Chris King Headset won't adjust properly

David Peake said:

I've got a King threadless headset on my Litespeed Classic with an Ouzo Pro
fork, but it won't adjust properly. That is to say, despite changing forks
and crown races, the headset won't tighten down evenly around the upper
bearing cap and the upper cup. There is a about a 0.5mm space difference
between the front and back of the headset, rather than an even look around
the entire upper part of the headset.

I reversed the bearing cap's direction (from 12o'clock to 6 o'clock looking
straight down at the top of the hs), and I've moved /changed spacers, but
still does the same thing.

Having said that, the headset feels fine.

I'm afraid that I might have to replace the headset, or worse, the frame.

Can anyone give some insight, or am I overreacting? Please check
http://forums.roadbikereview.com/showthread.php?t=64304 for a picture
(although it's pretty fuzzy.).

As usual, thank you.

I saw a similar look with a Chris King headset. After checking a lot of
things (including facing the frame) the cause turned out to be a
non-square face on the stem! The fix in that case was to face the stem.

David Peake said:

I've got a King threadless headset on my Litespeed Classic with an Ouzo Pro
fork, but it won't adjust properly. That is to say, despite changing forks
and crown races, the headset won't tighten down evenly around the upper
bearing cap and the upper cup. There is a about a 0.5mm space difference
between the front and back of the headset, rather than an even look around
the entire upper part of the headset.

So the cups will not set into the frame headtube evenly? Not pressed in
properly. Even if the headtube faces are not parallel, the cups should
NOT have gaps in it.

Quoted message said:

I reversed the bearing cap's direction (from 12o'clock to 6 o'clock looking
straight down at the top of the hs), and I've moved /changed spacers, but
still does the same thing.

Having said that, the headset feels fine.

I'm afraid that I might have to replace the headset, or worse, the frame.

Can anyone give some insight, or am I overreacting? Please check
http://forums.roadbikereview.com/showthread.php?t=64304 for a picture
(although it's pretty fuzzy.).

As usual, thank you.

"Qui si parla Campagnolo" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

So the cups will not set into the frame headtube evenly? Not pressed in
properly. Even if the headtube faces are not parallel, the cups should
NOT have gaps in it.

The cups appear to be pressed in evenly. If they were unevenly pressed in,
would the headset even adjust properly? Because even with this small gap
between the upper cup and the bearing cap, the headset adjusts fine.

The only idea that I have left is that the shim for the stem (1" steerer)
might be uneven.

Is there anything that I've missed? Thank you.

In article <uE_ng.3336$uo.2936@trnddc07>, David Peake

Quoted message said:

I've got a King threadless headset on my Litespeed Classic with an Ouzo Pro
fork, but it won't adjust properly. That is to say, despite changing forks
and crown races, the headset won't tighten down evenly around the upper
bearing cap and the upper cup. There is a about a 0.5mm space difference
between the front and back of the headset, rather than an even look around
the entire upper part of the headset.

I reversed the bearing cap's direction (from 12o'clock to 6 o'clock looking
straight down at the top of the hs), and I've moved /changed spacers, but
still does the same thing.

Having said that, the headset feels fine.

I'm afraid that I might have to replace the headset, or worse, the frame.

Can anyone give some insight, or am I overreacting? Please check
http://forums.roadbikereview.com/showthread.php?t=64304 for a picture
(although it's pretty fuzzy.).

As usual, thank you.

I suffered the same problem. Just like your setup, there was a visible
difference in the gap between the front and rear halves of the bearing
cap and the upper cup. Thinking it was a facing problem I had the LBS
face the head-tube AND the stem and reinstall the headset.

This did not eliminate the problem. In my case that leaves a slightly
bent fork steerer or, perhaps, a defective or deformed headset -- most
likely the bearing cap. The bearing cups are pressed in tightly so I'm
eliminating improper installation as a cause.

But if you've swapped out forks and the problem persists, I doubt a
bent steerer is the cause in your case. Have you tried marking then
rotating the spacers 180 degrees? Or, if you've access to the parts,
swapping out the top half or, at least, bearing cap of the CK headset?

Luke

"Luke" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

In article <uE_ng.3336$uo.2936@trnddc07>, David Peake
<[email hidden]> wrote:

Quoted message said:

I suffered the same problem. Just like your setup, there was a visible
difference in the gap between the front and rear halves of the bearing
cap and the upper cup. Thinking it was a facing problem I had the LBS
face the head-tube AND the stem and reinstall the headset.

This did not eliminate the problem. In my case that leaves a slightly
bent fork steerer or, perhaps, a defective or deformed headset -- most
likely the bearing cap. The bearing cups are pressed in tightly so I'm
eliminating improper installation as a cause.

But if you've swapped out forks and the problem persists, I doubt a
bent steerer is the cause in your case. Have you tried marking then
rotating the spacers 180 degrees? Or, if you've access to the parts,
swapping out the top half or, at least, bearing cap of the CK headset?

Luke

I'm waiting for a new bearing cap from CK, and when I install that I will
replace the steerer shim (its a 1" steerer) and double check the spacers.
The cups are installed correctly, from what I can see. I can't imagine that
a titanium frame would need to be faced, though.

To be continued....

David Peake said:

I can't imagine that
a titanium frame would need to be faced, though.

And you would assume that because .... (???).

Unless titanium has suddenly developed a new characteristic to make the
faces automatically align parallel to one another the frame needs to be
faced. Ti is not that magic.

- rick

"Rick" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

David Peake said:

I can't imagine that
a titanium frame would need to be faced, though.

And you would assume that because .... (???).

Unless titanium has suddenly developed a new characteristic to make the
faces automatically align parallel to one another the frame needs to be
faced. Ti is not that magic.

- rick

I thought that facing a frame dealt more with imperfections in the paint and
the finishing of the frame. With a titanium frame, I would have thought
that because of the polished finish, facing would not be necessary.

I guess that I am wrong again, eh?

David Peake said:

"Luke" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

In article <uE_ng.3336$uo.2936@trnddc07>, David Peake
<[email hidden]> wrote:

Quoted message said:

I suffered the same problem. Just like your setup, there was a visible
difference in the gap between the front and rear halves of the bearing
cap and the upper cup. Thinking it was a facing problem I had the LBS
face the head-tube AND the stem and reinstall the headset.

This did not eliminate the problem. In my case that leaves a slightly
bent fork steerer or, perhaps, a defective or deformed headset -- most
likely the bearing cap. The bearing cups are pressed in tightly so I'm
eliminating improper installation as a cause.

But if you've swapped out forks and the problem persists, I doubt a
bent steerer is the cause in your case. Have you tried marking then
rotating the spacers 180 degrees? Or, if you've access to the parts,
swapping out the top half or, at least, bearing cap of the CK headset?

Luke

I'm waiting for a new bearing cap from CK, and when I install that I will
replace the steerer shim (its a 1" steerer) and double check the spacers.
The cups are installed correctly, from what I can see. I can't imagine that
a titanium frame would need to be faced, though.

To be continued....

Titanium head tube is commonly cut _before_ welding. As delivered the
slight heat warp makes the ends not parallel. Machine head square and
check steerer to ensure it is straight and your headset will set up just
fine.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

David Peake said:

I thought that facing a frame dealt more with imperfections in the paint and
the finishing of the frame. With a titanium frame, I would have thought
that because of the polished finish, facing would not be necessary.

I guess that I am wrong again, eh?

Half-wrong.

One of the two reasons that you face a head tube or bottom bracket
shell is to remove the paint that can otherwise cause the headset or
bottom bracket to not seat properly.

The other reason you face a head tube or bottom bracket shell is to
ensure that the two faces are parallel to each other, and
perpendicular to the head tube/BB shell. The facing process actually
removes material (metal) from the "high spots" until they're the same
height as the "low spots".

Mark Hickey
Habanero Cycles
http://www.habcycles.com
Home of the $795 ti frame