vivalargo said:It's totally possible to ride fairly technical single tracks on the
Coker but the limiting factor is gear--unless there's gear I haven't
heard of. I slapped some Black Widow 175's on and bent them (slightly)
on a measly two foot drop. Rolling hops (drops) seem to be are okay.
But I'm not much of a Coker dude so far as knowledge and experience
goes--maybe there's some way to string a Airfoil rim to a Profile hub
or something since the other hubs are garbage--like tin.
Don't know what the outter envelop is here but I reckon to find out
tomorrow with the OC crew.
JL
I'm using the 'PDC modified Kooka cranks'
(http://www.unicyclist.com/forums/showthread.php?t=51014) with my Coker
now. They're drilled for 130, 150, 170. The Kooka cranks are strong.
If you can find some, get them.
The Black Widows aren't that strong for more aggressive muni riding.
An inexpensive alternative would be Sugino tandem cranks. They are
available in 170 or 175. The captain's right crank on a tandem has no
spider. So you get a RH captain's crank and pair it with a matching LH
normal crank. You can get the Sugino cranks from any bike shop that
has the QBC catalog. Price is $15-$20 for each crank (so $30-$40 for
the pair). 'Alfred E. Bike' (http://aebike.com/index.cfm) has them in
their online catalog (search the catalog for "tandem"😉. They're better
than the Black Widow's, but still not the strongest cranks around.
The problem with a Profile hub is that the hub is too narrow. The
wheel build will not be very strong. You need a wide hub.
The other problem will be keeping the wheel true. I regularly knock my
Coker wheel out of true doing XC muni with it. It will go out of true
and rub the brake. A Stockton wheel build would do better (mine is a
local wheel build). But the big wheel can only take so much before it
will go out of true.
--
john_childs
john_childs (att) hotmail (dott) com
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