record TT. The geometry is very
compact. The ride is much better than I remembered it to be. It is extremely responsive to the point
of dangerous. The bike has an extra long seat tube. I ride a 55-56 road frame configured normally.
This bike is a 62cm frame and I have mavic horn bars on it and for a HB stem I use a Specialized
120mm MB style stem that has about a 125 degree (guessing) compared to a road stem that has about a
75 to 80 degree (guessing) angle. It keeps my fat gut from hurting and makes the bike rideable to
me... It may not be "aesthetically correct" but I like it.

The more my chest is over the handlebars tends shorten the time I like to be on the bike. So,
depending on the length of the TT or ride depends on the type of HB stem I use on the bike... The
bike is 4-5 lbs lighter than my road bike (both are 12 years old atleast).

IMHO, NS

Mark Hickey said:

Terry Morse said:

For comfort, you're better off with a nice steel frame, but only after several thousand miles
when that harsh steel softens up a bit. But be sure to use only aged tires, the factory fresh
ones are also harsh. And don't tie and solder your wheels, that makes them super stiff.

You forgot to mention ti steer tubes, carbon fiber seat posts and seat stays!!!

Silly me! Sillier you.
--
terry morse Palo Alto, CA terrymorse.combikeOpen ↗

(Qui si parla Campagnolo) said:

terry-<< For comfort, you're better off with a nice steel frame, but only after several thousand
miles when that harsh steel softens up a bit. But be sure to use only aged tires, the factory fresh
ones are also harsh. And don't tie and solder your wheels, that makes them super stiff. >><BR><BR>

Be sure to soak your chamois in brine before riding as well...

(I hope we don't have a disgruntled follow-up to THAT pearl of wisdom...).

Mark Hickey Habanero Cycles habcycles.comhabcycles.comOpen ↗ Home of the $695 ti frame

Quoted post said:

Originally posted by Mark Hickey

Quoted message said:

Be sure to soak your chamois in brine before riding as well...

[/B]

Actually, nothing works better on a chamois than Icy Hot.

It really takes the sting out of narrow HP tires, fat aluminium tubes, and magnesium railed saddles when riding over chip seal roads on a compact frame with not enough spokes and too many gears. I buy it in the big tubs.