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Cleaning Advice Needed

Started by Rocky · · Last activity · 54 posts · 920 views

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General fitness, health and nutrition
Published
2 November 2005
Last activity
10 November 2005
Original author
Rocky
Posts
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  1. sf said:
    OmManiPadmeOmelet said:

    In article <[email hidden]>,

    sf said:

    On Tue, 01 Nov 2005 21:57:51 -0600, OmManiPadmeOmelet wrote:

    > I try to move the stove out at least a couple of times per year to clean
    > the walls and floor beside and under it. That keeps it from building up
    > too badly.

    Oh, man... you're good. Come to my house!

    🙂

    Hee! :-)
    The buildup grosses me out... and I have a serious paranoia about fire
    hazards! Just ask my dad.

    I've even thrown away _all_ the socket expanders and replaced them with
    power strips! Those other things are just not allowed here!

    I think you're living with false assumptions unless you've also
    upgraded your interior wiring.

    LOL
    Just adding fuel to the fire


    I agree but only if the interior wiring is insufficient or not up to
    code. Our wiring was upgraded in the additions to the main what used to
    be a summer cottage so the kitchen is all new wiring. The sockets are
    split recepticles which means I can operate a toaster in the top plug
    and deep fryer in the bottom plug without a problem. The kitchen is
    rather small with very little wall space aside of the L. The long L
    houses the cabinets, sinks, dishwasher, fridge, & stove. Despite the
    lack of wall space there are two recepticles on each arm of the L and a
    recepticle on each of the other walls. Code here says there must be a
    recepticle every 8 feet. Whoever did the rewiring stuck to code 🙂 We
    have an electrician coming in to re-wire the old main house just to be
    on the safe side.

  2. sf said:
    OmManiPadmeOmelet said:

    In article <[email hidden]>,

    sf said:

    On Tue, 01 Nov 2005 21:57:51 -0600, OmManiPadmeOmelet wrote:

    > I try to move the stove out at least a couple of times per year to clean
    > the walls and floor beside and under it. That keeps it from building up
    > too badly.

    Oh, man... you're good. Come to my house!

    🙂

    Hee! :-)
    The buildup grosses me out... and I have a serious paranoia about fire
    hazards! Just ask my dad.

    I've even thrown away _all_ the socket expanders and replaced them with
    power strips! Those other things are just not allowed here!

    I think you're living with false assumptions unless you've also
    upgraded your interior wiring.

    LOL
    Just adding fuel to the fire


    I agree but only if the interior wiring is insufficient or not up to
    code. Our wiring was upgraded in the additions to the main what used to
    be a summer cottage so the kitchen is all new wiring. The sockets are
    split recepticles which means I can operate a toaster in the top plug
    and deep fryer in the bottom plug without a problem. The kitchen is
    rather small with very little wall space aside of the L. The long L
    houses the cabinets, sinks, dishwasher, fridge, & stove. Despite the
    lack of wall space there are two recepticles on each arm of the L and a
    recepticle on each of the other walls. Code here says there must be a
    recepticle every 8 feet. Whoever did the rewiring stuck to code 🙂 We
    have an electrician coming in to re-wire the old main house just to be
    on the safe side.

  3. In article <[email hidden]>,

    sf said:
    OmManiPadmeOmelet said:

    In article <[email hidden]>,

    sf said:

    On Tue, 01 Nov 2005 21:57:51 -0600, OmManiPadmeOmelet wrote:

    > I try to move the stove out at least a couple of times per year to
    > clean
    > the walls and floor beside and under it. That keeps it from building
    > up
    > too badly.

    Oh, man... you're good. Come to my house!

    🙂

    Hee! :-)
    The buildup grosses me out... and I have a serious paranoia about fire
    hazards! Just ask my dad.

    I've even thrown away _all_ the socket expanders and replaced them with
    power strips! Those other things are just not allowed here!


    I think you're living with false assumptions unless you've also
    upgraded your interior wiring.

    LOL
    Just adding fuel to the fire

    I'm just going by the fire safety chief at work and recommendations from
    the fire dept. All say that socket expanders are NOT SAFE. Power strips
    have an internal breaker.

    Yes, I may be paranoid, but statistics can be very, very frightening and
    house fires are very unforgiving. I have too many pets. No way in hell I
    could gather up all the cats and my pet bird and make it out in time. :-(
    --
    Om.

    "My mother never saw the irony in calling me a son-of-a-[censored]." -Jack Nicholson

  4. In article <[email hidden]>,

    sf said:
    OmManiPadmeOmelet said:

    In article <[email hidden]>,

    sf said:

    On Tue, 01 Nov 2005 21:57:51 -0600, OmManiPadmeOmelet wrote:

    > I try to move the stove out at least a couple of times per year to
    > clean
    > the walls and floor beside and under it. That keeps it from building
    > up
    > too badly.

    Oh, man... you're good. Come to my house!

    🙂

    Hee! :-)
    The buildup grosses me out... and I have a serious paranoia about fire
    hazards! Just ask my dad.

    I've even thrown away _all_ the socket expanders and replaced them with
    power strips! Those other things are just not allowed here!


    I think you're living with false assumptions unless you've also
    upgraded your interior wiring.

    LOL
    Just adding fuel to the fire

    I'm just going by the fire safety chief at work and recommendations from
    the fire dept. All say that socket expanders are NOT SAFE. Power strips
    have an internal breaker.

    Yes, I may be paranoid, but statistics can be very, very frightening and
    house fires are very unforgiving. I have too many pets. No way in hell I
    could gather up all the cats and my pet bird and make it out in time. :-(
    --
    Om.

    "My mother never saw the irony in calling me a son-of-a-[censored]." -Jack Nicholson

  5. I've ordered my new kitchen and should get it in about 6 weeks. Lovely
    washed oak finish, lots of pot drawers, formica chop block finish for
    the
    sink island. REAL Chopping block counter for the other counter and
    quartz
    for the baking peninsula. I can't wait!

    MoM

    PS. Had to post this online. My newserver is screwing up again and I
    don't know what's wrong.

  6. I've ordered my new kitchen and should get it in about 6 weeks. Lovely
    washed oak finish, lots of pot drawers, formica chop block finish for
    the
    sink island. REAL Chopping block counter for the other counter and
    quartz
    for the baking peninsula. I can't wait!

    MoM

    PS. Had to post this online. My newserver is screwing up again and I
    don't know what's wrong.

  7. On Wed, 02 Nov 2005 14:45:44 GMT, "Chris" <[email hidden]>

    Quoted message said:

    "Rocky" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    Hi All

    I need to clean up an area around a range that hasn't been cleaned in
    years. There's a nasty buildup of grease and dust and the grease is
    partially oxidized to boot.

    Is there anything that will really cut this grease? Industrial
    strength? It's OK if it takes the paint off - I need to repaint, too.

    When we moved into our house, it was clear that some areas of the kitchen
    hadn't been cleaned in years and there was a buildup of grease and dust on
    top of the fridge and on the side of the range between it and the pullout
    cabinet next to it. Floor, too.

    I had the same problem. Disgusting. I used razor blades for the
    first kitchen cleaning!

    Sue(tm)
    Lead me not into temptation... I can find it myself!

  8. Kat said:

    "~patches~" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:
    Kat said:

    A hand held steemer. I have one and it works wonders.
    Our house used to be a rental, no one cleaned behind the stove in 10 yrs
    or more ... worked like a charm.

    I'll second the hand held steamer! I have one and just love it. It will
    clean just about any mess you can imagine. I have the Bissel Steam Mop
    for floors as well. Both steamers are excellent, easy to use, and help
    eliminate toxic chemical cleaners from your home..

    I'm thinking about the Bissel, but can you use it on wood floors? I think
    that the steem would damage the wood, but maybe not if it is quick to dry?
    We ripped up all of our carpet and found amazing wood floors under, but w/ 2
    dogs and 2 kids, wood floors can be a lot of work.


    I'm hoping you can use it on wood floors. We are planning on removing
    the carpet in our great room and replacing it with either wood or tile.
    If we choose wood we will have a urethane finish on it so from
    previous experience the steam shouldn't bother it. I used to wash the
    urethane finished wood floors in a previous house with water & murphy's
    oil soap. The Bissell steamer works wonders on vinyl floor though!

  9. Kat said:

    A hand held steemer. I have one and it works wonders.
    Our house used to be a rental, no one cleaned behind the stove in 10 yrs or
    more ... worked like a charm.

    What's there to clean behind the stove? The only things I've ever
    found are utensils that drop behind it (fortunately that won't happen
    with my new stove, Darth) and some plaster dust from a previous
    owner's work. Otherwise it seems pretty dry and clean.

    I don't plan on moving my stove to clean behind it unless necessary
    for renovations etc.

    Sue(tm)
    Lead me not into temptation... I can find it myself!

  10. Curly Sue <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:
    Kat said:

    A hand held steemer. I have one and it works wonders.
    Our house used to be a rental, no one cleaned behind the
    stove in 10 yrs or more ... worked like a charm.


    What's there to clean behind the stove? The only things I've
    ever found are utensils that drop behind it [..] and some plaster
    dust from a previous owner's work. Otherwise it seems
    pretty dry and clean.

    When we first moved in to Castle Ranger, we went through and cleaned the
    entire house starting in the kitchen. The combo stove/oven was the first
    item we deemed a necessary removal-replacement. The people that owned
    the home prior were not kind to that appliance, let alone worried about
    cleanliness. There was an accumulation of grease, sauces and other
    less-identifiable goops all over the walls and flooring. We rented a
    steamcleaner and bought stock in Viva and TSP. It took most of the day
    cleaning that particular area to see the floor and walls again.

    The Ranger

  11. <[email hidden]> wrote

    Quoted message said:

    I've ordered my new kitchen and should get it in about 6 weeks. Lovely
    washed oak finish, lots of pot drawers, formica chop block finish for
    the
    sink island. REAL Chopping block counter for the other counter and
    quartz
    for the baking peninsula. I can't wait!

    That sounds great! Put a lot of thought into it, of course,
    it's going to be perfect. Take before and after pictures?
    I'd love to see them.

    nancy

  12. Kat said:

    "~patches~" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:
    Kat said:

    A hand held steemer. I have one and it works wonders.
    Our house used to be a rental, no one cleaned behind the stove in 10 yrs
    or more ... worked like a charm.

    I'll second the hand held steamer! I have one and just love it. It will
    clean just about any mess you can imagine. I have the Bissel Steam Mop
    for floors as well. Both steamers are excellent, easy to use, and help
    eliminate toxic chemical cleaners from your home..

    I'm thinking about the Bissel, but can you use it on wood floors? I think
    that the steem would damage the wood, but maybe not if it is quick to dry?

    Steam will destroy real wood floors, in fact real wood floors should
    never be wet mopped... NEVER use any water whatsoever. To clean a
    hardwood floor vacuum and dust mop, then use one of the hardwood floor
    maintenance systems, Bonkemi has a good one, I use it all the time,
    it's effortless, takes ten minutes an average sized room, and my floors
    look better than new. No floor wax either, just use the maintenance
    system, that's all you need. Btw, the cheapest place to buy the
    Bonkemi maintenance products is from their website... I get the
    concentrates and mix em myself, even cheaper... why pay to ship all
    that water and extra containers.

    Quoted message said:

    We ripped up all of our carpet and found amazing wood floors under, but w/ 2
    dogs and 2 kids, wood floors can be a lot of work.

    No work whatsoever, not if you follow recommendations above and if
    initially they're properly finished for the kind of traffic they'll
    receive... best done by a skilled professional with professional
    equipment, not some putz with a rental sander. The guy who did my new
    kitchen floor is an expert (his father did all the other hardwood
    floors in this house but is now retired. I was amazed at all the
    tricks he employed, and all the unique tools and equipment... I learned
    (and was shocked to discover) that a professional sander/buffer costs
    some $50,000.00.... floats on an air cushion like a hovercraft, all
    computerized, with high precision laser depth/leveling controls, and
    sucks up virtually all the dust, but screams like a jet engine, gotta
    employ special ear protection. After witnessing how effortless and
    perfect my job turned out I would never consider doing it myself, no
    putz with a rental sander either. Hunt around until you find someone
    who really knows what they're doing, check credentials and refernces.
    A first class finishing job should cost about $3.50 a square foot, and
    that includes repairs, like filling in splits, nail holes frm tackless
    carpeting, and drilled holes from abandoned phone and cable wire, and
    buffing out and filling in burns (cigarette burns are common, as are
    ember burns in front of fireplaces) ... a professional knows how to do
    repairs so you can never find those blemishes again.

    Remember, never wash a wood floor, definitely no steam.

    Of course if you're a slob no kind of flooring will last long... I
    would think if mud, sand, and dreck is constantly tracked in carpet
    will hold up the least... have you considered black top? hehe

    Sheldon

  13. In article <[email hidden]>, Rocky

    Quoted message said:

    Hi All

    I need to clean up an area around a range that hasn't been cleaned in
    years. There's a nasty buildup of grease and dust and the grease is
    partially oxidized to boot.

    Is there anything that will really cut this grease? Industrial
    strength? It's OK if it takes the paint off - I need to repaint, too.

    Thanks in advance.

    Rocky

    Thanks for all the replies!

    I'll be trying "Simple Green" first, then perhaps "TSP". The steam
    cleaner sounds promissing, too.

    I will be putting up new easy clean surfaces when I'm done!

    Thanks again,

    Rocky

  14. Use an over cleaner, Champion Sprayon 5177, used the stuff for over 20
    years.

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