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Compact Chainsets & Road Bikes

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UK and Europe
Published
14 December 2004
Last activity
28 May 2012
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[Not Responding]
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  1. Simply, what is a compact chainset?

    I'm thinking of buying a road bike and have come across these referred
    to as an alternative to a triple. But I haven't a clue as to what one
    is - anyone help me?

    While I'm posting, anyone got any suggestions for a lightweight, fast
    but comfortable audax type bike? What are the qualitative differences
    between, say, cheaper Dawes or Thorn Audax bikes and the pricier
    Pearsons, Longstaffs, Roberts etc?

  2. Not Responding said:

    Simply, what is a compact chainset?

    I'm thinking of buying a road bike and have come across these


    referred

    Quoted message said:

    to as an alternative to a triple. But I haven't a clue as to what one
    is - anyone help me?

    'Compact' double chainsets for road bikes are ones which allow the use
    of a smaller than normal inner ring; conventional road chainsets
    usually have a 38 or 39 tooth inner ring at the very smallest. With the
    'compact' pattern, the bolt circle diameter on the spider is smaller,
    allowing smaller diameter rings with less teeth to be used, down to a
    34T minimum. The idea isn't really a new one - Stronglight have offered
    double chainsets which can take a 36T inner for years, and the Shimano
    RSX group offered a 48/36 combo before such things became fashionable.
    David E. Belcher

  3. David E. Belcher said:
    Not Responding said:

    Simply, what is a compact chainset?


    'Compact' double chainsets for road bikes are ones which allow the use
    of a smaller than normal inner ring; conventional road chainsets
    usually have a 38 or 39 tooth inner ring at the very smallest. With
    the 'compact' pattern, the bolt circle diameter on the spider is
    smaller, allowing smaller diameter rings with less teeth to be used,
    down to a 34T minimum. The idea isn't really a new one - Stronglight
    have offered double chainsets which can take a 36T inner for years,

    s/36/28 for the Stronglight 99 and its cousins.

    --

    Dave Larrington - http://www.legslarry.beerdrinkers.co.uk/
    World Domination?
    Just find a world that's into that kind of thing, then chain to the
    floor and walk up and down on it in high heels. (Mr. Sunshine)

  4. " [Not Responding] " <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    Simply, what is a compact chainset?

    I'm thinking of buying a road bike and have come across these referred
    to as an alternative to a triple. But I haven't a clue as to what one
    is - anyone help me?

    While I'm posting, anyone got any suggestions for a lightweight, fast
    but comfortable audax type bike? What are the qualitative differences
    between, say, cheaper Dawes or Thorn Audax bikes and the pricier
    Pearsons, Longstaffs, Roberts etc?


    Differences are largely be that the cheaper options tend to be offered as
    a complete package and are instantly available whereas others can be
    customised to your needs plus of course you can pay a bit more and have the
    frame made to measure; these obviously take a bit longer. If you give us an
    idea about your intended budget and use we'll probably be able to offer more
    specific advice. Personally I had a made to measure frame built up by my LBS
    with components all of my choosing but it's not the route for everyone.

    HTH
    Julia

  5. " [Not Responding] " <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    Simply, what is a compact chainset?

    I'm thinking of buying a road bike and have come across these referred
    to as an alternative to a triple. But I haven't a clue as to what one
    is - anyone help me?

    While I'm posting, anyone got any suggestions for a lightweight, fast
    but comfortable audax type bike? What are the qualitative differences
    between, say, cheaper Dawes or Thorn Audax bikes and the pricier
    Pearsons, Longstaffs, Roberts etc?

    Don't forget the 'start from a frame' option too - eg mine is based on a
    Kinesis Racelight-T.

    cheers,
    clive

  6. On Tue, 14 Dec 2004 11:08:53 -0000, "JBB" <[email hidden]>

    Quoted message said:

    Differences are largely be that the cheaper options tend to be offered as
    a complete package and are instantly available whereas others can be
    customised to your needs plus of course you can pay a bit more and have the
    frame made to measure; these obviously take a bit longer. If you give us an
    idea about your intended budget and use we'll probably be able to offer more
    specific advice. Personally I had a made to measure frame built up by my LBS
    with components all of my choosing but it's not the route for everyone.

    A year ago, I had one bike for all purposes; a lightweight flat barred
    Ridgeback. I used it for commuting and for >100 mile rides.

    In June I wanted a new bike just to see if I was physically capable of
    riding so bought a Halfords special which could later (now) become a
    utilitarian hack and commute. It's actually not a bad bike but now
    that I want to try and get fit again and try for some longer
    distances, I'd like something more appropriate.

    As I already have a utility bike, for the first time ever I'm looking
    for a single purpose machine rather than an all rounder. I hope to get
    back up to covering 100 miles and more. It won't be used every day so
    I'll be happy to give it the cleaning and care that my day-to-day
    bikes rarely get.

    I'm not interested in heavy load carrying but would want to be able to
    take *something* (unlike pure race bikes).

    I'm not really working to a budget but I don't like wasteful
    expenditure. Spending £4k on a carbon-everything would be wasted on
    me! OK, let's put a figure on it; say £1750. But I'm not ruling out a
    £600 off the peg bike just because I could spend more.

    Finally, for all the wrong reasons, I would like a light bike.

  7. [Not Responding] wrote:

    [snip]

    Quoted message said:

    I'm not interested in heavy load carrying but would want to be able to
    take *something* (unlike pure race bikes).


    [snip]

    Using a back-pack when cycling is pretty much a last resort. They are
    principally designed for walking and they become uncomfortable on a bike
    with any significant weight in them. If you want to able to carry all
    you are likely to need for a day trip, a saddlebag is excellent, and its
    easy to leave it off the bike when not required. Those who take pride in
    carrying the bare minimum find a saddle bag sufficient for even longer
    journeys. You would of course need a saddle that's suitable (e.g. Brooks).

    Another possibility is a handlebar bag, such as the Ortlieb one. I'm
    very happy with mine, and it has an excellent map pocket. However, its
    smaller than a typical saddlebag.

    If that's not enough you should start looking at panniers and the
    associated racks, but it sounds as though you don't see any need to go
    that far.

    --
    Joe * If I cannot be free I'll be cheap

  8. JLB said:

    Using a back-pack when cycling is pretty much a last resort. They are
    principally designed for walking and they become uncomfortable on a
    bike with any significant weight in them. If you want to able to
    carry all
    you are likely to need for a day trip, a saddlebag is excellent, and
    its easy to leave it off the bike when not required. Those who take
    pride in carrying the bare minimum find a saddle bag sufficient for
    even longer journeys. You would of course need a saddle that's
    suitable (e.g. Brooks).

    Or one of these: <URL:
    sjscycles.comvIndex.htm

    --

    Dave Larrington - http://www.legslarry.beerdrinkers.co.uk/
    World Domination?
    Just find a world that's into that kind of thing, then chain to the
    floor and walk up and down on it in high heels. (Mr. Sunshine)

  9. in message <[email hidden]>, [Not

    Responding (') said:

    Simply, what is a compact chainset?

    I'm thinking of buying a road bike and have come across these referred
    to as an alternative to a triple. But I haven't a clue as to what one
    is - anyone help me?

    My understanding is that a 'compact' is a double chainset with
    relatively small chain rings - although not as small as those typically
    used on mountain bikes. E.g., a 48/34 double.

    --
    [email hidden] (Simon Brooke) http://www.jasmine.org.uk/~simon/
    /-\ You have discovered a security flaw in a Microsoft product. You
    |-| can report this issue to our security tesm. Would you like to
    | | * Be completely ignored (default)?
    | | * Receive a form email full of platitudes about how much we care?
    \_/ * Spend hours helping us fix this problem for free?

  10. "David E. Belcher" <[email hidden]>typed

    Quoted message said:
    Not Responding said:

    Simply, what is a compact chainset?

    I'm thinking of buying a road bike and have come across these


    referred

    Quoted message said:

    to as an alternative to a triple. But I haven't a clue as to what one
    is - anyone help me?

    Quoted message said:

    'Compact' double chainsets for road bikes are ones which allow the use
    of a smaller than normal inner ring; conventional road chainsets
    usually have a 38 or 39 tooth inner ring at the very smallest. With the
    'compact' pattern, the bolt circle diameter on the spider is smaller,
    allowing smaller diameter rings with less teeth to be used, down to a
    34T minimum. The idea isn't really a new one - Stronglight have offered
    double chainsets which can take a 36T inner for years, and the Shimano
    RSX group offered a 48/36 combo before such things became fashionable.
    David E. Belcher

    Remember, compact chainsets will wear *much* faster than larger ones.

    Fine if you want disposable equipment :-(

    --
    Helen D. Vecht: [email hidden]
    Edgware.

  11. "Dave Larrington" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:
    JLB said:

    Using a back-pack when cycling is pretty much a last resort. They are
    principally designed for walking and they become uncomfortable on a
    bike with any significant weight in them. If you want to able to
    carry all
    you are likely to need for a day trip, a saddlebag is excellent, and
    its easy to leave it off the bike when not required. Those who take
    pride in carrying the bare minimum find a saddle bag sufficient for
    even longer journeys. You would of course need a saddle that's
    suitable (e.g. Brooks).

    Or one of these: <URL:
    sjscycles.comvIndex.htm

    Or one of these:

    http://www.carradice.co.uk/sqr-products.htm

    cheers,
    clive

  12. On 14/12/04 2:16 pm, in article [email hidden],

    Helen Deborah Vecht said:

    Remember, compact chainsets will wear *much* faster than larger ones.

    Fine if you want disposable equipment :-(

    But they wear the knees out slower..

    Fine if you don't like disposable prosthetics.

    ...d

  13. "David Martin" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    On 14/12/04 2:16 pm, in article [email hidden],

    Helen Deborah Vecht said:

    Remember, compact chainsets will wear *much* faster than larger ones.

    Fine if you want disposable equipment :-(

    But they wear the knees out slower..

    Now just exactly HOW do you get this?

    Your knees don't know or care what size of ring is between them and the
    road. The only factors that affect them are load, range of motion, &
    frequency (with an asterisk should you have lever-drive or non-circular
    rings).

    Or are the type of person who believes marketing blather?

  14. Helen Deborah Vecht said:

    Remember, compact chainsets will wear *much* faster than larger ones.

    Not tooooo much faster if using only slightly smaller rings, say 50/36 v
    52/39. Even those few teeth make a nice difference to the gearing.

    Quoted message said:

    Fine if you want disposable equipment :-(

    It's only money :-)

    ~PB

  15. Pete Biggs said:
    Helen Deborah Vecht said:

    Remember, compact chainsets will wear *much* faster than larger


    ones.

    Quoted message said:


    Not tooooo much faster if using only slightly smaller rings, say


    50/36 v

    Quoted message said:

    52/39. Even those few teeth make a nice difference to the gearing.

    I've not had any excessive wear problems using a 46/36 combo for
    cyclo-cross (as against most people's 48/38 or 48/39), and said
    chainset has run the same rings for nearly 3 years. It also enables me
    to use a rear cassette with a 23T or 24T max sprocket, which are much
    easier to come by than wide-ratio stuff in the Campag 8sp format my
    rear wheel uses, without being too highly geared for off-roading.
    David E. Belcher

  16. David E. Belcher said:
    Pete Biggs said:
    Helen Deborah Vecht said:

    Remember, compact chainsets will wear *much* faster than larger
    ones.

    Not tooooo much faster if using only slightly smaller rings, say
    50/36 v 52/39. Even those few teeth make a nice difference to the
    gearing.

    I've not had any excessive wear problems using a 46/36 combo for
    cyclo-cross (as against most people's 48/38 or 48/39), and said
    chainset has run the same rings for nearly 3 years. It also enables me
    to use a rear cassette with a 23T or 24T max sprocket, which are much
    easier to come by than wide-ratio stuff in the Campag 8sp format my
    rear wheel uses, without being too highly geared for off-roading.

    I used 42/28 for /years/ without undue wear prombles.

    --

    Dave Larrington - http://www.legslarry.beerdrinkers.co.uk/
    World Domination?
    Just find a world that's into that kind of thing, then chain to the
    floor and walk up and down on it in high heels. (Mr. Sunshine)

  17. jtaylor said:
    Quoted message said:

    But they wear the knees out slower..

    Now just exactly HOW do you get this?

    Your knees don't know or care what size of ring is between them and
    the road. The only factors that affect them are load, range of
    motion, & frequency (with an asterisk should you have lever-drive or
    non-circular rings).

    Knees can suffer if you're over-geared and trying to climb quickly.
    There's only so low you can go without a compact or triple chainset.

    ~PB

  18. On 14/12/04 3:16 pm, in article [email hidden],

    jtaylor said:


    "David Martin" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    On 14/12/04 2:16 pm, in article [email hidden],

    Helen Deborah Vecht said:

    Remember, compact chainsets will wear *much* faster than larger ones.

    Fine if you want disposable equipment :-(

    But they wear the knees out slower..

    Now just exactly HOW do you get this?

    Your knees don't know or care what size of ring is between them and the
    road. The only factors that affect them are load, range of motion, &
    frequency (with an asterisk should you have lever-drive or non-circular
    rings).

    And load is determined by gearing, hilliness and weight. As I am definitely
    over weight, and Dundee environs could be regarded as over hilly, being
    overgeared is a bad thing. I frequently use my lowest gear on the road bike
    (39x26) and really could do with something a bit easier for the steeper
    hills. I never use the top gears (52x12,13) and rarely the 52x14, even when
    doing a TT.

    Quoted message said:

    Or are the type of person who believes marketing blather?

    Me? Gullible? really?

    ...d

  19. "Dave Larrington" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    I used 42/28 for /years/ without undue wear prombles.

    Well mtb'ers will use something like 44/32/22 for years without prombles. A
    standard road triple could be something like 52/42/30 and you won't
    necessarily see the middle and inner rings rapidly wearing out just because
    of their size (my middle will probably wear before the other two but that's
    because I tend to stay in it nearly all the time!) I don't really think you
    can say compact chainsets are necessarily going to wear _much_ quicker than
    bigger rings. I think that once I start training for a certain seriously
    hilly ride I shall quite happily wimp out into a 48/36/26! I think
    excessive wear on the chainrings will be the least of my problems!

    Rich

  20. Helen Deborah Vecht <[email hidden]> wrote:

    : Remember, compact chainsets will wear *much* faster than larger ones.

    Really? Why?

    I run either 34/48 or 38/48 depending. Most of the time I stay in the
    48. By your argument (smaller rings wear quicker) things will last
    longer than if I used a 32/42/52 triple or similar.

    Arthur

    --
    Arthur Clune PGP/GPG Key: http://www.clune.org/pubkey.txt
    It is better to light a candle than to curse the darkness

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