Clydesdale wheel set

Sevenrider said:

A wheelbuilder recomended the following wheels for my 110Kg frame.
DT 240s 130mm road 32/32
DT RR 1.1 32 double eyelet or Velocity Fusion (stronger rim)
DT supercomp triple butted(2.0X1.7X1.8) or Areolite alloy nipples
Any thoiughts please share Thanks Mark

Go for Open Pro, the new RR1.1 are very heavy and the old ones pull eyelets (recent experience). Nothing wrong with Velocity either though. I never had a problem with aerolites but I am 62kg, so little difference there. Maybe comps on the rear and aerolite on the front. You won't go bad with DT hubs, cannot fault them. I am going to go for Neutrons now so I am straying away from my Swiss faith (Shock and horror :eek🙂

Sevenrider said:

A wheelbuilder recomended the following wheels for my 110Kg frame.
DT 240s 130mm road 32/32
DT RR 1.1 32 double eyelet or Velocity Fusion (stronger rim)
DT supercomp triple butted(2.0X1.7X1.8) or Areolite alloy nipples
Any thoiughts please share Thanks Mark

No doubt, the components which have been suggested to you would be a nice wheelset, but YOU may encounter some maintenance issues if the roads you ride on are less than perfect.

A 36 spoke rear wheel would be stronger -- much stronger.

Spec 14g straight gauge spokes -- laced x3 on the drive side & x2 on the non-drive side with a "regular" (vs. narrow flange spaced 240s) rear hub.

I think the OLDer DT/Hugi 240 was available in a 36h drilling, but maybe not.

Brass nipples are a must for a proper, low-maintenance wheel build ...

YOU are too heavy to buy what is essentially a weight weenie's wheelset.

BTW. About a third of my wheelsets have Open Pro (622-15) rims, a third have the older Open Reflex (622-13) rims, and a third fall into the "other" category ... rightly-or-wrongly, the Open Pro is the current benchmark rim against which other rims are compared ...

You do not specify the intended usage, but for a 'daily driver', all-round training wheelset:

I agree with alfeng regarding brass nipples are also what I would build your wheels with. They are much stronger than aluminum. However, butted spokes rarely break at the thin portion so I'm going to to say you will be fine with 14/15/14 butted DT spokes. i see the 'big boys' in my area successfully riding 32-spoke 3-cross wheels all the time. Our roads are fair to poor in many places and no one is crushing wheels.

Campagnolo record hubs would be my choice. With their easy-access grease port they are easy to re-grease. In 34 years I've yet to manage to break a campy hub.

I'll add another vote for Mavic Open Pro rims for clinchers and the Reflex model for sew-ups. I ride both models and they offer good strength-to-weight.

Heavier guys are hard on the rims, not nearly so much on the hubs so my suggestion is the Velocity Fusion rims in 36 hole (or maybe the aero version), double butted spokes are fine. And any other nice hub that comes drilled for 36 (Phil Wood if you have $500 for a pair) and stick with 3-cross lacing.

Heavier guys have to use a lot more braking so the sidewalls thin out faster so they need more material there to begin with.

Heavier guys put more load on the spokes so they need more spokes and higher tension and that requires a stronger rim.

Heavier guys take pot hole hits a lot harder so that requires a more rigid rim (like aero section).

http://www.philwood.com/Price%20List/P04.pdf seriously, you could rebuild wheels on these hubs forever.

I am looking for the lightest possible rim fast club rides ect... our roads do get rough and its good advice I looked at Phil Wood site they are twice as heavy as DT's Thanks for the insight. Mark

DiabloScott said:

Heavier guys are hard on the rims, not nearly so much on the hubs so my suggestion is the Velocity Fusion rims in 36 hole (or maybe the aero version), double butted spokes are fine. And any other nice hub that comes drilled for 36 (Phil Wood if you have $500 for a pair) and stick with 3-cross lacing.

Heavier guys have to use a lot more braking so the sidewalls thin out faster so they need more material there to begin with.

Heavier guys put more load on the spokes so they need more spokes and higher tension and that requires a stronger rim.

Heavier guys take pot hole hits a lot harder so that requires a more rigid rim (like aero section).

philwood.comP04.pdfOpen ↗ seriously, you could rebuild wheels on these hubs forever.

Veocity Deep V rim or a NOS Mavic CXP30 if you could find a set.
32 spokes F/R, maybe 36 in the rear if you want them really durable.
Brass nipples and laced 3x.
If you have problems with destroying rear axles then Phil Wood hubs.
Shimano's hubs are probably better for heavy riders because the main drive-side bearing is further from the center than Campy's are.

Don't worry about saving a hundred grams. Buy something that will hold up.

Sevenrider said:

I am looking for the lightest possible rim fast club rides ect... our roads do get rough and its good advice I looked at Phil Wood site they are twice as heavy as DT's Thanks for the insight. Mark

Seriously, at 110kg you should be looking at stout, not lightest possible - you're putting almost as much stress on your wheels as some tandems. Heavier riders do break stuff and when that happens they sometimes get hurt. Anyway, aero will buy you more speed on fast flattish rides than reduced rim weight.

Clydesdale == Bontrager == no weight limit (so my LBS says and they haven't let me down yet)

Bro Deal said:

Veocity Deep V rim or a NOS Mavic CXP30 if you could find a set.
32 spokes F/R, maybe 36 in the rear if you want them really durable.
Brass nipples and laced 3x.
If you have problems with destroying rear axles then Phil Wood hubs.
Shimano's hubs are probably better for heavy riders because the main drive-side bearing is further from the center than Campy's are.

Don't worry about saving a hundred grams. Buy something that will hold up.

I agree with this approach.
I build lots of wheels for Clydesdales and know that this approach always works.
I use Sapim Race 14/15 DB spokes with Sapim Polyax Brass nipples. I have built 1,200 wheels and haven't had a broken spoke yet.
The idea of shaving the last gram or two for a 110 kg rider is what often puts them into having wheel repairs.
I also suggest using the widest tires your frame/fork/brakes will clear. They may weigh more but are worth it in providing protection for rider and rims.

Sevenrider said:

A wheelbuilder recomended the following wheels for my 110Kg frame.
DT 240s 130mm road 32/32
DT RR 1.1 32 double eyelet or Velocity Fusion (stronger rim)
DT supercomp triple butted(2.0X1.7X1.8) or Areolite alloy nipples
Any thoiughts please share Thanks Mark

I weigh 105kg. My LBS recommended I re-use my 32 hole DT hubs with new DT RR1.1 dble eyelet with DT DB spokes to replace my (cracked - spkes pulled thru) Ritchey OCR Pro rear rims. The wheel has only done about 350km - including 4 races - so too early to tell. My LBS is well aware of my tendency to break rims etc, so I believe they were being quite conservative. I do not find them heavy at all.