Cleaning one's chain

Brendo said:

I purchased a hwile back one of those three brush cleaning mechanisms
that attaches to your chain while it's on the bike. You fill the 'sump'
with clening fluid, attach the lid and then turn the crank until it's
clean.

It worked fine, using citrus degreaser, but the brushes were faily [censored]
and they broke. I've broken the three originals and two of the spares.
Only one brush left, which renders the device 'knackered'

My question is, what is the simplest most effective way to clean one's
chain? Kerosene, citrus based degreaser, other? And is one of the
aforementioned machines (but obviously one of superior make. That one
cost around $25) the way to go, or just submerge the chain in a bowl of
cleaner?

Help me...

Don't clean it! Use a lubricant that the crud doesn't stick to; I use
Prolink and just put a bit on when the chain starts to make itself
heard. There are other non-sticky lubricants that are teflon based that
I have not used that may be as good. I like Prolink.
Halcyon

Halcyon said:

Brendo said:

I purchased a hwile back one of those three brush cleaning mechanisms
that attaches to your chain while it's on the bike. You fill the
'sump' with clening fluid, attach the lid and then turn the crank
until it's clean.

It worked fine, using citrus degreaser, but the brushes were faily
[censored] and they broke. I've broken the three originals and two of the
spares. Only one brush left, which renders the device 'knackered'

My question is, what is the simplest most effective way to clean one's
chain? Kerosene, citrus based degreaser, other? And is one of the
aforementioned machines (but obviously one of superior make. That one
cost around $25) the way to go, or just submerge the chain in a bowl
of cleaner?

Help me...

Don't clean it! Use a lubricant that the crud doesn't stick to; I use
Prolink and just put a bit on when the chain starts to make itself
heard. There are other non-sticky lubricants that are teflon based that
I have not used that may be as good. I like Prolink.
Halcyon

However, now that it has the crud stuck to it, it needs cleaning
before I can put the non crud sticking lubricant. We're back to
step one...

Brendo said:

Quoted message said:

Don't clean it! Use a lubricant that the crud doesn't stick to; I use
Prolink and just put a bit on when the chain starts to make itself
heard. There are other non-sticky lubricants that are teflon based
that I have not used that may be as good. I like Prolink.
Halcyon

However, now that it has the crud stuck to it, it needs cleaning before
I can put the non crud sticking lubricant. We're back to step one...

Not really.
I put sticky motorbike chain oil on my mountain bike chain and before
long I had plenty of fine sand and other muck stuck on the chain. Two or
three applications of Prolink with the chain run through cloth in
between applications got rid of most of it and the chain fairly clean.
The rest will come off with more use until the chain is as clean as it
need be. Does it need to be sparkling? I doubt it.
Halcyon

Take the chain off the bike with a chain removal tool and install a master link.

Now, with the chain off the bike, put it into an empty jam jar and put a heap of turps into it. Shake, agitate, and get a brush and flush the grit off the chain.

Pull it out of the jar, and put it on a paper towel to dry and wipe the rest of the [censored] off. If you have a spare chain, put the just cleaned one into a snaplock bag and soak it in prolink.

Before installing it on the bike, brush the [censored] off the chainrings and cassette.

Prolink it up and up wipe off the excess.

Halcyon said:

Not really.
I put sticky motorbike chain oil on my mountain bike chain and before
long I had plenty of fine sand and other muck stuck on the chain. Two or
three applications of Prolink with the chain run through cloth in
between applications got rid of most of it and the chain fairly clean.
The rest will come off with more use until the chain is as clean as it
need be. Does it need to be sparkling? I doubt it.
Halcyon

actually I will put in a 2nd vote for prolink, you can put some on a dirty chain, spin for a little bit and then with a cloth wipe the chain pretty clean, will get off all the major grim and dirt. If I am doing a full on clean I use the chain scrubber I have, but the pro-link i find is great for once every week or couple of weeks, for the apply clean with cloth and away you go.

Halcyon said:

I put sticky motorbike chain oil on my mountain bike chain and before
long I had plenty of fine sand and other muck stuck on the chain. Two or
three applications of Prolink with the chain run through cloth in
between applications got rid of most of it and the chain fairly clean.

The problem is the grit inside the rollers in the chain. This doesn't get
dislodged with a brush down, and even the roller brush type cleaners can
leave it behind.

The best way to get a chain clean is to pull it off (chain breaker, or a
quick link) and jiggle it about in a small jar of Kero. Repeat until the
kero runs clear, then hang it up to dry before putting the new lube on.

Dry lubes (aka clean lubes) are OK in dry conditions, but don't last long
when it gets a bit wet. That's not a huge concern right now, but can be
for an all weather commuter or MTB. Wet lubes, even the ones that claim to
clean your chain, attract more dirt but last longer. Swings and
roundabouts, and it's up to you to decide which you like best. I like wet
lubes because I find dry lubes get noisy too quickly.

--
Dave Hughes | [email hidden]
"Hey, watch the 'fro" - Danny Glaze

MikeyOz said:

Halcyon said:

Not really.
I put sticky motorbike chain oil on my mountain bike chain and before
long I had plenty of fine sand and other muck stuck on the chain. Two
or
three applications of Prolink with the chain run through cloth in
between applications got rid of most of it and the chain fairly clean.
The rest will come off with more use until the chain is as clean as it
need be. Does it need to be sparkling? I doubt it.
Halcyon

actually I will put in a 2nd vote for prolink, you can put some on a
dirty chain, spin for a little bit and then with a cloth wipe the chain
pretty clean, will get off all the major grim and dirt. If I am doing a
full on clean I use the chain scrubber I have, but the pro-link i find
is great for once every week or couple of weeks, for the apply clean
with cloth and away you go.

AOL Prolink. Every couple of days I wipe down the chain when I get home
and apply Prolink. Next morning I wipe it off and all's good. My chain
and cassette generally go for 8-10,000 kms between changes.

Don't be put off that you've got [censored] on your chain, Prolink will do the
job. Wipe down, apply, leave for an hour, wipe down. Rinse and repeat
until your rag no longer comes up filthy. Parawolf's method is probably
quicker mind. AOL master link too.
--
Cheers
Euan

I think the regime here is different for a road bike and a mountain
bike.

For my road bike I've followed this regime, which gives about 12 month
life on the chain:

1. Every week wash and spray with water. Oil with RP7 and wipe off the
excess.
2. Every month wash thoroughly with the brush thing, then use the RP7
again.

I don't like taking the chain off, as I tend to destroy too many
chains taking them off repeatedly.

This works for me.

Brendo said:

Halcyon said:

Brendo said:

I purchased a hwile back one of those three brush cleaning mechanisms
that attaches to your chain while it's on the bike. You fill the
'sump' with clening fluid, attach the lid and then turn the crank
until it's clean.

It worked fine, using citrus degreaser, but the brushes were faily
[censored] and they broke. I've broken the three originals and two of the
spares. Only one brush left, which renders the device 'knackered'

My question is, what is the simplest most effective way to clean one's
chain? Kerosene, citrus based degreaser, other? And is one of the
aforementioned machines (but obviously one of superior make. That one
cost around $25) the way to go, or just submerge the chain in a bowl
of cleaner?

Help me...

Don't clean it! Use a lubricant that the crud doesn't stick to; I use
Prolink and just put a bit on when the chain starts to make itself
heard. There are other non-sticky lubricants that are teflon based that
I have not used that may be as good. I like Prolink.
Halcyon

However, now that it has the crud stuck to it, it needs cleaning
before I can put the non crud sticking lubricant. We're back to
step one...

Brendo said:

I purchased a hwile back one of those three brush cleaning
mechanisms that attaches to your chain while it's on the bike.
You fill the 'sump' with clening fluid, attach the lid and then
turn the crank until it's clean.

It worked fine, using citrus degreaser, but the brushes were
faily [censored] and they broke. I've broken the three originals and
two of the spares. Only one brush left, which renders the device
'knackered'

My question is, what is the simplest most effective way to clean
one's chain? Kerosene, citrus based degreaser, other? And is one
of the aforementioned machines (but obviously one of superior
make. That one cost around $25) the way to go, or just submerge
the chain in a bowl of cleaner?

Help me...

I used motorcycle chain lube (once) and got a ton of crud stuck on
my chain. To clean it, I sprayed some Inox
(http://www.inox-mx3.com/inox.htm) on some shop towel (heavy duty
paper towel) and cupped the chain with it while turning the crank
backwards. This did a good job of getting the crud off, not as good
as putting the chain in a jar/bottle, but good enough for me, then I
lubed the clean chain with Inox.

Inox is a good wet lube that doesn't tend to dry off as much as WD40
etc and it's Aussie made and cheap.

Another Prolink vote. In these dry conditions it does attract the dust, but most of it will wash off with just water. I use a car wash brush and a rag to get the dust off from the chain, cassette and chainrings. Then relube as others have described. Otherwise, you could go through a fair amount of the stuff if used as directed.

AndrewJ said:

I think the regime here is different for a road bike and a mountain
bike.

For my road bike I've followed this regime, which gives about 12 month
life on the chain:

1. Every week wash and spray with water. Oil with RP7 and wipe off the
excess.
2. Every month wash thoroughly with the brush thing, then use the RP7
again.

I don't like taking the chain off, as I tend to destroy too many
chains taking them off repeatedly.

This works for me.

Brendo said:

Halcyon said:

Brendo wrote:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

> I purchased a hwile back one of those three brush cleaning mechanisms
> that attaches to your chain while it's on the bike. You fill the
> 'sump' with clening fluid, attach the lid and then turn the crank
> until it's clean.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

> It worked fine, using citrus degreaser, but the brushes were faily
> [censored] and they broke. I've broken the three originals and two of the
> spares. Only one brush left, which renders the device 'knackered'

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

> My question is, what is the simplest most effective way to clean one's
> chain? Kerosene, citrus based degreaser, other? And is one of the
> aforementioned machines (but obviously one of superior make. That one
> cost around $25) the way to go, or just submerge the chain in a bowl
> of cleaner?

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

> Help me...

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Don't clean it! Use a lubricant that the crud doesn't stick to; I use
Prolink and just put a bit on when the chain starts to make itself
heard. There are other non-sticky lubricants that are teflon based that
I have not used that may be as good. I like Prolink.
Halcyon

However, now that it has the crud stuck to it, it needs cleaning
before I can put the non crud sticking lubricant. We're back to
step one...- Hide quoted text -- Show quoted text -

Note that RP7 is not really oil, would be better to use a teflon based
lubricant. Your very regular cleaning probably lets you get away wiuth
an essentially unoiled chain.

PiledHigher

"Brendo" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

I purchased a hwile back one of those three brush cleaning mechanisms that
attaches to your chain while it's on the bike. You fill the 'sump' with
clening fluid, attach the lid and then turn the crank until it's clean.

It worked fine, using citrus degreaser, but the brushes were faily [censored]
and they broke. I've broken the three originals and two of the spares.
Only one brush left, which renders the device 'knackered'

My question is, what is the simplest most effective way to clean one's
chain? Kerosene, citrus based degreaser, other? And is one of the
aforementioned machines (but obviously one of superior make. That one cost
around $25) the way to go, or just submerge the chain in a bowl of
cleaner?

Help me...

Just use the said chain cleaning device with kero instead of that nasty
degreaser rubbish, after removing the rear wheel to clean the cluster first.
Use small batches of Kero in the machine until the kero stays clean. Then
spray chain with water. Then dry with cloth. Then add your favourite
lubricant. Run chain around a bit ot work the lube inside. Wipe chain with
clean cloth. Tip used Kero into a bottle to reuse next time as all the crud
will settle in the bottom and the kero will be pretty clean again for next
time. The ride.
Way quicker, cleaner and easier to do than removing the chain and putting in
a coke bottle with Kero and trying to fish it out again with a spoke. I
can't believe someones suggested that, because they obviously haven't tried
it!? Impossible to get the chain out through the neck of the bottle once the
chain has turned back on itself and you'll spend all day dicking about
trying to get the thing untangled from within the bottle, and then give up
and chop the bottle in half.
Oh, the cheap nasty chain machines don't last very long. Spend twice as
much and they last a LONG time. I have got a Park Tools chain machine after
wrecking several barberi brand ones, and have had it for 4 years so far, and
it maintains 5 bikes....

Gemm

In article <[email hidden]>,

Gemma_k said:

Just use the said chain cleaning device with kero instead of that nasty
degreaser rubbish, after removing the rear wheel to clean the cluster first.
Use small batches of Kero in the machine until the kero stays clean. Then
spray chain with water.

Why spray with water when kero evaporates well and is said to be a good
oil to leave on your chain?
--

Artoi said:

In article <[email hidden]>,

Gemma_k said:

Just use the said chain cleaning device with kero instead of that
nasty degreaser rubbish, after removing the rear wheel to clean the
cluster first. Use small batches of Kero in the machine until the
kero stays clean. Then spray chain with water.

Why spray with water when kero evaporates well and is said to be a
good oil to leave on your chain?

Mainly because Kero has absolutely zero lubricating properties and it
is a good idea to wash it, and the last of the contaminants it has
"loosened", off your chain.

--

Blue Heeler said:

Artoi said:

In article <[email hidden]>,

Gemma_k said:

Just use the said chain cleaning device with kero instead of that
nasty degreaser rubbish, after removing the rear wheel to clean the
cluster first. Use small batches of Kero in the machine until the
kero stays clean. Then spray chain with water.

Why spray with water when kero evaporates well and is said to be a
good oil to leave on your chain?

Mainly because Kero has absolutely zero lubricating properties and it
is a good idea to wash it, and the last of the contaminants it has
"loosened", off your chain.

I use Wurth HHS2000 lubricant but they have other products which may be
more suitable. This one starts as a penetrate and sets as a grease,
works for me.

http://www.wurthusa.com/project/en/leftnavi/catalog/product.php?path=09.0100.jpg

Rob said:

I use Wurth HHS2000 lubricant but they have other products which may
be more suitable. This one starts as a penetrate and sets as a
grease, works for me.

http://www.wurthusa.com/project/en/leftnavi/catalog/product.php?path=0
9.0100.jpg

Please note that I am not taking issue with you personally, I am sure
that Wurth is a perfectly wonderful and effective lubricant that does
it for you.

But.

The thing about chains and their feeding is that it is perfectly
possible to spend an amount equal to a minor princeling's ransom on
substances having a stratospheric cost and which are supplied in
containers so small that they might well be the "semen of unborn
unicorns."

And people queue up credit card in hand in order to gain some real or
imagined advantage.

Funny that, sound likes a lot of other things that surround bicycles.

Unless you use a totally "dry" lubricant (and I'm yet to be convinced
that any of them actually provide the lubrication needed in a chain)
any lubricant is going to pick up dirt and road grime. If you are doing
a daily commute you are going to be cleaning your chain pretty
regularly - if not weekly.

I use kero in a "cleaning machine" (I've tried orange oil and it just
doesn't lift the crud as well as kero), hose off with water, and when
dry I apply a liberal dose of good old "3-in-1" multipurpose oil.

The three litre bottle of kero lasts a couple of months (a bit of
camping stove and car cleaning thrown in) and bottles of "3-in-1" are
about $2.50 at the local discount store.

My chains last.

--

Blue Heeler said:

Rob said:

I use Wurth HHS2000 lubricant but they have other products which may
be more suitable. This one starts as a penetrate and sets as a
grease, works for me.

Quoted message said:

Please note that I am not taking issue with you personally, I am sure
that Wurth is a perfectly wonderful and effective lubricant that does
it for you.

But.

So you think Wurth is not wurth the money? :-)

Quoted message said:

I use kero in a "cleaning machine" (I've tried orange oil and it just
doesn't lift the crud as well as kero), hose off with water, and when
dry I apply a liberal dose of good old "3-in-1" multipurpose oil.

Try mixing your kero 50/50 with degreaser. Cleans better and washes off
easier. I then drop my chain in a bottle of diesel, leave it for a day, then
hang to drip-dry for a day. All products cheap.

Theo

Theo Bekkers said:

So you think Wurth is not wurth the money? :-)

Not at all, I'm sure the employ skilled industrial chemists and that
their lubricant does everything they say it does.

My point is that it offers little, if in fact any at all, efficacy when
put to the purpose of being used as a lubricant on a commuter bicycle
chain.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

I use kero in a "cleaning machine" (I've tried orange oil and it
just doesn't lift the crud as well as kero), hose off with water,
and when dry I apply a liberal dose of good old "3-in-1"
multipurpose oil.

Try mixing your kero 50/50 with degreaser. Cleans better and washes
off easier. I then drop my chain in a bottle of diesel, leave it for
a day, then hang to drip-dry for a day. All products cheap.

You know, kero penetrates a little better than diesel, smells less
repugnant (to me anyway) and is easier to wash off.

Just for me try putting your chain in kero for a day or so, then lube
(by drowning if that floats your boat) with a real lubricating oil
rather than a fuel with some lubricating properties.

You could buy a litre (or more) of light machine oil pretty cheaply
from an oil distributor, you could even add any "magic" ingredients you
desired yourself, eg. lob in a small bottle of slick 50 etc.

--

Theo Bekkers said:

Blue Heeler said:

Theo Bekkers wrote:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

So you think Wurth is not wurth the money? :-)

Quoted message said:

Not at all, I'm sure the employ skilled industrial chemists and that
their lubricant does everything they say it does.

<whoosh>
Dammit, I even put a smilie in for you.

Theo

Sigh....Where do I post the line back to? I presume I may retain the
hook and sinker?

--