A week or so ago it was the Campy Ergo shifter that got the overhaul. Today it was the Chris King headset (threadless) that needed it. Doing this overhaul was harder than it looked. I've never installed a headset nor have I ever taken one apart before. But since overhauling my Ergo shifter I was filled with confidence that this could be accomplished. The tools I used are as follows: One rubber mallet, one foot long screwdriver, a needle nosed pliers and a meat cleaver.
After extracting the fork from the headtube I proceeded to pound out the head set cups using the rubber mallet and screwdriver. Both cups came out after using considerable force. The ball bearings are located in each cup and are sealed by a bushing with a lock ring. It was a real bear getting the bushings out of the cups. I had to use the screwdriver and mallet to wedge them out. When the bushings came out some of the BBs spilled onto the floor. Also I got a nice little gash on the palm of my hand during this phase of the overhaul from using the screwdriver to pry the bushings loose. With the bushings out, I used a needle nose pliers to extract the lockring. Cool, now all the BBs come out and into the cleaning solution they go. All the parts get a thorough cleaning and plenty of grease. Putting the BBs back into the cup was easy, but putting the bushings back in flush inside the cups to its specified place was really hard. The bushings cannot go back in by using your hands only as it takes considerable force. I sure could have used some sort of mechanical press. But I don't have one. I got lucky when reassembling the bottom cup. At first I couldn't get the bushing in at all without some of the BBs falling out. What I eventually did was first put the BBs in then the rubber seal and then the locking. Finally I place the bushing in and then I placed the cup on the floor and stepped on it with my foot. I heard a crunching sound. The sound was the bushing squeezing past the BBs. Didn't lose any BBs and all the parts were in the right order. But I still had to get the bushing all the way in to its specified spot. This can only be accomplished by pounding since the bushing is recessed in about 2mm from the edge of the cup. I couldn't pound it in with my rubber mallet as the face of it is too big. Also the part of the cup that goes into the headtube is only an inch in diameter whereas the part that sticks out from both ends of the headtube are I think 1 1/2". What this means is when you go to whack it to push the bushing in further you have to hit it dead on or else you'll be sorry. Desperate for a tool to pound the bushing all the way in, I take the almost completed headset to the kitchen and take out the meat cleaver. It's of all metal construction. I put one of the headset cups on the cutting board, bushing side up, and slam down hard on the bushing using the meat cleaver's metal handle's butt end. Nailed it dead on. Did the same thing on the other cup. Complete success! Was really worried for a while. I was thinking, oh [censored], how long will I have to go without my favorite bike? Whip out another Ben Franklin and get another CK? Well.. It took me 2 1/2 hours to finish the job. From dismantling to reinstalling with final adjustment. Just like new. Chris King headsets are made to very "TIGHT" tolerances. In my opinion they are the best, but I don't think I want to go through this again.
Originally posted by Kenny Lee A week or so ago it was the Campy Ergo shifter that got the overhaul. Today it was the Chris King headset (threadless) that needed it. Doing this overhaul was harder than it looked. I've never installed a headset nor have I ever taken one apart before. But since overhauling my Ergo shifter I was filled with confidence that this could be accomplished. The tools I used are as follows: One rubber mallet, one foot long screwdriver, a needle nosed pliers and a meat cleaver.
After extracting the fork from the headtube I proceeded to pound out the head set cups using the rubber mallet and screwdriver. Both cups came out after using considerable force. The ball bearings are located in each cup and are sealed by a bushing with a lock ring. It was a real bear getting the bushings out of the cups. I had to use the screwdriver and mallet to wedge them out. When the bushings came out some of the BBs spilled onto the floor. Also I got a nice little gash on the palm of my hand during this phase of the overhaul from using the screwdriver to pry the bushings loose. With the bushings out, I used a needle nose pliers to extract the lockring. Cool, now all the BBs come out and into the cleaning solution they go. All the parts get a thorough cleaning and plenty of grease. Putting the BBs back into the cup was easy, but putting the bushings back in flush inside the cups to its specified place was really hard. The bushings cannot go back in by using your hands only as it takes considerable force. I sure could have used some sort of mechanical press. But I don't have one. I got lucky when reassembling the bottom cup. At first I couldn't get the bushing in at all without some of the BBs falling out. What I eventually did was first put the BBs in then the rubber seal and then the locking. Finally I place the bushing in and then I placed the cup on the floor and stepped on it with my foot. I heard a crunching sound. The sound was the bushing squeezing past the BBs. Didn't lose any BBs and all the parts were in the right order. But I still had to get the bushing all the way in to its specified spot. This can only be accomplished by pounding since the bushing is recessed in about 2mm from the edge of the cup. I couldn't pound it in with my rubber mallet as the face of it is too big. Also the part of the cup that goes into the headtube is only an inch in diameter whereas the part that sticks out from both ends of the headtube are I think 1 1/2". What this means is when you go to whack it to push the bushing in further you have to hit it dead on or else you'll be sorry. Desperate for a tool to pound the bushing all the way in, I take the almost completed headset to the kitchen and take out the meat cleaver. It's of all metal construction. I put one of the headset cups on the cutting board, bushing side up, and slam down hard on the bushing using the meat cleaver's metal handle's butt end. Nailed it dead on. Did the same thing on the other cup. Complete success! Was really worried for a while. I was thinking, oh ****, how long will I have to go without my favorite bike? Whip out another Ben Franklin and get another CK? Well.. It took me 2 1/2 hours to finish the job. From dismantling to reinstalling with final adjustment. Just like new. Chris King headsets are made to very "TIGHT" tolerances. In my opinion they are the best, but I don't think I want to go through this again.
Kenny Lee
I am impressed with your information. Did you follow the "tech" on Chris King's site at: http://www.chrisking.com/tech/tech_headsets.html In the section on Service they talk about correct tools, but they don't specify what those tools are. I found that Chris King has the tools and will tell you more when you call them.
Uhhh, sounds like you did a lot of damage to the headset, you could have overhauled the bearings while the HS was still in the headtube. I have 3 king HS and have not had to overhaul one of them yet, one is 5 years old and still smooth. "Kenny Lee" <[email hidden]> wrote in message "]news:[email hidden]...
Quoted message said:
A week or so ago it was the Campy Ergo shifter that got the overhaul. Today it was the Chris King headset (threadless) that needed it. Doing this overhaul was harder than it looked. I've never installed a headset nor have I ever taken one apart before. But since overhauling my Ergo shifter I was filled with confidence that this could be accomplished. The tools I used are as follows: One rubber mallet, one foot long screwdriver, a needle nosed pliers and a meat cleaver.
After extracting the fork from the headtube I proceeded to pound out the head set cups using the rubber mallet and screwdriver. Both cups came out after using considerable force. The ball bearings are located in each cup and are sealed by a bushing with a lock ring. It was a real bear getting the bushings out of the cups. I had to use the screwdriver and mallet to wedge them out. When the bushings came out some of the BBs spilled onto the floor. Also I got a nice little gash on the palm of my hand during this phase of the overhaul from using the screwdriver to pry the bushings loose. With the bushings out, I used a needle nose pliers to extract the lockring. Cool, now all the BBs come out and into the cleaning solution they go. All the parts get a thorough cleaning and plenty of grease. Putting the BBs back into the cup was easy, but putting the bushings back in flush inside the cups to its specified place was really hard. The bushings cannot go back in by using your hands only as it takes considerable force. I sure could have used some sort of mechanical press. But I don't have one. I got lucky when reassembling the bottom cup. At first I couldn't get the bushing in at all without some of the BBs falling out. What I eventually did was first put the BBs in then the rubber seal and then the locking. Finally I place the bushing in and then I placed the cup on the floor and stepped on it with my foot. I heard a crunching sound. The sound was the bushing squeezing past the BBs. Didn't lose any BBs and all the parts were in the right order. But I still had to get the bushing all the way in to its specified spot. This can only be accomplished by pounding since the bushing is recessed in about 2mm from the edge of the cup. I couldn't pound it in with my rubber mallet as the face of it is too big. Also the part of the cup that goes into the headtube is only an inch in diameter whereas the part that sticks out from both ends of the headtube are I think 1 1/2". What this means is when you go to whack it to push the bushing in further you have to hit it dead on or else you'll be sorry. Desperate for a tool to pound the bushing all the way in, I take the almost completed headset to the kitchen and take out the meat cleaver. It's of all metal construction. I put one of the headset cups on the cutting board, bushing side up, and slam down hard on the bushing using the meat cleaver's metal handle's butt end. Nailed it dead on. Did the same thing on the other cup. Complete success! Was really worried for a while. I was thinking, oh [censored], how long will I have to go without my favorite bike? Whip out another Ben Franklin and get another CK? Well.. It took me 2 1/2 hours to finish the job. From dismantling to reinstalling with final adjustment. Just like new. Chris King headsets are made to very "TIGHT" tolerances. In my opinion they are the best, but I don't think I want to go through this again.
Uhhh, sounds like you did a lot of damage to the headset, you could have overhauled the bearings while the HS was still in the headtube. I have 3 king HS and have not had to overhaul one of them yet, one is 5 years old and still smooth. "Kenny Lee" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
No, didn't damage it (came close though), but did a lot of unnecessary dismantling. I just finished reading the CK product review over at RBR. In the first review the persons says that it's really easy to overhaul. He says all you need to do is remove the lock ring. But hindsight is always 20/20. He says he got the lock ring out using a little knife. The next time I overhaul the CK headset will be with the headset still in the headtube.
Uhhh, sounds like you did a lot of damage to the headset, you could have overhauled the bearings while the HS was still in the headtube. I have 3 king HS and have not had to overhaul one of them yet, one is 5 years old and still smooth. "Kenny Lee" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
No, didn't damage it (came close though), but did a lot of unnecessary dismantling. I just finished reading the CK product review over at RBR. In the first review the persons says that it's really easy to overhaul. He says all you need to do is remove the lock ring. But hindsight is always 20/20. He says he got the lock ring out using a little knife. The next time I overhaul the CK headset will be with the headset still in the headtube.
Kenny Lee
Forgot to mention why I overhauled the headset in the first place. It was because I was getting creaking noises every time I slowed down hard for downhill turns or traffic lights. Tightening the headset would silence it a little, but the amount of tightening was getting a little excessive. When I got the fork out of the headtube the fork race had crud on it. When I finally got at the bearings I found that most of the lubricant had been washed away. Well as earlier stated, works like new now.
I am impressed with your information. Did you follow the "tech" on Chris King's site at: chrisking.comtech headsets.htmlOpen ↗ In the section on Service they talk about correct tools, but they don't specify what those tools are. I found that Chris King has the tools and will tell you more when you call them.
From CK's PDF:
"Our sealed bearings have removable snap rings holding the seals in place. Carefully remove snap ring and then seal to gain access to the bearings. Flush with solvent, blow dry, then lubricate with a waterproof grease and reassemble. Reuse seals and snap rings unless damaged."
Question is how do you get the snap ring (lock ring) off? I did it the hard way but now I know there's an easier way. I just have to discover it.
"Joe Yannie" <[email hidden]> wrote in message "]news:[email hidden]...
Quoted message said:
Uhhh, sounds like you did a lot of damage to the headset, you could have overhauled the bearings while the HS was still in the headtube. I have 3 king HS and have not had to overhaul one of them yet, one is 5 years old
and
Quoted message said:
still smooth.
I have one that's 12 years old with no maintenance. Smooth as silk.
Question is how do you get the snap ring (lock ring) off?
From the web site:
Remove snap ring and seal: Take a pointed instrument, such as a penknife, insert it at the split in the snap ring, and lift the pointed end out. Once the pointed end is free, the remainder of the ring can be removed easily. Lift out the inner seal. At this point the bearing will be exposed.
eric-<< Your techique is superior to any mechanic I have know. >><BR><BR>
Right, particularly the part about using a screw driver to pound the cup out....don worry about that great big gouge in the headtube...
Peter Chisholm Vecchio's Bicicletteria 1833 Pearl St. Boulder, CO, 80302 (303)440-3535 vecchios.comvecchios.comOpen ↗ "Ruote convenzionali costruite eccezionalmente bene"
Gee whiz Peter. Good thing before pounding the headset cups back in I swabbed a layer of grease in the head tube. Yep, no need to worry because there were no gouges. At least none I could see with the naked eye or feel with my finger.
"Kenny Lee" <[email hidden]> wrote in message "]news:[email hidden]...
Quoted message said:
Qui si parla Campagnolo said:
eric-<< Your techique is superior to any mechanic I have know. <BR><BR>
Right, particularly the part about using a screw driver to pound the cup out....don worry about that great big gouge in the headtube...
Peter Chisholm Vecchio's Bicicletteria 1833 Pearl St. Boulder, CO, 80302 (303)440-3535 vecchios.comvecchios.comOpen ↗ "Ruote convenzionali costruite eccezionalmente bene"
Gee whiz Peter. Good thing before pounding the headset cups back in I swabbed a layer of grease in the head tube. Yep, no need to worry because there were no gouges. At least none I could see with the naked eye or feel with my finger.
I'm more surprised that you didn't gouge the cups.
"Kenny Lee" <[email hidden]> wrote in message "]news:[email hidden]...
Quoted message said:
I'm more surprised that you didn't gouge the cups.
Greg
I'm surprised that you're surprised. The whole cup extraction procedure was really simple. All you do is hold the screwdriver at a very shallow angle in relation to the head tube. Place the flathead screwdriver head squarely on the bottom edge of the cup and then give it a healthy whack with the rubber mallet. The second whack occurs directly opposite the first one. The third one is at the 9 o'clock position. The next one is at the 3 o'clock position. After a few cycles of this the cup pops out. No gouges and my tool never slipped.
"Kenny Lee" <[email hidden]> wrote in message "]news:[email hidden]...
Quoted message said:
I'm more surprised that you didn't gouge the cups.
Greg
I'm surprised that you're surprised. The whole cup extraction procedure was really simple. All you do is hold the screwdriver at a very shallow angle in relation to the head tube. Place the flathead screwdriver head squarely on the bottom edge of the cup and then give it a healthy whack with the rubber mallet. The second whack occurs directly opposite the first one. The third one is at the 9 o'clock position. The next one is at the 3 o'clock position. After a few cycles of this the cup pops out. No gouges and my tool never slipped.
Never happened that way for me. The last one I removed from a fork I just sold and even with much care there was a small gouge in one of the cups. These cups were pressed very tightly in the headtube, I thought I'd never get them out.
