Cleaning a Chain, what with?

Quoted post said:

Originally posted by starship
Zin says in his book, to clean a chain with Citrus based cleaner, one that has lubricate in it also.

Can some one recommend a brand that does this?
🙂

Pedro's. Awesome.

http://www.bayviewcycle.com/NewFiles/Acc_pages/Lubes.html

I've got Performance brand citrus cleaner, and it works fine with the chain-cleaner machine. I use it for special events when I want the chain to look shiny. Most of the time, I just wipe the chain down with a rag when it shows some grime.

My theory is that cleaning is mostly cosmetic anyway: the fresh lube flushes out any grime as the old lube flows out the sideplates.

I just drop the chain into some turpentine, and then wash it with warm soapy water. Once I've dried it with a cloth, I then put white lightning onto it, and with regular monthly oiling, it only needs to be degreased once or twice a year.

Mind you, I ride in Sydney, where it hasn't rained for ages.

I've found that by using Pro Link or DuMond lube, it pretty much stays clean. Just add more lube, wipe it down, and boom, you're done. I have over 1000 miles on my last one, and it's barely even showing any grime.

Quoted post said:

Originally posted by starship
Zin says in his book, to clean a chain with Citrus based cleaner, one that has lubricate in it also.

Can some one recommend a brand that does this?
🙂

I like a two step cleaning/lubrication regimen myself.

A 2 liter soda bottle works well as a container for the solvent and chain. Or an old Tupperware container.

Any petroleum based solvent like paint thinner will work as a solvent, just don't use gasoline too flammable.

Diesel fuel is cheap and relatively non-flammable.
But all those petroleum based products represent a disposal issue. Can't just dump it down the drain, bad for the environment.

What I really recommend is either undiluted "Simple Green" or "Castrol Super Clean". If you use the Castrol brand don't use it on aluminum parts, it will etch the metal.

Both are petroleum free products and water soluble. Can be dumped down the drain.

Even better is to get a cheap steel skillet (not aluminum) take your chain off the bike and put it in the skillet with undiluted Castrol Super clean, then heat the stuff up to boiling on the stove. The additional heat makes that stuff work very aggressively at removing the toughest grease and wax.

When it's clean, rinse, dry, reinstall, and lubricate with ProLink or Rock-n-Roll lube.

Just do it when the woman of the house isn't around. They generally don't appreciate commandeering pots and pans for cleaning greasy bicycle chains. What they don't know won't hurt 'em. 😄

Quoted post said:

Originally posted by Mr_Potatohead
I like a two step cleaning/lubrication regimen myself.

A 2 liter soda bottle works well as a container for the solvent and chain. Or an old Tupperware container.

Any petroleum based solvent like paint thinner will work as a solvent, just don't use gasoline too flammable.

Diesel fuel is cheap and relatively non-flammable.
But all those petroleum based products represent a disposal issue. Can't just dump it down the drain, bad for the environment.

What I really recommend is either undiluted "Simple Green" or "Castrol Super Clean". If you use the Castrol brand don't use it on aluminum parts, it will etch the metal.

Both are petroleum free products and water soluble. Can be dumped down the drain.

Even better is to get a cheap steel skillet (not aluminum) take your chain off the bike and put it in the skillet with undiluted Castrol Super clean, then heat the stuff up to boiling on the stove. The additional heat makes that stuff work very aggressively at removing the toughest grease and wax.

When it's clean, rinse, dry, reinstall, and lubricate with ProLink or Rock-n-Roll lube.

Just do it when the woman of the house isn't around. They generally don't appreciate commandeering pots and pans for cleaning greasy bicycle chains. What they don't know won't hurt 'em. 😄

Agree a water soluble product is better for the environment, but removing the chain is too much work and mess for me. Boiling the chain might remove "toughest grease and wax", but I don't use any of that on my chain to start with. Plus, my first rule of bike maintenance is to never remove any part that's not broken.

Cleaning a chain -- should really be a two step process.

Frequently (as soon as you see any dark grime build up): wipe the chain with a clean towel until it's surface looks clean. Also wipe or gently brush the chain rings and cassette (getting in between the gears slightly). A t-shirt or terry towel work great. Then, lubricate with whatever lubricant you're using, the chain only, 1 drop per link pin. Wipe off as much external lube as you can.

Infrequently (close to never if you're doing the above frequently and consistently): use the solvent cleaner approach and re-apply the lubricant. You can use the clip-on cleaner for this. And you can recycle the solvent/cleaner if you pour it into a 2-ltr bottle, let it sit, and pour off the clear stuff/ toss the settled grime.

I'd be surprised if Zinn is recommending #2 as a frequent means of cleaning your chain...or at all provided you're doing #1 consistently.

Finish Line EcoTech 2 works well, also. I spray it on the chain and cogs, use an old toothbrush to loosen any chunky grime and hose it off. Then I towel dry everything, apply a dry lube like white lightening or Pedros extra dry. Since the recessed parts and crevasses are still wet, I bring the bike inside to dry off completely. This approach may not work well with a steel chain or steel cogs, but with nickel plated or chrome parts rust should not be an issue.

Low odor paint thinner works well, its relatively cheap (cheaper than deodorized kerosene) and its recyclable. Use the bottle method above and pour the used fluid into another clear container. Polyethylene bottles with a screw top are available at container stores or lab supply houses.

Next time you need to clean, carefully decant the clean fluid for use. It will contain clean lubricant too so minimal relubing is necessary.

If you pour your chain cleaning fluids down the sink, you are also pouring chain lube with it, something to consider. Using my method, nothing goes down the sink and you even reuse a bit of the chain lube, cleaned by the decanting process.

I avoid Simple Green as it can corrode if left too long.

i found the best way to clean a chain is to go with the old pantyhose, ex professional cyclist Danny Int ven told me this, try it, it works fanatastic, you dont need any heavy degreasers, or harsh chemicals to keep your chain clean, all you need is your mums old pantyhose, and a dash of some good quality chain lube, and not only is the chain a sparkling silver, it lasts longer because you are not using the harsh products that after a while [censored] your chain

Danny In't Ven...great kermesse rider.

Quoted post said:

Originally posted by kharnasaurus
i found the best way to clean a chain is to go with the old pantyhose, ex professional cyclist Danny Int ven told me this, try it, it works fanatastic, you dont need any heavy degreasers, or harsh chemicals to keep your chain clean, all you need is your mums old pantyhose, and a dash of some good quality chain lube, and not only is the chain a sparkling silver, it lasts longer because you are not using the harsh products that after a while [censored] your chain

Brilliant. I'll give this a try!